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Is that the rotary knob on your car? This is on eBay. Second hand seem more expensive! GENUINE VW CADDY POLO T5 T6 SEAT SKODA FABIA SEAT ADJUSTMENT KNOB 6R0881671D-NEW

I know its unlikely but are you SURE you added petrol and not diesel? I would expect what you have claimed as a fault, then! Check your fuel receipt, if you have it. thomasaspin, good point although my point was more generic, suggesting not to rely too greatly on an added source. It always seems better to have a directly connected, fully charged unit, rather then a jump-start. Plus, although I am most likely wide of the mark, the OP could have been referring to a small, car derived van and not a large lugger.

Yeah, I missed the later comment on looking at the air filter. I agree with the battery comment, too. It always seems better having a good battery, to trying to jump start. Not the same animal, I know but I saw a cabbie trying to jump start a seven seater vehicle from an oldish Toyota Yaris. The Yaris most likely had a tiny-winy battery compared to the car it was trying to start and despite raving it up quite a bit, the bigger car just would not start. It was an auto, with electric doors, digital dash, etc. It Just didn't wanna know!

top picture is new, left, lower picture is old left. top picture is new right, lower picture is old right. Notice the longer "Tang" On the older version. They snap. The later version has shorter "Tang", which fits more snugly, with a "Click", on to the pins/lugs of the boot lining. The part supposedly fits the estate version, too but I cannot quantify that. They definitely fit my hatchback. You might also notice I snapped a small pin on both the old ones as I removed them.

I would concur with UrbanPanzer, here. Otherwise it could be the switches but the wiring is usually the first place to look, if the fuses are fine.

Although I am not familiar with the VRS, I have read that they are very susceptible to incorrect grade/gapped plugs, etc so are they correct in both these areas? Have you also changed the air filter and oil/filter? They may not stop it from firing up but after that long off the road, I would do them prior to driving anyway! To leave a car such as this standing, was asking for trouble, really and I would be more surprised to see it start and run well, rather then cause issues.

I have now fitted the clips and found the "Difference" Seems to make the clips better, as the later type go round the posts in the boot liner, with a tight little push on, rather then more or less "Balance" on. This means the shelf may stay in place better, if slightly knocked when loading the boot. The way the later casting as made has a sort of expandable gap that will flex better, so fit better, once on. I will try to put up a picture of both versions soon. They were just a little fiddly to fit and also to remove the old ones but worth it if yours are broken, too. Re-assembly, I used a little clamp, like a welders/metal fabricators one I had from when I used to do dry-lining. You could also use a small G-clamp, to slowly squeeze the part bask on. Use a cloth to cover the new plastic so as not to mark it and it may well pay to warm the plastic a little, with a hair drier or a cup of hot water, prior to fitting. Coming off required a pair of screwdrivers, one to lever a little, then the other to hold or lever a bit more. If you break the outer part, that will be ok but try to take care of the inner, though they are of softer, less snap-able plastic. The following numbers are the part numbers. The later outer codes ending in an (F) replaced my version, which ended in an (E). 5J6867377D is left, inner. 5J6867378D is right, inner. 5J6867377F is left, outer. 5J6867378F is right, outer.

Some people change many rubber mounts for better quality stuff, such as Powerflex. There is supposedly ONE mount they recommend not to swap unless off road/tracking. Too harsh, I think. I believe it is one of the engine mounts. Worn drop links are often replaced with Meyle heavy duty (HD) ones and they carry a four year warranty. On ebay, they are cheaper then the main dealers normal ones, too!

Hi, I have sen on occasions, people mention they have snapped their clips that hold the rear parcel shelves on, on their Fabias, so wanted to impart a little help. I am not referring to the pegs, in the bootl lining but the clips on the actual shelf. Having seen four piece kits for around £23 and then single pieces from around £10, up, I approached my local dealer to ask about the actual dealers price. Now, the clips usually fail due to the curved lug part, snapping and/or fracturing and each side, left and right, is made of two parts. They kind of sandwich the shelf, when fitted. Anyway, it is usually the outer part that fails so the inner part is usually not needed but basically, they are the same price for either inner or outer, left or right piece and you may well be surprised to find the main dealer price is actually LESS then £2 per piece! I have ordered and purchased both left and right outer, along with one of those silicone screen wash funnels caps, which is a different issue. So, if you need the part, ask the main dealer and purchase from them. They may well also post, if you are not local. My dealer is reasonably local but posts at this Covid time, small pieces and is actually posting the filler cap as it was not in stock, for free. (Post free). The clips are very slightly different from original fitment, which seems to be a revised version so I am hoping they won't snap again. It was due to the slight difference and the fact that one was snapping, the other just a hairline crack, that I purchased two, as they were so cheap! I can list the part numbers if anyone needs to replace theirs as the numbers are located on the inside of the part and are unreadable unless you remove it. If you do remove it, take care not to snap the retaining pegs as they are fragile, especially in the cold weather but then, you will only remove them if one is damaged anyway!

