Paws4Thot

Also @lol-lol - Or the scenario reverses; Lead gets t-boned, and the car is now out of action. Chase is a primary witness and going nowhere either until the Police allow them to.

I'm having real difficulty following what you think you're doing here, and when you're doing it. To adjust the clutch you should normally:- Install the new parts. Reassemble the gearbox etc. Now, and only now, adjust the clutch cable to achieve a free play of 12 to 25mm before there is any movement of the clutch assembly.

Well, given your present use case, I'd have no hesitation in using Miller oil to the correct VAG spec.

If it's just a touch-up pen, try your fiendly Skoda main stealer with the chassis number.

Because he's done the a/c refilling course and you haven't. Which means that you're breaking the law and he isn't.

Try some electrical contact cleaner first.

I've always been happy with "A for Audi", who charge about half Henry's labour rate.

It looks like a "plastic" spacer. Whether it is part of a Skoda or not I have no idea,

No you haven't; CANBus is a manufacturer level engineering decision.

Have you continuity checked the wires (not just looked at them) in both front doors?

What code reader? Have you tried the maker's Wiki?

ZF Transmissions (I mean what do they know about auto and automated manual boxes? ) recommend changing oil in these boxes about every 40_000.

Why would you "correct it"? A modern cruise control is a "speed control", not just an "engine revs control".

Likewise. IMO, before any of these systems are allowed on our roads the last test should be to have the project managers walk in front of the vehicles and see if they survive unscathed!

The "oil change after running in" is no longer considered normal practice, but for once I'd agree with your dealer and do an oil and filter change at half the interval to the first service.

"Labouring", also known as "chugging" (in English) from the noise the engine makes, is when the engine is struggling to pull the car up a hill. So there's no "never rev below these revs" speed as such, but the steeper the hill (or heavier the car) the higher the engine speed you need stop it labouring. For instance you would need to rev the engine higher to get up a given hill with 3 friends in the car than when you're by yourself. I've not reread the thread or read the article, but "running in" periods are much less restrictive than they used to be. For example, in the 1960s running in might be 1_600km at no more than 70km/h. In the 1980s my Dad's first new car said "Running in - Do not exceed 4_000 (four thousand) rpm for the first 1_600km". No problem. Also @DerekU The so-called "gear indicator", whether it be a recommended gear number or "/\" and "\/" arrows like on my sister's Honda Jazz, is basically a vacuum gauge (used to measure inlet manifold depression from atmospheric pressure) with an output of a number or an arrow rather than a pressure.

More like 4_500 for 50 minutes in the hour, dropping back to 3_000 for the other 10. Which also gives you a cruising speed at about 135km/h. Also, we'll can give you better advice if you fill in an approximate location, eg "France".

Sooooo, "Lots Of Trouble, Usually Serious" have developed a way of turning $2.3 million into lots of tyre smoke and splintered carbon fibre in about 5 seconds?

I'm not dead certain, because at least one common make of grille was available with either fogs or spots.

Firstly, does the battery light work correctly? I'm actually unclear about that.

Could be either. I'd probably know if you can do a good photo of just one of the aux lenses.

@vyllonder Have you checked the alternator control wires yet?

I suppose that's better than it "attacking" the "other car"?

Can you imagine ever getting any street cred out of saying "I drive a BYD"? Or "I've got a U9"?

My mate never looked at the tyres when he bought the car (I know). The Woosung was replaced next weekend, but the DarkSpin name survives 30 years later.