OccyVRS

Still not entirely sure about the Harry's Garage vs Insurance/Warranty company (maybe I didn't watch enough of the video), but anyway. Bottom line is that, for all those reading this in eight years time at 3am, there is currently no prescribed service interval from Audi, VW, Skoda, SEAT or Cupra for the DQ200. Some wish to service them, as mentioned above, but TLDR is that OP's comments about 40k-100k service seem to be from thin air, and you physically cannot check the oil level on a DQ200 box. I'm not sure if OP was told this by a mysterious 'oil company', Skoda UK, or a Chimera. Despite our best efforts, we may never know.

So Skoda UK are informing you that the DQ200 needs servicing between 40k-100k, with other DQ200-using brands (Audi, VW, SEAT or Cupra) saying it needs to be inspected every 20k (which simply isn't possible, FYI)? Once again, we aren't disagreeing with your comment per se - we are simply asking where you were told this, because this just isn't true. There is no DSG gearbox that VWAG (Borg Warner) supply, make or use that require an inspection every 20,000 miles. That being said, you also said you were told this by 'an oil company', but it's now Skoda UK? It may be an interesting comment, but after a quick Google search I can't find it. Are you able to post a link, etc? It is, and that's sort of what we're all trying to do here... figure out where you got this information wrong, potentially educate you or ourselves, and leave another valuable thread in this forum for others to find. I fear someone is making that journey quite difficult.

I mean, if you were swapping the wheels out then of course you would tell your insurance. If you were powder coating originally grey wheels luminescent orange, I might be tempted to do some digging and maybe phone them up to ask the question. If they were simply being refurbed from silver to grey, black, diamond cut, or any other OE colour, I wouldn't bother. I mean, where is the line drawn? Technically if you get them refurbed in the exact same colour, they are still non-standard. Would swapping out 18" Gemini for 19" Xtreme be non-standard? That being said, for the £10 it cost me to do 'non-standard alloys' with Admiral, I'd probably just tick the box.

Saving Salvage has also recently put a DAZA into a Mk3 Octavia here. Doing it without fault codes, however, is probably impossible in reality. Anything is doable, mind, but it won't be a quick job. I know someone with a 3.2 V6 in an AWD converted Octavia. It's possible.

Yes. It's literally a few comments above.

This is absolutely incredible. It's not that we don't agree with your comment - we are simply asking (for the fifth, or sixth time now) where you got this information from, as it is contrary to what we otherwise know. I'm not entirely sure where the aggression is, if I'm honest, and I think this has been clarified about three times. As you seem to be having a hard time understanding, let me put it another way - @super717 - "I've been told to inspect my DQ200 every 20k, and service it every 40k" @Ootohere @OccyVRS - "That's interesting, where did you hear this?" @super717 - "If you don't agree with me, ask for the post to be taken down" @Ootohere @OccyVRS - "Oh, no no, we're just asking where you were told this, that's all!" @Gammyleg - "Yeah, I've found this on my box so you might be right, but you can't check the oil level" @Ootohere @OccyVRS - "Agreed. OP, who told you this?" @super717 - "Keyboard warriors, aggression, it's up to people to read someones random claims and take action" I don't understand how it can be this difficult. I give up.

@Gammyleg exactly, it's not possible. FWIW, I like to think that anyone TVS Engineering is worth mentioning the word DSG to. Given that it is a dry clutch gearbox, I would think changing the oil around 80k-100k miles would seem sensible, depending on use. That's a minimum of twice a wet clutch box interval, which seems reasonable. I'm just a bit confused at why OP is taking offence at someone asking for the source of their information, whilst also thinking you can check the oil level on a DSG gearbox. There's absolutely nothing wrong with posting stuff like this @super717, however I think it's important to make sure the information is correct/reputable. These forums are a wealth of information, but I remember a time when I would have taken a post like this as gospel - so it's important things are correct, or at least checked. I don't think @Ootohere was asking anything aside from where you got the 20k service information, which BTW, you still haven't given?

I understand exactly why you were using M to hold it in gear - as I said, I'm not too sure what the issue with doing this is. TVS is a good benchmark for DSG stuff. YMMV (your mileage may vary), but anywhere that's a TVS dealer is usually worth a punt.

That's fine, however all @Ootohere was asking was who gave you the advice on the 20k inspection/40k change? Audi, Skoda, SEAT, Cupra and VW all tend to give slightly different service advice. FWIW, you can't check the DSG oil level with draining and refilling it, at temperature. I appreciate DSG boxes might seem very finicky, but I would advise you to just leave it be if it isn't causing any issues. They are very clever gearboxes and you'll know if something is wrong. They also aren't a traditional auto box (they have clutches, rather than a torque converter/CVT/etc setup). DSG/DCT/PDK boxes are very common and there are lots of them around. Unless it gives you any problems, get in it and go.

