OccyVRS

Eh? Do you mean to ask if the front doors on the estate are the same as the hatch? In which case, yes.

Service mode is only for the EPB.

Around 100k it is a good idea to change the oil in a DQ200. There are two - the oil in the gearbox itself, and then the MCU.

Yes - I wouldn't be looking to compare a PFL Mk3 to a PFL Mk4 - there's just too much difference (not to mention the ten years or so inbetween them). As an aside, you can see the comparison between the Mk4 PFL and FL here. Just like the 3 to 3.5, most of the differences are under the hood. I should also explain that my Occy is almost the best of both worlds - for me, anyway. Among other things, it has the digi dash and ACC, along with TSR. I get nice features, along with a slightly nicer driving feel. Of course, I also get phyiscal knobs, and the ability to turn all the safety stuff off - permanently. Had I not been able to find one with the digi dash, I would have likely dug around for a Mk4. I just, personally, really dislike the Mk3.5 analog gauges. That said, I also sort of hate the Christmas tree lighting in my car now - I have the 2000s green switchgear lighting, the white infotainment and then the modern digi dash. It does clash a little bit. Whoever specced my car also didn't tick power fold mirrors, which annoys me too. The interior of the Mk4 is absolutely streets ahead - it's my only gripe with my car, really (beside the tail lights). The newer model has alcantara and such, whereas mine is nasty plastic. Similarly, the new model is full LED with a rear light design from this decade, whereas the half LED/half halogen setup on my car looks like they took it from a Mk1 Fabia. There are bigger issues, but every time I see a 7.5 GTI I do long for some nicer rear lights. In terms of the headlights, it depends. If you look at the Matrix unit of a Mk4, you will see two units (almost like eyes). By comparison, by car only has one of these units, with the rest of the full beam coming from a different unit in the smaller split headlight. I personally think the Mk3.5 are more than enough - although I do wish I had HBA (High Beam Assist). On a dual carriageway I find full beam too bright, as it reflects too strongly off of signs. Up in the north of Scotland, I find them more than enough too, at whatever speed I'm travelling at. That being said, they aren't a Matrix system. If headlights are the most important factor for you, then get a Mk4. i weighed up the differences and decided that a better driving experience, with favourable controls and looks outweighed spending an extra £5,000 on a Mk4 (this was early last year). If I were to choose an Octavia again, I'd still get a 3.5 with options.

All 245s have the VAQ. FL 230s do not have it. The PFL 230 did have it, as the PFL was split 220/230 rather than the FL 230/245 - although the PFL230 came quite late. Looking at a 230 vs a 245, the latter has the LSD, larger brakes and a bit more power. IMO, it's worth it for the LSD alone. I debated a Mk4 vs a Mk3.5 for a long time. I liked the Mk4 interior and Matrix headlights, but preferred the look oif the Mk3.5 and how it felt to drive. Ultimately, I couldn't stand the touch buttons, so went for the latest model 3.5 (Jan 2020) I could find. I don't regret it.

I agree. If you have to ask, you can’t do it. That being said, the engine comparison is oranges and apples. They’re completely different engines - while a PDXXX (Pumpe Duse) unit is bombproof, the later Common Rail units aren’t exactly known for their unreliability. Equally, the 1.9TDI does have some issues (well, later ones did AFAIK) but the 1.6TDI has a DPF and other fun things that go wrong.

The thing is, this will be my last car with buttons. I just couldn't justify the extra £4,500 for a car I liked less! Could be worse, could be like a Polo hire car I had, with stupid touch sensitive steering wheel buttons.

My vRS is, again, the most well-rounded and balanced car I've driven. @Ootohere will confirm, but I think aside from the annual servicing, the only think you need to check out is that the VAQ (differential) was serviced at 20,000 miles. The engine cover was VAG wide - bit annoying but is what it is. Ditto with MIB3. I wanted a Mk4 for the Matrix and better interior. I bought a Mk3.5 for everything else. I just couldn't get on with the lack of buttons. Mine does have the digi dash and everything.

