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My o9 Fabia greenline is now on its third clutch. in 160,000 miles. First went, had dealer fit number two, that wore out and last April, Mr.Clutch fitted one for less then half price, 2 year warranty. This one seems to be the best. No judder, smooth and light. I'd recommend them. I just purchased a Dacia Sandero Stepway and that has judder. I won't throw away a good clutch but will deffo get a price quote from Mr. Clutch again. Leytonstow branch, for those who are interested, with nationwide branch warranty.

Might be possible if you get something like a Carista app and do it on your phone, etc or via a plug-in device, plugged in to the OBD port.

My Greenline has clocked up around 160,000 despite having the engine changed at around 50,00 under warranty as the oil pump had an issue. As mentioned, change the oil and filter at EVERY interval and with the correct grade. Brand is less important but proper grade is essential.

It is not unusual for vehicles to have the fan run on for a few minutes after switching off the engine. This helps to cool the car and prevent engine damage.If as you say, everything works fine, perhaps you are seeing a fault when there isn't one!

I have seen the same reply with the Dacia I have just purchased... Its a natural phenomenon (Da-do, da diddle, Phenomenon, Da diddle do). Any replies like 'You Muppet", have been pre-expected...

So, no=one tried one then? Or just not owning up!

As the title says, Turbo jackets/blankets. They are supposed to lag the turbo, keeping the surrounding area from getting too hot and potentially damaging components, whilst keeping the turbo warmth in, producing more power, albeit to a small degree. Has anyone fitted one and if so, would they recommend it? I am not looking for someone saying "I've never fitted one as they are a complete pile of sh1te, designed only to take another chunk of dough out of the unsuspecting motorists pocket"! I am looking for real life, tried and praised/debunked experiences. FYI, I am not looking at fitting one to my Fabia as its soon to be sold on, due to ULEZ but just for future knowledge. I have seen these blankets range from a paltry £20 to five times that amount and wondered if the higher priced ones are of better material or if a jacket costing a mere score, will still suffice, for the average user.

As the original poster stopped messaging, I recon they sorted their issue. My thoughts a re still that it needed a new battery and work from there. How old is your car and how old is its battery?

I would assume you would need to find the permanent live feed and swap it for a live feed that only comes on with the ignition. I doubt many many have bothered to do this as generally, people might want things the other way around, so to speak.

You may well be right but the original nut must have given way somehow and that was a long established design! I would find out the pressure the rivnut can take prior to doing it myself. Just a thought but as you mentioned no nut (Orig. OP), have you checked it IS no nut and not just a worn thread? If the nut was still there and had got worn out so as to be loose, you could possibly re-tap it and fit a balljoint with a larger thread or have a helicoil or something fitted to your balljoint. Clutching at straws there, as I think you would have looked into this! Prior to any other work though, try what Wino suggested earlier as it may just eliminate the whole problem. If you find the nut or access to fit another, be sure to but some high-strength thread lock on too so as to help prevent a recurrence. I too, had one of my strut balljoints go loose and pop off but luckily re-fitted it no problem. I found it came loose again some time later so took steps to tighten it properly with a spanner this time, rather then a DIY job, in situ, with those silly cheap toolkit pliers made of cheese or something!

That Halfords nut riveter looked a handy tool but I think it might be too weak for the pressure needed. It looks like a brake caliper repair tool threaded insert might just work but even then, I doubt it. The metal, without the nut, might be quite thin and flimsy.

My guess is they did what I mentioned above and sorted it so did not need to follow up. Have a try.

...sounds to me like you just undid it and now its in a state of unlock so needs just pulling out.

