leolito

Interesting .... so to preserve if is paramount to use proper leather care products, all compatible with PU leather? If the clearcoat goes, it is paintable again? I've had had interiors remade by a leather treatment company, mxed results, mostly good, but then some were very difficult to rejuvenate ...

I believe all TSIs are chain-driven, not belt. I would not consider a 1.5 engine on such as large car as the Superb, one of the reasons for abandoning the PHEV option. There are several posts about retrofitting towbars, from the OE and recode the car to aftermarket. It tows well.

Tomorrow I am using the "other" car ... will try to remember for Sunday

Yeah, actually I follow you faithfully like a little pup, because I know I might get into some of this later! Luckily for me, I am on reduced rations until I free some availability once I sell some stuff ... so for now I am gathering info ☺️

What nice anecdotes! Graham, Colin, it is a pleasure to read and let me mind wonder and wander about those things ... That Vanden Plas, looks magnificent! Years before I was born, my mom recalls my granpa had an Argentinian-built Siam DiTella, which I came to understand later on it was a licensed Riley, which looks very similar to the VP in the photo.... nice link on the facility. The Isetta was Italian stroke of genius ... great little car. Today fairly out of place. Incidentally, there is an electric car called Microlino which is very based on the Isetta. A friend that has an electric car showroom has a couple on display, and it feels really like a toy of a different age. Unfortunately, the quality is very very low. Already bits and pieces of the trim are broken and awaiting replacement, and today when I quipped "when do we go for a ride" he answered "when I get it to work, some software is failing" Oh well

Could be indeed a grommet or something missing in the firewall in the pedal area, or above it, hidden by the dash. I know it sounds madness to anyone not practical with solving shaize, but can you remove all trim under the steering wheel and A-pillar left side, and see in that case together with the 'cold' you also feel a draft of air moving in? I would get the footrest out too, just careful with the stupid spring clip of the hood lever that jumps out. Then drive around and "feel the air" ... put shorts - I am not joking, sometimes is terribly difficult to 'feel air'. Another option in line with the suggestion of travs above would be lay down in the footwell area, and have someone else drive ... but cannot imagine how that would be 😝 Most funny and ironic is that I bought a "new" car and joined here to start to stay away from youngtimer and oldtimer crap and associated continous faffing around getting the hands dirty ... it seems they are out to get me wherever I go 🤪

Ah ... if the bolt mating surface is also different yes, then all bets are off. No sense mangling the mount, very difficult to replicate the new face. I strongly NOT recomment going the subframe out-in routing just for this part. It is a lot of things to do, and many can go bad shape afterwards. I do not know the specifics of the Superb, but same job done on other cars means suspension out, steering arms, which means alignment afterwards, support engine separately, some cars have the steering rack mounted on the subframe ... too much. Pity. I will go for option ...2 - I just wait. I am not with too much time to faff around with this either so ... oh well. However, they might never make a specific variation unless sufficient interest. I will still get under mine and look at it.

No, those holes could not generate such temp difference. I've driven my Range Rover for long periods with various parts of internal trims removed, for various reasons, and yes I have felt cold spots, but not such a massive difference .... Could you have some blocked ventilation tube or something and therefore "missing" that particular area? I had years ago the opposite problem, on extreme heat on high fans with A/C on, I would get hot air under my feet, only there. The P38 Range Rover has two fans, at each end of the dashboard, and one central combined heater/AC box. I could not figure out how this was happening, as the flap motors were working properly and moreover the flap from the fan also, and the lower end had no flap of its own. After like an entire summer of nightmare, on the next rebuild of the interior I've found the internal duct from fan to heater box had come loose, which meant air from the fan - coming from outside, before the box, was not entering the circuit, and thrown instead on the padal area..... so I had been running with half-AC 🙄

Shocking! I think I will not wait until 60k km to do mine ...

If it happens after the use of the window, the 'spring-like' noise could be related to the window mechanism. When the weather allows, you could try to use the window at different levels of opening, and see if the effect continues. Sorry to sound so "non technical" but sometimes diagnostics are a nightmare ...

