BlueWagon

Does the fuel pressure increase when pump is running by direct wiring? If not Maybe pump has failed and does run but doesn't pump up enough pressure. Blocked pickup or failed relief valve in pump Maybe?? Maybe an immobiliser fault stopping the pump running. I had a car where the immobiliser stopped the fuel pump but you could still crank it

Why was head gasket replaced? Maybe it has failed again but not catastrophically Look around the overflow pipe. I think it leads out under the coolant tank

How much was it slipping for this half an hour.? So does it slip for half an hour or do you just not notice it half an hour later when you drive it again? Slipping for half an hour will roast a clutch. Really depends how much it actually slips. I've had a slipping clutch for 10,000K before. Only slipped under hard loads bit was fine if you babied it a bit. Can you describe what happens when it's slipping?? One would think that would make it slip alot. Can you elaborate on what happened and what you observed as a slipping clutch? It sounds a bit like the throwout bearing / slave cylinder isn't releasing properly. That may cause intermittent slipping. Try lifting the pedal with your foot next time it slips. Like a single squeak as you press it or a squeak that cycles due to engine rotation. Need a bit more detail. If its a single squeak it may be just a sticking thrust bearing as mentioned above If a constant squeak due to engine rotation it may be a dry thrust bearing. You may be able to lubricate the sticking bearing (spray something on the shaft it slides along) but if its a buggered bearing probably wait for it to get worse then replace along with the clutch plates

Could just be burned. 2mm isn't much at all and almost within margin of error considering how and when it is checked (eg hot or cold, some oil still not drained back to sump after running engine for a bit) Possibly same as this Maybe they didn't bleed it properly. May require a coolant flush as the VAG garage suggested. Some residual oil in coolant system is expected. 2mm of oil loss not gonna show a warning. I'd say this was the cause and you are seeing some effects of residual oil and an unpleasant system. I'd keep topping it up and watch it. If still using coolant after 500 miles, maybe another leak. I'd certainly be letting the garage know as their inability to bleed the system properly may cause damage to the cylinder head. This is where they admitted it may not be properly bled. I think it will be fine but a significant air lock can cause overheating in parts of the head which will lead to cracking. Run the heater a bit to promote coolant flow. That might help bleed the system

For 200 Euro, definitely can't see a downside. I'd try it as it's alot cheaper than the 2K otherwise quoted.

How do you know? That doesn't seem like much. How are you measuring it? Is it just being overfilled? Maybe the cap is leaking a bit out the overflow

I doubt you'll get a refund but repair should be fine. Might be a simple fix. Is this the first problem you have had with it? If so, one issue isn't really giving you grief. Id just get the mob that sold it to you to repair under warranty and go on living your life. Maybe after 3 or 4 failures you could say it's giving you grief

Put in clean container and reuse. Oil pretty cheap though so maybe wait 3 more months then do oil change a 6 month interval. It won't hurt doing a change after 6 months

Really depends on what box it is. The DQ200 doesn't require an oil change. The other 7 Speed wet clutch one does. There was a thread here about the dq200 and the final word was that it won't hurt to change the oil but it won't do much to help. The clutch will likely fail well before an oil related failure occurs and just change it then.

Surely a fault is present. Maybe need a more sophisticated code reader to get it. I can't imagine its a complex issue if it suddenly happened while driving at low speed and you have compression still. The no spark suggests wiring or plug undone somewhere. I'd say if you can get a decent electronic diagnosis it will show the fault. Eg get a live feed of engine parameters while cranking. Maybe crank angle sensor is simply failed or wire broken or unplugged. Or, engine immobiliser has somehow kicked in

The person on the phone probably saw that it is a non serviceable item (regarded as a lifetime of engine belt) and ASSUMED it was a chain. Probably an easy mistake to make if you don't know engines well, or Are trying to assure the customer it is fine. I'd agree with them, at 43K it's probably aok for another 150K. The belts are pretty good and in alot of markets, the same engine is Inspection at 240K km and every 30K after.

I think it's more a Mileage thing. The belt is probably fine for ages. The timing belt tensioner and idler is probably the weak link in these, but again, more a Mileage thing. If it were me, I'd inspect it and leave it alone. Inspection on CHPA engine is a 10 min job. Just pop the cover off and look closely as you rotate the engine. I'd replace the water pump though. That will be a problem if it leaks badly.

Because you are mostly cruising on the motorway.

Because the tank is full of air....not coolant. The prongs probably detect coolant conductivity which the coolant is alot more conductive than air. Because the tank is full of air, air likely come out of the cooling system as the coolant circulation happens. When you open the cap, the pressure of the air is released to the atmosphere, so the coolant comes back into the tank. The air pressure in the tank had been holding it down in the engine and other pipes. Coolant tank now has coolant in it, so warning goes off. I'd say this is the issue. I'd keep topping it up as needed Question: Does the coolant tank show low in the morning when the car is cold? Next time you get home, have a look at the level, see if it comes up overnight as the air in the tank cools and contracts a bit.

I think it's this one G055512 is just gear oil for the DQ200 Plenty of info on here to check that though.

That doesn't make sense....the coolant flowed into the tank but went out the hole in the bottom.... Do you mean it came out the cap? What did the mechanic say about the coolant levels?? Does your heater still get hot? If so, then he hasn't bypassed that. Not really understanding why you think he bypassed something but won't admit it. Test the heater I guess. That will confirm. As for the low coolant, I'd be asking the guy why it's so low. Maybe it is just a bit of trapped air comming out. Is it still low now? What happens if you opened the cap now.

So did the mechanic fix the issue or is it still building pressure. I doubt a mechanic would steal Hoses. Are you sure they aren't on the other side of the firewall? As in the passenger side. Also, wouldn't there be open connections where the Hoses went onto? Can you see that? Maybe google the engine bay or look for cars for sale with a pic under the hood

If you switch on the AC, does the fan come on? Maybe coolant temp not high enough.

A quick and dirty maybe 2-3K. Maybe a bit cheaper if you just want the lower parts painted black. But the rust will be back within 12 months. Rust comes from inside the panels, not the outside. For a good fix, double the price, and it will be back within 24 months. I'd say just keep it and either do it yourself or don't.

You'd probably have to bleed the air out. Might happen automatically when it primes. Just make sure all the lines and the filter housing, particularly on the clean side of the filter are scrupulously clean. Don't fill the filter with diesel when youinstall it either. Needs to be actually filtered through the filter.

Never seen a torx strip when using the right sized tool. Best design by far. You. May be able to grip the outside of the screw with a small Stilton, but probably need to remove the filter body from the car and do it on the bench

I reckon a correct sized torch would have been more appropriate. Why did you not use the torx?

They want to offer a whole lot more than that. Could potentially get it welded but it will always be pretty weak. If the rest is good I'd offer maybe 40% of what they are worth.

I have had error messages from driving on an uneven road surface. Likely related to the different rotation speeds of the wheels. If be considering where you were driving at the time, eg were 2 wheels on the grass or on roadworks or something like that. Maybe even a slightly larger crown on a street. I get mine if I put the wheels up on the crown of a dirt road (to increase the ground clearance).

Mine doesn't reset. Can't really help more than that sorry