kodiaqsportline

but is better looking than poverty blue.

All paints exept the two 'exclusive' colours are no cost options on Sportline models. Well for Kodiaq and Karoq anyway, haven't looked at anything else. Those mpg figures mimick our old 1.5tsi dsg karoq too. Come up here to Central Scotland - most Karoq Sportlines I see are red. Very few Kodiaq Sportlines are red though. I saw my first 'orange' Sportsline the other day. It looked great as it passed by but not sure I could live with the brightness. For my tastes I think the red suits the Karoq Sportline best of all where as in the Kodiaq... to these eyes it's too bulky a car to look 'sporty'.

What were you even thinking about loading 600kg behind the rear axle?

1: With new car prices high and trade prices low, I doubt anyone will get a great deal on a car right now. 2: They haven't released any info on models, specs or pricing yet so ithat's an impossible question to answer. and even then, only you can answer it. 3: The new model will have the option of a plug-in hybrid but other than that, the engines will have changed very little. From what I've seen, apart from aesthetics, there's no great difference between the two cars. The newer car will be better in some areas and worse in others. VW do not have a good track record when it comes to introducing new infotainment systems so initial customers are going to be guinea-pigs. My advice to anyone would be to wait for at least a year after a new model has been released. When I wanted to change my Octavia for a Kodiaq, the mk4 had just arrived in the showroom. The salesman asked why not change from my mk3 estate to a mk4 estate. Every reason I gave has proven to be accurate. Paying top whack to drive an untested car? No thanks.

Depending on the offer, I'll use PCP to buy the car then settle the loan - for me it works out cheaper than just paying cash, but I'd never belittle anyone who takes out a PCP for the full period. We're all different. I don't know, nor am I interested in another person's financial situation. The £5100 deposit could be the equity in the car being traded in. It all depends on the current market and their previous PCP arrangement. They may not have a previous arrangement and they're funding the deposit with their current car? Who knows. Six months ago, Joe Average could have easily put down £5100 from part of the equity in the car. All I will say is that I try to keep an eye on the market as I'm always on the lookout for a deal, and at the present time I see no deals. Regardless of how you fund the car,with high new prices and low trade prices, I'm not sure there are any bargains to be had. However if anyone is on the lookout for an EV, there are some, what I think quite incredible deals on pre-reg cars. The reason they're incredible is because with certain EV's, supply outstrips demand - they can't shift them.

As long as you're not driving 'enthusiastically' then there's nothing wrong with a 1.0tsi Karoq. Didn't realise it was available in an Octavia estate. Guess it's only be available in basic trims? Every engine has problems if you go looking for them, but the 1.5tsi has no more issues than any other. I've had 1.4tsi and two 1.5tsi - like your experience with a 1.0tsi, I've not a single issue with any of them. None of my family and friends have had issues with those engines either. I wouldn't hesititate to buy another. TIP - next time you read someone saying there's a problem with a particular engine, ask them what engine should you buy. And then wait for others to tell you what's wrong with that one...

Don't know if it still works, but do people use CarWow or DriveTheDeal these days? I used DriveTheDeal for our latest car. Any seller being some distance away can have it's downside but you have to factor that against the savings. Due to several delays in delivery ( not the dealer's fault ) I cancelled that order without issue and received a full refund of my deposit. Had been looking around relatively locally for an alternative, didn't see anything, one dealer said they had a car I'd wanted on it's way, the price was £3000 more than DTD, I mentioned DTD price and said I'd just re-order and put up with the wait. Next thing I know, he price matched them !!! An extra £3000 of his already discounted price, just like that. I hate dealers., much prefer Carwow or DTD not just because of potential savings, but because there's no negotiating.

That's like saying the tyres came free as well... plus a free warranty... and a free engine.

