Stonekeeper

dont think the enyaq even has a 12v socket in the front.

7 years later...

Try unplugging the EGR valve to see if the car stays running longer than 5 minutes Got the below from AI Critical Components to Check Relay 458 (E-Box): In the engine bay fuse box, Relay 458 is the main power supply relay for the ECU. If this relay has high resistance or burnt contacts, the ECU will have enough power to "talk" to a tester but not enough "current" to actually fire injectors or hold relays closed. The "5V Reference" Collapse: If a sensor like the Camshaft Sensor or EGR Valve has an internal short that only occurs when hot, it can pull down the ECU's internal 5V rail. This causes the ECU to cut fuel and "glitch" without storing a code, as the fault occurs in the hardware power management layer before the software can register an error. Injector Loom (Common 1.9 TDI BXE Fault): The wiring loom inside the cylinder head (submerged in oil) is a notorious weak point. While it usually causes a misfire code, a short-to-ground in this loom can occasionally "trip" the ECU's safety shutdown, causing it to kill the fuel pump and injectors simultaneously to prevent damage. Recommended Next Steps The Heat Test: While the car is running, use a hair dryer to carefully heat the ECU case. If the car dies much faster than 1–5 minutes, you have confirmed an internal ECU hardware failure. The Cold Start Bypass: If you can immediately restart by jumping the fuel pump relay but the engine still won't fire (even if the pump is running), it confirms the ECU is refusing to pulse the injectors. Scope the Crank Signal: Even though the sensor is new, check the signal at the ECU pins (not the sensor) when the stall happens. If the signal vanishes there but the sensor is fine, the issue is the ECU's internal processing of that signal.

sounds like power is being cut from the ecu before a code can be recorded

Does the VCDS cut out at the same time the engine stalls Also does the rev counter move whilst cranking

Could be a good call, relays can trip when warm. This may help the OP find them all, specifically ones that supply the ecu https://www.scribd.com/document/480348716/SSP-54-Octavia-II-electrical-components-pdf

Rivian winter road trip data, I know it's a pick up truck, but imagine the cost Rapid charging in the uk?

Could you be using o for 0?

I think Kyle says at the beginning Michelin all season (cross climates uk?) tyres

A deep dive so only for those interested

Coming to the UK next year

If the funnel caught the sediment I would just fill the tank with a premium diesel fuel. Five weeks is a short time for the fuel to go off it's possible the sediment was in the jerry can when you put it in. "AI response: Since the fuel was only 5 weeks old, those grains weren't "growth" or "dirt"—they were almost certainly paraffin wax crystals" In the winter fuel stations normally sell diesel treated for winter to stop it waxing, beware of your supplier.

Van sales same place the car sales data comes from

In 2025, several used diesel models saw significant appreciation; for example, a three-year-old diesel Honda HR-V increased in value by 11.3%, while the Mercedes CLS rose by 8%. Demand for used diesels has, at times, outpaced the declining supply, creating a competitive market where dealers must pay a premium for stock, which is then passed on to consumers.

From AI Also check fuses for ABS It would be an idea to see if the car starts and runs with the ABS module disconnected too

Does your OBD reader get power (lights up) but just says "Link Error," or does it stay completely dark when you plug it in?

This ^^^^ Maybe with help from someone else pushing own on the bonnet to take some resistance out

Cheapest possible place to start and rule out: Immobiliser: lock and unlock the car and try again. Some cars if you take too long after getting in before starting the immobiliser kicks in and won't reset until you reset it that way.

The importance of a good 12v This EV ran out of traction Battery power and the systems drained the 12v before it could be put on charge. See what happened when they charged the traction battery up again and the effects of poor 12v on the management systems

My Enyaq has a 12v socket in the boot that can be permanent or not depending on the fuse position

I think sometimes the tester is just covering their back by over advising due to lack of experience where another would have better knowledge of oxidation and how bad it was. I got tyre advisories at 3.5mm which is over twice the limit and only on one part of the tyres. I do 5,000 miles a year so could be a good while before I change at 3mm across the centre 75%. I suppose it's useful for those who don't do checks themselves which is probably common nowadays

The specific code 1.1.11 (c) is technically the failure code for "excessively corroded" pipes. However, the distinction between an advisory and a failure is often a "judgement call" by the inspector based on the following: 1. The "Surface Rust" vs. "Pitting" Rule Advisory: If the corrosion is just surface rust or scale that hasn't eaten into the metal, it is usually recorded as an advisory so you can monitor it. Fail (Major): If the corrosion has caused deep pitting or the pipe's wall thickness is reduced by more than 1/3 (roughly 0.25mm), it must be failed under 1.1.11 (c). 2. Benefit of the Doubt According to the DVSA MOT Inspection Manual, if a tester is unsure whether the corrosion is severe enough to be a failure, they are instructed to give the benefit of the doubt to the vehicle owner. In these cases, they will pass the car but issue an advisory note.

There are small solar panel battery maintainers available for around £30, maybe useful if you leave it so long.