leolito

When you turn half of a century some stuff starts to look fuzzy ... promise no more OT 😁

Don't let the fact that is different rim size worry you, the important thing is the overall diameter compared to the other wheels. Well, it is also important in case of fouling steering/suspension/brake components, but I do not think is the case with the sizes considered.

Interesting about the shortening of the interval to the two year mark, then obviously if they do not open and clean the gauze filter just fluid change is partially wasted money ... I did have the fluid changed last year, around 10 months and 9k km ago. Since I do not trust much whatever was done, will get the kit and do it myself sometime soon. Same for DSG, I would not rely on 80k miles (!), max 60K, ideally, 40k. I know some people see it as a waste of lubricant, but to each its own.

he'll be back ... I enrolled on an online course for shamanic remote capabilities and vodoo mongering, the focus on "online" is on developing skills to disrupt and prevent correct functioning of not approved models, including behavior such as the traitorous escape towards another area of briskoda. First lesson: alter coded signal to disable access to the vehicle. Bap beware! YarnPrepare yourself.Predator 2 clip with quote Prepare yourself. Yarn is the best search for video clips by quote. Find the exact moment in a TV show, movie, or music video you want to share. Easily move f... Stay tuned 😁

It is high in my agenda, but I still got other things to sort out, but yes, a "personalized" map for the DSG I think it would make the driving experience much more pleasurable! There is a TVS dealer up Northeast towards the Black Sea, so will be certainly an option!

Well, certainly is not at its top condition, so expect a failure at some point. Since it is still cold where you are, maybe it can survive the summer, if we get one at all 😁 The locks... yes, it can be an electricity problem, certainly.

We have come from similar experiences, I have chosen a Superb for all these reasons plus cost and ease of maintenance and, living where I live, a lower profile which suits me in this phase of my life. There are loads information available, but without going too much in detail, engine wise there are not dramatic variations in performance and response, earlier 280s until the facelift had the valves in the exhaust, dropped afterwards. Later 280s have GPF which shoult not be so problematic as the Diesel's filter, ut this is to be yet experimented. You might have some trouble for tuning parts, and not always coding for parts match what you actually need, but this is not something it can be lived with. Biggest difference is as mentioned above the 6 vs 7 speed gear, but this is horses for courses, both have advantages and disadvantages. In any case I would drastically shorten the service intervals. The rest of the items you mention - water pump, DCC shocks - can be a problem regardless of the car spec or year.

I have a throtthle adapter, and my experience is a mixed bag. Yes, it can drastically alter engine response to the skinny pedal, which means for driving briskly you have instant get-up and go. However, this comes at the expense of a very harsh reaction from everything else in the car, that is not made to match it - in other words, suspension and body movement, engine, and especially gearbox are left behind when you set the controller in very sport/race mode. I had it on and off for a couple reasons related to warranty work, so I could observe very well car behavior, and I see the main culprit in the lethargic response is the mapping of the darn DSG. When the controller is in S/R my DSG becomes more jerky and notchy, and this is a behavior I do not like. I took it off for that reason and had the box checked, and there was nothing wrong. I suspect this happens because probably the gearbox finds the throttle input in unsync when in more aggressive modes, but so far I seem to be the only one having this symptom so most likely is driver problem 😁 Now the DSG ... in anything but "Sport", it upshifts at 1500 and downshifts at 1000. This means starting from a red light in a normal driving setting, you reach the legal speed limit in D5 in few dozens meters, and then basically you are left with driving a barge without engine control unless you rev it up, which is counterproductive, and obviously zero enging braking. I can comprenhend all the reasons for designing this logic - noise, emissions, fuel, blah blah, but from an engineering and car dynamics standpoint, is an imbecillity. Now if this was a oiler that could be more acceptable, but for a forced induction petrol engine, this is a horrible combination. Nevermind the fact the engine runs always below its optimum band, which I presume is negative for colling, fuelling, and engine components .... I have noticed its sweet spot is around 2/2.5k RPM, in fact when driving manual its response is very pleasant and active regardless of the presence of a throttle controller, or car mode, and noise and harshness are very limited. But the gearbox still .... not a problem then, flick DSG into "Sport" and here you go ... nope, as Bap and Martini said, now the engine RPM reaches 3k before upshift and 2k on downshifts - which are okay. But for the upshift this is fine only in a more spirited driving, not city use. So at the end I am using a varied approach, combining Sport mode with manual flapping, and is a drag, honestly. When I have to behave, say when Missus is on board and I need to adopt a near dormant driving style, I leave everything Normal/Sport with Normal DSG and suffer in silence. I wish I could find a way to remap the DSG to raise its shift point in all modes except Sport, but will see this later on. Sorry for the long post, but just to say the throttle controller will make you feel the car more responsive, but there are also other factors to consider .... If I had a way with the remapping of both engine and gearbox, I think it could be redundant.

