CianKT

Just get some Michelin, I put e-primacy as the dealer had them on promotion lasted about 50000 miles, tried Goodyear Eagle F1's as there was a set on when I got the car and had been on for ages, they only lasted about 20000 miles, currently have primacy 4's on and they're lasting similar to the e-primacy. All tyres felt great and I can see why they're highly rated.

I only found out about it on Instagram, I'm planning on replacing it when I do my timing belt as the crankshaft seal is leaking so it's a while you're there job

Lifespan all depends on location, I would assume with Australia being a more dusty place compared to the typically wet Britain or Ireland wipers would burn out quicker, but 12 months would be a typical lifespan for most places

I always use Bosch Aerotwin's can't complain with them, shame they only last around a year, but I live out in the country so I get stuck behind anything especially in wet roads where it's not actually raining

Might be worth trying a tank of premium diesel to clean out the fuel line and injectors, or trying fuel from a different place. Checking tyre pressure will help, ensure it's on the low load pressure unless you are towing or carrying a lot of weight.

My wife has something similar on her Hyundai ix20, I think it is due to the power steering motor bushing being destroyed a very common issue on Hyundai's, but could be worth looking at the power steering system as I believe it's electric on the Octavia

Knowing the Irish NCT they would fail it for not having a leveller or jet washer, I've heard people with Factory HIDs on Leon's fail for that and they ended up having to convert them to halogens.

First thing is check the voltage with a multimeter. Check the voltage when it's been off for a while, a good battery should be around 12.4-12.6v. If it's low your battery probably is gone but before you replace it check the voltage again with he engine running it should be at 13.8-14.3v, if it's not your alternator is toasty. To replace the battery get the same spec as you have a 70ah EFB type battery you can upgrade to an AGM battery but it requires a few more steps to install. The battery will need coding to the car so the car knows how to safely charge it. If you go to Halfords and pay for instillation they should code the battery to the car if you don't have the tools.

TRW seems to be a very commonly recommended brand here, they're more than likely the OEM supplier for your brake system. I've used Brembo and Feroddo both seem to be good had no issues with them.

I've seen so many videos about people replacing DPF's and not addressing the original issue, this could well be the case that the previous owner never fixed the issue that caused the original DPF to require replacement

I would leave it until it starts playing up or acting differently

I have Halfords Advanced 3 tonne ratchet stands paired with a Sip Industrial 2.5 tonne jack you can get plenty of height off the ground

More than likely the pump, have you got VCDS or something like OBD Eleven that can read VAG codes? My pump failed recently and found there was a code logged B126113 windshield washer open circuit

When I got my Octavia there were Dunlop's on the front and Goodyear eagle F1 on the rear, the Dunlop's were gone and the dealer replaced them with cheap Mazzini, they lasted 25000km, put Michelin e-primacy on them and they lasted 75000km, tried Goodyear eagle F1 all around and they only lasted about 35000km, currently have Michelin primacy 4's all around, so far the fronts are at about 35-40000km and still have plenty of life in them, very happy with them considering they're only €50 a tyre more than something cheap.

Best advice is probably go to Skoda-parts.com, create an account, then you can add you vin and it will grey out all non fitting parts, also it will give you the OEM parts numbers so you can fire it into the likes of euro car parts. You must be looking up the wrong part numbers. Auto-doc are quoting about 100-110 for discs and pads for the front on my 2.0 TDI estate and that's for Brembo, Feroddo and TRW.

OBD Eleven is the best option, gives you all the VW codes, allows you to code in hardware. I had an Autel DIY scanner worked fine but missed so many codes, so many times it came up as no codes. My first OBD Eleven scan gave me something like 15. My brother had an oil pressure light that was coming and going on his Seat arona, he used an Autel scanner no codes, used OBD Eleven found an intermittent oil pressure fault and a digital dash control module failure.

I have the exact same kit listed, I think I paid €50 for it from an online motor factor, used it a few times had no issues with I, if I remember rightly the one for the MK3 is somewhere in the middle

My 2017 estate has a perforation that you have to press in in order to be able to lift up the boot

Obd eleven is the way to go, it has VW approval

Probably best to ask the MK4 forum not the MK3, but the hose may have popped loose from the washer pump. Probably best to go back to the dealer as it's only 5 weeks old.

I had a Nissan Note years ago that did something similar, turned out it was missing firing but not throwing up a check engine, root cause was some damaged wiring. Is your scanner capable of detecting VW codes? If not you should probably get a scan done for VW specific codes I had a middle of the road Autel unit but as soon as I got an obdeleven unit I found over 20 VW specific hidden codes

I've ordered from them a few times, only had an issue once and that was the fault of FedEx who delivered to the wrong address. Be aware they are based in the Czech Republic so you will get hit with tax and duty in the UK. Personally I use the approach of what they recommend, generally they suggest OEM suppliers like Sachs, Bilstein or Monroe, so I would go with one of them as it is cheaper and more than likely the OEM parts is made by them, the only exception I use to this is if it is something that communicates with the computer then you're better off going OEM.

It appears they're not specific, the description says "gas-fluid shock absorber for the front axle, diameter: 54.6, it is recommended for them to be changed in pairs, order 2pcs" A lot of OEM parts have multiple parts numbers it looks like it's coincidence it has lh in the part number. From my experience with skoda-parts if it is side specific they say it in red and have a link to it's opposite side in the description.

Have a look on Skoda-Parts.com, create an account and you can enter your vin and then they block off all the options that are not compatible with your vin.

Sounds like a bad handbrake switch