nta16

I've seen him be particularly ****y to others even new members. I certainly don't feel better learning he snipes at you (and others?). I thought he was my personal stalking troll and took exception to me as he may feel he overshared his past with me in the early days of me being a member and had regret at this, perhaps embarrassed I would bring up what was mentioned but I never have and wouldn't. I have seen him be all charm at times and give good information and advice that he clearly has in many matters but he too often reverts to the cowardly anonymous bully afforded by the internet. I'm totally bored with it but will not allow him to bully me even if I can't stop him bullying others. If he follows pattern he will not be back for a while (hopefully) so it can end for the time being (hopefully).

Your ****y outlook on me and others must also blur your vision as you seem incapable of fully reading my posts which you stalk out and it seems given your understanding it other matter that you wilfully misunderstand possibly couple with your arrogance and in this matter ignorance. These are not insults but facts from your posts here and in other threads where you rush over to snipe about my posts. As I've put several times before whatever your problems are I cannot help you with them so don't keep taking it out on me. And as I've put several times before I will no longer go out of my way to explain things to you or put up with - go and do your research and learn a bit more on this subject. I didn't ridicule you in another current thread when you were indirectly sniping at me for putting that only 0.5 mile of driving was require to charge a battery that was so flat the car needed a jump-starter to fire up the engine when no information was given about the battery age and condition only that the vehicle got just a few short journeys in 3 months. But you believe what you want, because you want to. There wasn't a 1.0v gain for 7 hours charging - but you believe what you want, because you want to.

@zer081 I was able to take that battery reading today. After about 16-17 hours of the car being parked and locked up I took a multimeter reading with bonnet open obviously but the rest of the car locked, from positive battery tag and negative tag on engine, to first decimal place, 12.8v. I then took another reading in same way after putting the headlights and blower on for 10 seconds very slight drop in hundredths but again taken at first decimal place 12.8v. The car is not a VW product, it does not have start/stop but plenty of other features for a 2016 car, I could see battery details as it also has a lot of (covered) gubbins on top of the battery obscuring a lot of the top of the battery including the positive battery terminal post. I hope this gives you a reasonable comparison to your situation.

For me those are gross exaggerations and probably not sufficient for number of speaker and location. Size does not always relate to quality too, or the number of speakers or driver cones, often less can be more. The car and its cabin restrict sound quality but it depends on how much you are bothered about sound quality and how much sound quality you can or do hear. For expense and pleasure the lower quality you are happy with the better but this can be overtaken by ego, envy and competitiveness and any particularly person's taste. For me the speakers you have are too big and your taste of interior features and fitments is different to mine but these are not a bad thing, as always each to their own.

15 miles isn't really a long run. Just trying to recharge by driving might take a long time and distance and not get the battery charged enough to retain much for long, much better in your case is to fully recharge the battery using an appropriate battery charger maintainer. You would be best to fully recharge the battery, look in the Owner's Manual for your car for how to recharge using a battery charger and also consult the instructions for the charger maintainer. You would be best to recharge it using an appropriate charger maintainer and one with a low output say 2, 3 or 4-amps charger maintainer. The recharging may take 24+ hours or longer depending on how low you have taken the battery. With a battery maintainer you could use the maintainer part to keep your battery topped up whilst it is parked up for long periods - or you use the alternative method mentioned in the Owner's Manual - or if you also do mostly short journeys. VWŠkoda Owner's Manual site. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models As you have now found letting the battery get too low, even if the lights headlights seem bright enough and the engine starts easily the battery state of charge could be too low for the computers and they could throw up all sorts of warnings and give issues. So occasional preventative charging when required, particularly after periods of very cold and very hot weather, or longer term use of a maintainer will help to prevent these sort of problems. Yes you can run the car with the warning lights on but there could be now or later also another or other issues than the low battery for these warning light to be on so you want them off really. The airbag warning light particularly you want off of course. Fully recharging the battery and then driving the car may get those lights off anyway (the airbag light I am curious about). After fully recharging the battery you could start the engine put the air-con on and headlights, then fully turn the steering wheel to both both sides and this will let the computer know for sure there's plenty of battery power to operate higher load electrical items. You can turn the air-con and headlights off ass required bfore on on your run. The warning lights could be reset by clearing any error codes as described above or by use of an appropriate scan tool for your make, model and year or (VIN). The scan tool program for your make, model and year or (VIN) needs to have that program fully up to date before it is used and the car battery and if appropriate scan tool battery otherwise spurious reports and use may happen. Some Briskoda members may be able to help you with a scan tool most for a beer token(s) at worse, some offer professional services so different renumerations. Have a look at the following list and map.- https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/262215-list-of-vcds-owners-previously-known-as-vag-com-vcp-owners/#comment-3091029 HTH.