No, it's on all orders made by 29th Feb. The car will be brand new, you will be the 1st registered owner. What it doesn't say and may be worth finding out, is is there a delivery date stipulated in the T&C's? They usually say something like odered by 29th March and delivered by 1st August or something, but I can't see that mentioned. Perhaps it's just on any order. As per above, if you're lucky you may find a dealer who 'needs' to sell a car to make their monthly sales target rather than a dealer who just 'wants' to sell a car. It once happened to me with our Ateca. I'm going to be pedantic again - you're not buying the car in Feb, you're only ordering it, which meets the T&C. The contribution is normally £2250 but if you order in Feb, Skoda will apply an extra £1000 bonus. Never say never, but from my experience, when Skoda have these 'special' offers, they don't tend to be replicated in the following months. They usually only offer them once or twice a year. drivethedeal is a good source for information on current offers. I've no idea how their prices compare to local dealers or CarWow these days. Hope that helps

Absolutely depends on address. Regarding excess - again depends on circumstances, but in general I find the price varies significantly even going up in £50 intervals until around £300 vol excess, but after that it makes sod all difference. For me, Aviva used to be guilty of the exact opposite. You could have an automatic £300 excess but by playing around you could reduce it to £100 and the premium would remain the same. I've just done my father's insurance which is worth a whole thread on it's own. He's in his 90's now which means those little differences we see when playing around with various options are exagerated when you reach that age. Changing the vol excess from say £250 to £300 made hundreds of pounds of a difference with some insurers. 'Shop till you drop' is the only solution - it's taken me two weeks before I'm confident I've the best deal I can get for him. My advice to anyone over 90 who's looking for a good deal on insurance - sell the car and use chauffeur driven limos - it'll be cheaper.

The original post was is it more risky to buy an EV? Well it certainly was from a price prospective ! I was speaking to someone today who just bought themselves a very low mileage 23plate Corsa-e for £13k - he said the list was £31k. He said it's only being used as a town runaround for the family, but if he needed anything bigger he'd have gone for the Mokka. That lists at £40k but he could have bought a '73 plate pre-reg for £20k. Aye right... I though he must have his figures wrong. So just had a look whilst I'm sitting down with my cuppa tonight and... https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202312044530998 😲 I'm not going to say it's the bargain of the century because I haven't a clue how much it still has to depreciate, but never before have I seen a pre-reg being sold for half it's list price. And then I see other new cars being advertised for around £40k and '23 plates with only a few thousand miles on them for £17k which probably means the trade price is somewhere in the region of £14k 😲 What on earth is going on here? Imagine having paid list or anywhere near list for a Vauxhall EV and then you discover that 😢

The retrofit should be possible but to give you some idea, the kit for a Golf in Germany is being advertised between 900 - 1000 Euro. And that's before fitting. These guys should be able to advise for UK owners https://eastyorkshireretrofits.co.uk/

You can leave it there but for those who're unfamiliar with the process and want to find out more... Under PCP, it's the finance company who own the car. If you withdraw / cancel the agreement, the finance company take the car back. If you Settle the agreement, you own the car. It's as simple as that. You can settle an agreement within 24hr if you so want. The general advice is to give it a few days for the process to be setup. When you take out PCP, VWFS will set up the agreement on their website. You can access it without having to speak to anyone - the process is now fully automatic. You register your name, you log in and you'll see a list of options, one of which is to settle the agreement. You request a settlement figure. VWFS will then give you a figure and you have 28days to settle ( from memory that is... it might be a full month, I can't remember the exact figure ) without further interest, otherwise the PCP agreement continues as normal. You say you've done this multiple times? Next time you do it, pay attention to the wording. Here's the link... Settlement request There is no such option to withdraw. You're using the wrong terminology. I 100% agree with @SurreyJohn, withdrawing implies you no longer wish to continue with the agrement whereas settlement implies fulfilling the agreement. Well, to be a bit more pedantic - it's really nothing to do with VWFS, it's the law, largely the Consumer Credit Act 1974. This allows you to Withdraw completely within 14 days, No, that's for people canceling a credit agreement. It's designed as a 'cooling off period'. There was a time when as soon as you put pen to paper, a credit company could hold a gun to your head, the 14 day cooling off was introduced to stop that practice. You can cancel a credit agreement within 14days without penalty.

