nta16

Generalisation only from me now. It depends on what you are used to, want and expect, your driving style, whether you value grip over wear. Don't be too strict about pricing, what you think of (or labelled) as a budget may not be cheap tyres and may out perform the better known brands (that often own "lesser" brands anyway). kumho tyres as a generalisation can be good to very good but I've no idea about Estca model and then there might be more than one tyre in the Estca range and the size you want/need. Also don't get too hooked up on tyre labelling ratings treat them as a very general guide, lower rated tyres can be better than higher rated tyres in real world use. If you want Michelin Pilot Sport then unless someone can give you a poor report about them on their Fabia Mk3 and they have the same wants and needs as you and drive same as you in similar situations then go for them. If you can get them at better price then even better. Unless your car has been changed/modified/upgraded in some way(s) or you like a lot of spirited driving, I'm not sure the Fabia Mk3 chassis is worth too much in performance tyres but always better to have more margins in the tyres fitted as tyres are an important part and component to the brakes, steering and suspension.

Thanks for reporting back. But it does not sound right to me. I initially thought you meant brake fluid had got somewhere electrical. The bleed nipples are usually on the brake callipers and brake slave wheel cylinders at the wheels and if not shut off you usually/often feel the effect on the brake pedal. And it sounds like from D.FYLAKTOS's post that you have a warning light for low brake fluid in the reservoir (perhaps that lit up too late). Good that it is sorted though, but strange connection that should not be.

To me the problem sounds like whoever done the work to replace the window regulator hasn't put things back properly and that needs checking and putting right or reinstallation done properly. If you paid this person and you think you can trust them to do the job properly on second attempt then go back to them.

Base oil + additive package = oil in can/bottle/container. And it's at a very low price compared to the ordinary Castrol oil that was originally recommended by VWŠkoda and used at Dealership in the UK for my wife's 2015 Fabia at £11.95 one litre (full price).

Uhm, I don't know either and as with Chinese stuff often they might be fine, or good for a reasonable time, or soon intermittent of faulty or even no good from installation or soon after or before. It's often just a numbers game. Many used to keep the original dissy or parts in the boot just in case, carrying any parts seemed crazy to me, I preferred to fit parts that worked (not that they always did). Just looking at the dissy vacuum makes my think Chinese manufacture but to be fair the rest does look reasonable in the image. You could be fine with these parts and get plenty of use out of them but if you had an electric ignition issues those times items would be my first suspects (check all else as required of course). I'm not emotional about any car, the most expensive car in the world is just lumps of metal and other materials, but I do lie to see old cars being used as there is little point to them otherwise to me. I don't know if you see the photo from 1986/7 in my post 'signature' and my first Škoda in 1985 was a two-month old 120LS 4-speed. Good luck with all.

Depends on codes of course but have you tried disconnecting the battery, turn headlights on with battery disconnected and bridge or touch the negative and positive battery leads' post terminal clamps for a count of ten, or more, turn headlights off, then reconnect battery. Whilst the battery is off the car I'd take the opportunity to fully recharge the battery, as low and slow as possible, always good to have full battery charge when sorting things or just after. With the battery reconnected, start the engine, turn headlights and air-con on, (assuming eclectic steering turn the steering full lock both ways) and go for a drive, you can turn headlights and air-con off as soon ass you want. HTH.

You might be better looking and/or asking in the Superb Mk2 forum. you need to diagnosis the problem to find the cause rather than looking at changing any particular part (though it could end up with that). Depends what (and if) part needs replacing but I don't think generally it'll need 'coding'' as such, particularly if you don't have a warning light/image about it, but I could well be wrong. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/136-skoda-superb-mk2-2008-2015/ HTH.

Hi sorry I don't know about the wiring but curious about the match of the module to distributor, with the module and distributor if either or both are from China then you may be fine or you might need to be a bit wary. I don't know about the module but if you have a link or good image of the distributor I might be able to see if it's the same or similar to the ones that flooded the "classic" (over-valued and over-priced) old car parts market in the UK. If they are genuine (VW)Škoda parts and not aftermarket that's a different matter. Well done on keeping such a car going, bit surprised you didn't go for mpi, no doubt lots of reasons not to.

