kodiaqsportline

Which Skoda models is that? If true then somebody needs to inform Skoda as their online schedule says it's first due 3yr after registration and 2yr thereafter.

1. That's easy. Just enter the registration in the DVLA MOT checker website, enter the reg and that'll tell you the date on which the car was 1st registered. Std warranty will expire 3yr from that date. In theory you could of course simply use the MySkoda app, but that's sh1te. 2: The VIN number has been entered wrong - hey ho, **** happens. But aren't they progressing this to Skoda UK for correction? In anycase, who needs a VIN number, the Skoda website gives the information under service and maintenance. Assuming your car is set to fixed intervals ( also known as time and distance or annual servicing ) The first year service is nothing other than a basic oil and filter change service is called an 'oil and inspection service' The second year service ( and every 2nd year from now on ) is called an 'oil and inspection service with pollen filter' The third year service ( and every 2nd year from now on ) is called an 'oil and inspection service with extended scope' The name of the 2nd year service kinda gives the game away as to what extras are required. As for brake fluid change 🤪 It's listed on the Skoda website under maintenance - 1st recommended change is year3 and every 2 years thereafter. Any main dealer I've dealt with has always been on the ball with this. Which dealer is saying they think brake fluid is due in year two ?

Haven't done the rear but suspect it'll be the same as the front. First you have to remove the two screws at the bottom underneath - they secure the arch to the body / bumper. The plastic arch is then held onto the metal wing and door with plastic studs - exactly same idea as removing a door card. A simple trim removal tool will do the job. The bumper? You'll need to look underneath the rear bumper but I think it's either plastic clips you pinch together or might be an L-shape clip you need to release. There should be about two or three of them. They'll only be simple plastic clips as it only securing plastic to plastic. There should be absolutley no force necessary to seperate those. However if the repair centre is having to spray paint the whole area, I'd have thought it'd be as quick for them to remove it as mask it up. hope that helps.

Hi. Those prices were for Henrys ( Glasgow ), West End ( Edinburgh, Stirling and Dunfermline ), Thomson and Potter ( Perth ). Just checked my supplying dealer Ingrams ( Ayr ) and they're the same. Whenever I've enquired about prices in the past via telephone, they've quoted the same as their internet prices for servicing. It's the additional 'maintenance' items where their prices vary from garage to garage - even within the same dealership group. My current car is under a service program, which as others have pointed out, was taken out when on offer last year. The all-in-1 wasn't that attractive to me but the 2yr service was. All depends on individual circumstances tho so I'm sure that won't suit everyone. I'd defo check your local VW and SEAT dealer prices tho ( forget Audi ). Price hikes may just be peculiar to your area.

I agree, that's expensive. I've just checked prices for my two nearest dealerships and the 4yr Oil, inspection and pollen filter is £263. Your dealer is charging £345 😲 Go to https://www.skoda.co.uk/owners/servicing-maintenance-fixed-price , select book service online and select that same dealer. What prices are they quoting online? In my experience, all dealers are usually around the same price for the main service, it's the additional work such as MOT prices, Brake fluid change, etc where prices vary. Can't comment on the current spark plug price ( not until October anyway ) but prices used to be £99. Yeh I can see them going up due to inflation etc but... A Bosch Spark plug for the 1.5tsi should cost between £15-£20 so thats £80 max. And then the labour to fit them... It's going to take no time ( or do it yourself? ) but lets say £50. So total cost £130 would seem about right if it used to be £99 a few years back. £263 + £130 - £393. If they were charging me over £400 I'd tell them to stuff it. Most dealers I've come across will price match. Have a word with a 3rd party or if you want main dealer, get a quote from both VW and SEAT. Even if your Skoda dealer won't price match a corner street garage or a fast-fit centre, I can't see them taking any pride in being more expensive than VW or SEAT. hope that helps

Can only answer one question... yes and no. The DQ200 is a sealed unit so doesn't require oil changes. Earlier DQ200's didn't have the greatest reputation for reliability tho. The DSG mechanics are far too complicated for me to understand but there are plenty of issues with the mechactronics so not sure if you're experiencing an early failure symptoms. Sorry, but that's as much as I can add. Only other thing I can say is if it is mechatronics, then whilst some garages quote silly figures to fix the problem, there are specialist who can service the mechatronics unit for 1/4 of the price.

The topic of rear brake corrosion is well known. I'm just wondering about the OP's 2yr brake warranty. I rightly or wrongly, was under the impression it was only 6mths or 2500 miles, whichever comes first. Never heard of a 2yr brake warranty but if it does exist then I find it hard to believe it'd include wear and tear.

Park Assist? If you have four side parking sensors, one next to each wheel arch, then you have Park Assist. The only cars I see it available today as an option are the current Kodiaq and Superb or as part of a package on the Enyaq that costs £4000 ! 😲

I'm glad that worked for you, but those of us that use the MIB3 software ( 2020 onwards ) will be only too well aware that every now and then it throws a 'wobbly' for which there is no explanation. Or if there is, the VW software engineers have yet to find it. Hope it stays stable for you.

People buy Canton because they specifically want better sound. If the width of the Enyaq boot is anything like the Kodiaq, I'd have sacrificed one of the side rearmost areas that goes in to the wing, and built / molded the sub enclosure there. If the occasion did arise you needed the space then the speaker would be removable. If the speaker was large enough they may get away without having to port it, but even if it was the same 6" speaker ( they could even fit a larger 9 x 6 to give more surface area ) then they could use the whole boot to move air. Unless I'm missing something very obvious, that's a really daft location for any speaker. I sympathise with the 'packs' . One of the reasons I bought Skodas was because you could tailor the car with the options you wanted, but everyone, including BMW, now adopt the 'pack' model of selling. It's like being forced to buy a tin of Quality Street when all you wanted was a caramel toffee.

Thanks for that - never knew. Would defo need an Enyaq member to comment on sound. I'm only going on theory here so may well be wide of the mark, but everything in there looks to be contained which is compounded by the fact they cover it with polysytene. 🤪 Think of it logically - bass is just air movement. That box looks to be 100% sealed - at least the plastic subs they use in other models has a hole for that air to escape. However any sound that is produced by your box is immediately going to be absorbed by the polystyrene cover. There may not be much space but in other cars, that air has somewhere to go underfloor. ( The lack of space will be the reason that when I turn up the sub over 6, then the sound gets muffled ). Just looking at your setup, I'd never guess that could produce any bass at all, however they may be using some kind of technical wizardry I don't know about. Sorry can't help any further.

The sub on most VW group models, including the upgraded system if you'd chosen it on the Ateca ( Beats? )is of similar design. The subs are circular, designed to sit in the spare wheel , hence save space. In older cars, the Canton sub was a small rectangular plastic box. I don't know the Enyaq so don't know which subwoofer design you have but here are my thoughts. Spare Wheel sub: Sound quality is not great, it's pretty crap IMO but you certainly notice it's impact on bass the higher it's set. I have mine set to +6 on the Kodiaq and anything above makes it too intrusive. Rectangular sub: I heard that on a mk3 Octavia and it's exactly as you describe. IMO it was a waste of space. Of course there are other factors that could explain that but I suspect Skoda use the same Canton Amp on the Enyaq as they do on every other car. ( Maybe it's reduced power to save battery ) I owned a 2016 Ateca and can't remember having any complaint given it was a bog standard system. I had plenty of room for complaint with the std Octavia sound system, but the Canton I specced in my Kodiaq ( 2020 - the newer Canton system ) Is so much of an improvement over both. It's not just the sub ( which as I say isn't up to much ), but the front speakers offer much more clarity at higher volumes. What type of sub is used in an Enyaq? Where is it located? I'm looking on the internet for pics but I can't see any of an Enyaq with subwoofer.

I had the unenviable task of setting up GDPR for our club some years ago. Trying to make sense of the guidlines was a bloody nighmare but once you get over their lingo, t's relatively straightforward. Your details would have been on the database of the original supplier. You could of course have asked for those details to be deleted, but that would almost certainly been refused. Obviously the garage or manufacturer would need your details to contact you in the event of say a recall or something similar. It's almost 100% certain there would have been words to that effect on the original contract you signed, typically under the 'data protection' section. Those new owners would have taken over all of the original business, so nothing has changed in that respect. By law you are entitled at anytime to see what personal data a company hold about you. But is that really the problem you have? Your problem sounds like you don't want them to contact you. Simples - just tell them you want your name removed from all future communication. That's something they have to do - it's law. The letter you received should have details on what to do to stop future marketing. One of the conditions of membership to our club is not only agreeing to your personal data being held whilst you're a member of our club, but that data will be held up to a period of 12mths after you've left the club. If anybody objects to that then their membership application is refused.

I don't have an iphone. I use Android Auto, haven't a clue about Carplay. But assuming Carplay operates in the same way, then is there any specific reason you've turned CarPlay off? I'd be tempted to access my phone via CarPlay and then USB should work independently. ( in theory that is 🤔 )

Look at this logically. Have the washers ever stuck when it's not freezing? When it was freezing and the were extended, how did they return to their normal position? Did they do this themselves when the temp went above freezing? Did the garage check the level of antifreeze in the washer fluid or just the washers?

I'm confused as hell The above clearly implies to me that your intention was contacting the other insurer rather than your own insurer. Obviously i was wrong. What is your plan?

Well it's a plan... 1: All insurers use a common database so it'll be on record. 2: When you next obtain a quote, are you going to declare you've been involved in an insurance claim or are you going to lie? 3. What happens if the 3rd party's insurer turns out to be the same underwriter as you? ( There are actually very few insurers, many trade under different names. There are even less underwriters! ) Although it could invalidate an insurance policy, if you keep quiet and have the 3rd party pay for the repair out of their own pocket, that could work. However telling the insurance industry you've been involved in an accident but not declaring that accident to your own insurer. 😲 You're playing with fire. It's a non-fault claim yet you could end up in a right mess if you go ahead with that plan. Why risk it?

👍 Absolutely. No messing around with something as straight forward as this. That's the problem tho with many who go thru rejection, you're immediately back to square one. Rejection isn't as common ( or as easy ) as some people believe, but typically a dealer will check the system or their contacts, and try to offer an alternative vehicle. Didn't they do that? Yeh, it's going to be a pain waiting. The majority of finance option agreements are against a particular vehicle rather than just a sum of money that can be easily transferred to another vehicle. Good luck with your hunt. Are you sticking with Skoda or have you had enough?

Jeez oh... Read that definition and then read your definition above. If you can't see the difference then it's time to pack it in. With respect to the Op and keeping this thread on topic, I'm not going to be drawn in to ping-pong match with an idiot. If you have an issue, PM me.

With even greater respect, that's YOUR definition, not the dictionary's definition.

Was this a franchised dealership? Would have thought they'd know better. If it was one of those large used car supermarkets or some Arthur Daley type garage, then it wouldn't surprise me. Some of the characters out there are shocking.

My advice remains as above. The valet issue is irrelevant. The sunroof could have been damaged between then and when you sold the car. However they had the opportunity to inspect your car prior to buying it. They agreed a price, they should have then checked the car to make sure there was no damaged BEFORE accepting it. The garage cannot under any circumstances renege on the contract you signed. As for returning the balance? Sorry I can't understand that. Surely the monies were settled when you bought the Skoda? If you're out of pocket, speak to citizens advice.

In a nutshell, yes, that's a straightforward rejection. My advice is If you are going to reject then tell them a.s.a.p and don't drive the car again.

I agree, it is pricey for what it is, but the reverse rubber side is shown in the previous photo on that Caffyns page.

If it helps any, a local body shop should be able to exactly colour match the part for around £40-£60 quid. If there are any other blemishes on the paintwork, it's cheaper to have that done now as the majority of the cost is paint they mixed up for your door mirror - they should be able to do other small touch ups for peanuts.