RoddersUK
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Everything posted by RoddersUK
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I've put poly bushes in
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Done them today, bought a ball joint splitting tool to make life easy, but it didn't fit! Doh. One came apart ok, the other was very annoying haha. All done, tracking done. All squeaks from going over bumps appear to have disappeared!
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Squeaking only when pedal pressed?
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It used to work?
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Have you looked on lllparts.co.uk
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Urgh.....lol Now to try do a DIY bodge!
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Hi all, Bought some new ones with poly bushes to fit, to get rid ofnthe noise. Just reading through the guide and it mentions pushing the gearbox away with a special tool, if you have the 0D9 DSG. I have a DQ250 (MK3 2017 vrs), but my build data doesn't say if it's the 0D9, but googling seems the DQ250 is the 0D9. Can anyone confirm that? Pain in the you know what if it is.....was going to change this weekend.
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How did Halfords check it, just put a multi meter on it? When car is running, check 14.5v to confirm alternator is working.
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I had to take the carriers off on my vrs to change the disc. I don't think new bolts cost much, certainly not going to skimp on them.
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The first 5ltr change I did, what returned out pretty much looked like the old stuff. The second lot looked more like the new. Yes I won't have it all out, but I certainly will have a good % of g12evo in. And it's so easy to do, I could do 5ltr a year when servicing the car, no bother.
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Yup, I did it that way. Also had the heating on max temp to open any valves on that pipework, but I think after, someone said it's a constant flow circuit anyway. It's also quite slow, the return flown isn't fast at all!
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I took off the return to tank and put that into a waste pot, then as the coolant went down, put the fresh g12evo in. My understanding is the old stuff needs the bag and the new stuff doesn't and you will be prone to corrosion if you don't change. I'm sure my way hasn't completely changed it, I did run 10ltrs through, did 5lts over 2 weekends, so it all mixed through. I don't have the tools etc... To do a full drain and refill, so this was in my mind, my next best choice.
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Good for reversing, get a view both sides. My only problem is, they don't move the same, so when you come back up, they are diff and you have to adjust the left one separately anyway.....
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Said I'd arrange something with him once the kids are at the grandparents. Bit of a trek and they wouldn't enjoy it at all.
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Just one snapshot of the engine, not a full load Dyno, ECU will learn. Posted on a Facebook group and Ben from Racing line saw it. Assured me everythings ok, but said I could go up there and FOC Dyno run my car, just so he can show it's all good.
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Quick replot, will be slightly inaccurate, but cross around 5250rpm. Sleep easy JR...... 😂
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They said they've check with Racingline as well and it's all as expected.
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Doesn anyone know what sort of max torque I should be pushing with the is20, dsg and stock internals? Last thing I'd like to know before contacting them
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I've just been looking at some other people's graphs and their torque is at similar rpm? Even the racingline graph is 2500 to 3000rpm for max torque
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230vrs If you make the y axis of the torque the same scale as bhp they cross at 5250rpm. I have no idea why the rpm starts at 2000rpm, perhaps that's why it's showing such a peak, maybe it messed up the plot..... Another question I shall be asking them.
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It's the big peak at the 3000rpm range, none of the Racingline curves look like that. Attached their OEM+ curve from their site. None of them have a peak like mine does, did my car move on the rollers? The stage 1 says it's around 440nm and the OEM+ for cars with GPF is 500nm. Stage 3 is 550nm, so how am I making 523nm?! And is it really safe? Going to speak to them today.
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I'm a little nervous about the 520nm torque, is it really safe to be pushing that much? It drops off fast too, guess the turbo runs out of puff..... Perhaps I'd feel happier with the lower torque map.
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