Sounds like the clutch packs might want looking at, or there could be another issue that's causing the box to hold back clamping pressure. Less likely, but it's possible. I'd get it looked at somewhere proper - even the DQ200 is still a pretty finicky box, and you want someone that knows what they're doing. Looking on the TVS Engineering website, there are places in Athens, Heraklion and Thessaloniki. I drive a DQ381 and DQ200 in manual mode fairly often. There isn't really an issue with this, I don't think? I haven't found the DQ200 to be particularly juddery - it's in a 2021 Ibiza FR. I can provoke my DQ381 to be a bit dodgy, but that's often in traffic if I squeeze the throttle and then suddenly lift off in 2nd or so.

It's not so much the message you're giving, but more where that message is from. The DQ200 is sealed for life, but it isn't. As @Ootohere has said, both the box and MCU are serviceable. Without wishing to make one of the sweeping statements I advocate against, I would agree that inspecting the oil on a DQ200 every 20,000 miles is absolute rubbish. The reason these boxes don't 'need' a fluid change is because, unlike the wet clutch boxes, these have a dry clutch pack. They aren't submerged in the oil, so there isn't anything getting in the oil, so there's nothing really to inspect. The recommendation for all wet clutch DSG boxes is a fluid (and filter, cough) change every 40k miles, with the DQ381 being at 80k (although most, including myself, choose to do it at 40k). I find it hard to believe that anyone would suggest checking a DQ200 at half the interval for a DQ500! As above, the interval for Haldex systems (be it AWD, LSD, etc) is 20-30k depending on the application, and they're a totally different ball game. There is no recommended interval for DQ200 boxes. If you have an issue with it, do the service. If it's working and below 100k ish, leave it alone - there's nothing to be gained.

Other issues aside, having the ECU that hot might cause some bigger issues. A wet vac would work wonders on the seats, assuming you haven't done that already. You mentioned the entire braking system was from a submarine - is that all the rust on the car? By the sounds of it, it's more a question of how long it's sat for!

Ahh…. I thought you were on about a few blokes in the corner of a car park, armed with a pressure washer and some opaque bottles of secret sauce. We don’t really have your jet wash sort of thing here, from what I’ve seen - closest thing are the automated car washes that have the jets, but then they have the big brush things and all sorts after. That said, they do have blowers at the end, so silver lining and all that. If I can’t be arsed I’ll just citrus pre wash and snow foam the car, before pressure washing it off. Same principle I suppose, and I’m guessing it’s a bit less muddy where you are too. In London the showers and taps are double filtered and softened and then the drinking water is double filtered, softened and then filtered again. It’s a bit of a joke really. Like I said, after seeing what it does to my car after I wash it, I won’t be drinking it anytime soon.

Shiny windows is something I envy - mine always end up with slight marks on them, even if I dry them properly. The water here is so, so, so hard! I'm aware there are good car washes out there - as I said, maybe stuff is different for you guys, as over here they're called scratch and shines for a reason. If you mean an automated car wash (it's late, I'm tired) then that's a different story. Using those every now and again will be absolutely fine, as long as matey is careful with that brush/pressure washer thingy! I was speaking to someone the other day about what is worse for a car - automated car washes, or a hosepipe with fairy liquid (Dawn for you guys?) and a shaggy old sponge. I know which one I'd rather...

I was commenting as 'stupidity personified' appeared to be levelled at me. You quoted what I said, followed by the words stupid and then personified... I appreciate that I may have misinterpreted what you meant regarding revolutions of the wheel, rather than revolutions of the engine, however when it's written as 'more revs faster speed reading', can you really blame me? Besides, I knew exactly what you meant - I was making a point. Regarded your last bit, I agree. The item here, for example, would be much better suited. OE wheels are pretty expensive here too - an 18" spare wheel for a vRS is £300 from Skoda, which is $620 AUD. If it were me in this position, I'd either borrow a set of VAG wheels from a friend, or pick up some 16" steelies. I'm a bit dubious of cheap(er) second hand wheels, but that's just me! That said, maybe OP is limited in where they can travel due to disability, commitment or other factors. Regardless, it's not our position to call someone stupid or appear disparaging and condescending because they ask about doing something. Maybe you didn't mean to come across the way that you did, however that is the way that I read it. BTW - remember it's 2am here, so OP is probably fast asleep dreaming of his newly refurbed wheels 😆

As per my comment elsewhere, different strokes for different folks. Most towels tend to be soft - that's sort of the point of them. Drying towels are designed specifically to dry something - having used normal towels for a reason I forget, their effect is not the same. They have a tendency to push water around, and can also leave stuff on the paint. A microfibre drying towel will not. I should also say - a car wash, brushless or not, isn't the best thing for your car. They use strong chemicals to get the job done quickly, and are often far too exuberant with the pressure washer in close proximity to paintwork. The wheels in particular, at least here in the UK, are often attacked with all sorts of strong acids. It's fine every now and again, but it's not great long term.

