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Are you also missing the engine cover or have you just removed it for the photo?

...I'm supposing you asked the seller if they had the bonnet, too! Just FYI, the whole front end is the same for both estate and hatchback, including the front doors. I believe though, the rear doors are a different fitment. The rear lights match, too, despite the hatch being different!

e-Roottoot, as you mentioned being an (Ex) In the auto trade, where do you stand personally, on the battery terminal PJ issue? I have known of applying either that or proper branded terminal protecting substances, ever since starting off on my driving career, back in the late 70's but when I purchased the Skud, The instructions/service schedule says "NO"! Leave the terminals clean and bare, basically. I wondered why, as this seems to flow against the current, so to speak but obviously, when in warranty, one does as requested. That said, a good, clean, well charged and firmly connected battery perhaps does not need the attention.

On ebay, this is the cheapest UK seller I could see with a little look but it shows you the tool you need. You might just find one stored in the boot well, along with the tyre inflator or other stuff. (Cut and paste, to look). Wheel Nut Cap Removal Tool For Audi A4 Peugeot 307 Skoda & Other Ridged Car Caps (Fits: Audi) Brand new

There are a few screws that hold on the trim... You remove them, add the flaps and either re-screw or fit slightly longer screws. About three or four per flap, if memory serves. I had some cheap Chinese ones, that cost around a tenner for all four. Looked good, slightly shorter (And better looking, for it) Then original Skoda parts but have tended to be less sturdy, too. At a tenner a set, its worth it but if the car is a keeper, fit genuine ones. They cost around £30 a pair, I think, so look out for bargains.

I had a rear ABS sensor issue which came, went on/off swapped, went, came (ETC) specialist did test, swapped sensor, still happened, despite me telling them I had tried three (Two new, plus old one). Some while after, I switched back to my original light switch, from auto lights, and the fault went! Thought I had found the cure until the deluge a day or so ago and on popped the light! Luckily, i just purchased an XTOOL v401 so I looked up the code and it gave the same R/L ABS sensor but also stated SHORT CIRCUIT. I have not seen this with my old, crap non_VW obd code reader and the mech guy had not mentioned it so I think the new scanner/ reader is more advanced. i also clumsily tried the ABS pump checking function which was bizarre... It sets off the pump, gives instructions and operates the unit to each for issues. You have to press the brakes at certain intervals etc but I was just winging it so not sure how well I did. It did not show any errors though so I too now wonder if there is water ingress or a poor connection at the plug. That would be the most likely thing, I think though the garage said they did a continuity test but that would have been in dry conditions. It has been working properly since early this year, until the major flooding, a few days back, where I did drive through a few very large puddles. I might try popping off the rear wheel, looking at the connector and cleaning/adding petroleum jelly to the plug.

Looks like you are missing about three of the under bonnet insulation clips, there!

Unsure about the 1.2 but I have an older Greenie, clocking up around 160,000 miles now. Did have a new replacement engine, under warranty, at around 50,000 so its actually done less on the engine but that was due to oil pump chain snapping. Usual issues with cars but nothing to put me off owning. I am going to have to upgrade soon due to the ULEZ coming in late October (Thanks Mayor Khan). I would keep an eye on the DPF filter. If you do long miles, great but lots of small journeys may fill it up quick and you do need to do a regen, before stopping the engine as it will otherwise go in to limp mode and need a forced one done. Better still, if someone prior to you paid out for a delete, without your knowledge and you was not aware of or had any issues. That could have cost them up to £500 but I think the costs have come down somewhat, with more tuning places going the job. As far as I am aware, there is no dual mass flywheel on these but I stand to be corrected. ECP, CP4L, and other places like those, do good prices on many parts but be sure to buy online, with a code to get discounts otherwise, at the door, it will cost more! Additionally, check any price with the main dealer first as they may just be a better deal. Some bits and bobs are! I would also check its history, to be sure it has not been in an accident, etc as this will lower its value a bit (At this age/mileage, not too much) But also, you might have to show your insurer a certificate or report from an engineer, to show any repair was carried out properly. This is quite likely if it was a CAT S write-off, as that is structural. Don't assume it has an MOT so is good to go. That should be good enough for a CAT N, though. Hopefully, it will be clean anyway but I have also read of stolen/recovered cars, that have sustained damage but only got written-off for the theft, so the damage could have been repaired, the car re-sold and left unrecorded! The funny thing is, insurers are happy to sell these vehicles on but are funny about re-insuring them... Double standards, to a degree. If they are happy about any repair, the insurance price should not be ramped up due to the car's history so don't be afraid to let them know. It could bite you on the bum if undeclared and then discovered, down the line somewhere. Gearbox issues usually relate to linkages, akin to the wiper motors. The linkages get a bit jammed up, causing difficult changes but usually, its a routine, service maintenance type repair, often caused by lack of use, rather then wear and tear. Not too expensive and supposedly do-able by a competent home mechanic.

