MickA

I did mention that too in my first post 👍

As my earlier post, I'm going for a regas on mine, having similar problems but the temp gauge seems ok. It's just when I try to use the aircon in temps lower than around 2°, windows fog up. Got a local aircon man works the Derby area to contact, pointless ATM as to get the aircon fully checked and regassed the temps aren't ideal. I'm waiting until at least maybe end of next week, temps supposedly reaching 8° here.

I'm having my aircon checked soon, when the temperature rises. Same engine as yours but a Toledo. It's not as efficient as it used to be, well never been regassed in 8 years🤔 and it's the first winter I've had problems clearing the fogged up windows. For one the aircon will not work at temps below 3°, that's normal according to experts and the handbook, well if I remember below 4° it says there. A check with my car suggests the heat is getting through to the inside of the car so have discounted the stat or a sensor at fault, that's without the aircon on. Have you got a coolant temp reading in the MFD, mine reads ok (around high 80's) warmed up?

If it's the car on Autotrader on 79k miles in Hampshire (grey) then that's definitely shows as a 1.2TSi (105) so 16v. Up to 2013 models with this engine have had reported chain wear/noise issues, after that i believe some improvement was made. I have a Toledo, same engine bought new 2014 with the 16v engine. It has 32k miles on it now and runs sweet. I've found regular oil changes (Castrol Edge 5w 30 LL) is keeping things well lubed re the chain. Also starting from cold immediately can produce a slightly prelonged chain rattle on start up. What I do is turn on the ignition and wait about 5 secs then turn the key, no rattle, correct me if I'm wrong but must be the oil getting to the top of the engine on start up, less rattle. Works for me anyway. I say regular oil changes, I do both my cars at around 5k miles approx, I'm a bit too keen on stuff like this but at around £38 per oil/filter change it's the peace of mind to keep the engine running smoothly.👍

A simple one for you, get your battery checked. I had lights appear on the dash,eml, epc, and traction control lights, weird. This was random but began to get more regular and each time also went into limp mode. Codes read said it was the throttle position sensor, it was telling fibs my mechanic said. He's seen it before on VAG group cars. A simple check told him the battery was not up to the job. I have stop/start but mines a Toledo (same engine and electrical basically) he ordered a new battery fitted it and car's been fine ever since. He told me even though the battery starts the car, everything works electric wise there's a drop in signal back to the throttle position sensor from the battery telling the cars electrical system there's not enough power available. Anyways one new stop/start battery later all happy. Not saying yours is the problem but get it professionally checked.

I'll find out which fuse point I used and let you know. Got a Toledo too with the Nextbase hardwire kit although mine is the 2014 toledo. Edit... Attached pic of position of my dash cam hardwired position. As shown in the pic position 11 remembering now I used the door mirror control fuse to piggy back to. Perfect on and off with ignition, been installed like this for 3 years.👍

I'll find out which fuse point I used and let you know. Got a Toledo too with the Nextbase hardwire kit although mine is the 2014 Toledo, shouldn't be much difference.

I use the aircon all year, have it set on auto (climate control) and just adjust temp for heat (winter) cool (summer) and never use recirculate function. Had the doors fill with water when new, now cleared and never had any problems with misting, well only after initial start off in winter, it soon clears. BTW have the Toledo, more less the same but SEAT.

I was only saying yesterday my Toledo (1.2TSi) is the best car I've owned. For purchase price and reliability just can't be beaten. Into 8 years of ownership, costs apart from the usual servicing (I now do DIY services) one set of tyres, a new battery and 1 set of wiper blades. With 30k on the clock it's had an easy life and I would find it difficult to replace it, it's just used as a daily runaround as you can tell from the mileage. Having said that I did look very closely at changing around 3 years ago and the MG ZS was high up there as a must go see. I did actually at our local dealer, I went home and felt hmm! I'm hanging on a little longer to the Toledo. Then surprisely I could have picked up the MG for between £12-£15k model dependent but the trade in on the Toledo's were absolute pants but I knew that. Went and bought myself a newer MX-5 instead😁 still have the Toledo of course. Keep us posted on how the MG plays out, still like the looks of the newer ones, maybe will take another look one day.🤔

Sorry I can't help with the 18" wheel question. Since posting in the thread about tyres I've now changed (finally) my awful Bridgestones to what consider an all-round better tyre, the Kumho PS71. I also have these on my MX-5 and anyone who's chosen tyres before for that model will know how fussy the car can be, re handling etc and tyre choice. Glad to say although the Bridgestone were well past there best re age the Kumho are fantastic in comparison. An understatement to say it's transformed the way the car handles and mostly the noise levels have most notably dropped in comparison to the very noisy Bridgestones.

Worth a shot telling you about my problem. I didn't go to the dealer for help, luckily the local garage mechanic was on the ball with these VAG cars. He's had a few in with similar problems, tests the battery straight off, solved mine without any further parts needed. The throttle position sensor alone would have been £112, then fitting which the code showed faulty, bet the dealer would have fitted a new one straight off. Anyways hope you get sorted, I take it it's a diesel, I'm not familiar with those I'm afraid.?

Did any of the folk you mentioned check the state of the battery? I had this on my petrol 1.2tsi, limp mode and all lights on the dash. Kept reoccurring, the battery was dying, wouldn't hold a full charge. Although it would start the car ok the battery needs to tell the electrical systems in the car it's healthy enough. If those systems get a signal that all not well with the battery it throws up the lights and codes hence limp mode too. That's a pretty basic description told to me by my local mechanic who solved my problem more or less straight off. He did read the codes it threw up and read throttle position sensor at fault. No such problem, the battery was below par. New battery and running sweet again, nearly 3 years ago that happened on a 4 year old battery at the time.

