kodiaqsportline

We don't need symbols to tell us that. If you don't want the car to rev, take your foot off the accelerator. If you want to drive economically, drive with as light a right foot as you can. I mean seriously - why do we need to know if a car is running in 2cyl mode or not? Why do we need to know if the car is coasting? If you press down on the accelerator with any weight, none of those lights will come on. And last but not least, outside a laboratory, absolutely nobody can tell how much saving these devices achieve. With our Mr Sensible hats on, what we can say is that over a 30min journey, the savings obtained by running for 30secs in neutral or with 2 cylinders ( or both ) makes no difference. If it does make a difference, or some thinks it makes a difference, my question is why are they driving a Kodiaq?

Can't find it - what ramble? You changed both pollen and air filter at 1yr or 9400 miles? Whereabout in central Scotland do you live - next door to the Grangemouth cracking refinery? Or one of those new landfill sites at Polmont or the M74 next to Daldowie?

It's just something I picked up but never really had a look. I no longer have the Karoq but just checked my Kodiaq - bloody hell, no wonder it was free of charge There are two hex screws on top of the headlight assembly - I presume one is for full beam, one for dipped. Just turn it ! Of course that's the easy part, the hard part being how far do you turn it ( and what direction do you turn it ? ) without them becoming illegal? I'm sure if you look at YouTube there will be all sorts of tips on how to align them - trick is making sure your car is level. It may well have been true in the older days of self-level lights that you had to seek the help of a specialist that cost £££'s. Would only work if someone else had reset them from factory. With all the potholes and bumps on the road designed to slow you down ( some which are crazy aggresive ), it's easier than ever to knock the lights off factory setting. If that's what's happened with OP then even if there was a setting ( pointless on self-levelling lights ? ) the beams would still have to be manually set back to factory default.

You can adjust any headlight. If it's LED self-levelling I believe the adjustment sensors are on the suspension arms, if they're the older bulb type headlamps there should be two plastic adjust screws on top. I was told my car would have failed it's MOT due to headlights being too low - the MOT examiner adjusted them FOC for it to pass. ( the full MOT cost me £25 ) So when you say fork out a fortune ? It's a 5min job for those who're doing it all the time.

For the 2nd time in as many days, I noticed a weird / futuristic looking Hyundai. I didn't know what it was so just checked - it's the new Kona. The one I saw was a base model in white. Now I know looks are subjective, to my eyes the bodywork creases and exaggereated plastic wheel arches look hideous. But that's not my point, my point is the design. Can you see the problem? As we know, LED lights can be hugely expensive these days so why mount them on the four corners? If we're going to find bumps and scrapes on our cars the likelyhood is it'll be at one of the corners. And then some designer comes along and says, lets place the lights there. I mean WTF 😲 The above pics don't do it justice, you should see the real thing. Someone could make a fortune selling 3rd party replacement front and rear lights for the new Hyundai Kona. Wonder if this will be reflected in Kona insurance premiums?

Just a couple of questions 1: What difference to you detect in the way the car drives / performs / economy when the ECO symbol is on? 2: If the answer is nothing then why do you want it on more often ?

Probably nothing. It'll just be another another cheat device to make you think it's emitting less.

I don't recall the Eco light on my car ever illuminating when I lift off the accelerator ( 1.5tsi ). I thought it only illuminated when you're applying gentle power to the engine.

I watched a video of that bloke the other day - God knows why it appeared on my recommended to watch YouTube video listing. How can anyone be that financially stupid? He's in no position to give advice to others, the advice he does give is crap. He then speaks of negative equity, decided to 'bite the bullet' and wants change his car to a 911, but load the negative equity for the Tycan on to the 911 ! That's hardly biting the bullet ! And he's surprised why nobody will entertain it. His moans apply to ANY car, it has nothing to do with EV's. But I digress, that's not why I'm adding to this thread: Dacia Spring from £14999 I reckon this will be an absolute game changer for EVs. It's only really suited to town work but I expect it to fly off the shelves. In fact, you could make an argument people will buy it in addition to their main car just for that purpose. The price of this EV will never plummet, in fact I'd go as far to say that there will be a premium to be made for those who take earlier delivery. I'd put money on demand outstripping supply.