What year are you looking at? Mine is a very late model Mk3.5 (2020). I spent long and hard deciding over a 3.5 or a 4 - both have their merits.

You can disabled them with an OBD tool (OBD11 on Amazon) but, as I said above, just turn the headlights manually off (as opposed to auto) and they won't activate. I turn mine off whenever I clean my windscreen, as I hate the headlight washers - I just haven't gotten around to disabling them yet. Personally, unless it is absolutely necessary, I'd try not to use any of the washers. I think you'll survive with a cloth and some spray at services. I would get some clear Gorilla tape too - you don't want the tape to break down in the sun or rain on the trip.

Potentially! I thought you were making comment on how I was having a discussion on the price/availability of Skoda parts, on a post about removing the bumper and assessing the damage. If not, then I apologise 😂 It's been a long few days struggling to finish my masters thesis, so I'm probably misreading what you said.

Huh? You are literally the one that brought up the price of parts -

Not at all - as you say, having a complete thread is absolutely fantastic. There is nothing worse than finding a Reddit post about your exact problem, ten years ago, and then nothing afterwards😂

skoda-parts.com is Cz - they get their stuff straight from the factory down the road, AFAIK. Weird.

Be advised that, for whatever reason the lighter oil was specified, some engines are optimised to run on it. I have a DKTB EA888.3 that runs on 0W-20 - bearing tolerances and a variable speed oil pump mean running a heavier oil might not actually be the best thing for it. Traditionally yes, a lighter oil offers less protection at operating temp. However, with tighter bearing tolerances and a pump designed to keep a thinner oil at higher pressure, all around the engine, from what I've seen the effect is the same. Advice from various places is to stick with manufacturer recommendations, unless heavily tuned. If the car is designed/recommended to run on 5W-30, why change it? Most people have issue with the viscosity when cold (0W). VW 504/507 was 5W-30, seems now it has changed to 0W-30.

As above, if a garage/dealer is suggesting they need replacing, find a new one!

Is that an FL LED unit? I’m seeing the following - https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/5e1941016e-led-headlamp-right-complete-skoda-30628.html For my Mk3 Leon, genuine from SEAT headlights were £1,200 each. I just assumed similar.

These things happen. The first thing I would do is get some clear Gorilla tape to seal over the damaged fog light. This will stop any water ingress. Then, take a look underneath/through the engine bay/through the towing eye hole and make sure that the bumper is securely on - I.E. no major cracks, no majorly damaged fixings. Looking at the damage you should be okay, but it pays to check. Similarly, inspect behind the bumper and make sure nothing is damaged - again, doubt it, but do check. Regarding the headlight washer, my honest solution would be to plug the end, cover in Gorilla tape and zip tie somewhere out of the way. If you turn the headlights to off, the headlight washers will not activate, at any point. Hopefully someone can advise on whether fixing the washer nozzle properly is a viable option. If I'm honest, with potential damage to the bumper, I'd be inclined to seal the washer system off, apply tape, and drive the car as normal. FYI - most dealers can get parts next day. I would be more interested in replacing the fog light on Friday (it can be done with the bumper on), in order to safeguard the electrical system. The washer, IMO, is a nonissue. I've had an arch liner crack into four pieces the day before a France trip, and the battery die on my Octavia a week before a Scotland trip. It's sods law, but you'll make it. My plan would be to make sure the car is structurally sound, then electrically sound, and then worry about the washer. Look at the silver lining - you are very fortunate you didn't crack the headlight! Those things are expensive.

@barcudcoch light misting is very normal with VAG. I would assume over half VWAG cars have 'light misting of oil' on their MOT sheets. Misting is different to leaking. Leaking means you need new shocks, misting means your shocks have oil in them and are working. As @Paws4Thot says, MOT testers write so many things as an advisory - under trays, tyres, pads, wipers, rust, wear and tear - the list goes on. Ignore it, move on. Problem solved.

