Athrx

Once all 4 are done, go through each wire one by one, trying to find the correct slack inside the speaker. From factory they're soldered in such a way that they mostly bend at the ends, so we want to avoid that! It should be able to travel to both extreme ends and kind of arc in the middle. Once that's sorted, solder everything back and measure the resistances Both of mine came up at about 6.6-6.7 ohms. With the previous wire they were at about 15 ohms best case, fluctuating badly with the slightest movement. Last thing to do is to glue everything back. I used gorilla glue because that's the only slightly flexible glue i have around. The correct thing to use would be loctite black tak 4105 plus their activator, both of which are very hard to find with a decent price And now we wait..

Tinsel wire arrived! First stop, decide which way the wire will go. I did it through the speaker, pulled through to the contacts. I found it easier this way because the copper will wick like crazy so it's better to slowly pull until i'm happy everything is tinned but not through the rest of the wire. After that i just cut the slack. Once that's done, leave about 4cm at the other end

The bolt pattern is something similar to the big dipper, like they couldn't quite fit 2 of the bolts into a square so buying a normal speaker means drilling into the box plastic. I'll get more pictures later on

Stuff stays off = fuse Stuff stays on = relay I'd investigate the battery and the doors close state first though. Does start-stop work once warmed up? If not, what does the car page say as the reason?

I don't see anyone doing this and i'm about to burn out the second subwoofer in a year. They all break the tinsel wire, sooner or later There's 0 for sale on ebay right now so my only solution is to fix the old one or try to find the unobtanium 6" twin coil 8 ohm aftermarket replacement... Did i mention the speaker has a weird bolt pattern? Anyway, here goes nothing. First step, take out the speaker from the box. Easy peasy. Step two, desolder the tinsel wire from both ends. Pain in the rear Step 3, wait for amazon to deliver 30 cars worth of tinsel wire today and hope it's the right thickness. Stay tuned!

Quick tip: a random elm obd2 plug and the car scanner app is enough to do the coding for the battery

As long as the call is on the instrument cluster, end call button should be highlighted by default and you can press the wheel to confirm (press end call button). On the radio screen you need to go to the phone section where it will be there front and center

£420 all in. I have no idea where he pulled the cable through as i can't see a single panel even slightly misplaced. Also, i emailed monday and he could fit me in friday, really happy with that. Those halfords techs need a good smacking. What happens when the airbag deploys?

Had a rear view camera retrofitted today by the nice guy at vw retrofit near Redditch. Also tried fixing the memory seats but no luck with odis, needs a new module :(

You cannot unfortunately just rip the shocks out and put non-dcc replacements in. You need dcc cancellers or many many hours de-coding the things off the car's control modules

I'm on 5mm after 15.000 hard life miles on michelin pilot sport 5. Very, very good grip and wear resistance but louder than the hankook ventus prime 2 they replaced. Loud(er) enough to notice after waiting an entire hour for fitting, with a new to me superb i had for a week

Thanks. Am i correct in assuming that it will instead work with the virtual cockpit retrofit? Luckily a seller made a pretty good offer on ebay for another one from a 2018 octavia, meaning i do keep the call button after all

Roughly how much did you pay?

I'm looking for one with the dsg paddles but round. The only ones that fit the bill are the karoq ones, but.. they all have a "view" button instead of phone call. Would this function as a phone call button or just confuse the instrument cluster? Also, are the backlights white on the karoq?

Hmm.. not sure what the handbrake thingy does, certainly haven't seen anything related before. What i do know can be changed is hill hold assist. Start/stop alteration can be changed but will trigger a fault constantly. I honestly prefer to flick it in sport near junctions and just let it be. Headlight washer will unfortunately always work 1'st time from ignition. Can be set to every 1000 cycles, it will still wash the first time. I'm happy to be proven wrong with the right coding adaptations though

Level is not critical, priming the pump, topping up and re-doing the basic setting is. Regarding vcds, i recommend activating: -locking of the doors with engine on from exterior handle/key -scandinavian lights (rear positions always on) -hvac fan activity visible when in auto mode -traffic sign recognition if not included -high beam memory (especially if sla/matrix equipped) -heated seats memory (i set driver's always passenger 10 minutes from ignition off) -disable overtaking right blocking (acc will undertake no problem) -Increase lane assist.. assistance? Stays in the middle of the lane, no longer drives like a drunk - change accelerator behaviour (from basically time lagged to direct input) There's probably more. None will rock your world or brew a cup of tea for you before you get in the car but they're nice to have

I think yours on the facelift kind of switches ignition on with opening the door. Does pressing the start/stop button with no brake turn everything back off? Btw, haldex is not a big job and there isn't much to get wrong either. If i had a ramp instead of jack stands i think i would have done mine in under 20 minutes. Most of it is priming the pump and waiting until it's at 20° to top up and tighten the fill bolt. Lastly, you're not far from me. If you fancy any vcds adaptations just let me know

Did you turn the ignition off? Engine off from start/stop then locking the car does not switch ignition off. I do this mistake sometimes then wonder why are the eyelashes still on an hour later. For haldex, get the pump seals and new drain bolts. Haldexrepairs should have a service kit special for this. One last thing to check is when was the last gearbox service

How much did you pay, wiper, battery and seat belt excluded? Did they offer any lube? I'd be asking for a refund for any work not yet completed, buy a £100-150 battery off eurocarparts in the exact spec required and have it fitted and coded for free at the nearest independent that will now do your actual service. Wiper is under £10 on ebay btw One thing to note, resetting inspection resets service interval as well, i don't think they had much of a choice there

Change intake and diesel filters first. If it's still there try to find someone with vcds to give it a proper scan. If you're in london we can have a look tomorrow

Anyone happen to go to the dealer with the proof they're doing a **** job? What happened?

Replaced my faulty haldex pump today. Could have probably gotten away with just cleaning the filter, but since i made it this far and was prepared for the worst..

Man i've been looking for this information absolutely everywhere! Can you confirm what address affects what sets of lights, roughly? There's 5 strips (well, technically 6) but 4 addresses in there

The coding above does not work from the mini facelift in early 2017-ish. What DOES work however is changing the throttle logic from "incremental over time" to "direct controlled over threshold value". It will snap into lower gears a lot more directly when you step on it but not quite all the way https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/454779-throttle-response/?do=findComment&comment=5110941

Heya, do you still have those door reflector lights?