mrgf

£2-3 thou for a decent set. Even more although you can buy just one, if neccessary!

Have you seen the price of hearing aids?

Do you mean the vent right at the front? Be aware there is also a bit of a gap where it could have slipped down the dash, not the actual vent

Although it'd be free to try that, I think the button to lower the headrest is on the side in the fronts, whilst on the front in the rears. I'll look tomorrow but anyone can check.

..Advisory is still a pass, though. My daughter gets an advisory every MOT for having little bluefish and yellowish prism, type covers inside her headlights, over the bulbs. (Forgot their name) They supposedly help cut glare at night and/or in the rain. The MOT says "Product on the headlight but not severe enough to reduce light output" Or something very similar. As its only a ten min job to pop them in or out, it seemed worth failing once but it never happened.

Although I can't help with this actual issue, I can suggest checking the battery is fully charged and in a strong condition as they hate weak, old units, You could even try leaving it disconnected for 15 mins, then trying everything.

Check the wires in the front door looms for damage.

Another thing to ask, is it manual or auto? Auto's have a tendency to wear brakes quicker due to higher demand to stop (No engine braking) So they will also get hotter too, especially if driven in hilly areas and the brakes are used to correct speed, rather then use the gears to lock down a bit, if you follow my drift!

I would go with Wino on this... I have always found the Fabia's standard brakes to be just fine. The only thing I do, is fit decent branded pads and discs and as I usually do it myself with parts from ECP/CP4L, etc, I change the discs every two pad sets or so. I compared recently, the cost of these parts for the Fabby, against a Sandero Stepway, which is basically a trendy version of the cheapest car available in the UK, where the spares for the Skoda came out quite a bit cheaper! This is most likely due the the VW/Skoda parts being more "common", therefore freely available and purchased in bulk, sold in larger amounts. Back to the original issue, though, I have found the brakes to be great, completely suitable for the weight and power of the car, with enough stopping power, not grabby, no fade in normal use, etc so for regular driving, I think your issue is elsewhere, unless the pads/discs are worn or contaminated or Wino put you on to the right path. I feel I must add, I do have the rear disc set-up and not rear drums but then, I practice emergency stops quite frequently and can see the nose dive, etc where the fronts simply do provide the bulk of the stopping force.

There may well be an issue with the bonnet release as I think some models had a dash warning issue if the bonnet was ajar and also, it may affect the operation of the wipers and possibly the alarm, due to it 'thinking" there is an intrusion... I would get that sorted and see how it goes but I have no idea if the system would operate from the pull handle or-more likely, the actual mechanism at the bonnet lock/catch. I think its ok to spray all that area with something akin to WD40 and then grease it up unless someone tells you otherwise so try to be sure first. I say this as I found out to my downcast, spraying/cleaning the REAR boot pop, can make the mechanism go into spasms and ruin it, making it necessary to replace the electronic unit, at around £30 a-well, pop!

You may need to specify the size, etc as there are many differing sizes. A quick look on eBay revealed a set of 4, with winter tyres, for £50 but prices will range from a tenner, to HOW MUCH!!!!

You have checked the replacement wires were not damaged, I assume? (New, not used). Also, its always worth checking the passenger side too, as they are also likely to snap/sever. Check the obvious things, such as fuses, battery condition, etc. They hate weak batteries and any loose connections. Even if the relevant fuses LOOk ok, try switching them for new ones anyway and pinch the terminal close so as to be a tight fit, if possible. Check there is no water ingress into the electrical components in the door, in the roof lining, under the bonnet, etc. I do vaguely remember alarm issues on certain occasions/models but can't remember what they were. (No alarm on mine). Check all this sort of stuff as its not gonna cost to look but could cost plenty to overlook! You might need to get someone with the VCDS equipment, to help look at any coded faults, if you can find someone local.

Might be worth asking what condition your old one was in... Was it completely wreaked? I assume you lost the trim part as you seem to need that. I would have thought a "Normal" bumper would physically "Fit" from an anchorage POV, but would not match up with the wheel arches etc. To that, it would look cr4p. I would either find one in the full Monty spec and colour or even a wrong colour but in sound condition so as to either paint it or sell it on again if I manage to find the correct colour match. I know a main dealer used to charge around £360 for a standard bumper, painted and fitted so this might be worth thinking of as a starting point. Unpainted bumpers are usually fairly cheap new, on the bay and from panel specialists so getting one and having it painted locally to yourself or even finding someone who paints to your code, may eb a good choice and may save around 50% from a dealer price but you will have to fit it. I am quite surprised at how much some scrappies/breakers want for panels that are often such poor quality paintwork or damaged, but they will almost certainly suggest that it is a "Genuine" part, hence the cost. Decent aftermarket parts are often just as good, specially if insurance approved!

Does it rattle on both driving and when stationary at tickover?