My guess is the linkage had failed as this is a fairly common issue. The little ball joints wear out and pop off and due to the way they are built (Upside down) They will always fall back off if you re-fit them. You can get new linkage arms for little money but they will fail again sooner or later. You can also buy little stainless steel clips which clip right over the linkages and stop a worn (Or non-worn, if you don't want the issue on a long journey) Linkage failing. I would have thought it more likely to see a vehicle with this, then a conversion, unless of course, you were at or near a car show at the time. As for rear wipers, only a tw4t would remove a rear one, working or not! If broken, get it mended... Additionally, a set of mudflats will help immensely, when it comes to road spay. Both for the rear of the car and for the following driver. Don't you just HATE the driver in front with no rear flaps, who is ALWAYS the one who passes you, in driving rain, then pulls in front with just a few metres space between his tailgate and your front bumper? Probably the same tw4t who removes his/her rear wiper!

Perhaps you had some damp somewhere that subsequently dried out.

Oh, ok Wino... Thanks for that. On some looking at a/c in general, it was stated one on each high and low, so I bow to better knowledge. You do tend to know these cars well and as mentioned, I was generalising, from looking at some a/c posts on youtube, etc, not a Fabia, directly. By switch, I did mean sensor also, but often, its referred to as a switch.

Might still be worth using that and see if you get the issue still... If the other key is a proper one and not just a valet key, that is. If it starts and runs the engine, its a real key as a valet key will only open the car up. Might disengage the steering lock but won't start the car.

If unused, brakes can get covered in a light amount of what looks like rust. A decent drive should remove most of this but rear drums do tend to need a little TLC now and then to operate nicely. Brake squeal is a PITA but at least you can hear the brakes when you press the pedal so know they are operating. Its when you hear nothing and nothing happens, you are up a certain creek, without the necessary rowing implement! Also, be aware of scraping, rather then squealing as that may indicate the pads/shoes have worn to their lower limit. Best avoided if possible, to prevent additional wear to the discs/drums in question. My guess is your drums are just grubby and not worn, unless of course, you over tightened the adjusters and the brakes were continually binding. I think you need to tighten them up until contact is made, then loosen off by a set amount so worth checking properly.

There will be a very slight loss of gas as you swap it out but if you do it promptly, it won't be much. I also believe there are two pressure switches, one on the low pressure and another on the high pressure. I can easily find my own low pressure one as its just near the coolant reservoir but I am unsure where the high one is. I think it depends on where the manufacturer deems it to be as I have read some can be actually bolted on to the compressor whilst others may be on the condenser.

I would have thought there must be the odd access hole somewhere, perhaps where the foot pedals would have been on a "Leftie" As many of these cars would have been ready to take either left or right hand controls from the chassis build, prior to being issued with location, etc. That said, it may have then been plugged up to hide the holes. I would suggest, however, if drilling, take care to be sure there is nothing behind where you are drilling (How often do you here of people drilling through electrics/pipes whilst trying a spot of DIY)? Additionally, be sure to use a nice snug fitting grommet, to cut down on wire movement through the hole and prevent the wire getting snagged/chaffing. A snug grommet will also help with noise/damp penetration, too. Depending on location, it may also be worth applying a little rust proof paint to the now bare edges of any hole drilled.

I have recently "Lost" one of the little plastic clips that hold the under bonnet insulation blanket in place... I got a whole new set as I thought they may be fragile after a decade of being there but keep having a casual glance down there, whenever I raise the bonnet. I presume one day it will make the light of day, if ever the under tray needs to be taken off and it will then be too late but "That's life", as Esther Rantzen used to say. I just hate the thought of it rattling around somewhere, perhaps making a nuisance of itself on moving parts in the engine bay. At least my loss was only plastic! It defy never went to street at the time though as I moved the car to look and my street had only just been relaid and was surprisingly debris free so it should have been easy to spot.

