mrgf

Many things need coding so perhaps that could be the issue. I was told many years ago, that a Toyota Yaris, if the keys were lost or something, needed a whole new ecu, ignition barrel, door locks, etc, at a cost of over a grand! Turns out not to be actually true-it is just the official way to go but you may just need to code the new barrel to match.

Are you meaning central locking? Have you inspected the wiring inside the door loom? Inside the rubber bellows, wires have a tendency to snap so this often causes issues with central locking, windows, mirrors, etc as they all have wires going through there. look in both front doors and repair, if necessary.

Also, It might be worth checking on Eurocarparts or carparts4less, as thy may offer the correct size straight off. They CAN offer differing ones but its worth a look and is easy to send back if they send you the wrong stuff. Bay can be a PITA for that! (Be sure to use an online code, to get a big discount on list prices).

Problem is, its a common-isn issue and quite minor... Wear and tear, etc so asking the seller if (A) They even knew about it or (B) Will they pay to rectify it as a fault, is unlikely to be met with much more then a wry smile and an "On your bike" attitude. It does not affect the overall performance or function of the car. There are a couple of lower pegs in the compartment, so you could use them if you only have a very small amount of objects in the car and perhaps have a look in the under boot area, where the spare goes, to see if the plastic lugs are in there somewhere. If so, you might be able to drill a small hole through them, pop one of those cavity plug type screw-thingies (Toggles) Through and in to the hole and let the screws flanges expand, screwing them up to a reasonable tightness. Filling the gaps with additional epoxy glue or something similar, will help strengthen this job, as you finish tightening. Be sure not to obstruct the rear seatbelt mechanism, which sits behind there, somewhere. If you can't find the plastic bits, perhaps you could fashion something similar out of doweling wood, slightly thicker then the hole, drilled, fixed and rubbed down on the outer edge, to fit the shelves bracket diameters. A lick of black/dark grey paint will hide it to a degree where only you will see it and you will be pleased with your "Heath Robinson" fix, at an almost non existent cost! (I got mine to do)!

Easily replaceable centre caps can be had for a similar price to the stickers and are not hard to swap. The beauty is you can revert to the older ones, should you wish. The caps just pop in/pry off or pop off from the rear, if the wheel is off the car. Auto lights have gone cheaper too, of late. Be sure to get the correct switch if buying seperately. Some come complete, some need the switch and you may need to check the size of the plugs. (I had to sell on an auto light controller as it was the wrong size, prior to fitting mine). I have an original Skoda switch from a Yeti, I think, which is the correct colour for Skoda. VW switches are usually red lights, Skoda are green. You could change the window switches for ones with the little chrome bit for a modest cost, looks a little nicer.Sunglasses holder for the roof, where there is usually just a blank panel. Nice little touch is buffers for the grab handles, that make them go slowly to the roof, eliminating the "Slam". Simple, cheap mod, there! Any soundproofing you can do will be nice, if you plan to keep driving it. Under bonnet cover, if not already there, plus many others you fancy. Centre arm rests are nice on longer journeys and can sometimes be found on eBay for around £50 for a genuine one. I wouldn't fit an aftermarket one, myself.

I get that, Tommy, it'll be like going back to the 70's... That said, I doubt a head rest so low as to poke the bottom of you skull, will be any better. Might even exacerbate the situation! Have you toyed with the idea of getting someone to fabricate longer headrest poles, (I doubt there is enough on the poles just to grind additional slots to lock it in place but you never know) and swap them over? You would need firstly, to see if there was room inside the setback, to accept it when lowered, though, unless you had the adaptation done to a spare. You would only really need to do it to your seat, unless your family/partner is tall or you ride as a passenger frequently.

You could, as a last resort, take it right off. Keep it handy for resale, etc.

Funnily enough, I had the same thing happen recently... Both front LED'S (I know, but I like them. They look nicer and seem to shine on the road better and I have never had the oncoming-driver-flashing-the-lights-a- me scenario) Went very dim. The little fans were still working and they had a tiny, sidelight-like output so it clearly not a fuse related incident. Swapped them out for a pair of non-fan LED bulbs that are meant to be smaller in size, with a bigger proportion of heat-sink metal, so no need for the cooling fans. Time will tell if they last.

