Jocko

Maheshwaran posted two messages three years ago. He is long gone.

It doesn't, other than the fact that before moving here two years ago I was doing 16K a year and mpg was a game I played to see what I could do to get good numbers. I wasn't a Hypermiler as such (no switching the engine off to freewheel down hills or pumping my tyres up to 60 psi) but I liked to try and wring every last mile out of my petrol. As I said. Just a game.

From all the sites I have visited, my car is Euro 4 (first registered June 2009).

I just took the figures from this article https://motoreu.com/skoda-fabia-1.4-16v-mpg-fuel-consumption-technical-specifications-172602 Mind you, it says it is Euro 4..........

1.2 DSi is Dual Spark Ignition (two spark plugs per cylinder with the spark timing adjusted by the ECU). It is a petrol engine, not a diesel. I have never ever owned a diesel car Regarding engine oil. I always buy quality oil and change it at the engine manufacturers stated intervals or annually, whatever comes first. At my current mileage I will be changing my engine oil at around 1.000 miles!

My car does not have Stop/Start I am pleased to say. The WLTP Urban figure is only 33 mpg so considering the short runs in wet and cold conditions I suppose it is only to be expected. When Motor.EU tested it their estimated test consumption was 27 mpg!

I know the car would benefit from a good "Italian tune up" but I am not in a position to just go for a drive. My fill up yesterday cost one third of a week's pension. I only use the car when necessary. If I wasn't disabled I wouldn't have it. I have a couple of runs over to Fife at the end of the month so I will give it a good go then. Whenever I take a car out I like to do a couple of firm brake applications, early on, just to get the rust off the discs. My Jazz succumbed to the rust bug and it was going to cost too much to repair to pass another MOT. The reason I didn't buy another Jazz was, as always, my car buying tends to be a distressed purchase and at the time I couldn't find a Jazz locally at a price I could afford. The dealer I got the Fabia from had one but it was outside my meagre budget.

The brakes were repaired before my first fill up and yesterday was my first refill allowing me to to calculate my mpg. I always calculate the mpg. Like yourself I use SpritMonitor. The Jazz I had was the 1.2 DSi engine. Much more tractable than the V-TEC with bags of low down torque. It would run comfortably in 5th from 20 mph on a flat piece of road.

The engine is the 1.4 16V, not the 1.2. The car doesn't have a full service history. The oil, oil filter and spark plugs were changed before I got it (the oil was spotless when car was delivered). It went back for a replacement blower fan motor and while the garage had it they noticed a dragging rear brake so they stripped and fettled both rear drums. Regarding my right foot, it is very light. The Jazz did 62.5K on the same brake pads and they were not new when I got the car. The best tank of petrol on the Jazz was 70.9 mpg. I think the main problem is city or certainly urban driving.

BP is the only one close to me and where I was going. For the others I would have to drive in towards the city or out to Bonnyrigg or Straiton.

Today I refilled my fuel tank for the first time since initially filling the tank on the 3rd of January (I don't do a lot of miles). My calculated figure was 29.5 mpg which was a bit disappointing. My Jazz returned 55 mpg for the 62.5K I did with it. The only saving grace is that this figure was for the wettest and coldest months of the year. I got 275 miles out of the tankful and according to the MFD this was at an average speed of 14 mph. That is what driving in and around Edinburgh does. I would have been happier with the 32.6 mpg the optimistic MFD said I had managed. I use BP Ultimate E5 97 RON. When you are filling up once every few months there is no point in skimping on fuel. The top up took 9.3 gallons. Lets see what the summer brings.

I had a persistent rattle from the front passenger door and I sprayed all the seams with WD-40 44722 Specialist High Performance Silicone Lubricant which cured the problem. it is worth a try.

The yellow indication signifies low oil level. The filter or double seals should not affect that. Low oil pressure shows up red.

I had an S40 and loved it. Hope you have a similar experience with the S60.

With my car all the sidelights, including the number plate lights, come on with the engine off.

According to the manual the MFD shows: STOP OIL PRESS. ENGINE OFF! OWNER'S MANUAL! if the oil pressure is low, accompanied with an audible alarm.

My model does not have an oil pressure light on the speedo/rev counter. I has a central Multi Function Display and this indicates low oil pressure if necessary. The manual reads: The warning light on vehicles fitted with information display does not come on after switching the ignition on, but only if a fault exists or the engine oil level is too low.

You are talking about something like this https://cpc.farnell.com/multicomp-pro/mp760609/clamp-meter-6000-count-600a/dp/IN08989?mckv=s_dc|pcrid|426684131405|kword||match||plid||slid||product|IN08989|pgrid|100371162238|ptaid|pla-1824361663826|&CMP=KNC-GUK-CPC-SHOPPING-9262013734-100371162238-IN08989&s_kwcid=AL!5616!3!426684131405!!!network}!1824361663826!&gclid=CjwKCAjwo7iiBhAEEiwAsIxQEUEoh6-ffJpogKmEbYIEUGMXJYQBZbWwCr_B0t--yXHuN0uMj-mHrBoCo2sQAvD_BwE which clamps round the cable and measures DC and AC current flow. However, it only tells you the current is flowing (which if your PAS is not working it probably isn't). If you can measure the voltage under load that will tell you if you have a cable fault or if the motor is likely to be faulty. No load voltage - supply fault (possible bad connection) Full voltage under load - probable motor fault.

If these are in fact the recommended plugs for the car then the gap is 1.1 mm.

The coolant has never moved since I got it and it is clean and fresh. It is quiet enough when cold and the rattle does sound exhaust related. I enjoy driving it though I feel it would benefit from better quality tyres.

I know the cambelts were changed by the Main Dealer at 26,500 miles but not the tensioner, however I do not know if the water pump was ever changed. I have no history after 35,080 until buying the car 200 miles ago. The car has not yet covered 70,000 miles.

Thanks. The problem is I do not have confidence in the car as yet. Up until eighteen months ago I was driving 12,000 to 16,000 miles a year and I soon got to trust my cars. With this one I have only covered 208 miles since getting it at Christmas. Not enough miles to build confidence. I tend to worry about noises. Once, while driving up to Aberdeen in an old Ford, I thought I heard a big end rumble. I was in two minds whether to turn back, but my mum was in the car and I didn't want to worry her so I carried on. 20,000 miles later I crashed it into the front of a lorry and the big ends were still in perfect condition. I am just a worrier and trying to run the car on my old age pension does not help.

When my engine is warm and the car is idling in my drive there is a slight rattle from somewhere in the engine bay. It sounds like it could be an exhaust rattle or a loose heatshield. On revving up it goes away. Is this a sign of a failing water pump? BXW engine with 70K miles.

Do you mean PTFE tape (as used for thread sealing) or PVC electrical tape?

Many years ago I had a Vauxhall Carlton automatic and it started putting out white smoke under acceleration. It was not losing oil or coolant. Eventually I lost drive on the motorway. The problem was the actuator for gear changing. It was worked off the manifold depression and the diaphragm had perished and the engine was sucking out the transmission fluid and burning it.. A new actuator cured the problem. I have no idea if there is something similar on the DSG box but it was not something that crossed my mind when it started smoking.