Hi, welcome. There are a lot of this things that can be or feel like a misfire. You really need to have a scan tool report and perhaps live data to start a diagnosis on these cars with complicated and intwined computer systems but very often the results can take you to the old basics of the ancient technology that an internal combustion engine is. If there is a suspected misfire caused by a coil pack then to check and confirm this isn't difficult, same for spark plug. There could be a coincidence of faulty coil and/or plug and other issue(s) causing the problem but just fitting parts until you hit on the cause isn't usually the most productive way of diagnosis and generally parts and labour costs make an escalating process like this disproportionately expensive. ECP in a 2019 might (or might not) relate to a throttle body issue, does your local garage specialise in VWs, even if not there might be trade information on this available on the databases they have available. If the car is a three-cylinder then having one out of three spark plugs play up will be noticeable, when were they last changed?. A service nowadays is basically just an engine oil and filter change and a look for more chargeable work which isn't even a service of the engine let alone a service for the whole car and the much more important components and systems on the car so forget how many miles or the time to the next service for this issue. Some Briskoda members offer to use their scan tools to at least give reports that will show errors codes that exist, perhaps clear them, perhaps get live data, start of diagnosis, most for beer tokens, a few are professionals so different renumeration. Have a look at the link at bottom of this post to a post in the link for the list and map of these Briskoda members to see if there might be someone suitable able to help you. If you want to you could add to your 'Author's stats' your car's engine and gearbox details as Colour Edition is more about trim level rather than mechanical. HTH. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/262215-list-of-vcds-owners-previously-known-as-vag-com-vcp-owners/#comment-3091029

Not all original posters return to post what the solution was, perhaps they still have the problem or just forget after it is sorted, there may still be reports in the thread(s) of what does and does not help resolve the particular issue to the subject of the thread and car. Cars of this age can have a lot of variation from factory original from past and current owners which sometimes are known and others not and not always mentioned in threads or perhaps revelled from photos or posts. The basics of course remain the same and best to do diagnostics and checks from the start of a clear path and not to assume but always check, and double check, tests to confirm and cross reference. Sod's Law often applies and the thing(s) that "can't be" the cause can be and things "already checked" or "don't need checking" need checking and rechecking and parts that "are good" and"fully working" turn out not to be. HTH. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/531162-felicia-13-engine-stalls https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/529879-skoda-felicia-13-carb-only-idles-well-when-choke-flap-is-closed-and-a-few-more-problems/ https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/529455-skoda-favorit-stalls-and-wont-start-after-running-for-couple-of-minutes-after-a-cold-start

As there is so much to know about you, the car, the history, what was done (I know you have given some details) and the other carb queries and issues my not be 100% directly related to your and as there are so many possible posts I will just find the threads for you to go through and take as much as you want or think you need. I will be back and post the hyperlinks in a post for you. Also what can often aid trying to sort stuff like this over the internet rather than in person with the car, good (portrait mot landscape as generally more information that way) photos of the carb and engine bay or a video if you want to. Other general information possibly related to the issue can also sometimes be seen.

Hi, welcome. There have been a couple of threads recently with lots of info and advice, take a look at those and relevant past threads. Then check everything again, have someone else check they might see what you've missed. Go through the order of set up and check all settings in order, start at start and move on in order of checking don't go out of order or skip. before moving on to next Have you tried removing the oil filler cap when the engine is running and fully warmed up and see what happens, same for petrol filler cap.

Don't worry the mic will pick up your voice, presumably you are parked up with engine off so less noise in the cabin.

See list and map of Briskoda members, some will do stuff for beer tokens a few others are professional so different renumeration, check the person has the facility, knowledge and experience to do what you need and that they are willing to do so. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/262215-list-of-vcds-owners-previously-known-as-vag-com-vcp-owners/#comment-3091029 HTH.

Communications errors so for those you need to check and diagnosis wires, connections, connectors and modules for power and communication signals, as in the link to the professional diagnostics chap's videos, scan tool, scope, multimeter and and load bulb as required. If B200500 is correct does it really effect a 2014 car, I've no idea but if it does, from a quick read, you might be back to ODIS or other. If it wasn't there before it might be something to do with the ODIS but I've no idea about the delay in presenting, computers and computer programming are a mystery to me other than all the errors and omissions, "glitches", patches and updates than solve one thing and create two more - and of course that computers are very dumb and need full, specific, correct instructions to operate at all.