Sorry to hear of this mishap ... so I see both sems to be roughly triangular in shape, but JR's "lower end" in the photos (I had written "lover end" before correcting 🤪) seems straight while yours has got some indent or locking tab of sorts ... indeed looks closer to V2. What is this mount made of? Think it could be machined to remove material, to allow for the "recess" to fit tight to the part? Yeah, it would not be a direct fit part, but .... I will try to find a moment to look at mine.

Due to an "official checkup" at the dealer, just an administrative thing, I wanted to have them checked the DSG that I experienced sometime some "jumping" or abrupt gearchange, and also the start/stop a little grumpy, which I mentioned some post above this one. To avoid any controversy, I removed the pedal box and due to a number of reasons been driving since without it, at least 500km. So now to compare, I get the feel that, while laggy, is not so much the throttle control the problem, but the absolute impossible set up of the DSG, especially for this car. Now the dealer found no isuses whatsoever, and at 52k km I am still a bit short of a fluid change which I was advised at 60k km/4 years, so problems are excluded, so is just the way this thing was programmed to work. I noticed flipping from D to S in the same stretch of road at the same average speed and throtthle input, in all modes "Normal" you might find yourself in D5 at 1100/1200RPM, where adequately rapid response is nil, versus being in S3 at close to 2000RPM which is more than reasonable for a revvy turbocharged petrol engine, albeit a couple hundred less with same throttle input would be desirable ... Unfortunately, there is no way in between, so now I am spending most of the time changing modes and using the paddles to correct. What a drag 😁 Incidentally, the fuel consumption is the same, as now the car does almost not see the dreadful 'eco' mode which I need to find a way to erase forever. Engine braking is also welcome as it reduces dependence on the brakes ... and I have noticed almost nothing of the 'jerkiness' I reported above. So now I will give it one mor try to the pedal box, to see if really the most bothering thing is the throttle control, or the DSG setup. I suspect the latter.

So, how is it with the 'new dogbone'? And so since we are both with the same car I should directly seek a V1 version ... I look at the dealer you used and I closed quickly the site ... too much nice stuff 😜

This above is one of the most bothering things on modern cars ... most components are as crappy as they can happily get away with, but some reason it seems to be a consensus among the industry that certain connectors must be made with a overengineed approach that makes easy work an impossibile task! Either they seem glued in place, or the locking tab is positioned OPPOSITE of the side you are reaching (this one happens to be one my favs), or the locking tab is unclear why in some is "push inwards then pull" in another ones is "pull outwards and pull out" ... may the designers be cursed forever! My absolute preferred one, the locking in between the two connectors end being SO strong that the tab that holds the assy in place slips out or breaks, therefore the entire combo gets to hang loose somewhere ... if you are VERY lucky they fall more into some innard where extra sweating and a balanced alternating lithany and cursing seems the only way to get around .... I used to think whoever designed these things was an imbecil. Now I just think is someone who models in a CAD with minimal training and motivation, zero engineering motivation (for various reasons, be cost cutting, ecology, etc.), and especially who has never turned a scredriver in his/hers/its (now we got 'X' genders also) miserable life, considers getting hands dirty an abominable relic of the past, but especially, thinks that just because is a "newer" approach, is always "better". I wish them a failure in whatever crap they drive in the middle of a stormy rainy cold night, where they can learn the true extent of their actions .... 😝

You are the man! I will start searching .... will post results once I get there!

ah ah ....creaks and clunks are sign not only of a problem with the age of the frame, but its mileage as well 🤪 I think any soft wrapping will make a mess there ...in any case I do not have an electronic, only the lever to pull down the ball, or release its lock. So a hand always get dirty might as well take an extra moment and lose the cover ...

