leolito

I am not a fan of deleting backboxes, the amount of noise more than sound in noticeable. Removing some component in the middle of the exhaust line is more appropriate, but in any case you increase noise and possibily inducing droning, I actually stopped years ago experimenting with this.

I would not think this could be a problem .... A note for all those with the swiwel tow, make sure you drop it once in a while, especially now after the bad season, and spray some oil or at least WD40/grease in the hinge mechanism! Also, I've notice some rust pitting on mine, although it is greased and with a rubber protector. I am thinking to create some sort of "cover" for that hole, all sorts of crap go in there ....

I think you'll be fine. This is a reasonably light load. Compliments on the Super Seven! 😉 I towed a Dacia Spring on a two-axle trailer is it was fairly effortless, I used DCC on Sport to minimize a bothering "shunt" that I never had on my earlier haul-car ... but being a P38 Range Rover is much heavier and with separate ladder chassis ...

I would say it is not somuch in the mileage by itself, but in the "mix" urban/extraurban. While in the open my 280 is brilliant also fuel economy wise, in the city is is chugging fuel at an amazing rate for such "brilliant" engine, with numbers that reach 13-16l/100 which is not economical at all. Weird I was expecting it would be more efficient, but it is not, no matter the driving.

All is well, when it ends well! 😁

Interesting, I had some of your troubles but not all, and in random order. For example, restart from last vs start from the beginning, I have no idea what or where it decides to do one or the other. Totally random. I solved the issue putting a tune I like as first, so I do not get bothered I need to listen to it endessly until I select something else 😁

All nice news, eh? 😁

Well, for what regards the reparability, they are as any other alloy rim, so filler and welding if needed can be made. The problem comes with the "shining" surface, which requires a specific workshop that makes "diamond cut" finish. Unless you come across the (very expensive) tooling, I do not think you can DIY that. A damaged rim like that would need to be, for example, welded/filled, then painted, then goes to the diamond cut, then on top the transparent lacquer. It is not cheap, I seem to recall 2.5/3x times the cost of a "normal" wheel spray, but this to be confirmed by some local shop in your area .... Also, wheel needs to be very straight for the machining, so make sure they go first for check. Usually the same shop that makes the diamond cut will inspect them beforehand, at least that they did for me, and for free - I had a set of Pentas made for an old MB.

Well, you are in a squeeze ... while your rock will play on USB, check if you have a port inside the armrest between the front seats. Mine can play "normal" USB only from there, or the USB-C by the ashtray but I do not have an USB-C so I use it only for the phone while in Android Auto. The two ports to the rear seats are only for charging, and unfortunately are only USB-C as well. Basically, this car has made me re-arrange my entire approach to communications and music. I spent my life listening to CDs in the various cars and never had a problem with that, now I got to deal with FLAC and other stuff, but is practical for going around with much more. I am not a fan of spotify or such, I like to choose my music and despise burning battery and connectivity in streaming, nevermind I consider it harfmul to spend long time inside the cockpit flooded by transmission waves ..... I am slowly passing all the CDs to digital library and from these to flash drives and use those. I thought of gtting a larger drive but I have a bad memory of losing stuff due to "accidents", so I rather divide by genres (I'd put your prog rock together with harder acts, but leave pop/easy listening in the "family usb drive" 😁) this was you can swap easily the collections ... is like having "a collection of CDs" instead of "single" CDs ... is okay 😉

I know more than one will regard this madness, but I do give the wheels a proper clean up after each season, and before taking them to rebalance I do clean them up, remove all othe old weights, I have a blunt kitchen knife I use to scrape all the old glue without scratching the rims, and finally remove all the stones with a thin screwdriver. Sounds overkill, but I have also found this soothes me, so is like therapy without paying a doc's fee.😁

I may go down that route, a small spacer, but will see. For now I just fitted the 18s and must post pictures. Pads, travs knows, I will be getting what he is getting when the time comes. Software, mine still original, but most likely will use TVS together with the DSG remap. Tires, how do you find the Hankook? I have the same Vertus, but on my wife's ex-car (long story), a simple Micra K12, and I am fairly disappointed on their performance after less than three years are already presenting cracks in the carcass, between the threads, and general loosing grip. Considering that this is 80hp with a 4-speed auto only used in the city, is frankly a failure in my book....