To me the start of overweight mediums sized VWs, the Mk1 GTi remains the only VW, old or new, that I've ever fancied a drive of or owning. Until a couple of years ago my every day car for the previous 16 years was a car from 1973. 🙃

@leolito you may already know this but in case not, for quoting part of a post, you can highlight it, then you should see (I hope) a black box with ["Quote selection], click on the black box and you get the quoted section in your post box. E.G. - HTH.

Yes it's horses for courses. Gammyleg's Superb is a 1.6 TDI, all things are relative of course but 1.6 TDI in a big heavy (over heavy VW) doesn't strike me as a performance vehicle and I've not seen Gammyleg mention he's for spirited driving in it (but perhaps he is). If there wasn't the silly over wide (215) and big wheels (17") that fashion dictates things might be a little more even for the tyres all year round in middling weather conditions that I guess is usual for Kent. In the middle of the country here were I am you can easily drive around on summer tyres (that we used to just call tyres) all year round, obviously RWD BMWs and Mercs have more fun or can be a liability to be behind in laying snow depending on the driver. My 145/80 r13 summer tyres on my car were fine all year round and in laying snow. 😁

Your 'Author stats' show - Model: Skoda kodiaq, Year: 2017, is this correct or have you moved on to a 2021 registered car? Further complication and confusion can come from marketing use 'model year' instead of build year. All databases have errors and omissions (including those of manufacturers) and all information from any source (particularly internet) should be checked and cross-referenced as much as possible or reasonable. The places that show your car as 2019 (if it is not a 2019) may have the same databases or from same source(s) and have the same correct and incorrect information. Some car part suppliers can list incorrect parts even if they list your car correctly.

When what are now called summer tyres were just called tyres it was put that they lost there performance from 10c more recently I had seen this figure to be 7c. But I could well believe 10c, in a test though you'd want to know what poor means and in comparison to what. Are there tests to see at what temperature all-seasons lose their performance and in comparison to 'summer' tyres, I'm not against all-season tyres at all but I imagine less caution is often taken by drivers in warmer weather than cooler or cold weather. Of course whatever tyres in whatever weather the driver should drive within the conditions of the weather and how the tyres behave in those conditions.

Correction for typo - should have been - there wasn't a 0.1v gain for 7 hours charging.

This was only a long shot and might wrong. If you put up a photo of the steering wheel some may know if it is original to a 2015 Monte Carlo - not me but I could try looking in the brochure we have form my wife buying her car second hand, it might give such detail it might not. An appropriate scan tool could give a report or details which would/might help establish this or more importantly, with further checking and diagnosis, why the button aren't working. I don't drive my wife's Fabia often and don't use the buttons other than the wheel to check the oil temperature (a better check and more accurate than the biased to show 90c coolant gauge reading) then back to digital speed reading than my wife wants showing, so I'm not familiar with the buttons and the car isn't here to try to wake my limited brain power on this subject (or any other). HTH until someone else turns up here.