It sounds like the battery is very low. You should be able to recharge it for much more useful life but it has been injured a bit and will anyway take a long time to fully recharge which is what it needs. Modern cars will start the engine even with the battery very low but the battery still needs recharging. Just trying to recharge by driving might take a long time and distance and not get the battery charged enough to retain much for long, much better in your case is to fully recharge the battery using an appropriate battery charger maintainer. Look in the Owner's Manual for your car for how to recharge using a battery charger and also consult the instructions for the charger maintainer. You would be best to recharge it using an appropriate charger maintainer and one with a low output rather, than higher output, particularly as the drain has been long and slow, say 2, 3 or 4-amps charger maintainer. As you use the car so little you may have have plenty of time for the long slow recharge to full which, if you want to, may be best done with the battery disconnected from the car particularly if the weather is colder than say below +10c then indoors at a higher temperature, better at +20c. If your charger maintainer has a "winter" setting these usually are for below +5c. If you want to disconnect the battery to speed things up a little again consult the Owner's Manual about how to disconnect and reconnect the battery and also look up what items might need resetting on the car. The recharging may take 24+ hours or longer depending on how low you have taken the battery. With a battery maintainer you could use the maintainer part to keep your battery topped up whilst it is parked up for long periods - or you use the alternative method mentioned in the Owner's Manual. If you read the Owner's Manual and refer to as it as you required you not only learn a lot about the car and how to use the car and all the facilities it has you also prepare yourself to avoid issues like you have now and can avoid some hassle and expense particular with visits to Dealerships, garages, mechanics and auto-electricians. VWŠkoda Owner's Manual site. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/apps/manuals/Models I am surprised a low battery warning has not appeared but I would guess the start/stop function is in active and I am also surprised that other unexpected warnings and issues have not shown up but they might with use of the car perhaps if the battery is not fully recharged. I hope all that helps but if you need more information do not hesitate to ask.

Hi, welcome. Some more info is required, which buttons some or all, is it just buttons or do you mean the wheel(s) instead or as well as. You might perhaps need a multimeter and perhaps VW, and your model and year (or VIN), appropriate scan tool to diagnosis the issue(s) and a wiring diagram for your car. Do you know if the steering wheel is factory original to the car. Others will be along with more idea on this than me. Good luck.

@zer081 FYI - say at about 1.00 pm I started charging that battery and after the last of three short journey's it showed 12.7v on the charger before starting the recharge. That reading would have been from surface charge of the last journey. A 4-amp "smart" charger maintainer connected to the positive tag on the battery and earth tag off the engine, battery still connected to car. Say about 7 hours later the charger showed "FUL" and immediately after disconnection the charger showed over 13v (I forget exact reading, how many tenths more) which again would be a a surface charge reading and would drop not too long later or if I had turned the headlights on to get rid of the surface charge, but it was raining and I wanted to get the car back down the road so I was rushing a bit. If I remember I'll take a reading again tomorrow for you, with my multimeter as they don't have an outside 13a power socket to use the charger for consistency but both show just about same figures. .

You might find someone here but you are probably more likely to find someone in the 'Fabia Projects' and 'Performance & Tuning Upgrades' forums, have a look and/or ask there. HTH. Fabia Projects - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/205-fabia-projects/ Performance & Tuning Upgrades - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/212-performance-tuning-upgrades/

For you not really, but solid box construction if you want. For the sake of car and boot space it would more like solid shelf fixed to car for full bracing with two boxes secured to it for smaller speakers (smaller than you have might be better) to perhaps face forward into the cabin, the boxes could be like the old angled slopped faced pod speakers housings, but not plastic if going 40w or 50w per channel, perhaps made by you or other.

No, not really. The Max Power lot, and others, would have a boot full of speakers for loudness and/or competitions where music wasn't used to judge but a er, forget the word, so say a tone for accurate measurements of different systems for comparison. There were also competitions between modified or sports car for loudest exhaust usually more informally, well the few I unintentionally saw, and heard, and these were street/road cars. Some probably so loud so they could be heard with some of their stereos. Some motorcyclists do this forgetting they have ear plugs and padded safety helmets on that the rest of us don't.

