SkOmk4

Just to clarify (or better understand your question/problem): what do you mean by "auto mode"? The car can drive in electric mode (assuming there's some energy in the HV battery) or hybrid mode. No, I think there's some misunderstanding somewhere - you can "ask" the car to drive in hybrid mode even when your HV battery is charged to full capacity if that is what you want. I can only assume that you are referring to the "Auto" checkbox in the attached snapshot. That one does NOT refer to the driving mode, and it only makes sense if you are in Hybrid-mode: - if you drive in EV-mode the battery can only discharge (unless you're going down a mountain, in which case it might charge) ; - if you're in Hybrid-mode with "Auto" tick-box checked the car will use the battery as it considers necessary - so it will eventually deplete; - Hybrid-mode with "Auto" unchecked will allow you to use the up/down arrows (see "D"-indicator in the attached picture) to maintain or set a desired battery charge level that the car will try to achieve. If the "desired" charge level is lower than your current charge level - the battery will go down, but not bellow the level that you set. If the desired charge level is above your current battery charge, the car will use the combustion engine to charge the HV battery via the electric motor... ###

1985 is the latest SW version only for MiB3; since @naksik has the facelift model, he has the new infotainment - generically called MiB3.5 if I'm not mistaking...

Yes, that's how I updated the Navigation database; I wasn't using an empty USB.

You can configure the "Individual" driving mode with everything set to "Sport" and with sound effects (or whatever they are called) set to "OFF". If there's an option to have any kind of sound effect set through the driving-mode setting - it means that the car HAS some sort of artificial/fake sound - either from a soundaktor (which I also know is gone on the Facelift Octavia), or directly through the speakers. If you don't have a sound option, then there's no fake sound... BTW... go online and look for the User Manual using your VIN - it should be quite easy to find the details you're searching for...

I'm guessing your car was delivered with some sort of manual.... not to mention unlimited online resources 🤕

Since you mentioned this - I was wondering if you know is there a similar SW version for the Cupra models? Of course, I'm asking for the Formentor in my signature; the Cupra online community seems to know nothing about such an update. Is there a list of changes/fixes for this new version? Thanks!

Is there some info (Release Note) for this SW version? What are the main changes/improvements with respect to v.1969?

Annoyed by the fact that both fluids are low (one below min.) I dug a little further, and checked the Service Manual. The cooling system for the HV-system has a dedicated section obviously. It seems that only for the Factory delivery it's ok for the coolant level to be at the weld seam. For ALL the following service checks the coolant level has to be brought up to the MAX marking: This piece of info is in agreement with what I noticed since I got the car (new): the coolant level was at the edge of the weld seam. However, at the first oil change service they should have filled it up to MAX level, according to the Procedure in their Service Manual: Besides that, what bothers me most, is that at the first oil change service that I had more than one month ago, the service sheet that I received clearly mentions that they checked the coolant level for the HV-system and the integrity of the seal... However, the fact that the level is at the minimum for this one and 1 cm below min. for the ICE coolant is clearly indicating they didn't check a damn thing. The probability for both fluids getting so low since the oil-service is too small.

As far as I knew - please correct me if I'm wrong - once there's no coolant (or low level) in the hybrid circuit, the car will restrict the EV mode. I haven't got any warning yet, but I'm anticipating I will... I'll keep an eye on the coolant level. I'm guessing the hybrid system is able to override any user-setting, and put regen to off/zero, so driving on ICE wouldn't be a big issue I suppose. P.S. this morning, after the surprise I had yesterday evening, I decided to also check the ICE coolant level... it's below minimum! What on Earth are those guys doing at the 1 year service - I had it done about 1 month ago...

I need a piece of advice from those of you who got the HV coolant error. This afternoon I was checking stuff under the bonnet (I do that from time to time - bad habit), and the fluid level seemed low on the second circuit - see attached video. It was usually close to the maximum, and as I can see it now, it's barely 1-2mm above the MIN marker. A bit of context: the outside temp was 19-20 degrees C, and it was just after a 12 km drive in EV-mode, so the coolant should have been a bit warm. The thing is I don't want to wait for the warning/error to come up on the dashboard, since that would render the EV-mode unusable. As it would take some time to get an appointment with the dealership to evaluate the problem and some time after for the components to be delivered, I'm probably looking ahead at 1 month of driving ICE exclusively... 😡 So I'd like to evaluate the issue before the car "runs out" of EV-mode. Did any of you get a service diagnosis before the coolant reservoir was empty? (or before the level got below the MIN marker?) P.S. the car is a Cupra Formentor, but it has an identical hybrid system... Formi_HV_coolant.mp4

IIRC some "validation" is needed from Skoda for you to be able to become a Primary User - the dealership takes care of that. I remember asking for validation for both Octavia and the Formentor - they need to confirm the email address that is associate to your Skoda Account.

If you have the facelift Octavia, AFAIK the latest evolution of the 1.5 TSI angine no longer has a physical dipstick. However, there's an electronic gauge for the oil level which is accessible via the "Car menu" in the infotainment.

That's what they keep telling everybody... However, since the car is not always behaving like that, I doubt that their answer is also the right one.

