Aldfort

I too would be tempted to reject the car. Too many issues. You could try resetting the infotainment to fix Laura. Long press on the on off "button" until the system re-boots.

Ah, sorry, pre-digital cluster. That said, the cluster should simply repeat what the ECU knows. It's worth checking if the odometer moves at the same rate as the trip meter. Do 5 miles on the trip increase the odometer by 5 miles? If they don't then you should suspect a cheat device. That could explain the mystery re-set as well. BTW - any garage that has an Xtool diagnostic reader should be able to reset this fault. If you Google Odometer reset on Skoda Kamiq you should find the related video.

Trip is on the bottom left, just sayin' Odometer is bottom right but not always visible. This is why I find your problem a bit odd. The display needs to refresh every time the odomoter is to be displayed. If, as you have been told, the car knows it's actual mileage then the display not showing correctly is odd. Have you ever had the car plugged in for any sort of diagnostic reading to be done? Some diagnostic tools are very powerful. Also did you buy the car new? There are a number of "cheat" devices that restrict the mileage shown by the odometer.

If the car knows it's mileage then restoring the memory to the odometer should not be that difficult. Before you commit ask exactly what they intend to replace and what assurance you have it will fix the problem. The "cluster" is just like a PC screen, a relatively dumb device! The ECU holds all the data, if the display is "wrong" then this points to a data bus error. Also, dumb question, but are you sure it's not just the trip meter that reset to zero? Depending on how you have the display configured the actual odometer can be hidden and only the trip meter is visible.

Yes, I'd change them before you hit 50,000 miles.

AFAIK there is no alternative part you could retrofit. It might be possible to fit a small led into the housing which might give enough background light.

This sounds pretty normal to me. If your preference is set to Fastest then the Sat Nav will route you to avoid traffic congestion. If your preference is set to Shortest then it'll route you to do that. Note shortest is more than often also the longest duration. It's easy to confuse the Sat Nav. Essential that you halt route guidance before programming a new route or changing preference. Best thing is to have the destinations stored as favourites, then you can just select the one you want. Note if you don't follow the sat nav directions exactly it'll re-calculate as you drive with the intention of getting you where you said you wanted to go. So in your case if you retraced your steps it would have been fine and would have figured out what was happening eventually. (OK, it's annoying when it keeps telling you to "turn around when possible" but just press on and it'll catch up eventually.)

It might be the garage forgot to reset the light. If so you are best returning to the garage that did the servicing work for you. They will be able to reset the light. 5 minute job.

The LED's will be brighter than most halogens but the beam is also better focussed.

The car was not new to the current owner. I can well imagine a car, in particular if on Motability, wearing out a clutch in 19k miles.

Ask that a "master technician" goes out with you for a test drive. Suggest you drive and then tell them when you hear the sound. "Master Technician" may be a UK term - here it means a technician who has had a lot of Skoda training.

Good news, would try to swerve around Arnold Clark if you can though, too many bad reviews.

Well mine certainly makes a number of noises after I switch off the ignition. Our Golf is the same with similar sorts of noises.

I think you just get the LED headlight and DLR. Also LED rear light. Probably means that the fog lights etc are not LED. Owners manual here might give some clues: Skoda

Do you have Skoda Warranty or do you have 3rd party Warranty?

No idea - sorry.

I think you are best returning to the supplying dealer if this an option. (Assuming you bought from a Skoda dealer.) Don't touch Arnold Clark with a bargepole IMHO. The symptoms of over-revving you describe do sound like a clutch issue.

Normally this light is associated with issues with the throttle body. Did the check engine light and the stability control light also come on? Did you notice the engine temperature, was it high? Were you low on fuel? For sure get the car booked in to a garage for a thorough check.

I can't hear anything except the distinct click as the gear leaver moves across the gate.

Well at least you've reported the issue, if the box drops out you have some history.

The packaging in the Kamiq is excellent. You can compare all the key dimensions for passengers on the Skoda web site.

The Kamiq is a Polo sized car (similar platform). OK, I know it does not look that way. I came out of the Q3 (same basic platform as Golf) into the Kamiq and the slight shrinking in size is noticeable. I was looking at Q2's as well but silly prices. Kamiq boot is big though. The deciding factor for me was the weight the 1.5 engine had to lug about. An easy 44 mpg from the Kamiq is a winner. I'm still of the opinion that the price on the Kamiq is on the high side.

As mentioned, Service history is the fist thing to check. If there is no documented service history then walk away. (Modern, dealer serviced Skoda's have an electronic service record.) At 40,000 miles the must do service items will be oil and filter changes (hopefully 3), air filter changes (hopefully 2) and spark plugs (1 change will be fine) If this all checks out then the test drive should tell you everything else. Look out for any jerky gear changes or hesitations during acceleration and any funny noises. Get a look at the brake pads if you can. Look at the tyres, are the a 2nd or 3rd tier brand?, That can tell you a lot. Price seems very high for a 40,000 mile car. Autotrader suggests you should be able to buy newer with half the miles for £16k

One more thing, are you sure you are depressing the clutch to fully disengage it? Two possibilities, either you are pressing a bit too much or not enough. This is a longshot and I think going to the dealer is the best bet.

There are, I think, two possibilities: The gear shift linkages might need adjusting. The actual shift lever mechanism might need some lubrication. The best thing is to take it to the dealer and demonstrate the problem on a test drive. If they tell you it is fine then ask them to note the problem on the cars electronic service record. This way if the problem gets worse you have a record of reporting it before the car is 1 year old.