There are companies out there, who remove the internals of the DPF, clear the software, etc and charge around the price of a forced regen... I am NOT suggesting you do this but if done properly, it is almost impossible to detect and as long as the car is serviced well and you use a good quality product such as Cataclean just prior to a fresh MOT, it won't cause an MOT fail. I am in NO WAY suggesting you do this, just giving you some information!

Hi Biggaz... I see you mentioned reverting back to the Dance stereo, did you recode that ok? Does it actually work now? Did you actually try to disconnect the battery for a while, then re-connect and turn everything back on again? It does clearly seem you have messed the codes up or something by swapping the audio but I hope its a glitch, not a b1tch, to sort. Have you tried to remove the Dance again, to be sure to connect everything properly, too? You might have missed something.

Carlston is correct in saying the Greenline is lowered although I believe it was by 20mm. It was a part go their efforts to lower drag and increase MPG. They also had different size, lower resistance tyres, a larger under tray and a few with cutting details, along with different gear ratios. I would stick to the proper lowered size suspension, if I were you and needed to replace it. After that, you may well want to go down the "Sound deadening" Route with those kits or sticky mats that are available as by cutting sound, you will find the drive less fatiguing, particularly if you drive long distances or for extended periods. Generally, I find the car to be reasonably comfortable with the biggest gripe perhaps as it being a bit harsh if you hit speed bumps/potholes etc too fast/hard. This is more down to observations and driving style, which only you can improve! Plusher, quality shocks will help though, if you have the budget but if driving poorly, they will also become horrible in a short space of time. Standard shocks on most street cars are a compromise between comfort and durability, and of course, cost!

I would try what Sepulchrave suggested as they seem very informative ob this subject but I did want to mention... You state you have had "No service" From around 29K to 105K, if you mean to the gearbox, fine but if you mean to the car as a whole, you are seriously missing very important oil changes, at every 10K. Now you may well be doing them but if not, you are asking for long term trouble and big expense! These cars are very susceptible to the use of wrong grade oil or no oil changes. They need to be done religiously, along with the oil filter. Many other things should be done too but missing an oil change is asking for trouble!

Thats fair enough, then e-roottoot. You would be surprised by how many peeps still insist on slamming down the gas of a manual gearbox, to slow, though. Then they wonder why the gearbox has teeth like Shane MacGowan!

Thats clearly a fault... Perhaps someone wired up the wires the wrong way round!

Yeah, I saw the photos and its exactly the same issue I had...I called them lugs and you called them pegs... Potatoes/potAtoes, if you see what I mean. The lower pegs are the same size, as they are designed so you can lower the shelf and put something bigger on top without obscuring the window so in theory, you could even carefully remove those and fit hem in th upper spaces, so as to have a useful shelf. I would also suggest some form of modelling putty, such as Sugru, where you could knead it, push some into the hole, squashing it round the back of the panel and then keep building it out, to form the shape you want. A little bit of patience should get the result and you could most likely file it down a little, if it was made just a little large, to get the right size. Again, the lowers could help with this. Let the putty set, prior to trying out the shelf. I mentioned Sugu as it is a rubber type putty and comes in black, among other colours. The only issue is I think it needs a little sunlight to cure. Not heat, just light so probably a UV type of thing. This should be ok if you leave the car in a sunny place, with the shelf on the lower pegs. I might just get a photo of the job I did up tomorrow, if I can. You will then see what I did to my car. I did still have the pegs, though so try looking in your boot, especially in the lower part, where the spare wheel or tyre inflator may have been. It will be so much easier if you found the bits. Oh, Also, if you are nimble, you can also jst about get to the inside of the holed area with say, a screwdriver or thin tool or even with your fingers perhaps, from th slot where the rear seatbelt comes out. This may help when it comes to doing the job as removing the panels is a PITA.