Great advice above about the turbo modifications and whatnot. Heed! I have seldom noticed that changes to the hardware actually increase the driveability and therefore contribute to the general "usability" of any given car. Yes, you can increase performance, being faster off the line, or up above a certain speed, but in general, messing around with the turbo will result for sure in: a) change in the boost threshold, generally moving upwards the baseline; b) change in the lag response, with varyng results; c) a general disruption to the general balance of the components. All this is not negative per se, is a matter of personal choice when choosing to mess around with the car, your personal property after all. But if you end up with something more enjoyable sometimes, and less enjoyable most of the time, then probably was not a good idea to start with ... ask me how I know 😁☠️ I think you could start work with software and take it from there 🙂

Mine engine coolant reservoir is much darker, what could be the reason? I will take a picture of it ...

Yes the new type of gas this 1234 whatever, costs an arm and a leg compared to the older R134

wow ... all is working fine now?

Well in this case, the manual function always remain, this is a "convenience feature" but if it failes or is it deactivated, does not harm or impact anything ..... Great piece of info and hope this stays in the archive for future reference! 😉

I have also experienced problems in the most infavourable situations, and this also change the battery at the first sign of impending failure. The "bother" to loss a day, week, or month of "battery usage" by extending its agony, seldom exceeds the "bother" to have at minimum carry around cables, and as we all have experienced at some point, find ourselves in trouble when least practical... As to force the test: take a tester, measure battery, watch it as it cranks and starts the engine, then load it up with A/C, lights and some other heavy consumer. If it drops notceably or oscillates, its ability is compromised ...

Are you making lassos with the remaining wire? 😁

If you can lift the hook/pin without resistance, then there is no more connection between the actuator and whatever is supposed to actuate ... can you actually hear it moving? In a quiet environment is clearly audible. It would not be strange for both to have failer, but in that case a look at the electrics would help.

Expanding the above, besides the "visual fill", it would be interesting to consider when a wider wheeltrack can add a meaningful improvement in handling, like to justify adding spacers of x/xx mm to compensate. For examples, "S", "M" and "Sportline" models of bygone era had wider tracks - especially at the front than their original counterparts, ranging from 3 to 8 mm, noticeable especially by the enlarged front fenders. Anyone that had used a SIII without and then with say 10mm spacers, could be judged a noticeable change in the driving dynamics of the car?

When you turn half of a century some stuff starts to look fuzzy ... promise no more OT 😁

Don't let the fact that is different rim size worry you, the important thing is the overall diameter compared to the other wheels. Well, it is also important in case of fouling steering/suspension/brake components, but I do not think is the case with the sizes considered.

Interesting about the shortening of the interval to the two year mark, then obviously if they do not open and clean the gauze filter just fluid change is partially wasted money ... I did have the fluid changed last year, around 10 months and 9k km ago. Since I do not trust much whatever was done, will get the kit and do it myself sometime soon. Same for DSG, I would not rely on 80k miles (!), max 60K, ideally, 40k. I know some people see it as a waste of lubricant, but to each its own.

he'll be back ... I enrolled on an online course for shamanic remote capabilities and vodoo mongering, the focus on "online" is on developing skills to disrupt and prevent correct functioning of not approved models, including behavior such as the traitorous escape towards another area of briskoda. First lesson: alter coded signal to disable access to the vehicle. Bap beware! YarnPrepare yourself.Predator 2 clip with quote Prepare yourself. Yarn is the best search for video clips by quote. Find the exact moment in a TV show, movie, or music video you want to share. Easily move f... Stay tuned 😁

It is high in my agenda, but I still got other things to sort out, but yes, a "personalized" map for the DSG I think it would make the driving experience much more pleasurable! There is a TVS dealer up Northeast towards the Black Sea, so will be certainly an option!