It's not the most generous space to work in, but it's most likely been disconnected for the box to be dropped. I think it's very unlikely to have gone at the same time!

A) The EPB will need to be released. Something like OBD11 will be able to do this. You might still need to wind the calipers in anyway (rears, not front), as there could be a sticking issue that's causing your noise. Generally, with noises like this, if it's not the wheel bearing, it's not knackered discs/pads, it's not something stuck in the dust shield then it'll be a sticking (dragging) caliper. The rear caliper pistons screw in and out as they operate, so you'll need to 'screw' or wind them back in. You can get a little tool for it - don't use a screwdriver as you can knacker the piston face. B) the mark on the hub face and disc are so that it's quick to put the disc back on when removing. Can you see all the holes in the brake disc hub/bell? The five large ones are for the wheel bolts, the three partial ones are part of the manufacturing process and then the little one with the bolt in it is just that - a disc retaining bolt. The disc only attaches to the hub one way (I.E. there is only one hole on the hub for the retaining bolt to go into. The lines make it nice and easy to just whack it on and do it up, without having to rotate the disc all the way around until the little bolt finds the little hole. See the picture below of the hub (bit behind the disc) and you'll see what I mean - you have the hub, followed by the brake disc, followed by the wheel. The wheel bolts pass through the disc, and screw into the hub. All that holds the brake disc on when the wheel and bolts are off is the retaining bolt, plus whatever rust/brake dust/magic stuff has built up over the years. On a newer car they should come off with a tap, on an older car you might need to break out the mallet, or worse. Those pen marks are not a factory thing (AFAIK), but a mechanic/DIY thing. It means those rear discs have been off before. Unless you're cleaning the hub, disc, and wheel faces before re-installing, it's always a good idea to put everything back in the same orientation as it was before.

I'm not certified and definitely not a professional, but I did moonlight as a helping hand at a supercar detailing place for a summer during uni. Okay, so I did mainly just snow foam G-Wagons and hoover Ferrari floor mats, but I did pick up some good tips and earn £130 a day while I was at it! One good tip is to always make sure the lance is securely on the pressure washer, before using it. Don't ask me how I know - definitely didn't chip a Urus wheel shooting the metal lance at it. Luckily though, I know this guy that is going to help me do a paint correction on my car in September. The only thing I'll add, with regard to sealant, is if the car is a few years old and hasn't had much in the way of paintwork love (like mine), you might find that the behaviour after sealant isn't that good (or at least, not like Instagram). You'll need to hit it with a clay bar to remove all the small bits of rubbish. A good rule of thumb with cleaning a car is to never let anything dry - sealant especially, but general soap and stuff too. It's nice to apply snow foam/pre wash when the car is dry, but there's no shame in cooling the paintwork off beforehand, if it needs it. Regarding brake calipers - lots of people use acid but I actually prefer, as you said, to do a gentle bit, little and often. I use citrus pre wash and a detailing brush for the calipers - the paint isn't the best and it does a nice job whilst not being too aggressive on anything. I will hit it with a wheel cleaner every few months, but I try not to make a habit of it. One nice benefit of not using wheel cleaner (fallout/iron remover) is that it doesn't completely strip your discs. This means they don't rust, and the first drive you go on, the wheels don't turn orange as you brake! Oh, and tyre shine is overrated. Whoops.

I agree, even though they are probably in the same segment (technically). Tyres are the best thing you can do to a car - it always pains me to see an M3 riding on £70 no name tyres.

+1 for sound proofing. The three things to do with cheaper VW cars is to a) add a sub b) swap out the front door speakers and c) add soundproofing everywhere!

What happened in 2013-15? DQ381 wasn't around till 2017. I was under the impression (generally) that the 381 was one of the more reliable DSG boxes (the DQ200 likes to have issues, that I do know). Ultimately, it's a robotised dual clutch transmission, so when things go wrong, they are going to be pricey and be shouted about. Certainly, I've only really heard good things about the DQ3XX or DL3XX.