Also likely is a damaged switch but its less likely then the wiring. It all too often comes back to those!

It does sound like a loom issue, which is very common. Check all the little wires in both front door bellows, closely for fractures or snapped wires. Try testing the windows after setting the auto function, then just turn the car off, remove key and reinsert key, testing them. Then try the same with the addition of opening the door(S). Then try the same with open and closing, then locking, wait a min, unlocking. Basically, try to see where or what makes them fail and what allows the function to stay without resetting. You may or may not know, you can also reset them by using the window switch auto function by pressing and holding it down, once fully open hold a few seconds, then raise fully and hold again. You may find which window seems more faulty by doing that as one may function ok, one may need resetting. Still, my guess is a broken or near broken wire that needs fixing.

Not wanting to sound negative but you just made yourself look like a p155 p00r foreign driver, who drives like a muppet in a climate they know little about! If you have no experience of rain and snow, I suggest you stick to stock brakes and vehicles and perhaps take some extra driver training with the money you would have spent. I truly despair at the state of the standard of driving in this country in the last few decades, despite the actual driving test becoming increasingly tougher, due to poor driver skills. Only today, I watched a video clip, taken by a friend of my daughter, of a driver barely managing to control their vehicle on a snowy hill, where they travelled the wrong side of a traffic island as they struggled to keep the car in check... This was then surpassed by a complete ar5eh0le, trying to overtake on the normal side, who narrowly avoided the first car, then swerved but still hit a parked vehicle, veered across the road just ahead of the car they tried to pass and struck another vehicle on the opposite side, whilst still careering along the road, where I think they managed to strike yet another vehicle. Bigger brakes would not have made any difference to that piece of extremely careless (Or now, car-less ) Driving as the driver was treating the roads the same as if they were NOT EVEN WET, but as if they were dry! I see this all too often, I am afraid.

I think you just lever it off gently. Use a plastic pry tool if you can, or a small flat bladed screwdriver but be careful not to slip and scratch it. The whole gear lever can then be removed by holding one part of the inner plastic clamp and twisting the other bit a bit, like changing a lightbulb. Then the whole gear lever just slips off.

Hi Feebs, did you replace your parts at all? I ask as mine were fractured and then, came completely off. I ended up drilling a 3mm hole through the centre of the lugs that fell off and using those toggle-screws, I think they were M5 sized but can confirm. I lipped the lugs on the screws, fitted the toggles and popped them in to the holes and screwed them up. I am planning on loosening them again soon and adding some glue such as epoxy resin or similar, to increase the strength of the repair but it does seem ok anyway. I think the trick is to glue, and not to screw too tightly so as to pull through the lugs with the screw or even pull the lugs through the holes! A little clean up and perhaps a dab of paint on the screws will finish the job as my toggles were silver. The main thing to do is to take care not to obstruct the rear seat belt mechanism but its quite a simple job really and very hard to spot, without looking for it. I hope this helps as pulling out those panels and replacing them is quite fiddly, on top of the cost of replacements which may just "Go" again, anyway!

Hi Murdockman, regarding the foam stuff you came across, you don't happen to know what it was called, do you?

I know manifolds get hot but I have never seen one glow in normal road use... I would expect someone racing a car to get it that hot (Or even quit prior to ruining things) But not on the road.

Thats a good post... I have just had to replace a regulator on an electric window of a Yaris and after 19 years or so, found the plastic vapour barrier had been cut/ripped out by the bodyshop, who under an insurance claim, removed and fitted a new door skin, when the car was just 6 months old, due to a little ar5eh0le thinking my door looked nicer with his trainer footprint embedded in it! I luckily had some vapour barrier plastic (Visqueen) from when I laid some laminate flooring and some butyl sealant from another water barrier system, so I made up a new vapour barrier to fit. I am surprised not to have found the inside of the door card all wet or mouldy but it was very bad practice not to replace it and I can be sure they charged the insurance company for every little clip and drip of mastic they used! If you find a damaged/removed vapour barrier, take time to fit a new one and seal it nicely.