BlueWagon

This suggests there is some coolant flow (to make pipe hot in the first place) and that the matrix is removing all the heat. What happens if you run hot without any fan or at least low fan. Maybe coolant flow isn't enough for the matrix suggesting busted water pump or valve partially closed somewhere Is the engine hot enough? Is the matrix making hot or even warm air? Maybe a blend door isn't closing and not directing hot air from the matrix into the cabin

Probably be fine for a while yet. New recommendation is 180K miles or 15 yrs for the petrol engines i recall

Clutches rarely fail without some warning beforehand. Often once they show the first sign of slipping you might get another 10K out of it if you are careful

No, just do it when it fails. It will probably last a while longer yet I would do this

Id be wary of ebay sellers personally. Plenty of genuine parts for sale with very non genuine prices and quality to match

Cruise slightly slower and you'll use quite a bit less juice

Id find what is making it rattle. Is it just the front bearing or pulley, or even the idler? If its internal, I'd replace before it sends swarf into the AC pipes.

I changed mine at 309,000km. I think at 107,000 you have many years to go before you have to worry

Sounds like it is building hp before launching

Castrol Edge. I buy it when on special VW 502 00 I change it every 7,500km So half the recommended 15K. Engine as 310,000km on it

Id say any 5W30 which meets VW 502 spec is fine. I think the 504 spec is more for extended service intervals, and a 2013 model would do well with more regular changes anyway I use 502 spec in a 1.4tsi

That sounds like a very smart idea. Make sure it's the return line so the turbo is still oiled, and you get to see the flow through the turbo

How did they bleed the system then??? How much is the coolant going down? Say 1L per 1000km or what? A small amount not a big deal l, but.... If you have an air pocket and it was in the wrong spot, you could crack the head or damage the head gasket. If its been a few weeks and it's lost alot of coolant Id be looking at the head gasket and head. Needs a pressure test and Co2 test of the coolant by a guy other than the one who didn't bleed it. He's not likely to admit his lack of expertise lead to the cracked head. You may be lucky and just have a leaking egr or air in there still, but definitely bleed it before you drive any more And get a mechanic who can do the job rightly

Definately need a drain hole, maybe not as big as it is on yours. Does yours? Well, if it's meant to be there, and it isn't, then you know the answer hey. It's called a gaurd liner. Maybe just order one or get one from a wrecker/breakers yard. Seems like the obvious solution to me. The holes in the sill probably won't put sand a leaves on the top of the sill panel. I think 100% the leaves and sand are a result of the missing gaurd liner.

Can you please give us more info. Saying it stalls after starting is pretty open ended. maybe describe EXACTLY what happens so we can have half a chance at figuring out the go Does it do it when in P What about in N What about R Is it only when you put it in Drive? Is your foot on the brake? What happens if you don't have your foot on the brake (and handbrake released of course)?

Id lean on whoever is providing the warranty. Just make sure you aren't stalling it yourself. Eg, having the handbrake on and trying to drive off. Maybe the brake switch is dicky and it engages the clutch because it thinks the brake is released.

Skoda dealer Local parts shop Online Compare the prices and choose your risk level

Traction control....

How much? Say 1L per week or from full mark to empty in 2 months? Need a measure of the volume of coolant leaking. That bubbler would rely on a perfect seal at the top. Did it have that? Oil cooler may be leaking slightly. Again, we need to know how much coolant is being lost

I'd disagree. Thicker oil can still be DPF compatible. Oil viscosity is more related to climate and bearing clearances than DPF life. Low ash 5W30 exists yeah

Good run. They built a good car for sure

Provided you use compatible coolant to top up, not really necessary at all Id say. How low is it? Maybe need to bleed air out if gone really low. But as said, find where it went and fix the leak

Does the throttle appear to work normally after you dip the clutch? What happens if you try dipping it earlier? As in before it even starts to drop revs? Do you sill need to dip it again?

I doubt that. Unless contaminated by alot of water. You'd reckon the filter would take care of any debris in the tank

I think you can let it go a whole lot longer than that. Pretty sure they are up to 180K miles now. Some info on this site about that