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Match 5.4 DSP Setting


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Hi All,

 

I recently purchased the Match 5.4 DSP to try and bring some more life into the stock speakers also to add a subwoofer.

 

Has anyone here installed any Match dsp into their car and if you have what settings did you use for the dsp?

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I left all the settings within the DSP stock and didn’t choose the more advanced DSP setting. I am really impressed with how much it has changed the system. The highs are clear now and don't sound muddy. The bass is tighter even without the sub and the volume has also increased a decent amount. A few things to note, the system now sounds very balanced even with the subwoofer it’s not overwhelming. If you’re installing this on a RHD car, space to fit the DSP is an issue so it doesn’t interfere with the glovebox and all the videos are demonstrated on LHD. If you want help I’m more than happy to show you how I have mounted it.

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Yeah I’ll be interested to see how you have mounted it, mine is also a RHD (UK VRS hatch).

 

Which sub did you go for also? I’m looking at something like an aftermarket in-spare wheel sub, to sit neatly out of the way. (Thought I’ve recently seen people recommending the B&O Q5 2021+ in wheel sub as a decent option too). 

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I’m interested in this also, was disappointed to find the VRS came without a sub but generally, it sounds fine for everyday driving but would be nice to find some kind of upgrade like you describe, can you also link where you bought from 

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I have been looking at that thread as well but it seems like they have the Canton system so the Q5 sub can be dropped in but from what I can tell the 8 speaker system doesn’t come with any wiring or amp from the factory so it won’t work.

 

I’ve installed the Match PP 8E-Q just because I found it cheap. The issue is this sub is rated for 3 ohms and the Match 5.4 provides either 90 watts at 4 ohm or 160 watts at 2 ohm but it still does support my sub. It doesn’t give me a rating for 3 but let’s say it’s in the middle of the two so around 125watts. I believe for better compatibility and slightly more power I should have bought the PP 7S-D which is rated at 2 ohms.

 

Regarding the placement when the glovebox is off you will see space that can be accessed by removed the trim as show in the photos below. I wrapped the amp in some double sided stick tape so it doesn’t rub against the cars metal frame then zip tied it in to avoid it moving. If you even need to change the amp setting you can easily remove the side trim and plug in the usb cable.

 

 

IMG_2068.jpeg

IMG_2067.jpeg

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Looks great.

 

Did you use the “medium” power with the standard wiring or run a +12v for high power?

 

Im wanting to run the higher power for mine, but don't really want to run to the battery terminal if i can help it. 
I’d much sooner add a new fuse holder and 30A fuse to an existing fuse box space, and run it from there (ideally where the original fuse for a canton amplifier would be for a canton specced car) - just to keep it neat. 

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  • 4 months later...
  • 1 month later...

Hi all.

Just Resurrecting this thread as I'm about to pull the trigger on a used Match 5.4 Mk1 Minus the looms.

Apart from the Loom which comes with the kit, could any of you advise which loom you purchased in order to plug n play with the Skoda/VAG?

 

Any pics which you might have taken during your install will be gratefully received.

 

Thanks in advance. 

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Only got a few minutes, but my experience so far:

 

The sub makes the difference, giving the door speakers room to breathe for low-mid range.

 

Things i did:
- Used my Audyssey microphone that comes with many cinema receivers and laptop (disabling al input processing) to tune the EQ with TuneEQ   -> and for Timing

- Got a lot of improvement when i dit the input equalizer, MIB unit messes with the EQ itself a lot.

- Mayor improvement setting the MIB unit to front speakers and routing the Front Inputs to the rear speakers,  the MIB unit does something strange with the rear speakers signal which cannot be compensated for. (Found this on a skoda forum, tried it and was really happy with it :)

- Use the WAV files that come with the software to tune the right things.

 

Right Order:

-> Timing
-> Input EQ  (Disable outputs in software for a quite time :) )

-> Route front signal to rears (Virtual chanel processing)

-> Output TuneEQ

 

Was quite happy but still the tweeter was killing me. Could not damp it enough in the match to my liking.

So i had some spare crossovers which have -3db setting on the tweeter, installed this and redid TuneEQ and was much more satisfied.

Have now bought som Gladen CL-ONE crossovers because the ones i had are to big to fit, still have to mount these and test.

 

-> Bought an Remote to controle SUB and switch between 2 profiles

 

images:

INputs signal readback before filtering (can be done without microphone)

input signals.png

 

All range -> without -3db crossover

All Range.png

 

left filtered -> test crossover on left tweeter.

All Range left filtered tweeter.png

Edited by Luccie_007
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