Paws4Thot

So how do they know whether the car has one or not if they don't (can't?) check?

Ah, you may still have a boost leak then.

Do you still have black smoke?

There's a competent VW dealership in Portree then.

On the assumption of North or West, how far are your from Kyle of Lochalsh?

Well, I'm now stuck without codes beyond that I'd have said "change your garage" if the old one wasn't refusing to work further on the car. Also, not asking for a postal address, but some sort of hint as to your location would help with recommending a new garage.

Trade in your wife for a less sensitive model? Ok, that seems insensitive of me but I've known other cases where person1 finds a Thripps Thunderclap uncomfortable but person2 can drive one all day, have a quick shower, and go out for dinner with friends and enjoy themself.

@xman - Thanks for that; I just couldn't face typing the explanation!

Bets that the EV bromantics either don't know or won't believe this?

That has me wondering if a speck of carbon has got into the oil pressure sender capillary. Many moons ago my dad had similar symptoms on a Cortina mk3 following an oil change, and a new sender unit solved the issue.

It's a fairly easy job, but I'd recommend fitting proper Terry Jubilee clips rather than new horseshoes.

There is an ABS sensor on every wheel. If only one tyre was (not) in the sunlight I'd expect it to be at a different pressure to the others.

Before you do anything else, does the car smoke at idle, and/or when picking up throttle off the overrun? If the answer to either of these is "yes" you likely have one or more worn and/or badly hardened valve stem seals. To expand on @sepulchrave half-@$$ed reply, to establish whether or not the piston rings are worn you need a 2 part test:- Dry compression test. Note the results of this. Add a tablespoonful of engine oil to each bore and repeat. If any cylinder gains more than 10% pressure in this second wet test, that cylinder has worn piston rings.

Basically no, unless you have reason(s) to think that planning consent was not granted (like Major Tom's family's garden spa) or that the building actually erected does not conform with the planning consent. Possibly nothing, but in the cited case above the building was demolished at the family's expense.

Like the property history WW.

I thought your issue was not having a leak in your exhaust so that the waffer thin mint caused excess back pressure?

Your car your way. But might I suggest an anti-"murdered out" finish with a full debadge, dechrome, and all trim and wheels pained the same white as the body?

That would do it yes, and you see my point about how if could look mechanically OK but be electrically FUBAR now?

Ah, you need to continuity check them with a multimeter, not just look at them.

@MCAMRA Exactly as @xman says above. If you fill in your location field in your profile, someone may be able to advise about independent VAG specialists and/or auto electricians near you.

Erratum corrected and expanded.

Deep load battery check? Alternator working? Asking because my fan once "died" and the issue was that the alternator wasn't charging due to an alternator clutch failure, so the EMS was turning off non-essential systems to keep the car mobile as long as possible.

I think a Favorit is better built than a Renault 11!

Go to a different garage.

A compression test would be irrelevant if the valve stem oil seals need replaced. Compression occurs with the valves on the cylinder which is compressing closed and the oil seals are on the top of the head, not exposed to the compression. Does the engine give blue smoke on overrun and/or first application of throttle? I'm trying to figure out whether further internal damage or oil seals are more likely from first principles diagnostics.