Thats a fantastic result! Just FYI, The door looms are often a major PITA on many cars across the VAG range, so if you get any electrical gremlins, such as mirrors, windows, central locking, etc, start from the loom inside the door bellows looking for either fractured or even fully snapped wires. That can be hard to spot so a close up look inside both front door looms may be needed. Might be worth a look anyway, toes if there has been any bodged repair or any sign of imminent failure as you might just get a new set of door looms whilst still under the warranty! I this k someone here mentioned that they redesigned the looms following many issues. To be frank, that should have been enough for dealerships to recall and replace all looms but I guess they will only swap out what is still under warranty as its not a safety issue.

I am at around 160,000 miles on my 2009 Greenline but a lot of that is stop-start learner drivers who are a little clumsy until I've ironed out their faults... Had issues in warranty, but of late, apart from a clutch, routine servicing seems to keep the thing happy. I eevn managed to sort the ABS light, fault I seemed to have. I am now planning on replacing it for something ULEZ friendly, despite knowing the replacement will most likely NOT be less maintenance or even cleaner, really. Cheers Mr Kahn. you bent over for Boris!

...So did you manage to change the resistor, or the whole fan?

Fabrication is most likely the way to go! I find mine to be just right but then, I suppose it depends on where you position your seat, your own hight, arm length, etc.

...Sounds like the Fiesta was all shout and no trousers but your trousers ended up around your ankles! Hope it went wrong AFTER you were out of sight...

Three times better? Depends on your budget, I suppose. I would rather have the functional £18 ones, then the more expensive variant on my 11 year old Greenline driving school car but if I had a nice, expensive shiny VRS, I might have had the better ones, too! The cheap versions do the job though and lets face it, the gas shocks are all most likely "Chinesium", as you put it. The brackets are purely aesthetic.

Hi, I recently accidentally set my airbag light on, whilst pulling fuses (That old chestnut) And as you know, once illuminated, it need to be coded out. i tried my old OBD2 code tester but it was not up to the task so I asked a local specialist, who quoted £45, plus VAT to do a diagnostic and put it out. I did say it was due to pulling the fuse but they recon you need to do the full code or at least, the task is the same. Anyway, I then asked someone else.. £30 to try, sorted or not! So I searched around for a decent priced tool that would do the job and found an XTool V401 (VW Version) Scanner, which supposedly does the job. On Ebay, they started at around £45 but whilst waiting for an answer to the question of if they did the job or not, I found the tools own website, advertising them for a mere £37, delivered. It took a week to arrive but once the instructions were read, I plugged in, followed the routine and the light is now off! The tool will do many other functions so is well worth having in the toolbox of any VAG vehicle owner. I think it does normal OBD11 stuff, too but is designed for VAG. It supposedly does many other functions relevant to VW systems, such as brake caliber setting, security stuff, service light reset, oil reset, around 60 functions, along with reading and clearing certain codes. It is also updatable, online so may have more functions in future. To be blunt, at the price I paid, it is worth it just for the one-use i have given it! Have a lok at the XTool website, if you need a low-priced decode/reset tool.

If you have extended warranty, why are the dealers not looking into, testing and fixing the issue? That said, I have seen some people say certain OBD code readers will code out the fault, others will not. I think it depends on if they are the VAG version. I had an older, plain tool that would not do this and set my own airbag light off by pulling a fuse and once the light is on, it stays on! I was given trick to try by a specialist, which I can send you but not unless you want it but it failed to put my light out. (May or may not work-hit and miss). I then looked around and came across a tool that said it should do the job so I purchased one and although it took a good week to arrive, after reading the users instructions, I took it to the car and had the light off again in just a few mins. The specialist was going to charge me £45, plus VAT to do it but when I looked around, i found the tool for £37 and I get to keep it for other issues! The tool is an XTool V401 Scanner (VW version). I purchased it from XTool's own website as on the "Bay", they started from around £45! I will most likely put up a post about this as others who may not read this, may need to erase a code or two!

Do you mean the intermittent wiping? If so, my guess would be either a dodgy switch/lever or a duff relay. Failing that, it might be the convenience module or whatever controls the wiper's brain.