Noooo 🤪 Just joking .... congrats on the new ride! Don't get lost! We still here! 😊

Great work and I like a lot your wayto describe work! I admire your tenacity, compliments! The "pin" thing should be part of the toolbox when the car is new, actually all my former Audi cars had one, and I got some every time I was going to the breakers, if I see 'em, it has been extremely valuable. It is plastic but holds up well, I broke only one in maybe 100 wheel swaps.... This item, together with the plastic "plier/clip" remover for the plastic caps of the wheel bolts, are really a treasure to have in the car at all times! I have seen how using normal pliers damages both the cap and worse, the rim!

Nice posts, and nice work! I, for one, support spending money in the way you better see fit. Lift is too short and all around you there are plenty occasions you spend money in much less useful things ....

I second Warrior above, any reputable worker should put some tangible sign of the replacement ... I have seen tags, stickers, a note on the service manual, sometimes even with a permanent marker directly over the belt cover.... in absence of any of these, assume it was not done, and prepare accordingly. The price of a belt, and by extension its replacement, it is always cheaper than to rebuild an engine .... Unfortunately in order for visually have cues of a belt in need of replacement, it has to be so destroyed that it would be a running ticking bomb. I have a vehicle to service whose belt was last made (by yours truly) around 13 years ago, but the car has run only 12k km since then. Obviously, before putting on the road again, the belt is to be replaced. I've had the cover open earlier today to get prepared, and visually there are no cracks or signs of impending disaster. These things, you cannot guess or foreplan, but act proactively and lower the risk.

I agree with the statement, I think is horses for courses. Incidentally, the wifemobile Lexus has a Mark&Levinson system again with many speakers and subs, and its sound, while good, is still lesser than the ones I mentioned above, and actually very similar to the Canton. I have a friend with a top of the line A8 D4 with a Bang&Olufsen and again, there is a "all surround" feel, but nothing to make your stomach tremble type of feel. I guess it is an actual trend to promote a more balanced, mid-range clarity type of sound, whereas older designs were aiming at a different setup, maybe?

I think this is the diagram, and I think no. 20 is the affected solenoid. https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/SUP/851/8/867/867086 Feeling guilty, and since I had to digest the dinner, I walked towards the garage and pushed the car forward, to open the lid and look at the thing, unfortunately the phone with 11% battery decided flash was a no-no so no photos. But I did see what at the end I have a twin little hook thing on both sides, which if you push it it feels resistance, and then goes down, like being spring loaded like written above. So how to test the system .... well as the seats were down since I have inside a bicycle carrier I need to put together, I said "go inside the boot and see" Ok, so first I went to the menu and activate the function, then I go inside the boot and press the remote with nonchalance .... Nothing, weird, so I extended my arm and press the button on the lid, and the boot closes. Now I realize that the stupid but SMART car would not let me use the remote since the gearbox was in neutral ... so I had to slither in between the box of the carrier and the roller, towards the rear door and from there drop to the ground like on a SAS demonstration ... in that moment I did realize the true error in having a double steakburger with fried egg and extra cheddar before these activities ... oh well. Put the car in P and restarted the exercise. Now the remote worked flawlessly. When the door opens, there is a little "ZIG" and the hook goes down, for like a fraction of a second, if you blink you miss it. I left my finger on it and it feels goes down, at the same time you hear the solenoid. The hook looks like on a plastic pin. Most likely someone not very delicate broke yours, possibily pushing the roller blind without first pressing it down to make it release the catches. But before that, try to follow my method - sans burger, better - and see if you can hear the solenoid trying to do something ....