Other than you want too, which is fine, are there other reasons, you don't have to say but if it's a braking issue there might be other solutions and answers.

Your trolling here is just making you look silly and stupid (again). It seems you search out the words like neighbour and battery in my posts which is a form of stalking. You also try to bully. You cannot know or understand neighbours and people getting along well particularly me and my neighbours, they actually ask me to drive their cars and insist I borrow them if I need to and to charge the battery when required to prevent them paying a lot of money on battery replacement and other simple jobs on their cars and homes. You only toll, stalk and bully because you are on the internet, I'm not responsible for your past relationships or you being in France, please don't take it out on me because it has got very boring for me and others. Once again you have contributed nothing constructive or humorous to this thread.

Got to be hose, filter, pipe, clip or installation at fault not that it matters as long as it's sorted. I can't see very well but seems like some sort of metal sleeving perhaps, if so is that really necessary for fitment. When fitting to plastic (much plastic on new cars often where there used to be meatal instead) that has to be clipped carefully not too tight or loose, often clips can be nipped up after first or a few uses of the car or heat cycles so checking is a good idea and sometimes you have to check more than once. Anything with petrol I do always done a couple of checks. Yes nice to have a no or low cost fix though. 👍

Alasdair I agree about the insurance if that was part of the policy or added extra but, and I could well be wrong, I'm not sure in this case it might just be s/h fob (or generic new) and a bit of swapping, but I might be wrong. I think I could have done something with my wife's 2015 VWŠkoda but there was no way I was taking the risk as both cars are used alternately (6-month swap) but even as a spare key, or only key if other was lost/mislaid, the merest hint of an issue with it and the boss would be very unhappy and I would have to get the Dealership alternative immediately if not before.

It depends what tests they did and how (well) - ask to see the figures or readouts and if they say the battery is good ask them to explain your figures. They might see something you have missed. The fact the battery wouldn't fully charge, off the car too, doesn't suggest the battery is in best of health. I can't remember that the battery age was confirmed, if it is a factory battery then for some owners it would be dead or "dead" by now and VW say to change battery at 5 years (or might be 4 for yours and some VW 2019 owners only get to 3 years. If you bought the car from a Dealership 3 months ago and it is the factory fitted battery then if it wasn't over 5 years old then it is now and you've had problems since you bought the car. The Dealership will know if it's a factory fitted battery. Butt if it has been replaced it still doesn't seem to be good given your figures, at face value over the internet. Play on the fact that the car has already ben returned to them with issues and you don't want to be returning to them too often more about sales and warranty issues. If the battery is good they need to prove that to you and if there is an issue with the car or you or your use they need to discover that too. All testing has to be done correctly and with testing equipment that is tested (and up to date with programming if appropriate) but 12v standard batteries aren't rocket-science. Someone with a scan tool check to see if the battery has been reported to the car's computer as changed, error codes reports and do live data recording and tests. If you want you could seek out a Briskoda remember with a scan tool to do some if not all of this for possibly beer tokens at worse. I don't have a scan tool but with a simple multimeter and/or charger I could perhaps confirm what you've done or show you if required but I'm in Northampton. I now longer have access to my neighbour's battery tester (not that I blindly took what it gave) or his scan tool, or all his mechanical tools, he had the cheek to move away.

Well done on finding that. And thanks for reporting back. IF that hose clip is loose it looks like it might be an installation fault otherwise another new part faulty. I didn't realise the float would have a filter as I was thinking of the float as a simple measuring instrument for the fuel gauge. To save my typing finger.- I have not looked but I would imagine that I might also have put about if a new part has been fitted, particularly to an old car, that the part and installation become suspects to any subsequent issue(s). Again well done on finding that, and reporting back. Now go off and give the car a good run for its own good and to reward yourself for your efforts and troubles.

I'm just charging my neighbour's car 12v as I borrowed the car and the car gets very little use and then on short journeys only. The 4-amp "smart" charger maintainer showed 12.7v just after a short journey when I put the charger maintainer on to start charging. It was a new battery last year IIRC. If it gets to full (well "FUL" on this charger maintainer) I will let you know the reading it shows immediately after charging or what it reads when I have to stop this time. The charger gives about the same reading as my multimeter. The charger is connected to a tag that connects to the positive on the battery and an earth tag off the engine (though not a start/stop car). IF your plug-in is near enough or reasonably accurate and allowing for its plug-in location and what the VW computer systems might be up to I think those readings suggest there is something up somewhere. 12v car batteries can be duff but not very often at all, often just scapegoats for blame. But if there's a fault elsewhere it could drain and eventually damage or kill off the battery for reasonable reliable use. Then of course if you just replace the battery without solving the issue the same will happen. For both this and next battery it might take a while to show and get to point of battery replacement but reliability might go a lot sooner and this might get worse quicker with accumulated effect(s).