Thanks to clarify that 225/50 would fit, I've used same aspect ration but on 17s on my previous Ur-S and it was very decent compromise. I am not a fan of very "tucked" wheels, but I do not like them too much out either, they tend to dirty the car a lot. Now the question is that the Kodiaq rim is 'silver' on ET43 vs the 'brilliant silver' on ET45 of the Karoq ... mumble mumble ...those 2mm might be too much 🤔

I apologize for the brevity - after all it was an "oldish" post - and I clarify after reading the useful link, stabilizer hitches are not allowed at my latitudes. For these it makes sense not to grease, since they work in a particular way, similar to my bike-carrier (Italian-made), and also my junk-carrier (UK made) do not recomment a greased ball for the same reason, and in that case, I tend to wipe clean so the clamps have greater grip on the ball. But for all other purposes, both for my small >750kg and the larger car-hauling twin axle, I do use grease. Just on the basis of protection against wear and rust is sufficient. These are expensive things to replace, and extremely dangerous if they were to fail. Yes, greasing stuff might sound antiquated, but it is part of the normal prevention of friction wear between metals. With me, at the question why they don' do it, most answer they do not want to have dirty pants .... About the "hole", I was thinking to make a plastic cover with some velcro, it is enough out of sight so it would not be ugly, and it can be easily popped out when needed. While would not be a totally enclosed result, I guess would be enough to minimize dirt ingress in the tow-hole (lke the way this sounds!). I tend to regularly spray everything that gets in the way of the elements ... I guess I am also antiquated myself 😜

It's been a while, but did have to scrub older towballs clean once in a while to remove the rust, before re-greasing. Yeap, I am one of those who love a greased ball ... 😜 Many pants and hands I got greased over time, but oh well, part of the job. If the rust is minimal, scotchbrite is enough. Obviously keeping the ball greased lowers the chance of rust, but from time to time it should be cleaned up, as grease tends to attract dirt which is abrasive as well. So, clean the ball to a shine, the grease again. Sounds like a sex education commercial lol If the towball did not come with a protection - mine in the Superb did not - any cheap rubber cap is sufficient, cost is minimal, and does not bother when it is stowed. As for the mechanism, the Superb is the first retractable I own, all my others are or were fixed. I move the mechanism in and out once every few weeks, especially now in the ugly weather, and just spray it liberally with WD40.

I think the rim protection would also depend on the width of the rim. I resurrected another thread on the subject, due to my dilemma to what to do for mine 18s ...

Well, on the above post I said 'there were months ahead' now the months are gone ... time to start add another expense and think summer rubber. I am set on putting 18s, and I like the fact now the 'Trinity' model is available, albeit from other models, not Superb. Will they fit? I would really like polished finish, like the 19s that came with the car ... i think is the "brushed" finish, called. This is from Karoq, comes in 7Jx18 ET45. https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/57a0714988z8-aluminium-rim-18-trinity-skoda-31824.html https://www.kopacek.com/skoda/wheels/trinity-18-original-skoda-autoas-4pcs-set-of-rims This is from Kodiaq, comes in 7Jx18 ET43 https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/565071498d8z8-aluminium-rim-18-trinity-skoda-30306.html This model 'Turini' I do not know where it comes from, but I am afraid ET51 pushes more in although is 7.5J as opposed to the other ones, so it should compensate. https://www.kopacek.com/skoda/wheels/turini-18-original-skoda-autoas-4pcs-set-of-rims I also think is only painted and not brushed like the ones above. Pity there are no better photos, will have to look at adverts hoping some car has them fitted and see how they look in reality. Opinions, thoughts? Will be able to fit 225 or 235 in 50 ? I know some mount 245/45 but this looks too wide for my taste ... Thanks for the help 🙂

Also here in southern latitudes - well, not so "south" as JR 😜 - 245s are cheaper. The op should go look at 235/50×18. That's the size I run on my summer tyres ..... I am inclined to /50 on 18s for mine, unsure if on 225 or 235 though. I do not like too wide tires, I got too much tramlining on the crappy roads that are here ...

Sanatate! You are preparing for summer and we here wait for a "siberian cold"wave! 😬 In any case, I should also start to get ready ....

I know is nothing important, but I hitched a ride in my woman's order for temu for some junk and I added the battery box cover ... for like 5 euro 😜 Fitted and is tight enough. I got also the cap/funnel for the washer, but looks very rubberish and not hard plastic as in the photos. Nevertheless will try it and see if it works. I wish I had time and availability for more relevant and nicer upgrades, but for now the Superb will have to soldier on as it is, until I get rid of other things in my garage/and in my life and free up availability 😔

Yes, good memory! The driver's electric adjustment was, and by extension is, a very rare option, seldom seen.