Aldfort

Skomaz I thought the door only had 2 skins inner and outer. Is there a frame in the middle as well?

It is possible the water can enter around the top of the door and then run down to the bottom. When it gets to the bottom it hopefully runs out of the car but that is not certain. The first thing to do is find out where it's getting in, so you have to test all around the edge of the door to find out if there are places the seal does not quite touch the door. The next thing to check is to make sure it's not the door filling up with water. There should be little weep holes in the bottom of the door. If they are blocked then the water will overflow into the car. The fact you said it happens when the car is on a side slope makes me think it's the seal rather than a blocked weep hole. There does not have to be a documented issue - you have an issue, that is enough. Also if you reported the leak before the warranty ended then they still have an obligation to repair it. You should also make contact direct with Skoda customer service.

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This is almost exactly what I said, I assume you meant to reply to the previous poster in this thread.

It is clear water is running around the seal and rather than draining outwards it's draining into the car. Since this happens when the car is parked on a slope then it shows the seal is not doing it's job. Look all around the door and check that the door is in contact with the seals around the window. It is likely the water is running down the door from higher up until it finds its way past the seal. You can place a thin string in various position around the door and then close the door. Try pulling the string, if it moves with ease then the seal is not making good contact in that area. (You'll need a friend to help you hold one end of the string.) Or you can ask the garage to do a smoke test. This involves putting a (harmless) smoke generator in the car and looking for where the smoke comes out, this will likely be the area where the water is getting in.

I don't want to be a killjoy but Skoda themselves say that the primary way the speed limit is shown is by the forward facing camera in the car seeing the speed limit signs. I fully agree that the car seems to be able to make use of other data to show the speed limit. I've always assumed this was embedded in the map data given the speed with which it's able to make changes. I have doubts that it's done via real time tracking of position and sending signal to the car via the OCU. I am happy to be corrected if you can point to an authoritative VAG article.

Some owners have reported being able to fit the back up camera without coding. there are kits on Amazon but be careful, some seem to work and other not.

The slider should control the instrument lighting brightness. The infortainment screen brightness is controlled via the headlights. (it dims, or should, when they are on.) However you might just need to re-boot your system to make the brightness control work. Hold down the power button until the infortainment turns off, a clock normally appears, KEEP holding it until the infotainment restarts. (If you have a touch scree then just keep your finger on the virtual button.)

The problem with proximity sensors is they need to sense a change normally in capacitance. If they don't then they don't work. I use the deadlock function rather than KESSY but that needs the door handle to "see" my finger when I touch it. Mostly it works but not always. When it doesn't work the system becomes momentarily confused. For those unfamiliar with this semi-secret feature, lock the car with the blipper, after not less than 2 but not more than 5 seconds touch the dimple on the door handle. You will hear a second actuation of the locks. The car will now not respond to the proximity of the key, you need to press the blipper to unlock it.

Nope, not had this little gremlin yet. I'd take it back to the dealer, you reported the issue within the warranty period and it was not fixed!

@skoda998 - You need to answer the basic question first. Is this the standard, get you to the tyre depot spare or is it an actual 16 inch wheel and tyre? Either way it's not the same as your 17 inch wheels so it's not for driving miles at high speed. You might get an ABS warning but it's unlikely. Your car has differentials (at least one) and fully expects that the wheels will rotate at different speeds. As has been posted the wheel well limits your choice of spare wheel unless you are prepared to have the spare partially deflated to fit in.

The system can be a little sensitive sometimes. Worth checking that there is nothing in front of the sensors life a leaf for example. You'll know that there are separate sensors for this function, nothing to do with the parking sensors.

I keep my driving glasses in mine and the remote for the garage door. The shape is perfect.

Looks like the flap is disconnected at one end.

Another vote for the 1.5 150 PS, seems a strong engine to me.

I think you have answered your own question in your first paragraph. If it's not in the Skoda e-shop then it's not available. Skoda would not miss the chance to make a little money if they could.

Please note: some updates and software configurations are country specific.

You might be able to do it OTA, in the infortainment. Go to check for updates menu and see what you find. Note: if you can do it OTA then follow the instructions carefully and be aware you can't drive the car until the update finishes. Failing that the next best thing is to have a Skoda dealer do it. Skoda discourage DIY solutions but it can be done.

You don't but it's worth a look around the AC pipes with a UV light source. Generally the dye is green. A little green dye on the filling valve will be a clue. When you have it re-gassed then ask if they put dye in the refrigerant, if they say no then ask why not or find somebody who does, this is just basic maintenance stuff that a good garage would do.

If it started again there should be new fault codes. As to induction leaks, ask the garage if they do a smoke test. If they don't then ask them how they find induction leaks.

Sounds like there might be a coding issue. Let's hope the dealer is good with coding. I still think it's worth checking the settings in the infotainment.

Couple of things: You know that to open you simply grasp the door handle rather than touch the sensor? Assuming you KESSY locked the car? You know that if you lock the car with the keyfob and then touch the locking sensor on the doorhandle the car stays locked and can only be unlocked with the keyfob? Your only infotainment menu choices are the unlocking behaviour, either all doors unlock or only driver door (and tailgate) unlock. The book helpfully does not tell you about the tailgate!

Nope, I just opened the App, apart from a software update nothing like you describe. My app was "asleep" on my phone as I don't really use it that much.

I'm going to chip in again despite the fact I said I would not. The data in the last post tells you everything you need to know. In general the data is showing you the slow decline of the battery, it's a shame you don't have the data going back to when the battery was brand new. You'd be able to graph out it's charge holding capacity from new which would give a clearer picture. BTW - what multi-meter do you have that can measure AMPS at that level?

The first thing I would do is get the AC checked to make sure there is enough refrigerant in the system. Modern AC refrigerants should have a UV dye in them so it's easy for a garage to check for leaks with a UV light source. Also in order to refill the system the garage needs to put it under vacuum, if they can't pull a vacuum then there is a leak. A "visual check" will be a waste of money, better to ask for a check and re-gas.