gav_is_con

400k. That’s amazing. There are some cabs mentioned on here that have done 400-500k. I am at 255k. Due to motorway mileage, rust is setting in underneath to components and some of the body, sills and corner of rear bumper into wheel arches. How is yours fairing?

No experience on the S2 yet. It sounds like maybe 2/3 of the cost maybe labour for bumper removal etc.

Some estates start to rust around the number plate lights. Maybe do a search and take some action before it starts.

That foot pack is common across loads of cars. I think a 757 one for combi. Staycation year 2021,hopefully plenty of takers.

Alternator perhaps? Screwdriver on it and the other end on you ear lobe. Does the noise transmit.

My 2011 estate had the below parts used by the dealer in April 2021 Hope it helps, someone has done a write up how to replace on here I think.

Whoops wrong way around. Does that risk wheel arch rub?

I think the mk3 rims sit a little too far into the arches on mk2 models due to offset. I presume then you get into the whole spacer thing.

As you say they won’t add any value when traded in. Take off the easy stuff and bang it on here or the popular auction site. Get some of your outlay back ? People are always after spare wheels and tool kits, presume 16” is pretty common fit across Skoda models.

I hope someone can dicipher the VCDS scan there is a lot of stuff there. I will see if I have one to share from the dealer. The AA report Patrol found the following fault code/s:System : Central electronics system - 68K / Central electronics CE 3.3 Status :038B - Energy management active. Error Message : . Error sporadic. Status :0536 - Rear right door control unit. Error Message : No signal. Error static. Status :0533 - Door control unit, driver side. Error Message : No signal. Error static.Patrol carried out the following special function/s:Adjustments / settingsDriver has lost control of the drivers side of vehicle controls.Unable to secure car control windows etc. Member now not confident in leaving/driving vehicle. I did the following:tested and checked fuses relays. Read diagnostic trouble codes stored.

Picture of my loom and others I obtained of someone’s repair

Guessing like me it’s the door loom wires in the drivers door. The grommet between the car and the door is where the wires break. Do a search there was a recent topic in April. Some people repair (solder). There was an eBay part used by someone to re-splice all wires very cheaply inc the door connector. Mine was replaced by the dealer, it’s not cheap £335 odd for parts and labour. Ps I lost electric window controls for various car windows. All drivers door controls for mirrors and no drivers side doors would lock. Upon inspecting the original loom there were several wires broken.

I have the same in my estate also. The difference in mine is, I have the 2 tracks either side of the mat and the bar to help stop stuff rolling about.

Wonder if it could be related to a broken drivers door loom. Purely a guess. VCDS scan logged anything?

Just realised this should have said my 2005 Octy 2 hatch. Forget which forum I am in sometimes. As I also have a S2 estate. Good find @Declan O'Shaughnessy

Mine has just been replaced by a dealer after taking out both OS doors. Plus electric windows and the mirror adjustment. You have done a good job there. I never realised there was such an easy repair plug with wires option available. Most advice was to solder or replace the whole loom.

My 2005 gets like this also spare wheel very damp water droplets. I am beginning to think it’s related to the boot rubber and perhaps the rear screen glass as I think after years of slamming it’s not sealing as it should. I have not really tried to find the source. Although my rear wiper washer has stopped putting out screenwash , could be linked??

Loosen the retaining screw. Add wheel bolts back in. Wack from behind using a block of wood and hammer turning a little and repeat....

Is it a diesel and DSG?. Although your behaviour does not match what happens when the DSG stat goes, don’t rule it might be that or the main thermostat.

I got caught out with rear bulbs also recently. The indicators are offset and I think the brake/tail also. Best to check before buying, not just what I said they might be.

Plus 2 for the DSG stat. Plenty of topics including one I did after reading others. Very easy DIY job. I got a Mahle part from Autodoc at the time. Do a search you should find my posts and loads of others. Someone did pictures and instructions also.

I like what @silver1011 did 17”. Best compromise of looks and comfort/costs. I believe there are a set of 17” wheels for the Superb, if you manage to find a set for sale. Keeping in line with the original options.

I have 16” winter wheels and you definitely feel the difference from 18” wheels. Yes they look nice. Comfort is nice on 16” with 205/55/16. Get yourself some all season tyres. There is a Superb breaking by @ashskoda. He may have a full set of 16” wheels

This is the part number someone put on the forum back when I searched in 2014 633440070. Please make absolutely sure before shelling out. