Aldfort

The car was not new to the current owner. I can well imagine a car, in particular if on Motability, wearing out a clutch in 19k miles.

Ask that a "master technician" goes out with you for a test drive. Suggest you drive and then tell them when you hear the sound. "Master Technician" may be a UK term - here it means a technician who has had a lot of Skoda training.

Good news, would try to swerve around Arnold Clark if you can though, too many bad reviews.

Well mine certainly makes a number of noises after I switch off the ignition. Our Golf is the same with similar sorts of noises.

I think you just get the LED headlight and DLR. Also LED rear light. Probably means that the fog lights etc are not LED. Owners manual here might give some clues: Skoda

Do you have Skoda Warranty or do you have 3rd party Warranty?

No idea - sorry.

I think you are best returning to the supplying dealer if this an option. (Assuming you bought from a Skoda dealer.) Don't touch Arnold Clark with a bargepole IMHO. The symptoms of over-revving you describe do sound like a clutch issue.

Normally this light is associated with issues with the throttle body. Did the check engine light and the stability control light also come on? Did you notice the engine temperature, was it high? Were you low on fuel? For sure get the car booked in to a garage for a thorough check.

I can't hear anything except the distinct click as the gear leaver moves across the gate.

Well at least you've reported the issue, if the box drops out you have some history.

The packaging in the Kamiq is excellent. You can compare all the key dimensions for passengers on the Skoda web site.

The Kamiq is a Polo sized car (similar platform). OK, I know it does not look that way. I came out of the Q3 (same basic platform as Golf) into the Kamiq and the slight shrinking in size is noticeable. I was looking at Q2's as well but silly prices. Kamiq boot is big though. The deciding factor for me was the weight the 1.5 engine had to lug about. An easy 44 mpg from the Kamiq is a winner. I'm still of the opinion that the price on the Kamiq is on the high side.

As mentioned, Service history is the fist thing to check. If there is no documented service history then walk away. (Modern, dealer serviced Skoda's have an electronic service record.) At 40,000 miles the must do service items will be oil and filter changes (hopefully 3), air filter changes (hopefully 2) and spark plugs (1 change will be fine) If this all checks out then the test drive should tell you everything else. Look out for any jerky gear changes or hesitations during acceleration and any funny noises. Get a look at the brake pads if you can. Look at the tyres, are the a 2nd or 3rd tier brand?, That can tell you a lot. Price seems very high for a 40,000 mile car. Autotrader suggests you should be able to buy newer with half the miles for £16k

One more thing, are you sure you are depressing the clutch to fully disengage it? Two possibilities, either you are pressing a bit too much or not enough. This is a longshot and I think going to the dealer is the best bet.

There are, I think, two possibilities: The gear shift linkages might need adjusting. The actual shift lever mechanism might need some lubrication. The best thing is to take it to the dealer and demonstrate the problem on a test drive. If they tell you it is fine then ask them to note the problem on the cars electronic service record. This way if the problem gets worse you have a record of reporting it before the car is 1 year old.

From all the answers I'm fairly sure the linkage needs adjusting.

This sounds more and more like a slight mis adjustment of the selector linkages. Just to rule things out you can try: Engaging gears with the car parked, engine off. Press clutch select a gear, release clutch. Is it more or less notchy going into any gear? Engine on press clutch and engage a gear (e.g 2nd) keep clutch pressed down. Does the car start to engage the gear after a few seconds even with the clutch pressed down? If it does this indicated that the clutch cylinder seals need changing.

If the change into 2nd is notchy then it's almost certainly due to the fact that the shift needs an adjustment. Is it better / worse if you double declutch? Is it better / worse engine hot v engine cold? Is there any noise when in 2nd gear specifically that's not there with the other gears? Are you certain there are no associated engine symptoms? Maybe like the engine not responding to the throttle pedal correctly?

I don't know if the sensor is similar, technically, probably yes, but built to the same standard as 7 years ago, who knows? If you have a code reader it might be worth checking for trouble codes. Not seen this on my 1 year old Kamiq (yet😁). If it's any consolation our 5 year old Golf sometimes reports rear parking sensors not working. The fault then disappears after the next engine start.

...and years ago prior to such things as DTC codes I might have done it as well, probably did. Today I prefer a code reader.

There are several possibilities. Snow or Ice on the front of the car can cause this. If you want to be sure the sensor is working the cover needs to be clean and free of snow and ice. It is possible the sensor is starting to fail. It is a possibility the cars computer "fails" the sensor during the start up process as the car battery is starting to degrade. Modern cars are over sensitive to battery voltage IMHO.

It's my opinion that those advocating trying to set fire to the petrol in the oil are giving dangerous advice. OK It is possible but carries some risk for the unwary or inexperienced. It's also not conclusive. As has been said, there might be slight contamination for all sorts of reasons. If there is any sort of real problem there will almost certainly be DTC codes in the cars engine management computer which can easily be scanned. Severe over-fuelling will give rise to particulate filter blockage, soot in the exhaust and problems with the catalytic converter. All of which will be captured in DTC codes, not to mention poor fuel consumption.

With the short trips you do I don't think this is anything to worry about. If the petrol smell was there at the end of a long trip then it would be cause for worry. The TSi engine has a cold start function with might be slightly over-fuelling the engine during start-up. The excess petrol can then mix with the oil and get into the sump. Also the engine has the ability to operate in 2 cylinder mode, this could also give rise to fuel being injected that is not burnt on occasion. If you are worried ask for the dealer to do a diagnostic scan and report any DTC's (They will probably charge you.)

Wow, that's a massive current draw for a Dashcam. Here is what Nextbase say on their web site: "Do Nextbase Dash Cams use much power? On average, our Series 2 Dash Cams use approximately 300 mAh (milliamp hours) of power while turned on (recording and charging), 200 mAh while in standby mode (charging), and around 100 mAh in standby mode (fully charged)."