BlueWagon

Is it actually the fan blowing the air or just the pressure caused by driving faster? Sounds like a loose connection, maybe a cold solder in a model. Probably need to tap or wriggle a bunch of connections while parked up to find the culprit.

From what temp to what new temp I'd expect a drop of 5-10 egrees pretty normal Bit surprised the guage shows it but....I thought they were pretty sticky around 90 degrees

Is it really that hard to remove? My petrol one takes about 3 minutes without needing even a jack. Just reach under and undo the torx screws

I don't think you need a bigger oil cooler. You need to refurbish the radiator. Then the coolant will be able to cool the oil more readily

Fair doos Belt idler bearing gone bad.....

Next time it does it, try reving it a bit and see if that helps. How long does it run for? Maybe the timing on the start button is a bit off and it only just cranks for long enough. Presume it's a push button start job. Try holding button down or key in start position for a bit longer??

Doubt a compression issue would be as intermittent as described. I'd think fuel pressure or loose /broken wire connection on something or dirt in crank angle sensor or something like that

What do you call the dash cam....4th party....ha ha Glad you got it sorted

I suspect it will be a very minor bend, not likely visible to naked eye. It may show up in a balancing process but not likely to be cost effective. Do you know how the wheels got buckled?

Not really sure what you are worried about. The rust is just where the pad doesn't touch the rotors. It's just steel, it will rust. The whole lot rusts, but the pad wears the rust away in the part where it contacts the rotor. Why would you expect to see a change? It's not like your pad has increased its contact area. The wear on the disk is nothing to do with the rust. Brand new rotors will rust in the shop if they weren't coated in light oil

Ac belt slipping, or more likely the ac clutch slipping. Maybe over gassed or change to High pressure switch....

Mmmm...maybe a big hit there once in the past. Mmmm...points to the driveshaft maybe... I'd say with a buckled wheels a bent driveshaft may be the cause

Brake system hardly a natural environment.... Plenty of options of snake oil on the net too...I'd be wary

Is it when cold or warm? Has the car been sitting for a while when this happens or randomly occurring? I think maybe a fuel pressure issue due to fuel leaking back and letting air into the system somehow.

What about 2000 rpm in other gears? If no, then more likely final drive than engine. Same if no vibration in neutral at 2100 rpm as asked above. Maybe it's just how buzzy the diesel is.

One could also argue that seeing as condensation is generally fresh, demineralised water, it won't be conductive, so won't show up in a conductivity test. You need ions, so from salt or corrosion products to see the moisture as a conductivity reading, and without knowing the TDS and the composition of those ions, it's a pretty random number. Personally I'd just change the brake fluid from time to time.

Did it look good straight after they changed the fluid? Maybe they did change the fluid in the reservoir but didn't flush the lines

Can you give any more info? Does it happen every time,? What about accelerate more or less? What happens if you rev the engine in neutral etc?

Dirty or corrosion on terminals, either at battery ot where they attach to starter motor or engine/body

Can you use the hose to direct water to specific areas. And what did you find? Did water go in? Where were you hosing when that happened? My guess is either a windscreen leak or the air dam at the bottom of the windscreen is overflowing due to blocked drain holes. Can you direct the hose at the windscreen to confirm? Also, when did the leak start? Had any work been done before? Eg new windscreen, new heater core etc?

Right

So I had a T belt change recently....at 310,000km. I'm pretty sure it was the original. Looked reasonable still but no idea if the idlers were a bit done. Seemed like a good thing to do at that mileage. I reckon 300K is a good run. Bearing in mind my Landcruiser has a 150K interval.

I would 100% think this is the case. Cools fine under 130....over that the cooling demand is higher, so you see a rise in temp. Get the radiator refurbished or renewed. I had a car where anything over 120 or uphill would cause the temp to rise. Got the radiator rodded and it was all good.

Agree. I'd run it for a bit until your mate gets back from holidays at least. Id just replace the clutch when it starts to slip regularly under normal driving. Next time it slips, try lifting the pedal a bit. Might do nothing but may allow it to release the throwout bearing a bit more

Reeks of quality....