Perhaps I'm misunderstanding what you imply, but there's no either or, you can still use USB to connect on facelift models if you so want.

It's either me or others using wrong terminology or mis-understanding. https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/Download/Map-updates-mib3.pdf initially there was a problem with MIB3 systems where a major software update was required for the update functionality to work ( my car had to be returned the dealership for them to install the new software - I'm taking an educated guess all new cars will have this software already installed ) but once the system is running then... Maps are available on the Skoda portal. I believe they're updated twice yearly. I don't understand why people's maps are out-of-date. Mine isn't and my car is over 3yr old. 🤔 The 'online' part only applies to active services - i.e. up-to-the minute information. ( which is a contradictionin itself because up-to-date depends on the info available. When I first had my car the up-to-date info was reporting roadworks that went on for for about 4months 1mile from my home. I've been here 24years now and there's never been roadworks in that area That's just one reason why I didn't renew my Skoda connect subscription ).

Not sure that's correct. The maps will be updated for something like 10years, it's only the additional stuff like current traffic congestion and roadworks that requires a Skoda Connect licence. Most people would recommend using Waze or Google maps over any car manufacturers system. As Kenny R says, they're only as good as the information they're fed. In older cars it wasn't the map which was the trouble but the software running the infotainment that prevented OTA updates working properly. I'd have thought the new cars will already have that updated software tho.

At that mileage I doubt any engine will be significantly more economical than another. DSG? The engines you're looking at all come with the same maintenance free DSG gearbox so in theory shouldn't cost any more to maintain than a manual. But 1: the car will be more expensive to buy and 2: cross your fingers nothing goes wrong with the DSG as they're expensive to repair. IMO it'd be wise to have a DSG under warranty which of course is an additional cost. If anyone had costs near the top of their list of priorities, I'd recommend a 1.0 manual.

There's nothing specific other than sometime in 2020 it underwent a mild facelift. It's all pretty minor stuff with the usual pro's and cons. There's no major change tho. The pre-facelift SEL can be identified as it'll have a 3 spoke steering wheel with black thumb rollers for adjusting menus and volume etc. The post facelift will have a 2 spoke steering wheel with silver rollers for adjusting volume etc. Post facelift cars will have a MIB3 infortainment system which means over-the-air updates. Yes it's newer and will have wireless Android Auto / Carplay as opposed to wired on the earlier MIB2 systems. But I think everyone would agree MIB3 is more temperamental than the earlier MIB2 systems. The MIB3 only has USB-C type sockets whereas the pre-facelift only has USB-A sockets. The other minor change is that the pre-FL model will retain it's settings whereas the Post-FL will not. For example, if you set the driving mode to 'Individual' on a pre-FL car, each time you turn on the ignition, it will default to it's previous setting - i.e. it'll retain 'individual' mode. On the post-FL mode settings are always reset, that is if you select 'individual', the next time you start the car it'll default back to Normal and you'll have to reset the mode back to individual if that's what you want. I find that a pain-in-the-butt to be honest but it's hardly a deal breaker. It seems the newer cars get, the more annoying they become. All things being equal, I'd put up with those little pains and go for a facelift model myself.

It's impossible to gauge 'town' as everyone will encounter different conditions. Our Karoq was almost exlusively used for driving around town, a one-way trip of 4 miles. It was hardly ever done in heavy traffic, but the average speed would have been around 15mph. ( it wouldn't have taken me much longer on the bicycle ! ). I wasn't the main driver of that car but what I found was outside temp. had a big influence on the 1.5 ( ours was a DSG ). At this time of year, the mpg would be low 30's. During the height of summer it'd be around 40mpg. But as I say, that's just those short trips. On the odd occasion I drove the car which was always longer runs, I'd see low 40's in winter and over 50mpg in the height of summer. We changed the car last year as the main driver wanted something smaller. We bought a small Toyota hybrid. Economy has improved by around 10mpg over winter months but the overall running costs ( not including the cost to change ) is actually higher so in the long run, buying something that was more economical doesn't necessarily mean it's a cheaper car to run.