There's no doubt in my mind - it's a road. It may be a private road, but it's a road all the same. If you did want to call it a driveway, where does it start? It's all one continuous surface - it doesn't cross any path, there's no walls or gates to define the area. That said, what difference does it make to the price if it's a driveway or a road? I get quoted the same price whether I say the car is kept on the road outside my house, on the drive or is kept in a locked garage !

Have always used their drive away insurance. As far as I'm aware there are no advantages, the disadvantage for me being their quote is never compeditive. I've always found them expensive.

Look, this has been discussed before. You've went thru the process but obviously you have no idea how it works. 1: You are NOT withdrawing from the PCP, you are settling the PCP. 2: The 14day period has nothing whatsoever to do with settling a PCP. People get confused between cancelling a PCP and settling a PCP and no wonder, because what you've just written is complete garbage. You did NOT cancel your PCP, you settled it. After 14 days you're Settling. WTF ? You can settle after 14hrs, 14 days, 14 weeks, 14 months etc. You can settle a PCP at anytime, however you only have a limited period before you can cancel the agreement without penalty, as set out in the various credit acts. If you look at my past history, I've explained step-by-step how it works for those who don't understand it.

Sorry to be a tad pedantic, but for others reading this who're not familiar with this way to purchase a car, it's not a loophole. The question you should be: Does VWFS still allow financing a car through PCP to be settled at anytime during the agreement without additional penalty? And the answer is yes ( well it was up to last month. can't comment on Feb 2024 ). But you're absolutley right to question it because not all manufacturers work in the same way and VWFS may change. I've come across one who hide their fees behind government guidelines which I believe goes against financial rules. The finance company should set out what that fee is and give you a breakdown of how it's calculated rather than effectively say, " we've pushed buttons and twirled knobs and come up with £626 to settle your agreement. " It's something they add on to the settlement figure without even telling you what it's for. I've spent more hours than I should have trying to investigate this and still cannot come up with an answer to how these finance companies calculate that figure. I'm currently awaiting a decision from the financial ombusman. But as far as VWFS is concerned, up until last month anyway, they we're still just charging minimal interest but not in the way you describe above. They have a min fee which is nominal ( depending on your finance package ) then what they do is charge the greater of the two - the daily interest or nominal fee. If you settle within a few days, the nominal fee will kick in rather than the daily interest, but it's only around the £30 mark. Hope that helps.

My question to you and the other garage naysayers is if we've not to trust the garage, who do we trust?

When I looked at the extended warranty, it wasn't bettered by any 3rd party - I reckon it's as good a warranty as you'll find. Overpriced? Depends on personal circumstances I guess. The question is can you get a better deal elsewhere? Example : I bought MOT via Groupon - £25 ( there's always someone with an offer ). Skoda charge £55 per MOT. Skoda's breakdown / recovery is the AA's top service for £110 year. But I don't need any of that. All I want is the car recovered to a dealer if it can't be fixed roadside, I want them to come to my home if it breaks down here, And there's no point in me paying for European breakdown if my car will never be driven in Europe. I bought a years cover from another recovery broker that suits me for £20 which is a fraction of what the All-in-1 plan includes. And when the warranty runs out, Skoda made me an offer for warraty alone at a reduced price. All of that worked out better for me than their All-in-1 package but of course, that may not be true / suit everyone. You say it runs out end of March. Is it worthwile hanging on and waiting for special offers? I seem to remember offers being made late summer last year, then of course there's the time around Black Friday. If your car doesn't need serviced between end of March and then is it worth putting these off? Recent price hike to £900? I can't remember the T&C of the earlier plans but I'm pretty sure spark plugs were not included when I looked at All-in-1 in August of last year. Now that they are included, that might explain the price rise. I could of course be talking complete nonsense - it's just a guess. Skoda also quote £220 for those spark plugs + pollen filer + air filter which is quite expensive. You should be able to buy those for half the price elsewhere and none require a degree in rocket science to replace. So for me, yes £900 for 2yr all-in-1 would be more expensive than PAYG.

