beasty54

Mines done it again, no connection for 2 days now, I'm so sick and tired of this turd of a car.

It's not impossible however, my cars never left anywhere other than on my drive, at work (charging with no other cars nearby) or in asda's car park on its own around the back so, it's extremely unlikely. It looks like I can replace it for next to nothing so it's all good, I've got no issues removing the bumper if necessary either.

Thank you both, it's good to see it is indeed a separate part.

I've recently noticed that the cover over the radar (I'm assuming that's what it is) on my car has a nasty crack in it. What's really annoyed me though is the fact that there's absolutely no impact marks on, or around the grill, it makes no sense as to how it's happened, has anyone else had this? I've been having a look at what I'd need to do to replace this and i cant find a definite answer on whether or not it's the whole grill that needs replacing or just that cover.

I'm actually thinking about connecting an adapter with a switch that I can have in the glove box rather than behind it, it'll be much easier than having to remove the fuses then.

I've got all the chrome on mine, it's so cheap and nasty, why would you want to add it?

I've hardwired mine to the 12v fuse, I need mine powered at all times so t can use parkijng mode. The USB socket is also on the wrong side for RHD cars so cabling looks a mess

My car was only a month old when this first happened but I wouldn't worry about taking fuses out, you replace fuses if they blow anyway so it's not like you're not supposed to access them. I've now had to do this about 4 times, neither Skoda or the dealer give a ****, they simply tell you there's not a problem, the servers were probably down blah blah blah! The connection drops so often that I'm even considering adding an extension so the fuses are in the glove box itself and they're easier to pull when needed.

I didn't do it myself but it's just the same as setting lane assist to "last setting" from what I understand. Lane assist can be changed using OBDeleven so I'm assuming the undertaking can too, I'm just not sure how.

Mine was done by East Yorkshire retrofit solutions, I was around to see some of it and it was quite a bit of work, I believe all the cables you mentioned had to be installed. I love doing this kind of stuff myself but on this occasion I'm glad I didn't attempt it, It had to be coded too so I wouldn't have been able to do that anyway.

Just an update, I've now had mine done and am very happy with the work.

I got told this time and time again but 5 weeks ago I was updated to 1806 and the device part number went from ending in B, to F. I've only had issues with the ACC once since then but I've now had the undertaking prevention disabled, that was the main problem.

I don't mean to sound rude but i'm not really sure what your point is? You know the range will drop off in the winter so you're simply telling us that you're now charging the car to 20% as soon as you plug it in ( This is what the Minimum charge level does) and then you're charging the rest during off peak? This obviously makes sense from a cost point of view, but if you were setting the "minimum charge level" to 0% then you were only charging your car for 4 hours on a 3 pin, this is why you're seeing a drop in range, because the battery isn't full. Also keep in mind that the "minimum charge level" only works if you have a planner set, if you don't, it does nothing.

The manual states that the 12v battery is charged at the same time as the main battery.

Mine does this every now and again, it's definitely not temperature related since it doesn't do it first thing in the morning. From what I've read, the ICE will start every now and again if it's never used, this makes perfect sense to me since I drive on battery 99% of the time.

I'm not blaming them for that in particular, I'm blaming them for the fact they messed up my original agreement, they messed up with the tax and they've constantly lied to me. They're also completely clues when it comes to their own products, especially the service team who should know a LOT more than they actually do.

I've had everything updated now to the latest version however, mine started doing it again last night. I've given up with Skoda and my local dealer, they're both absolutely useless.

Unfortunately yes, 30-40% power loss in the winter is perfectly normal if you're using the heaters.

Mine was showing 28 at start up this morning due to the cold weather, I actually only managed about 22 miles with the heater on so you really do need to learn to ignore the predicted range. What really matters is how far you can actually go, you're worrying about something that doesn't actually mean a great deal.

Seems this is still happening in my car despite having all the latest updates. I've just had to pull the fuses once again, does anyone have any updates on this from Skoda?

It depends which slider you're talking about? The only one that has any effect on range is the one you'll find in the car on the actual picture of a battery. You need to ignore what the car says with regards to range, there's too many factors that impact that. What you want to be doing is charging to 100%, setting that slider (within the infotainment system and on the picture of the battery) to zero so it uses the entire battery and then, putting the car in Eco and taking a drive to see how far you can really go on battery only. The numbers you're seeing aren't strange, mine had gone from 36 to 29 due to the change in temps outside, it's quite normal. If I drive mainly on 70mph roads, I'd expect the car to show me numbers closer to yours. In fact, the last few days I've been getting to work I've only had 3-4 miles left apparently, that would make it 24-25 miles in total.

What you're talking about there sounds like the minimum charge level when you've got the planner set. This has nothing to do with the available capacity and just charges the car to a minimum (up to 50%) before charging the rest in time for the set departure. This has absolutely nothing to do with the batteries capacity. What J Caff is talking about is the setting that determines how much of the battery will be used before the car switches to hybrid mode. Always set this to 0 if you want maximum EV range. It really doesn't sound like your range is far off if I'm honest. Mine currently only shows 29 miles and that's with the planner being used so the battery is a little warm when I leave. I also use eco mode and go out of my way to preserve range.

Try East Yorkshire retro fit solutions, I've red nothing but REALLY good things. Mine is booked in next month for the reversing camera. I believe just about all their work is exactly as it would have been if installed at the factory.

You can but it's not a permanent live, i hardwired mine in and tapped into the 12v socket

The amount of miles can't actually be "wrong" they're just an estimate based on a number of factors including your driving on recent trips and i'm guessing, the outside temperature. Mine often says 36 miles of range but the other morning, even with the scheduler set so the batteries had only just finished charging, it said 29 miles which i'm assuming was because it was way colder than normal. If your driving consists of mainly 70mph roads your car will show quite a low estimated range because you won't get near the stated figures. I'll get 42 miles out of mine at 30mph and on a mild day but, if i drive at a constant 70mph, i'd be impressed if i got 30 miles out of the battery, 22 miles on a cold day.