As above reply, I never hard wire, always use wireless for Android Auto. It throws a few wobblies now and again but that seems par for the course, no matter what car / phone you have. It's called technological progess by anyone under 40 years old, the over 40's call it a pain-in-the-ar5e. AA use? I can download music players that are better than the standard system. Spotify is the best if you're subscribed but if using the 'free' version I think Amazon Music is better. WhatsApp is great. It'll read out any new incoming messages and it's dead easy to send a reply ( obviously by voice when your driving ). I'm not that keen on Waze to be honest but I do use Google maps. I've read of some S models have issues but most Samsung phones from Android 10 onwards could connect wirelessly without issue. I think most other manufacturers required Android 11.

Apologies for butting in on this forum ( I've never had a Superb ) but I may be able to shed some light... There was a similar type of update on my Kodiaq MIB3 some months ago. What I noticed in the update notes was something about over-the-air updates being actioned without the need to stop driving. I'm guessing that's what the above update is refering to. When the system has updated, from now on future OTA updates will give you three options when a future update is available - Cancel, update later, update now. Chose the latter and you can continue driving whist the update takes place.

The truth about Chinese electric cars? Chinese cars almost uninsurable Or perhaps it's Chinese cars in general. Way back around 2010, someone in my family reversed in to the passenger door of a chinese MG-F thingy whatever it was called. It was only light damage, no more than a dent. Unless it had damaged the door mechanism, the car was perfectly drivable. The repair cost was almost £8000. Aparently the dealer couldn't repair it due to lack of parts, a door skin couldn't be sourced locally so it took many months to ship from China. So in the meantime the owner of the car ran around in a hired Golf GTi. Don't you just love the insurance industry !

I know we should never trust the press but the more you read the more weird this is sounding... It's being reported he drove in to a police car at 90mph but then it's also being reported the car brought itself to a halt when the battery emptied - it was only when the car was going slow that he hit the police car that finally brought it to a halt. And then I read this belter... "Nathan said he 'froze' after the terrifying incident finally ended. He revealed a similar incident happened to him on December 23. He said: "I was driving at 3am in the morning after I finished one of my previous jobs, it happened exactly the same, I had no control of the vehicle. At the time, it did speed up to about 120mph, so it was going pretty quick. It happened some months ago, at 3am in the morning? No mention of how he was able to stop back then, no mention if he reported the incident to his dealer. Is this just poor lazy reporting perhaps innacurate reporting? It all sounds very weird. I wonder what the actual truth is.

It must have been a brown trouser ride sitting at that speed effectively as a passenger. It'd be nice to hear a follow up to this story. I'm assuming people on the phone advised him to try selecting Neutral. Other than that, I'm not sure what I'd have done. Turned on the heating, aircon, seat heaters, stereo as loud as possible, open all the windows etc, perhaps even, against all instincts, plant my foot to the floor and accelerate... anything to try and use more electricity i.e. drain the battery as quick as possible,

I know jJLR have an unenviable reliability record but how scary is this? Story has appeared in many papers today, this is just one of them. manchestereveningnews

Thanks. It's the manual aircon version he'll need.

Can anyone advice regarding upgrading the headunit on a 2014 facelift basic 'S trim model? Researching this for a friend. I don't know the car other than it has the basic headunit installed which has a CD player. I think it's similar to this one advertised on ebay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185913311513 Is that a Swing? 1: Can anyone tell me if these come with BT installed on 2014 facelift models? And does it come with an aux input and/or USB ? 2: I'm looking at options to upgrade the headunit to a 3rd party double DIN. a: From the photos of the rear, the headunit looks to have two Fakra aerial connectors? Are both of them used - does the car have two aerials? ( used to be called diversity back in my day ) b: The std block connector should be simple enough to connect to the main wiring loom, but assuming the car has audio controls on steering wheel, is there any additional adapters required? c : I see several types of facia trim plates available for the facelift Yeti but not sure what the differences are. What would be the correct / best double-DIN facia adapter to use when installing an aftermarket unit into a 2014 facelift basic 'S' trim? I'm thinking that for not a lot of money, it should be simple to replace this basic headunit with a modern one with all the bells and whistles ( DAB, Android Auto etc ) Many thanks to anyone that can advise on all or any of the above.

OP has Sportline. Top range models don't offer that poverty colour for obvious reasons.