I think VW has done more lockout stuff or barriered (no idea of technical computer terms) programming to require more licensed machinery for various reasons some which they might proudly boast about and perhaps some they won't admit to. It's like when they went from metric fixings to Torx and others so the tools became more specialist to their Dealerships and less widespread to general mechanics and garages. Perhaps they envied what Tesla can get away with (so far).

That's good for annoying rattles and vibrations but for sound quality the speakers are possibly best in a fixed secured board with perhaps solid box enclosure. Panel fixing you might best get from panel fixed to car body (especially if your sound deadening and/or proofing extents that far as you body is already so dampened). .

Good suggestion to contact your Dealership and get a cost for this, I got full costings over the phone as this is not an uncommon things especially when dealing with s/h cars. Plus I have seen on Briskoda a member put he had a good reputable place do the work and it went wrong and needed to go to Dealership, which they paid for IIRC it lock out the other key too. The newer the car the more I'd suggest Dealership for comfort and come-back but I don't know how easy or not it is for anyone with an appropriate scan tool to do this for a 2021 Fabia, it might be very easy thing. I considered getting a clone (or s/h?) key programmed but decided against it. Timpsons branches are IIRC each individually owned so there could be a range of competence but some might be very experienced in security matters. James Timpson was a Minister of State and IIRC still helps with some Government stuff. ..

Sorry, I don't know what Timpson's can do. The replacement for remote key with key blade (not KESSY) that stopped working on my wife's 2015 MK3 Fabia was £143.40 for remote and £41.40 to program, this was in Feb 2023. For your next car - don't have a spare key (remote) have two keys that you use alternatively (to whatever time frame suits you) that way you know where to find both keys, that the batteries work in both keys and you get even wear of batteries, keyblades and lock cylinders.

Well they look alright to me considering the use, you could give them a quick clean and check gaps or check gaps and give the car a bit of a blast run. I assume you have checked both plugs sets are correct to your model and correct gap required.. If any have screw-on end-caps you could check they are tight.

I other than putting in a temporary pressure and volume meter in-line before and after filter or instead of filter I don't know how you would check the mechanical fuel fitted as the engine needs to be running so you can't just pull off the fuel hose to measure, which is why I thought of a suitable electric pump. I expect you also inspected and checked the rotor arm and cleaned that too. Not only condition and gapping of spark plugs but also the colour of them though that is not too exact with the fuels now particularly if it is an unusual colour but if one or more is particularly wet, sooty or oily. Taking them out just after the engine has been running well then slows down and stalls may show the best, caution as well as the engine the plugs get hot. Also check they are the correct plugs for your needs. A magnifying glass may help to see any cracks. I presume the car is petrol only, what petrol do you get there, is it suitable to when the car was made. Check for air/vacuum leaks around the carb and its gaskets and elsewhere, and try that removing the oil filler cap when the engine is fully warmed and see what happens. If the fuel filler cap vents try removing it as the engine slows and see if that makes any difference. Often "fuelling issues" can actually be from the ignition system, so checking spark from coil, then from distributor cap to the end of each HT lead, all HT leads for fitting to coil, distributor cap, spark plugs end and plugs. I've had far too many issues with old cars and new car parts to remember but I had one car that had an unseen issue with the HT leads causing the spark to go wild inside the distributor cap that would very intermittently stall the engine for what seemed no reason. It cost me more to find out it was the HT leads than the cost of a good set of leads which I intended fitting next service. A spark plug cracked after very little time and use. I changed copper core plugs every two years cleaning in between, a mate just changed standard plugs every year as he got them at so little cost. faulty or shorted lived new rotor arms were/still common with the old British cars I had. Cheap ignition and electronic ignition parts we get here can be abysmal and faulty quickly or even at or from fitting. If you have fitted any new parts before the problem started you can suspect them or the fitting and never assume a part already fitted is the correct part or fitted correctly or that is fully functioning even if it works. generally the factory or more original parts tend to be better, but not always there have been improvements in the last 20 years particularly in engine and transmission oils. Good luck.

It's not good that any Fabia Mk3 has problems with electric windows even a 2014/5 shouldn't be old enough for such let alone 2018 on. ☹️