Jocko

Snap.

I just had mine recharged after the same 318 code. KwikFit did it. Beautifully cold now. Even the chiller section in the glovebox.

That will update automatically the next time I log a fill up on Spritmonitor. These are average calculated figures for a full top up.

Today, I finally got my first decent run out in the car. 150 miles, mainly dual carriageways and easy country roads. It was also a cracker of a dry day. According to the the MFD readout, 54 mpg. I know these are always optimistic but I am happy with the numbers I am seeing.

First thing I would do is wind the window down, fire some talc into the channel both edges of the glass and see what that does. May do nothing but it won't cost you anything (assuming of course you have talc - or French chalk even).

I wouldn't know what to look for with VCDS Lite. Regarding the toothed ring, I was going by what the Haynes manual tells me. Time was you could rely on the Haynes manual for accurate information. It would appear no longer to be the case.

I think when 26DIPP asked "Do you have ABS - anti lock - function?", he meant was it working, not was the car fitted with it. That was how I interpreted it. I know the car has it, hence the warning light. @adamytIt originally came on after about a mile or so of starting out. I have done a couple of longer journeys since and it has stayed out. It is possibly an iffy sensor or the toothed hub is clogged up. As I said, it came on during the test drive and I pointed it out to the seller, but if, like me, it was out the next time the ignition was turned on, his mechanic would not have registered a fault. Neither would the MOT station that tested it before I picked the car up.

I have no idea. I was driving in city traffic when the light came on, I continued to the next red light, switched the ignition off and on again and the light went out. It has not come on since.

Somehow this posted twice. Could a Moderator delete this post? Thank you.

The ABS warning light came on this afternoon but the first red light I came to I switched the ignition off and back on and it went out and stayed out. Now, when I test drove the car back in December, the light came on, but when the dealer tried it there was no fault to see and obviously it has been fine since then. Is this likely to be a dodgy sensor? I have VCDS Lite. Will that be of any use in determining the problem?

The ABS warning light came on this afternoon but the first red light I came to I switched the ignition off and back on and it went out and stayed out. Now, when I test drove the car back in December, the light came on, but when the dealer tried it there was no fault to see and obviously it has been fine since then. Is this likely to be a dodgy sensor? I have VCDS Lite. Will that be of any use in determining the problem?

@Breezy_PeteWould it be possible to swap the wires over at the other end of the harness where they may be beside each other? 50 years ago I was a Prototype Wireman working on Hawker Siddeley Nimrod flight simulators and we were always encouraged to make the smallest changes to the wiring possible, such as where they all met at one connector.

You could even switch a small relay from the dashcam source and use the relay to switch the 12v to the stereo. That way there would be no danger of overloading. https://www.amazon.co.uk/QWORK-Relay-Heavy-Socket-Harness/dp/B086JVZ7B2/ref=sr_1_6?crid=3G8POR5TBWVPX&keywords=12+volt+relay&qid=1685528537&sprefix=12+volt+relay%2Caps%2C181&sr=8-6 This would be good for a stereo giving about 200w per stereo channel.

Could you not just take the feed from the same place as the dashcam?

Not bad for 14 years old.

My Fabia 2009 you press the button once to unlock the driver's door then again to unlock the rest of the doors and the boot.

Try toot's ideas and if they don't work the first thing I would do is buy myself a compression tester and test it myself. You can get one for under £20. I do not know about the VRS engine but in my experience, over many years, low compression on adjoining cylinders is commonly a blown cylinder head gasket. If indeed there is low compression on cylinders 2 and 3, before spending money on a box of parts, lift the head and have a look at the gasket.

Got the system re-gassed today. They told me there are no leaks and the air is now coming out at 4°C.

I haven't had the oil separator off, but yesterday I checked inside the oil filler cap and it is spotless. No Mayo whatsoever. Today I closed the hatch and there was a metallic clunk from underneath the car. A quick check revealed the heatshield above the back box was detached and lying on the exhaust. I fixed that so we will see what that has done. I did say at the very beginning it sounded like a loose heatshield.

@Breezy_Pete Would this KKL cable do for my 2009 Fabia? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/304753040391?hash=item46f4b25c07:g:0OgAAOSwy-FjrC1-&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAAwBLrizxPfpEl6BUcOe0w9JNQ7NydgspFUfOtULpoBns0u0ZiHLsIGTA9CjQPtf97ZAyizVpqXB0G%2Bm2zDOAS%2FGsVH%2FITfF%2Fv4Flnku%2BVzkMZSzRoYmalCvBI%2Fi%2FSUHFaamXdulCV6HUy8%2BY9EA32ZJNefbJJAMa%2Fu2rFDXpKOgAie8YU48oAftErqcO3dlCn%2F2EF%2BWyf7Bov0p5d2%2BVQgJSNcF7KOFr%2BBzyRY%2FEtcGguGioicTxEIO2kaaeWCH9vRw%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR5Cv8t2JYg

I realise it had popped out accidentally but I wondered if they pull out to allow them to be cleaned.

Yesterday I noticed that one of the screen wash jets was spraying everywhere except where I wanted it to go. I thought it was possibly blocked. Later I went out with a pin to check it was clear and that was when I realised the nozzle assembly was sitting proud of the housing. I pushed it back firmly into place and it worked great. My question is: Do the nozzles pop out for cleaning? It was only sticking out a few millimetres, like a drawer. Never seen jets like that before.

Or you could do what I would do. Use the fan on settings 2 and 3 and forget about 1. Total cost, zilch.

Check the earth cable linking the engine/transmission to the chassis. A bad or slack connection here will give the symptoms you report.

That was for the benefit of @skodafabia9000