BlueWagon

Looks like peeling paint on the roof (turret). Should be warranted if within warranty period from factory. A body shop or panel beater would be able to repaint the roof. No need to replace anything, just repaint / respray that panel.

You probably did a minuscule amount of damage but I wouldn't worry about it. Plus it's done now. Same as when you do a really hard stop, you undoubtedly damage the tyres and wear the brake components etc but once won't be a worry. Every week, yeah, I would worry about that, but not once.

Maybe a loose fixture somewhere. The ticking didn't sound all that regular to me so more like a loose cam cover clip than the belt itself. Maybe a loose tool or something sitting around the engine. I've found a few sockets and spanners in car engine bays before. Left from previous works.

So if you lift off just a bit does the rpm drop off or stop rising, or do you have to release the pedal all the way?

I think he means when he holds his food steadily on the Accelerator pedal, above 2500 rpm the rpm keeps climbing. I think it's just a gimic of the drive by wire system. Can you just lift your foot a bit once the rpm is where you want it? Does it do the same on the road? Often free reving an engine you don't need much throttle to get the revs up, so a tiny movement of the throttle would increase the revs alot. It is much more damped on the road due to the load on the engine. Also, many drive by wire systems dampen the throttle response at low speeds or in low gear to make it smoother. You notice it alot when you loose the speedo input and its jumpy as he'll at low speed

There was an engine (Mini or Rover) on the Barum Engines YouTube channel where the flywheel bolts go into the oil filled gallery on the rear main bearing or into the oil pan maybe. I can't recall exactly. Without the bolts it passed oil. With bolts not sealed it weeped. It does happen...

Yeah, but it may be that other things like wheel alignment and the like are slightly damaged, it's just the CV joint is the one which shows up at higher speed, being the moving part. Not all wheel alignments are equal. Sometimes they only measure what can be adjusted. For example some places only measure toe in on solid axel vehicles as there is no regular adjustment for camber and caster. If the wheel is out of alignment in the vertical sense, the cv joint may be flexing more than its counterparts so causing vibration at high speed.

Sounds like the garage needs to scan with more upmarket scanner. Does the engine light come on BEFORE it dies or when it is sputtering? Almost seems like an electrical connector failing intermittently. Loose fuse or relay which is effected by softening or expansion of plastic with application of engine heat?? I guess some places don't have the top notch scanner It sounds like 1) some sensor failing as it warms up. 2) fuel starvation so I'd be cracking the fuel cap next time it dies (or drive home with cap off) 3) some electrical connection failing as it warms up. Very hard to pin point if not scanning a code, but you could try dousing the engine with cool water and trying to restart when it dies. Focus on sensors etc. The idea is that you cool them down and that replicates the waiting 10 min. Once you get this to work, try cooling different sensors and through process of elimination work out what one is the culprit.

When you say it conked out, describe in detail what happens. Eg, does it splutter, does the temp go up, does it crank over afterwards? Is the engine light on? Is it the fuel cap sealing too tightly/breather blocked. When it conks out, try opening the fuel cap. Need more details?

There is no temp signal (for whatever reason). So on order to ensure the best chance of NOT overheating, the ECU commands the fans to run. Better to run cold than overheat. Seems like a smart redundancy move to me. Like when early ecus, and probably modern ones loose a valid knock sensor reading they retard ignition timing so much that pre-ignition is extremely unlikely. Again, fail safe redundancy built in. That's my take on why old mate's fans are running.

I've personally seen it happen on Toyota Landcruisers and a few other makes too. The temp guage read lower than normal after a momentary overheat. Upon stopping we found the coolant was no longer occupying the top half of the engine. Guage read slightly lower than normal. Motor was roasting hot. Also on a Mazda one time after they hit a roo and punctured the radiator. They continued to drive (as temp guage was reading low) with no coolant. They quickly had an overheating condition which led to a smoked engine. All this time, no indication of over temp on the guage. So yeah, the theory does play out in practice.

No coolant = temp sensor doesn't read a high temp cause it's not sitting in hot water. If the temp guage isn't working but the engine definately gets up to temp, Id think your issue is very much related to the guage and the wiring and the plugs into ECU may be the fault. The car simply can't read its temp so runs fans to make sure it's not overheating.

How much did it take to refill? Was it just the coolant reservoir which was empty or the entire system? You may have air in the system if it got low enough. I'd not be driving far until you got it sorted. If you run it out of coolant you'll do serious damage to the engine If you're not mechanically minded it may be the garage for you my friend. A good look around the engine bay with a torch should locate the leak though. Especially if you remove the lower cover and look from below with torch

Is the engine actually getting warm? Hop out and feel it. Should be too hot to hold hand in head or engine block. You say the guage doesn't work, but it may be reading correctly but the engine is so cold (from fans running constantly) that it never reads above its low mark. Maybe a thermostat problem on the fan side. Can you unplug then fans and drive with them unplugged? What happens then? Maybe the coolant error is due to the system thinking the coolant is empty because its not reading a high enough temp.

20 min with low coolant alert. You're game. I think it's maybe a better idea to stop and check it (top up with water if needed). What was the temperature showing? With coolant low? Sometimes, if coolant is too low, the temp will also read low, as the sensor is no longer in coolant. Probably not the case here but plenty of motors have been trashed by drivers pushing on after overheat and suddenly a lower than normal temp reading. I'd be checking for any air locks and be cycling the heater on and off a few times with engine running to help remove any air. Keep an eye on coolant level, but I'd be curious to know where the coolant went after it was low on NY day. Must have a leak right. You need to find the leak me thinks

You might be surprised. Check out the high Mileage post. I'm at 294K km, so 183K miles Seems to be going strong

Looks like failed slave or master cylinder to me. Or loss of fluid. Can you check the fluid level? It looks like the slave or master cylinder piston is staying in the pressed in state. Could be a failed clutch thrust bearing too. That may have been the squeal you heared when pressing the clutch before. Does the clutch actually work? Eg what happens when you put it into gear? Do this carefully as it may grind or jump forward a bit

Can you describe in more detail the over temp situation. How quickly did the temp get up to red? And how quickly the coolant warning light went out after stopping? Was the engine still running when you stopped and was it running while you waited for it to cool down? It sounds a bit like an air lock in the system. Can you cycle the heater on and off a bit to get any air out of there. Maybe do this with the coolant tank lit open and engine running (not too hot obviously). That might get the air moving to the tank where it should be. Then recheck level when COLD.

Sounds like a fuel starvation issue. I'd be replacing the fuel filter and filling up with premium fuel and see how that goes.

Engine: 1.4 TSI CZDA Type: 2017 Estate Mileage: 183,000 M Cambelt changed X times 0 as far as I know Manual or Auto dq200 DSG Gearbox oil changed X times 0 Any other major work done? Not that I know of....just maintenance

It sounds like it had lost oil pressure when the knocking began. Was the oil light illuminated? I think the 15 min of driving with the knocking engine might be the downfall here. Maybe it would have been pertinent to stop and check it out... Did they say what had actually happened? Was there any oil in the engine or was there a big mess under the bonned. Maybe the oil filter came loose or the sump plug fell out. Even an obstical punctured the sump. If it were the oil filter or sump plug you may have recourse on whoever serviced it last. I would investigate that as a priority. I don't think there is much blame on the brand at all. No engine will live long with no oil pressure.