Try not to wait for warnings as that is being reactive to a situation that already exists better to be proactive and prevent any situations plus you didn't get a warning this time and had an issue (but it might be a different issue). But perhaps this is not a battery issue or only partially a battery issue, or sperate issues, if there is more than one, which I don't know but never rule out until the first issue is checked for, found and resolved. Anything on a car involving electrics, electronics or starting of engine and you want to be sure the battery is in good state of charge (and health) as this will help with diagnosis and the resolve(s) whereas if the battery is in lower state of charge (and health) then this can hinder diagnosis, create incorrect results and/or paths to follow. Or if the battery is too low and gets lowered even more by diagnosis and testing of items it could bring things to a full stop until the battery gets more charge. Given you put you only drove the car two short journeys in 3 months unless you disconnected the battery or had it on a battery maintainer or recharged it and without other information there is a good likelihood that the battery will be low in charge. It might be, or not, that it doesn't take too much to fully recharge the battery, with the battery fully recharged you have a good foundation to start from to just use of the car or for finding any faults. New modern cars have a lot more complex and intertwined computer systems (German marques particularly have had for a good number of years) more so than years 10 ago, and these run on 5v signals so already thin and if the 12v supply gets low they notice it. Plus there are generally more comfort features and driver "aids" and "assists" on the cars that use electric power that the car and driver can use more. Think of it like expenditure, if more has to be spent or is taken out then there needs to be more in the bank to do that or bigger and/or more frequent deposits put in. Some people are thriftier than others or have more activity. VWŠkoda Owner's Manuals used to put something like replace the battery after 5 years, which is good for them and others selling these high cost batteries but should or could be totally unnecessary. Then I believed they dropped it to 4 years with newer vehicles, some owners have changed at 3 years. Many battery replacements can be premature or very premature but it depends on what the owner/driver is prepared to do (which is very little in reality) or prepared to spend. For a one-off first time you could remove the battery from the car to fully charge it, see my previous post for details. The Ultimate Speed ULGD 5.0 C1 is common and will be fine to use, check your Owner's Manual and you will see VWŠkoda will approve the use of a 5-amp charger with the battery still fitted to the car for batteries 50 Ah and above. If you don't have the instructions for the charger they are widely available for direct free download or go to Lidl's website as they sell it in the UK at least. At 5-amp it will take many hours to fully recharge the battery if it is too low but you can do it in sessions, best the sessions follow each other as soon as possible to get to full as soon as possible. Then if the car is to sit unused for weeks you might be best to look into buying a solar trickle charger but they generally are only a maintainer really so the more charge that is in the battery at the start the more the solar charger can maintain. For decades I've looked after elderly neighbour's cars and the batteries in them as the cars stand basically unused or low or micro annual mileage, keeping on top of the batteries is very easy occasional clean hands tasks and the charger maintainer does the work whilst I do other stuff much better than farting about on cars, which is most things to me. Prevention is better than cure, as some discover after paying hundreds of pounds having a new battery installed on a car they hardly use. If the battery is used, abused and/or neglected too much and/or too often then it becomes harder and harder to retrieve it for more useful reliable use and life. Slowly owners and drivers are learning, or remembering, the importance of the car's 12v battery often because of issues or vehicle breakdown and rescue or the high cost of replacement, it has always been very important but a lot more so now. Even the Dealerships have caught on here apparently and offer an additional battery charging service for £40 but I doubt they give too much effort to this against installing a new battery when they can. And you know the very low cost of your charger maintainer (£15-£20 here). But prevention is better than cure. Once you have the battery fully or at a reasonable level of charge see how things go from there. Good luck.

My quick thoughts. 2021 Skoda Fabia Mk3 1.0 MPI (CHYE) What gearbox, manual / auto, number of gears? I don't know but others might, do you know if it has a dual mass flywheel or clutch at all. Pinning down where sounds originate can be very difficult even when or in the car and may sound like it's in the engine bay an might be but may not. Also the sound and feel may be from the same source or different sources. Have you had a good look and feel around in the engine bay to se if you can find any possibilities. Could the sound be from the underside of the car, possibly suspension relate (my wife's 2015 has noises from there and others have reported noises they can't pin down, some despite replacing a list of parts). Engine or gearbox mounts, noise from rebound. If you could put up a video of the noise, preferably with as little background noise as possible it might help give possibilities. Don't take offence but do check the noise isn't coming from something loose inside the car, there shouldn't be anything loose in the engine bay or underside but there might be. Following on from last sentence, have you had any work done with the car before you heard the noise? Both of these have been reported by owners of 1 litre, might be 1.0 TSI for jerky though but I forget. There are plenty of posts and threads on it in the forum(s) here. If the stiffness is on a manual gearbox on first and reverse that I have seen posted about. HTH.

Do you know if the steering wheel is factory original to the car. You might perhaps need a multimeter and perhaps VW appropriate scan tool with an up to date program of your model and year (or VIN) tool and a wiring diagram to help diagnosis the issue(s) car. Hopefully others will be along with more idea on this than me as I just can think or remember anything on this.