I can't risk it I am already bothering on the torch issue ... we need to get someone else to attack 😁

I do not see that oil sump that dramatic ... I am trying to pull one from a Land Cruiser that looks way worse! If you want to recover it, is very doeable, I would not shed money for a new one unless you can see it is spilling oil visibly ... and even that, if it was a hole, it can be welded! The oil sump is not structural part of the engine its job is only to gather ... the oil 😁

Yeah, and I admit it is a pity have a feature and not use it but ... what to do? Not always you like the way things are operated, but here I see no solution except to find a way to diminish the spring force that winds the roller cover.

I like the way logiclee illustrated above the way it sounds, exactly like a lesser setup. Actually, it sounds like the HK in my P38 sans the subwoofer, which I know well since I had it off while in repair. Mine is a Midline system, no DSP, with only 3-way in the front doors, with separate speakers but no separate enclosures, and 2-way in the rear doors, same. Yet even without the sub is still punchier than the Canton. There was a Highline with more stuff, but I never had the pleasure to hear it. The Bose in my S6 C4 was absolutely superb, and this was without the plethora of speakers available now, and with a simpler single way front and rear 13/10cm, to that, and a sub, with however separate enclosures for all speakers, like their own boxes, within the door cards. It was clear but powerful at the same time, and speaker were simple paper cones ... obviously somebody spent a lot of time trying to make it sound so good. Now, besides my particular and personal taste, there are certain types of music for which a missing punch in the bass takes away a great deal of the experience. And since my musical tastes have not changed much over the years, I have listened to more or less the same stuff in all three cars, and the latter, regrettably, is the poorest in this regard. I am now upgrading my digital library to FLAC, to see if the sound quality from the source affects the way the speakers play the sound, but I have not yet gotten a significant result to see this as the culprit - Superb is the first car I use digital audio, before I have been always on CDs, originals also.

Don't rush ... it is too important of an expense to chance it! The right car will come ... I spent months looking until mine came, exactly as I wanted it!

until the moment it exploooooods 😁😆

I would not have high hopes for cheap aftermarket, these are expensive parts in any case, both new and secondhand! Try some breaker, maybe from a crashed car you can get a unit in good condition and save some money.

I think the release levers you are referring are the ones to drop the seats. There is not button, lever or command to manually activate the retraction, only an option to enable/disable in the menu, I think it was in car settings, I can check next time I am with the car, same as in the luggage compartment. I have this feature but I actually disabled it because it snaps/rolls back quite sharply and I am concerned it will not last//, I am a bit smoother in rolling the thing back ... call me a fool, but I fear the stupid roller costs an arm and a leg....

Dimming AND dipping. Apparently, "flagship" in English at Solihull was not translated properly in Czech at Mladá Boleslav ... 😁 Mine stops when I leave the stupid switch in one position, left or right, dont remember, which ... try all of them and sometimes it wakes up again! I also have the Martini "upgrade" 🙄

Starting by the fact I do consider the Canton in my FL fairly "underwhelming" in what they managed to make it worse?? 😁 I wish the bass would be booming like it should, for example! Oh well... The torch loss is a silly thing, I hope Aperture someday will take mercy and resolve 😆 Do you have a code for that TSB so I can go bother my uninterested dealer bef end of warranty? Thanks!

Quoting the above, do not use options as a reference guide for FL models. Some have it, some don't. The changes are pointed out by travs above, front end is unmistakable (uglier in my view, I liked the big fogs), as well as the 6 to 7 speed change.