Sounds like it went into limp mode to me. I had exactly the same, the car suddenly lost power as if the brakes had been applied. I managed to get off the dual carriageway and perform a shut down then start up again and it was fine for a few miles before happening again. Only difference with mine it threw up dash lights indicating the traction control was at fault. If you haven't get the car hooked up to a diagnostic at the garage and go from there.

If you are using/burning that amount of oil after such a short journey you would definitely know about it. Either the smell of it burning it away and terrible running of the engine and smoking, or you have more than a few drops of oil from under the car in the places that you park each time. Which one could it be?

Seems like I do a similar mileage to yourself and have a car that has the same kind of use and mileage on it. Mine the 1.2Tsi (105) with 27k miles. Topped that up around 3 weeks ago, only around a teacup full as it was showing just a smidge under the upper mark on the stick. Now it's probably going to be another 1k miles before check it again and going on how it gets used and runs (7 years of ownership) it won't need topping up. I self service so I reckon it uses around half litre of oil in-between services, that's probably done in normal times around 5k miles over 12 months. I didn't service this year only stripped the brakes for servicing, it's covered less than 3k miles since last year. I put in Castrol Magnetec 5w 30 and always (my way for years) check the engine oil level cold (stood overnight) that gives me a true reading on all my cars despite what any manual says. Not saying the manual is incorrect but it works for me the way I do it. I've never owned a car that consumes a great amount of oil, except for a dirty old Vauxhall diesel one time, that had mega mileage on.

Sounds like you have found the culprit (reason for brake and power drop) hope that is the case.👍

Is being or has been replaced? Let's hope it's fixed your problem, no more warning dash lights.👍

Mine's the 1.2Tsi Toledo I had similar happen nearly 3 years ago. The battery was fine but when a proper check was done it was found to be low in power, that was after a long run. In a nutshell it said it needed a throttle position sensor changing, not correct, a new battery fitted and it's been fine ever since. Never took it to a SEAT dealer, my local garage sussed it out, he said they get a few VAG cars in with similar issues, they always start the fault finding process with a battery check.

I serviced my own brakes last week (Toledo) full strip down. Noted last year one rear brake disc (nearside) had a wider rusty lip than the other side, why? Well after the strip down I still don't know why. Same pads discs both sides. Anyways the brakes are working fine but as said in this thread the discs are never shiny shiny always dull and look heavily scored, much different to my Mazda but I am very particular with that it the discs always look new and fresh.

Mine has a slight rattle upon start up, clears after that and purrs like a well oiled sewing machine. It's the 1.2tsi 105 engine. Thought about a swap for the updated model when they were being offered for reduced prices new or pre reg when the Toledo was being discontinued. They had the 1ltr 3 pot engine which some love others probably not so much. Had a 1ltr engine in a Citigo, that was great, loved that car, it ran out of puff though on inclines so had to use the gears a good deal more and the boot space was pitiful. After then needing more back seat room (more grandkids) that was sold and I bought the Toledo.

Yep mine is a keeper now. £30 VED, £190 to insure, 40ish mpg (longer run 50mpg) and the deal breaker, the huge boot space, massive with the rear seats down and it's been used to the max at times.👍

I've got a 14 plate Toledo and it's been great. I'm reluctant to sell it now, having tried about 3 years ago. They are pretty worthless TBH at even 3-4 years old as a trade-in so a 7 year old one won't attract many £'s. Yes I've had the problem with the heater blowing really hot, happened about 4 times, turn off the ignition then on and it resets itself. Now for the last 18 months it's been absolutely fine, I won't touch it whilst it's behaving. I leave the climate on all year, it stays on I never touch it apart from adding more heat in winter, in summer it's set at auto 18 c unless I want a quick blast of cold to the face.😁 It's never been regassed either from new. I self service now, oil changes around 5k miles, it's only on 27k miles. Apart from a new set of tyres, they started to perish and I had an advisory about the fronts outer edge wearing, the only other replaced was the battery. That was picked up by my local garage when the dash threw up a few lights and the engine went into limp mode. He hooked it up to his and it told him the throttle position sensor was faulty. Now just imagine if I'd have took it to SEAT for diagnosis. Anyways he suspected the battery was on its way out because when tested it seemed weak. He was correct, new battery fitted and perfect no more erratic fault codes. It's the perfect runaround for me or distance cruiser, climate control, DAB/navigation cruise control pretty good spec for a car I paid £11.5k for 7 years ago as a pre reg with only 10 miles on the clock. And just to add, I had a little water collect in one front door, fixed it myself and cleared the drain holes, simples.

Once up in the air (jacked) try whacking them from the rear with rubber mallet, leave the nuts on though but loosened.. Another I've done before is loosen the nuts as above and lower the car to the ground, it may break the seal wheel to hub. Second option is risky I know but worked for me. In both cases I would make sure the jack I used was sturdy not the flimsy side jack and preferably use an axle stand if going even partially under the car. If this doesn't take you fancy or beyond you get a pro garage to loosen them off for you.

I put up with those Bridgestone's for 6 years, 6 years was far too long. Finally changed for Kumhos last year, what a relief, should have done it sooner.

Mine ticks over quietly, like a well oiled sewing machine but give it some revs when pulling away they can sound noisy, it's the nature of the beast. If you've had a Citigo you'll know what I mean, I had one too previously, they can sound throaty on acceleration. Just keep the oil fresh, I change mine every 5k miles 5w 30 Castrol fully synthetic and I'll be sweet. Re the spare wheel, I've got 16" alloys but a spare wheel in steel 15" size, all lovely extras that come with the Toledo. Guessing you wouldn't get more than a 15" in the wheel well of the Rapid or Toledo anyways. Toledo has the same 1.2tsi engine.