If you mean the main switch and as you mention, you cannot push it in, to turn it a quarter turn to pop the whole switch out, I think you might try doing it with say, pliers or vice grips. If that still won't worth, the next suggestion is more drastic. drill out the centre section, using a small(ish) drill bit, then expand it a little at a time. Eventually, you may just remove enough of the switch to get to the central parts that hold the lugs out and it may implode or fall apart. This will almost certainly destry the whole unit but sooner or later, you will get enough of the switch weakened to be able to remove it. I would be sure not to damage any part of the dash board and be sure to have a replacement switch to hand, first. There just might be a route to the switch via the rear of the dash but I doubt that would be easy and you would be working blind. BTW, you WERE turning it the correct way, I assume? If you were forcing it to turn the wrong way, you would have had a very tough job and that might just be why you broke it, to start with... I think off hand, you turn to the right, like switching on the lights, after pushing in. Good luck!

Careful not to lose the grey bit! I did that and had to tape it up with duct tape, until I got a new one ordered from main dealer. It was quite cheap though.

I have the same question to ask of my metallic black Fabia... I have a 2009 Greenline, with just under 160,000 on the clock. The engine was replaced with a brand new unit, at around 50,000 miles, under warranty at the main dealership where I originally bought it. Although in decent condition and having had a new clutch fitted last April, with a two year warranty on that, now, due to the PITA that is ULEZ, I have to shift it on. I have recently purchased a Dacia Sandero Stepway, to replace it but would still keep it, if not for the joy sent to us from Mr Mayor Kahn! My only real issue with the car is the climateronic A/C needs looking at as it throws up a code (Forget offhand but to do with pressure switch). There are a number of extra things on it to make it nice and homely, such as under seat boxes, sunglasses holder in the roof, proper Skoda central armrest, ESP (with disc rear brakes), etc but I have no genuine idea of the value. I could go anywhere and get myself ripped off or I could ask a price I am unlikely to achieve but I am sort of looking for that middle ground. Anyone any idea of the value? I do know the Greenies are a little like hen's teeth and expect one day, for them to become collectors items but by then, I'll be in my wooden overcoat!

Might have been an option, to swap out manual mirrors for "Leccie" Ones... Not seen this issue happen with them as of yet! I would assume someone here has made that change over and know the pitfalls. The benefits speak for themselves.

A dealer CAN order a numbered key for doors, ignition, etc but its a PITA so they are often reluctant to do so, preferring trying to sell you a non-matched locking part, if you see what I mean. I have had this issue in the past, on a Renault, where a lock was needed... They made a bit of a fuss about it but eventually order the proper coded lock. It cost a little more but had the benefit of offering a matching key so you had a spare. Had the same thing with motorcycles in the past, too. They would much rather just sell you the first lock/petrol cap, etc that came through the network or what is already "On the shelf". Granted everything is now much more sophisticated and higher tech, regarding orders but I would still think that attitude may well exist

I was not endorsing them, just offering an alternative to HID's, as the OP had issues finding some. Lets face it, most modern lights burn out your optic nerves these days, especially with all the speed bumps, etc.

....Or go with half-way decent LED's. I believe MOT testers can fail you, if they spot retro fitted HID kits (Or indeed, LED's). They might not but can. Motordepot report that ..“The changes made in May 2018 to UK MOT law banned HID conversion for halogen headlamp reflectors and this was extended to include LED conversions in January 2021,”

My MK2 has locking cap, on plastic cable. You sit it on the flap whilst filling. The flap its self has no security. It just opens if you-well, open it! The main dealer could most likely order one but they may be reluctant. You might be able to get one of the more modern, "looks closed but the pump nozzle just pushes the internal flap" Type caps, to fit. That way, you never need to remove it again!

...But before you go, do you remember how you did the needle sweep? P.S. Had to smile when I saw Skodfab80"s cars age on the profile... I suppose he went "Back to the future" To get that!

OK, I won't mention the tyre sizes as being correct and the rotation of the tyres too... Oh bumpers, I just did!

Just as long as you can return to where you started from, give it a whirl! Be handy to see what happens. Oh, bit obvious this one but... The front tyres ARE inflated correctly? That will make a difference to the steering weight.

I think you're right there Urban... The adjustment will be in the power steering pump, to weight/lighten the steering.