SkOmk4

I also posted more than one year ago my own experience with the GoodYear that were factory fitted - they were awful in terms of cabin noise! I could have told whenever the asphalt texture/quality was changing along my trip, even if I would have drove with my eyes closed! However, as soon as I changed the summer tire set to the winter one - based on Bridgestone Blizzak LM005, I had a totally different car! Quiet as a feather! IIRC the noise rating on the summer GY is better than the one of the Blizzak, but in real life, on this particular car - it was the other way around.

No, I'm saying the exact opposite: standard suspension on Octavia is set to be softer - therefore if you drive faster around the corners you'll feel it has a tendency to oscillate/float outside the curve, and on straight lines over high speed bumps it will normally feel a bit "as a boat over the waves" - as you described in your first post. If your driving style is calm - then there's no problem. If you're usually hard on the accelerator - get the stiffer suspension, or the DCC one.

The Search Function on this (and any other) Forum is so useful when used!!!

There are at least 4 topics on the Facelift of Octavia... However, AFAIK Skoda didn't announce anything about an iV (PHEV) version for the FL - unlike it's platform and group siblings (Golf, Formentor) that do offer the new PHEV (1.5 TSI + 20 kWh battery) for their facelifts. Do you have a link for that piece of info, or is it just a rumor?

Indeed, the standard suspension on Octavia is comfort-oriented, if you like pushing the car on curves or winding mountain roads it may feel a bit floaty, or boat-like. If you hate that behavior AFAIK you have two options: get the DCC, or get the sportier suspension option which is also about 15 mm lower than standard IIRC.

Thanks! I understood the effect, but I'd love to know the cause of it. Since I have the same system (on a different car, though) I'd like to know where the leak/loss occurs. I know the car will still run on ICE, but I'm a daily EV user...

Could you please give some details on this problem that seems to be "standard" for the PHEV cooling?

It seems to be Fuse #19 ("emergency call") in the dash panel. It's also a good idea to check for your car version - the image below is for the 2022 model: https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

Just make sure the rear passengers are using their seatbelts!!! 😉

Following the relevant story of @Edela and the symptoms that you describe, I'd ask the Skoda service for a shock test. That shouldn't be too complicated or too expensive. I requested such a test on one of my previous cars (it was noise related, not car instability), the dealership said it couldn't be the shock-absorbers. I insisted, and mentioned I would pay for the test if the shocks are in order, and they should pay for it if they were faulty... Surprise: it was one of the front shocks!

It's most likely related to the suspension setup of the Octavia - it is more "comfort" oriented than what you might be used to from the previously owned A3. This "jumpy" behavior that you describe (to the right or to the left - depending on which side the road is bent or curved), is one of the few reasons (but not the main one) I moved away from Octavia which is otherwise a lovely car. If you really love the car and want to keep it, but you can't live with the "floaty-behavior", you might look into suspension replacement with a stiffer one. There's at least one topic around here on suspension-mods.

Check the fuse list/diagram - both inside the car and the engine bay... It seems to me that the one controlling the central locking has nothing to do with the charging flap. https://digital-manual.skoda-auto.com/w/en_GB/show/6894308d6886e761eceb2387115c9635_9_en_GB?ct=b5c5b826cda76c9eac1445256d1e739f_1_en_GB#titled1462769e158737 However, one might try to "reset" the charging system by pulling out fuse #3 in the engine compartment - see attached. (not sure if that's wise to do or not) There's also fuse #28 in the dashboard, but it's specifically mentioned "The fuse may only be replaced by a specialist garage", so I wouldn't play with that...

FYI... https://vi.aliexpress.com/item/1005005657167650.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2vnm https://vi.aliexpress.com/item/1005005481017324.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2vnm One might find several different such kits; choose carefully.

Check out the first several posts of this topic:

Those 21(+/-1) seconds from Start to Audio playing is an eternity... But it also depends on the Audio source - if it's Phone or USB you should also add the time needed by the MiB to access that source. I found that it may vary A LOT between different engine starts. Radio should be the "benchmark" for such time comparisons. Do you reset the system once in a while? Usually it becomes a bit more responsive after reset.

I'm still trying to understand what's the car the OP has problems with... (probably I'm missing something)

Ok, that was actually my first question after reading your first post: Have you tried with a different phone? Check if your AA is up-to-date... Over the past 10 days, I've received 2 AA updates (on Android 14); 1st update made AA slightly unresponsive, 2nd one kind of fixed the issue.

This version of VAG PHEV is only able to charge at 3 kW max, and with the "reduced charging" option activated it will even go down to 1 kW. Indeed, the user should check the socket (and circuit) power rating, but without grounding it's a no-go...

That must be the reason. AFAIK the "home charger" needs a functional grounding circuit in order to work.

I have the very same engine and transmission on Formentor PHEV, and never had the feeling that the car goes into higher revs than what I was asking via the accelerator. It happened a few times that it went to higher revs than I was expecting, but it was exclusively my fault: I was in S and I was downshifting (manually); once I resumed the acceleration, I wasn't paying attention that the car stays in M. However, you can easily avoid the high revs using the paddle shifter - I do that sometimes. I only feel that for the "crawling" setting - I find it to be quite jerky sometimes, depending on traffic. When you're stuck in crowded traffic at very low pace, foot not even on the accelerator and the car barely moving, sometimes there's some "clunk-clunk" noise coming from the transmission (or the e-motor) that you can also feel in the car-body. I think that's caused by the car quickly oscillating between regen and traction - as it's unsure what to do at that slow moving pace. That could be surely optimized; I sometimes "force" the gearbox into M1 to avoid that behavior...

Ok, since it's available for Golf 8 for some time and I have it on my Formentor for about 2 months now, I was assuming it was also released for Octavia - though I never checked...

First of all, you need to specify what "latest software" you have. As far as I know 1969 is also released for Skoda too, so 1941 is no longer "the latest". Secondly,the restart of the Android Auto alone is sometimes related to the phone-infotainment connection problems or instability; but it's hard to say if it is exclusively the fault of the infotainment. I remember that on my Skoda, after the update to 1941, my AA was also restarting apparently) randomly while connected via cable. After several such occurrences I noticed a pattern: the AA restart was only happening when the phone battery was reaching 100% SoC (S21 Ultra). The fix I found was to unplug the cable before phone reached 100%, it would automatically go on wireless AA, and it was stable. In this case I blame the phone, not the MiB.

I was also looking forward to see what they've changed on the PHEV, but not a word about it. If you really need the bigger battery/range and you also need the volume of an estate, have a look at the new Superb - it has the new PHEV configuration (1.5 TSI) with the bigger battery and faster charging option, and IIRC two power versions. Sure, it's a bigger class, different price...

https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/en-US