As others have said, a car alternator (or generator/dynamo) won't easily charge any battery to completely full. That's because they are "one step" chargers and use a compromise voltage. To fully charge a lead acid battery you really need at least three steps. First a rising voltage that keeps the charging amps constant whilst the battery voltage improves. Once the charging voltage reaches about 14.4v, the charger should switch to constant voltage mode, stay g at 14.4v whilst the amps gradually diminish as the battery voltage continues to improve up to its "surface charge" voltage of about 13.3v. That gets you a 100% charge, and the charger then switches to a maintenance voltage of about 13.5v (just higher than the surface charge voltage) to maintain the battery in a fully charged state. Your alternator uses a maximum voltage of about 14–14.2v. This gets a good but not full charge into the battery (that needs 14.4v or thereabouts), but Since the alternator STAYS at that 14.2v or so rather than dropping to 13.5, it can end up overcharging after a long drive, but only a little at that 14.2v setting and lead acid batteries are usually quite good at accepting a slight overcharge. So putting a brand new car battery on a multi step smart bench charger overnight is a good idea just to get the battery right up to specs. In fact I do this with all car batteries once a month or so, just to make sure the battery does see a 100% charge every now and then. My batteries last a long time. Stop/start driving is hard on batteries too - that slightly low alternator voltage won't charge it full and every start drains the battery a bit, and together with the heavy electrical load of modern cars, it is possible to have the battery continually at part-charge, which results in a shorter life. An occasional charge from a bench charger is good for battery life. Rob Boardman , former ATC, truck Driver and Reader of Everything

JR and Sepulchrave, I agree with the sealed part, my comment was old tech for batteries but still later then the old "Top up with distilled water" Type ones. They still used to get filled and sealed at least for some time after this. But regarding the charge state, if there is no accurate way to determine the charge capacity, how can you know if its close to 100%? Thats a contradiction in terms, surely? I realise that a worn battery will still tell you it is fully charged and at 100%,, once you charge it, despite its capacity being way down on the capacity it would have started from when new but as I have mentioned, I have had a few batteries that have been "Brand new" which still stated on a reliable charger, to be around 60% and which took a decent charge until full. I have also had new batteries I have accepted as being fully charged and they have been the ones I have had to replace quicker so I am happy in my calculation that charging prior to fitting, is still much better. If you have had a duff battery, waited a few days say, for a replacement, etc, why not just go through the motion of charging fully anyway? There is absolutely nothing to be lost. I know any battery only has a finite amount of charges that can be put in to it but that one, along with a certain amount of "Top-up" Charges you may give the battery during its life, will not impact on that and MAY actually improve on it as when driving, you will most likely take out more power then you put back in, if you drive very short distances, low revs, heater and lights etc all on. It used to be said that it takes around 15 mins of continued driving, to put back in the charge used, starting the car initially.

Prior to fitting the new battery, did you charge it? I have had numerous batteries that, despite saying they are fully charged from purchase, have been put on a charger with built in tester, only to say they are around 60% charged. They are usually dry charged from new and then, once purchased, the acid is added and to me, that seems to be why they then need additional charging as they may well have been standing around ages first, then filled with fluid that may just then dilute the charge a little. I may NOT be technically correct on my description but it seems to be the case, regarding the charge, anyway! Test the charge and if needed, top it up fully.

Gently open up the key and check for moisture and/or dirt. Give it a little clean and even replace the battery as they are dimple and only a few quid!

Thanks, mpm222. I have had 3 replacement sensors, wheel bearings swapped around and a continuity test but sometimes things go wrong and sometimes they correct themselves too. The connector on the wiring looks clean and the sensor, well after 3 replacements, I think its quite unlikely to be them, even the original one, (Making 4) Was most likely ok. I paid around £200 for the diagnostics and replacement sensor, thinking I may have missed something. Then the workshop looked further as it popped back up again within a few miles of driving. That was when they did the other stuff and suggested the pump.

My guess is they might be ready for the emergency services to add blue lights in unmarked cars!

OH, Additionally, I forgot to mention and the workshop techie knows of the issue but my clutch is quite worn and needs replacing soon. It will slip if pushed harder then normal. I would also think they would have said so, if this could trigger an ABS fault.

Wheels are standard alloys from new... Tyres I am fairly sure are of the same size and make on any given axle. I do usually try to have the same all round but have been known to have matching front, matching rears, rather then fully matched all round. I will double check this again tomorrow though so as to eliminate this. I would like to think the workshop ran there eyes over anything that obvious, though. They must have had each rear wheel off in order to swap over the bearings. I would also like to think they would have spotted any potential damage to the internal sidewalls as they are tricker to see then the outsides.

Rum4mo, I thought the same until recently where I heard that an ABS light MAY inhibit the system... As opposed to WILL! Wino, I grabbed the paperwork from the repair workshop... This is copied from the report. I am unsure how to load it in time to post). Address 03; ABS Brakes Labels; 6r0-907-37 x-ESP80. c1b Part No SW; 6R0 907 379 E HW; 6R0 907 379 N Component; ESP 8.0 front H06 0002 Revision; 0000000 Serial number; 00000000000000 Coding; 0002383 Shop (Hash) ; WSC 13765 790 00042 VCID; 408ECA1A109DC38653-5104 1 Fault found; 00290 - ABS Wheel Speed Sensor; Rear Left (G46) 008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent Just so you know, I could not find the hash-tag symbol on my Apple keyboard so I put (Hash) where there was a hash-tag symbol... On the line that starts... Shop.

You're welcome. I have had masses of help on this site myself and although there have been a few minor spats with a few members here and there, it has been one of the best sources for help, information and the occasional larf!

You are only an idiot if you do the same thing again, next time round... Anyone can make a mistake! At least the issue is sorted.

Wino, I have yet to sort out the part number. I have looked around the net a little and noticed people rebuilding some versions and the place I went to mentioned they could supply and fit a rebuild or get mine done, I think. That puts the cost closer to £250 for the part so still pricey. BBA Reman, based in Kent, state some models unbolt the module from the pump, keeping the whole brake system sealed and the module can then be fixed, so no need to re-code as its the same part. This is ok if its actually the module at fault, not the pump. I have seen used units range from about a tenner, to over a thousand and on each, the warranty will be nil or very low! So I think if I can confirm for sure its the module or the pump, I will get a rebuild. With the new lockdown, I hope they could still do it, whilst I have to stop working anyway. One other thing I have noticed, when the light IS on, the ABS seems to "Pump" A little louder, perhaps and a little sooner then I would expect. I can brake quite lightly, albeit suddenly, and hear and feel the pulsating of what I assume is the modules pistons, pumping away.

I think you have two tail light bulbs per side so swapping one round with the other side may help determine if the bulbs are ok. Put a good bulb from one side in the duff side, the duff side bulb in the working side. This will tell you instantly if it is a bulb issue.

I have experienced intermittent faults with my ABS light coming on on occasions, to the extent of having had the coding read, the sensor (Rear, left side) Replaced and after the fault returned, again replaced the sensor (Under warranty) with what the seller stated as being genuine VW part, yet again. (Three so far). Took the car to a well known VW/Audi specialist and they checked coding, came back with rear, left sensor issue. Replaced it with a genuine one, close to £80 each, drove home but after a mile and a half... ABS light on again! They subsequently checked the codes, continuity tested the wiring, swapped left wheel bearing ( Reluctor ring built in) for right, to see if fault swapped sides, still showing rear left ABS fault. They then say the only other thing is the actual ABS module (Pump) and a genuine one is around £800, plus fitting and coding, etc. A figure of around a grand! Has anyone else had these pumps fail/cause a similar issue, etc or any insight as to if that IS the most likely issue? I am extremely reluctant to swap out a thousand quid's worth of work, to still have the issue remain particularly as by next October, the PITA ULEZ charge will mean changing vehicles anyway! Just for additional information, I have a 2009, 1.4 diesel Greenline, which has ABS and ESP.

Looks quite similar to the MK2.

If its the same as mine, 027 is correct. This is the one I had recently. (eBay). A shade under £60. 1x Premium 64Ah 640CCA 12v Type 027 Car Battery 4 Year Warranty - EA640

Additionally, have you or the mechanic checked the fuses under the bonnet? There are some fuses and a fusible link/busbar usually found in the plastic cover on top of the battery.