Right. Nice to meet you too, I think? I personally don't go around on the internet calling people I don't know 'stupid', but different strokes for different folks and all that. I'm not sure how things work in Australia, but here in the UK we generally don't let random people drive our vehicles, especially when they're on temporary wheels for a refurb job. I'm reasonably sure most commercial tyres have a speed rating of above 70mph, so insurance would need to take into account the fact OPs car was speeding too. OP also mentioned they were looking for a setup 'at a price I can afford' - god forbid somebody can't afford to get a temporary setup with forged 21" HRE's dressed in 315 section Pilot Sport Cup 2s. Of course fitting commercial tyres and wheels to a car perhaps isn't ideal, but for the use that OP has (spare for a refurb) I suspect it will be absolutely fine. You should never fit passenger wheels and tyres to a commercial vehicle that require load rated items, but as long as the speed rating is taken into consideration, there is no reason why commercial items on a passenger car will cause any significant issues, as long as caution is exercised with the speed rating. Thanks for your sweeping statement. I'm sure OP was looking for exactly what you said - 'it's not as if the correct ones are hard to get'. Clearly, for his budget, they are. That is also not to mention he quite literally said he was just after wheels and that useable tyres were 'a bonus'. Thank you for explaining how a speedometer functions. I should however point out that 'more revs faster speeding', despite being grammatically incorrect, is also factually inaccurate, as I would suspect being at 2,000rpm in 6th is going to result in a larger inaccuracy than being at 6000rpm in 1st. It could also be an older car, with a mechanical or VSS speedo. It's not, but it could be. I think, speaking for myself, the other commenters and OP, we are all aware of this. I think that's everything. I wish I were intelligent enough to call someone stupid when my syntax, grammar and punctuation render my comments virtually unintelligible.

Some people care about their cars.

I can't see anything wrong with using commercial rated tyres on a car, with the caveat being you'd want to be under their (presumably low) speed rating. FWIW, if you have 312mm brakes, then commercial 16" wheels might cause some issues with clearances if they are a weird shape/offset.

I had my vRS up to almost 350bhp and 500nm, and didn't have any issues with the driveshafts. Several blokes in my vRS group have cars near 400bhp, with Wavetrac/Quaife diffs. Hell, I've seen a 500bhp TSI Occy with 670nm on standard driveshafts. I note OP has a 2017 TDI - I presume it's a FWD model rather than AWD. Given that it's tuned to 300bhp (somehow) I would assume the torque to be up near 650nm, if Darkside is anything to go by. If it's AWD then yeah, you might be breaking driveshafts. If it's FWD then there's no way you're getting enough traction, so I'm not sure how you're breaking them! Frankly, I'd expect you to break the gearbox before a driveshaft.

The water where I am is atrocious - I've actually stopped drinking it after seeing what it does to the car. I use drying towels, which work a treat. I've got a few over the years, but you can get two for no more than £15 each. If you want to be fancy, a spray sealant 'drying aid' works wonders too. As others have said, using a water softener/filter, or distilled water is an option, but unless you have a Bugatti, it's a waste of time, effort and money!

To be fair, aside from the welding and bodywork, if it has good bones then most of the parts can be had from a breakers yard. What is the interior like? I think the others are missing the point that it was bought specifically as a project car. Equally, I also think they're missing the point that, for a first car, it doesn't have to be perfect. I dare say he will spend the next few years containing the work and modifications - at least until he can get insured on something faster! I will say that I hope you didn't pay more than a few hundred quid for it - sounds like you did the previous owner a favour 😆

Headlight washers should be in the engine bay fuse box (under the cover, next to the battery).

I would look at a poly version - that is the same billet insert as mine, which wasn't great for NVH. If if was too much for my vRS, I can only image how it would be in a 1.4. You want something more like this, IMO.

I have a billet 034 one you can have for postage. Absolutely ruined my car! I’m looking at Powerflex now.