BlueWagon

Surely a fault is present. Maybe need a more sophisticated code reader to get it. I can't imagine its a complex issue if it suddenly happened while driving at low speed and you have compression still. The no spark suggests wiring or plug undone somewhere. I'd say if you can get a decent electronic diagnosis it will show the fault. Eg get a live feed of engine parameters while cranking. Maybe crank angle sensor is simply failed or wire broken or unplugged. Or, engine immobiliser has somehow kicked in

The person on the phone probably saw that it is a non serviceable item (regarded as a lifetime of engine belt) and ASSUMED it was a chain. Probably an easy mistake to make if you don't know engines well, or Are trying to assure the customer it is fine. I'd agree with them, at 43K it's probably aok for another 150K. The belts are pretty good and in alot of markets, the same engine is Inspection at 240K km and every 30K after.

I think it's more a Mileage thing. The belt is probably fine for ages. The timing belt tensioner and idler is probably the weak link in these, but again, more a Mileage thing. If it were me, I'd inspect it and leave it alone. Inspection on CHPA engine is a 10 min job. Just pop the cover off and look closely as you rotate the engine. I'd replace the water pump though. That will be a problem if it leaks badly.

Because you are mostly cruising on the motorway.

Because the tank is full of air....not coolant. The prongs probably detect coolant conductivity which the coolant is alot more conductive than air. Because the tank is full of air, air likely come out of the cooling system as the coolant circulation happens. When you open the cap, the pressure of the air is released to the atmosphere, so the coolant comes back into the tank. The air pressure in the tank had been holding it down in the engine and other pipes. Coolant tank now has coolant in it, so warning goes off. I'd say this is the issue. I'd keep topping it up as needed Question: Does the coolant tank show low in the morning when the car is cold? Next time you get home, have a look at the level, see if it comes up overnight as the air in the tank cools and contracts a bit.

I think it's this one G055512 is just gear oil for the DQ200 Plenty of info on here to check that though.

That doesn't make sense....the coolant flowed into the tank but went out the hole in the bottom.... Do you mean it came out the cap? What did the mechanic say about the coolant levels?? Does your heater still get hot? If so, then he hasn't bypassed that. Not really understanding why you think he bypassed something but won't admit it. Test the heater I guess. That will confirm. As for the low coolant, I'd be asking the guy why it's so low. Maybe it is just a bit of trapped air comming out. Is it still low now? What happens if you opened the cap now.

So did the mechanic fix the issue or is it still building pressure. I doubt a mechanic would steal Hoses. Are you sure they aren't on the other side of the firewall? As in the passenger side. Also, wouldn't there be open connections where the Hoses went onto? Can you see that? Maybe google the engine bay or look for cars for sale with a pic under the hood

If you switch on the AC, does the fan come on? Maybe coolant temp not high enough.

A quick and dirty maybe 2-3K. Maybe a bit cheaper if you just want the lower parts painted black. But the rust will be back within 12 months. Rust comes from inside the panels, not the outside. For a good fix, double the price, and it will be back within 24 months. I'd say just keep it and either do it yourself or don't.

You'd probably have to bleed the air out. Might happen automatically when it primes. Just make sure all the lines and the filter housing, particularly on the clean side of the filter are scrupulously clean. Don't fill the filter with diesel when youinstall it either. Needs to be actually filtered through the filter.

Never seen a torx strip when using the right sized tool. Best design by far. You. May be able to grip the outside of the screw with a small Stilton, but probably need to remove the filter body from the car and do it on the bench

I reckon a correct sized torch would have been more appropriate. Why did you not use the torx?

They want to offer a whole lot more than that. Could potentially get it welded but it will always be pretty weak. If the rest is good I'd offer maybe 40% of what they are worth.

I have had error messages from driving on an uneven road surface. Likely related to the different rotation speeds of the wheels. If be considering where you were driving at the time, eg were 2 wheels on the grass or on roadworks or something like that. Maybe even a slightly larger crown on a street. I get mine if I put the wheels up on the crown of a dirt road (to increase the ground clearance).

Mine doesn't reset. Can't really help more than that sorry

I think you answered your own question... At the back, low down. Look there and you will find it. I'd suggest cleaning the engine well then checking once you have driven a bit.

Maybe the matrix does have flow all the time, but I think having the temp set to hot but the fan OFF would be fine. Every cooling system Ive filled I have left the heat up high and just have the fan off. You won't get much cooling with fan off. No idea why people turn it up full blast when trying to bleed system.

Sounds reasonable then. Service history is over rated really. Condition would mean alot more to me when something is out of warranty. Obviously it has been serviced or it would be dead already. Seems a good deal to me

That's a big difference. Maybe the man with a van is not understanding the complexity of the job. Has he / she done one of these before? Suspect it will be harder to get a warranty if it goes bad from a fly by night dude in a van....at least a garage is a fixed address and you don't have to search the entire country to find them again. I'd be worried old mate in a van will just disappear into the ether if it goes wrong. Google part price. Can't be alot of margin in 250.

I think your local panel shop could fix that pretty cheaply as a cash job. Just a bit of surface rust and paint degradation. Small area, easy to mask and blend.

Almost sounds like a big lot of air in the system. An air lock could stop the heater working and could well lead to overheating. What Is it oil temp when it's overheating. That will be fairly tell tale. I'd be thinking a thermostat issue if air is ruled out, or blocked radiator even. The problem may have been there a while and masked by the flat spot in the temp guage.

This should be the case. I'd suggest getting an alignment done. Maybe the 350 one is better and will solve the issue. What caused the damaged wheel? Certainly sounds like a damaged suspension component/s are the likely cause.

Loose battery terminal. Flat battery

I would get the t piece and a few new Clamps as a start. You might be able to drill the broken piece of plastic out of the hose but if not, replace that hose too. Twist the Hoses a bit before you ease them off the plastic fittings so you don't break more barbs off