On the post about drivers door wiring issues posted recently, Murdockman suggested he had no issues on a Fabia, after slopping in some silicone grease inside the door loom bellows, so if anyone else knows of a better method of prevention to snapping wires (A replacement loom is not preventative and the issue may well occur again despite still being better then crimping together broken wires) Or if anyone knows any drawbacks to silicon grease, haw about pinning it up and then, for once and all time, we have some form of solution to the issue, rather then being repeated every six months!!! Granted its not hard to reply but it MAY just make it easier for newer, less experienced owners to sort an issue. If for instance, silicone grease is pretty much a full on fix, supporting the wires and sort of lubricating them and preventing them from the constant flexing of the door bellows, frost/cold, etc, then its worth us all popping to Halfords, etc, for a tube and spending 30 mins glooping it in to the bellow. If on the other hand, it all just squidges back out over a few weeks or reacts withe the wires in a bad way, then perhaps give it a wide berth! So, all being well, WELL DONE, MURDOCKMAN!

Murdockman, if this solution worked so well, why wait? Check first to see if it will not void the warranty and if not, do it! You may find you have waited until a wire snaps, prior to using the fix! I have never seen anyone come up with a full fix, although others have suggested replacement under warranty, up to a point and fitment of later, modified wiring looms so unless the supposed modded one does fails too, its a moot point! think I would slop the grease in though, if I had success on an earlier car.

The resistors can be had on sites like eBay, etc but can be either great or cr4p, depending on your luck and where you buy... Recommendations would be the best bet. Official, new ones from Skoda are around £50, if memory serves... There are a few threads to help but basically, you open the upper glove box, remove the two or three screws that hold the airbag module in place, gently remove the airbag and delve inside the dash area, to find the resistor. Twist turn it like a lightbulb, to remove and simply slot the new one back in with a twist to lock. slip the insulation soon, stuff you delved past to get the the resistor, pop the module back, re-fit the screws, close the glovebox and the job should be a good-un. (Might be worth testing prior to re-fitting everything but personally, I would have removed the battery neg lead, prior to popping out the airbag). The a/c resistor on Climatronic digital systems is built in more deeply and may need the whole dash to be removed, along with a new blower fan. You are lucky (?) in that you have the 4 speed manual version.

Sounded a bit leaky. Put your hand over both outlets, with a nice thick cloth, and listen for the gasses escaping from along the pipe. It may well be a joint but could just as easily be a muffler/silencer part. I think you should follow Eino's advice, though and ask for a quote from an exhaust centre. The rear box will most likely be a little louder then bog standard too, so if you like it quiet, that'll want replacing too but is solid, may have a (Little) resale value.

Thats bizarre as I have had both my front seats out on my 2009 Greenie and had no warning light come on! Have you tried disconnecting the battery for a little while, then seeing if the light is on still, once reconnected? It can't help and you should only need to reset the window auto function, which is simplicity itself. The audio, at least if standard, will do a self test and then resume.

I usually buy a 5L oil pack, which will leave plenty left over for top-ups, should the need arise. If I still have some next time round, (i don't burn much oil) a 4L bottle will suffice and the left over oil from previous will make sure the level is correct. So, yes, you will need at least 4L and be sure it is low saps oil. Change at proper intervals and don't try to eek out extra miles. As for how much exactly... There may always still be residual oil inside the engine/sump, etc so although you need a guide, ALWAYS go by the dipstick level. fill with a good 3L, leave a while, say ten mins, check level. If above min, run the engine a mine or two, to flow the oil around the new filter (Don't flimp here, either) then re-check the level. give it a few mins to settle, top up to just below the upper limit and then run the car again. Check there are no leaks during this process. If all seems ok, use the car for a few days and check the level again. Top up as and when...

26DIPP, when did this start to happen, then? The original OP 's avatar states his/her model is a 2012 and the switch listing states up to (But not including( 2015 models/

Ok, have you re-checked coding? Strangely, codes can be stored for duff batteries, etc, despite being replaced and no code showing... Its like the code is there but-well-coded! Be sure to get any existing codes fully deleted, if possible. I am clutching straws a little here but it really can't hurt to be sure you are starting with a clean sheet.

Is the stop-start function working properly?

To slightly undermine, albeit unintentionally, rum4mo's comment about fuses, (Sorry, run4mo) I have had MANY fuses and sometimes soldered joints, that when heated a little, expand and the contact is broken- no power! Cools again, -power is back so don't overlook the obvious. Change the fuse prior to any other work. Its a tiny, inexpensive item of which, most owners may already have a spare and/or they can be found in many shops, easily. Just be sure to check there is not more then one fuse serving the system. I doubt there are two but you never know.

You can find both the rear bulbs, along with the interior and the two W5 type interiors all in LED bulbs, on the 'Bay. They work well and are easy to fit. As for the numberplate ones "Glaring", I have found that they are not that bright and on the Fabia, are tucked away just enough to not be a PITA. Otherwise, you could use a light tint in the lenses anyway. A slightly brighter, slightly tinted look will please both you and the numpties who have lowered their ride soon much, even the numberplate bulbs dazzle them! You can also get actual LED lights for the numberplate but just the bulbs is good enough and cheaper.