peter_k

On Saturday the car started the same fault as the OP but on the n/s. After 3 dealer "repairs" to the o/s chrome strip I thought a DIY repair was in order. The strip is easily removed - bottom edge first. Easily straightened by hand (assume the black trim is the same metal), surprised how much "bend/distortion" - well past the point where the strip left the seal. Replaced the trim as far back as possible on the rear door starting from the rear edge of the door. Hook the strip onto the top "rib" of the seal and after about 6" in place start pressing in on the bottom edge whilst pressing in and down on the top edge and work forward ensuring the "pushed in" bottom edge is kept well behind the hooked on top edge. I could see no visible change at the front /back door join but it hasn't occurred since.

I've not the knowledge to answer your question but it would help when experts read your post if you provided more info such as gears that produce the noise (there are two clutches) , noise coasting in "eco", relationship to noise and road speed - in effect anything that "changes the noise"

The Which test results show results of tests on "apps requiring an "always-on" data connection" and that would indicate that they tested Google Maps with no off-line maps. Quotes from the Google link I posted: If your Internet connection is slow or absent, Google Maps will use your offline maps to give you directions and where there is no data connection: You can get driving directions offline, but not transit, bicycling, or walking directions. In your driving directions, you won't have traffic info, alternate routes, or lane guidance. You also can't modify routes like avoiding tolls or ferries.

The Google Maps app has "offline maps" in the settings :- https://support.google.com/maps/answer/6291838 and once an area is downloaded using free wifi then mobile data use is minimal -traffic info. The maps last for at least a month and prompt for "update".

This is from https://www.mot-testing.service.gov.uk/documents/manuals/class3457/Section-4-Lamps-reflectors-and-electrical-equipment.html#section_4.4 Vehicles first used on or after 1 April 1986 must be fitted with an amber side repeater indicator on each side. The side repeater can be part of the front direction indicator if it has one of the following: a wraparound lens marked either with an ‘E’ mark in a circle or an ‘e’ mark in a rectangle with a number 5 above it an amber light coming through the front lens when viewed from 1m to the side of the rear bumper I also thought that broken and repaired lenses were an automatic MOT failure until I read You must assess repairs to lamps for security, colour, light output and durability. (I also thought that an MOT was the condition at test so why does the tester have to decide if the glue used will fail at an unspecified time in the future) Looking for the testing manual reminded me of the "MOT horrors" pages at https://mattersoftesting.blog.gov.uk/category/horror-stories/

Without looking it up - I think the old MOT required working side repeaters unless the front indicator lens wraps around the front wing and the indicator flash can be seen when stood in some specified position towards the back and away from the side of the car

I would think the "Convenience Consumer"(sic?) screen would show heated windscreen as an active entry

I've just wasted spent an hour trying to find the reasons. If anyone else wants to lose the will to live then I believe the issue relates to The Wireless Telegraphy (Mobile Repeater) (Exemption) Regulations 2018 that came into law on 12/4/18 that required compliance with UK Interface Requirements 2102 2102.1 to 2102.2 Licence exempt static indoor and low gain mobile phone repeaters. Details of the repeater in the Superb is in https://ws.skoda-auto.com/OwnersManualService/Data/en/Superb_3V/11-2017/Manual/Superb/B8_Superb_TechnicalChange.pdf?_ga=2.74127765.663908371.1524383008-f5137a56-13fc-4db7-b4d3-335ebe2419ba Search the pdf for LTE to find frequencies used and 4G-Systems to find the repeater certificate page.

@Sagalout Thanks for the link. I'd found https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/447852-chrome-trim-coming-away-from-rubber-seal/ but that made no mention of cutting the seal hence the new thread. There are references to Technical Service Bulletins TSB and Technical Product Information TPI in the posts - Are there 2 sorts of "guides"? There is also time differences in the posts 2 or 1 day(s) and 1hour. Would it be cynical to assume "if the 1hr stanley knife doesn't work then book vehicle in for 1 day to replace seals"

Car has been to the dealers twice to address wind noise and bent chrome trim at the front and back door "contact point". I thought it was all resolved until today I gave a lift to a person with severe walking difficulties. Whilst driving I was asked "Can you hear the wind noise from the top of the window?" and then as they struggled to get out of the car "Have you been hacking the rubber trim ?" Attached photo is looking at inner side of top corner of n/s front door Is cutting a strip off the inner side of the door edge seal the correct fix? For the first "fix" I was told that they needed the car for a day to allow adhesive to dry and the second visit I could have the car back immediately provided I was prepared to remove the tape holding the seal until the glue dried. I should have suspected something when I got the car back after a 1hr wait and there was no tape but I was looking at the chrome/rubber "joints" .

Fire door "trade body" site has useful info including fitting http://www.bwfcertifire.org.uk/

I believe this is a recent bug reported at the end of March. Copied from https://support.google.com/androidauto/forum/AAAA6SY52nIju86cOXGtUI/?hl=en Scott Papak Is there a way to lock 720P? Every time i exit out it goes back to the default resolution. Emil Borconi Szedressy 3/29/18 Expert - Top Contributor Emil Borconi Szedressy Got broken with AA 3.1.5, if you want it to stick revert to 3.0 Lawrence - Android Auto team 3/29/18 Expert - Google Employee Lawrence - Android Auto team Hi Scott, this is a bug that was introduced in 3.1.5 - we're planning on fixing it in our next build so that it goes back to being sticky. Given that it's under "developer options" it's not fully tested yet and may have occasional issues. Thanks!