Mine also doesn't behave like that way all the time, it's kind of sporadic (hence difficult to reproduce with the service engineer on a test drive), but I've noticed it occurring only in heavy traffic. For example when the line ahead of me is very slowly moving (either playing with the clutch, or crawling in an automatic but with the foot on the breaks), I barely touch the accelerator such that the car releases the AutoHold, or alternatively I have the AutoHold OFF and I slightly release the brake pedal so the car starts to move. Strange enough, the car is not jerking in all those cases, but randomly in some of them - I'd say maybe 10-20% of the cases. That's why I developed the habit of not moving the car for every 2-3 meters gap created by the car ahead of me; I'm waiting for a bit more space to avoid this very low speed crawling. BTW, I didn't notice this kind of behavior when pulling away constantly

I do notice the same behavior on my Formentor - the same PHEV system as the one you have on Octavia. I've also seen it mentioned on other forums or goups - it seems to be the norm of this "package". The so called "jerking" only occurs (in my case) while trying to crawl at very slow speed; the technical explanation being that once the car starts to move, it realizes it gets too close to the car in front and quickly puts the motor into regen-mode. A quick succession of those modes (move-regen-move-regen...) results in this jerky crawling. I also mentioned this to the dealership, also complaining about the clunky noises that come with the jerky crawling. They answered that it is "normal" behavior and that the noises we hear are coming from the transmission, because modern ones use thinner oils and are therefore noisier than before... Not happy with the answer, but it seems to be a well-known issue.

It's actually a glitch in the capacitive steering-wheel sensitivity; I also get it sometimes even when the car is well-centered inside the lane and the road is straight. Changing the hand position on the wheel or tightening the grip solves the "problem".

Actually, it's the fuel tank that is raising the boot floor; the HV battery is sitting if front of the rear axle, and the fuel tank is behind the rear axle. The mass distribution front-rear should be better than that of non-hybrid cars, but the extra weight is clearly there... That's a common downside over all the VAG PHEVs - I can't imagine what they are thinking! when you move from a standstill, if you press the accelerator a little harder, the E-motor delivers directly all the 330 Nm of torque. I find that the traction control implementation in EV mode is a poor joke! But I've learnt to manage the tire-spin by controlling the pedal-pressure for the initial movement of the wheels; after 3-5 km/h you can accelerate with full confidence... 👍 the PHEV is not for those not charging too often. Otherwise it simply becomes a HEV with extra-weight.

Where are you based? What are the temperatures over there "in the sun"? Did you have any sort of sunscreen covering your dashboard?

Conti EcoContact are LRR tires (Low Rolling Resistance) - which means lower friction, and also less noise. I noticed they were quiet - had them factory fitted on my Formentor. I had to remove them ASAP, since they were loosing grip on almost every sportier start (from 0 km/h) and sometimes while braking on wet - they made the car feel extremely insecure.

I would say it's the very same car if didn't know better... 😂 (but I do, and it's not...)

Does it beep when it decides to stop lifting the tailgate? I'm only asking because you might need to take a small (not too small) step back. When the car "knows" you're too close to the rear bumper, it stops the opening process to avoid hitting you in the face with the lower side of the tailgate.

You have here all the info you might need:

I had a Megane 2 for 15 years, indeed - the build quality was far better then compared to nowadays. I wouldn't say it was the quietest car I had, but it was a diesel - that might explain why. Had also an mk4 Megane for 2 years, also diesel - it was better soundproofed compared to the mk2, also slightly better materials inside here and there, but it was not as reliable as the mk2. Now back on topic, the mk4 Octavia, even with it's bigger diesel engine was quieter than the above-mentioned Megane(s) - which for me it meant that Skoda took greater care in isolating the engine-bay noise. (there's also some technical and soundproofing material evolution to be taken into account, since the Megane 2 was lauched in 2001 IIRC, and the M4 in 2016). Most of the noise I had in the cabin of Octavia was coming from the lower side, especially from the front - that's why I mentioned in my previous post the tires were noisy. And to support this idea, the noise (intensity and frequency) was changing with the tarmac texture. On the other hand, I added the optional soundproofing side windows, so most of the aerodynamic noise at high speed was kept outside.

Over the past (almost) 9 months I've had the twin-brother PHEV, I found that after 10-14 days of EV drive exclusively, the car decides to start the ICE. Normally I drive in EV Monday-to-Friday and have some longer trips over the weekend in hybrid mode, such that over the entire next week I'm "safe" to run EV only. However, I noticed that extreme temps (cold or hot) and the use of preconditioning (heating or cooling the car) sometimes makes the ICE start by itself even sooner than 10 days since it was last used.

I never said I had a set of tyres that made it impossible to notice the difference between loud and quiet tarmac, did I? 😁 I only said that the Blizzak made a huge difference in terms of cabin noise, compared to the factory-fitted GYs. I could still hear the difference between loud and quiet, but both surfaces were less noisy than they were with the summer GY. I'm talking about the same roads, same driver, same car load and same tyre pressure to be more precise. I wasn't methodical enough to make some cabin noise measurements, but I was not planning to convince others that there's a significant cabin noise difference between the two sets.