👍 Spot on. For the majority of PCP, buying has nothing to do with it, it's more akin to a lease. I'm sure some will, but I don't know anyone who's bought their car after the PCP has run it's full term. PCP is all about how much are the monthly payments. I usually consult DriveTheDeal website as they're typically up to speed on what the latest offer is. They're saying that their discount prices included a £3250 PCP contribution from the finance company plus an additional £1000 contribution if an order is placed by the end of the month. It'll be that additional £1000 discount from the finance company that'll be refered to as the 'sale' or 'special offer' SurreyJohn - Apologies if I'm stating the obvious, but it doesn't matter what the actual sale figure is, if that figure is lower than what the figure would have been had there not been a sale on, then I can't see why anyone wouldn't think it a sale? EDIT: Just looked at the Skoda website. The figures used in their calculations are based on the standard £3250 contribution, but they haven't taken in to account the extra £1000 which is being applied as part of the sale. One thing I do note about what DriveTheDeal says, is that for non-PCP buyers, ( i.e. cash buyers ) Skoda are saying they're entitled to £2750 off + an extra £500 off due to this sale offer. That never used to be the case with cash buyers after the dealer discount has been applied. It tells me Skoda are desperate to shift cars at the moment. I wonder if this has anything to do with the upcoming penalties that are about to be applied to car dealers for not selling enough EV's ? I can certainly see why they'd want to get rid of cars to avoid those penatlies. DTD are offering that Karoq SE Drive ( list £28365 ) at £23085 which is a discount of £5280 which is a % discount in the high teens. So all you do is buy it on PCP and settle in the following days to get the car at that price. All new car prices are crazy at the moment, but comparing it to the alternatives, it's seems a decent enough offer. In my humble opinion of course.

👍 The 'coast' thing is a red herring no doubt dreamt up by those who've never had the problem. It's cleary a quality issue unique to many VW group cars. In almost 40 years of driving I've never once needed to change discs or pads on any of my cars. I had to change my rear discs and pads after 3yr / 13k but noway was I going to risk them being replaced by the same OEM parts - I used Bosch this time. What I think would be interesting to know, is that out of those of us VW group owners who've changed the OEM discs + pads for popular named brands, how long have those replacements lasted - less, the same or longer than the OEMs. I suspect it may be the latter. Surely they can't be any worse! Edit - I say never had the problem, I did, back in 2002 - 2004 on a Volvo. The difference being Volvo acknowledged there was a quality problem and replaced the discs under warranty - twice !

Eh? 🤪

Rarely ever look at Forums other than the cars I've owned ( or anything to do with insurance ). I'm only going on my personal experience. My last service was just 3months ago - 3rd year service on a 1.5tsi Kodiaq and the brake fluid was recommended at 3yr. And I had it changed, just not a Skoda prices . In anycase, it's only a recommendation.

All the information is on the main skoda website under service and maintenance. I'm very sure those facts are accurate because I've owned many VW group vehicles, including a Karoq that I've recently sold and a Kodiaq that I currently drive. The Octavia, Ateca and Golf's previous to that were all under the same routine. ( the golfs were at the time when brake fluid change was recommended after 2yr ). The only thing that's changed in recent years regarding servicing and maintenance is the terminology and of course the cambelt schedule. As with all VW group cars in the UK, the manuifacturer provides a 3yr warranty from first registration therefore it ain't rocket science to work out when the warranty ends. Seems to be rocket science for the salesman you spoke to. I'm not 100% sure on how Skoda work especially post Brexit, but typically a manufacturer 3yr warranty is made up of 2yr warranty ( std in EU ) + 1 year dealer warranty. I've never had an issue with VW group warranties, but I have with Ford and that was because at the time, their 3 year warranty consisted of 1yr manufacturer warranty and 2yr dealer warranty - i.e. the warranty in years 2 and 3 came out of the dealer's own budget. That's why it was like getting blood out of a stone to make a warranty repair on a Ford in year 2 and 3.

What vested interest would there be for a dealer providing inaccurate warranty information? The issue is the OP's dealer isn't giving any information.