Aldfort

From all the answers I'm fairly sure the linkage needs adjusting.

This sounds more and more like a slight mis adjustment of the selector linkages. Just to rule things out you can try: Engaging gears with the car parked, engine off. Press clutch select a gear, release clutch. Is it more or less notchy going into any gear? Engine on press clutch and engage a gear (e.g 2nd) keep clutch pressed down. Does the car start to engage the gear after a few seconds even with the clutch pressed down? If it does this indicated that the clutch cylinder seals need changing.

If the change into 2nd is notchy then it's almost certainly due to the fact that the shift needs an adjustment. Is it better / worse if you double declutch? Is it better / worse engine hot v engine cold? Is there any noise when in 2nd gear specifically that's not there with the other gears? Are you certain there are no associated engine symptoms? Maybe like the engine not responding to the throttle pedal correctly?

I don't know if the sensor is similar, technically, probably yes, but built to the same standard as 7 years ago, who knows? If you have a code reader it might be worth checking for trouble codes. Not seen this on my 1 year old Kamiq (yet😁). If it's any consolation our 5 year old Golf sometimes reports rear parking sensors not working. The fault then disappears after the next engine start.

...and years ago prior to such things as DTC codes I might have done it as well, probably did. Today I prefer a code reader.

There are several possibilities. Snow or Ice on the front of the car can cause this. If you want to be sure the sensor is working the cover needs to be clean and free of snow and ice. It is possible the sensor is starting to fail. It is a possibility the cars computer "fails" the sensor during the start up process as the car battery is starting to degrade. Modern cars are over sensitive to battery voltage IMHO.

It's my opinion that those advocating trying to set fire to the petrol in the oil are giving dangerous advice. OK It is possible but carries some risk for the unwary or inexperienced. It's also not conclusive. As has been said, there might be slight contamination for all sorts of reasons. If there is any sort of real problem there will almost certainly be DTC codes in the cars engine management computer which can easily be scanned. Severe over-fuelling will give rise to particulate filter blockage, soot in the exhaust and problems with the catalytic converter. All of which will be captured in DTC codes, not to mention poor fuel consumption.

With the short trips you do I don't think this is anything to worry about. If the petrol smell was there at the end of a long trip then it would be cause for worry. The TSi engine has a cold start function with might be slightly over-fuelling the engine during start-up. The excess petrol can then mix with the oil and get into the sump. Also the engine has the ability to operate in 2 cylinder mode, this could also give rise to fuel being injected that is not burnt on occasion. If you are worried ask for the dealer to do a diagnostic scan and report any DTC's (They will probably charge you.)

Wow, that's a massive current draw for a Dashcam. Here is what Nextbase say on their web site: "Do Nextbase Dash Cams use much power? On average, our Series 2 Dash Cams use approximately 300 mAh (milliamp hours) of power while turned on (recording and charging), 200 mAh while in standby mode (charging), and around 100 mAh in standby mode (fully charged)."

If it fails to work when plugged in then it's a trip to the dealer. I have my phone paired but do not use AA. If I plug my phone in (front USB only) it jumps to the AA start page all on it's own.

New Samsung phones can be problematic for AA. Wireless adapter might fix the issue, linking with cable probably won't.

If this is essential then you should get a letter or e-mail from the dealer.

Probably going to need the infotainment software re-installed then. Does AA work with any older phone?

A typical dashcam will require 5-10W. Varies with model and resolution. So I'd say up to 2 amps for the high end 4k models.

I've seen several issues reported for the S24.

The dealer is always an option. The OTA update requires that Skoda have a contract in place with at least one mobile operator in your region. Note: does not matter if your mobile phone connects to your provider, the car is capable of connecting on its own in some territories and Skoda pays for the data download to the car. If the car cannot connect then the little world symbol in the infotainment will either not be present or will be grey and not white. Also if no OTA available only the dealer will know if an update is needed. Your car has no way of knowing if it can't communicate with the big computer in Germany. (OK you can also look at software version and ask if is current one.)

Yep, I also had the same update as did several other Kamiq's The update required 2-3 restarts to get it all done. But I also noticed that a few things went AWOL until the update fully completed.

Does the phone pair OK?

First check the privacy setting. Ensure you are "visible" to the big computer in Germany. Now navigate to check for update, if there are any available there should be an App update button on one of the 3 main menu screen. If not from Vehicle select settings and then updates. You'll either get a message (after a long pause) telling you that you are up to date or a message offering updates. Note that if there is more than one then they may not all install immediately, sometimes it takes 2 or 3 restart cycles. Also not all updates will install when the car is moving so you may have to stop and apply the handbrake or simply have the ignition on but the engine off.

Look under vehicle and then the settings. There should be a listing for software or similar. Open that to find the updates button.

Clear the fault and monitor assuming the engine is running ok.

Ah, I rarely listen to the radio, normally playing my "tunes".

All you can do is: Check the setting if you have any control to tell the car if it's loaded or not. Park on a flat surface and mark the position of the dipped beams on a wall. Then turn on main beam and mark those positions. You should be able to see the dipped beam is clearly dipped. If you think the dip is misaligned or not working then it's a trip to the dealer. Note: LED lights are causing a lot of complaints from those who still don't have LED's

Manual here Skoda Bolero Infotainment system user manual (English - 84 pages)

The range is conditional on the fuel consumption. When you first start the engine the data used is remembered from your last trip. As you start driving new data allows for the anticipated range to be updated. This is why the number goes up and down. If you look at the trip mpg figure this will also go up and down in town driving. The range is based on the mpg the computer in the car is seeing. On a long run as the mpg (generally) climbs and the range will then often do the same or at least not drop despite you covering several miles. Personally I find mpg since last refuel to be a more useful guide.