Is the sealant applied around the edges? My experience on another car was that washing the tailgate caused water with dirt and grit to collect under the strip that would then slowly drain over the next hour leaving dirt streaks.

Product "home page" http://www.loctite.co.uk/loctite-4087.htm?nodeid=8802621292545 . Technical spec should enable any automotive paint supplier to offer an equivalent or try the Loctite/Henkel stockist finder at http://www.loctite.co.uk/dealer-search-4104.htm

No Rolls Royce owners out there to preach the benefits of their "power reserve %" meter over a tachometer?

Apologies I was using wind chill rather than the rate of heat loss for simplicity - Wikipedia "The effect of wind chill is to increase the rate of heat loss". My explanation was making the point that the rate of heat loss by the bonnet at say 70mph is far greater than at 30mph and therefore the temperature of the bonnet may very well rise on leaving a motorway. Without a physical check I thought the washer supply enters the bonnet by the n/s hinge and runs within the bonnet to the washer jets so yes its not the engine compartment but steel conducts heat

My explanation, without discussing the screen wash concentration is at "motorway" speeds the wind chill would keep the bonnet at -3 but having left the motorway with a hot engine the under bonnet temperature would rapidly rise and defrosting occured

Here's a link to the 11/2017 approved wheels for the Skoda range http://az749841.vo.msecnd.net/sitesdede/alv1/b8a289a9-af37-4929-9b40-e1ec41c73f88/Serienreifen_Skoda_2017_11.447eaa1ababd9443d6340fa003dfafb9.pdf

See Engine revs without foot on accelarator

I've just had my car serviced by a dealer. The price difference between what the dealer quoted and then booking the service via http://www.skoda.co.uk/owners/service-and-maintenance/online-service-booking/online-service-booking/ at the same dealer saved £50!!!!! Just tried the Skoda site and using the "don't know the registration" option for a 3yr old 2l petrol Octavia (no "model" variants) at Simpsons Preston it offered me: Interim Service (3 years +) £159.00 Major Service (3 years +) £279.00

Assuming I'm reading about the same engine then the "anti stall" explanation is a little suspect. VW say this: The four-cylinder engine simultaneously impresses with even quieter running and a level of pulling power even from low speeds that facilitates fuel-efficient driving in high gears. The maximum torque of 200 Newton metres is available from just 1,400 rpm and remains so across the entire engine speed range up to 4,000 rpm https://www.volkswagen-media-services.com/en/detailpage/-/detail/Offering-technical-refinements-new-15-TSI-delivering-96-kW130-PS-now-available-to-order-for-Golf-and-Golf-Variant/view/5403505/7a5bbec13158edd433c6630f5ac445da?p_p_auth=g0xJXYiH.

The range variation may have nothing to do with the tank size but instead the coding of the vehicle. Before my car's adblue errors and new software I used to have an adblue range display going to 8 - 9K now I think 7K is the maximum value I've seen. I have no idea if the difference is due to a re-coding of the amount injected or a recalibration of the level sensor to ensure the engine is "locked" before the tank runs dry. AFAIK sunlight is the primary cause of adblue breaking down. Yara (claim to be the world's biggest adblue manufacturer) say: "If buying packaged AdBlue we will deliver AdBlue to you in sealed packs. If the storage instructions are followed, then AdBlue can be stored for up to a year. If you need to store AdBlue for longer or in difficult conditions, eg a combine harvester then it is best to drain the AdBlue first or to analyse the AdBlue to ensure it remains within the specification needed." And another bit of info "It is possible for AdBlue to freeze at -11°C, so it is important that you use a storage area that is not below this temperature. If AdBlue has frozen, it can be reused when it has thawed as it will return to its original state."

If you look at this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZUK9m1TUKHA at about 10s in you will see "wheels turning in opposite directions" . The electric motor (engine) at the top isn't turning. The left hand "wheel" is being turned and you will see the RH wheel rotating the opposite direction. Advance the video to see the difference when the "drive from the engine " is applied and how the wheels can be stopped

@Pidge_Sportline If you want a semi permanent solution and minimal exposed wiring I would suggest you search Google for 12v to 5v converters along with desired USB socket/plug type. Examples: Car Auto DC 12V to DC 5V 3A 15W Hard Wired Step Down Converter Power Supply Dual USB Female DC 12V to 5V Power Converter Micro USB Right Angle Shape Alternative solution: I presume you are installing a "portable 3G/4G wirless router" (if that's the right name) . I think the Skoda USB ports can supply 1A and are ignition switched. You can get "power only USB cables" (or cut the data lines in a std cable)

You do know that a usb dongle expects 5v? Please don't take the post as "being clever" I was concerned that there was no mention of any "12v to 5v electronics"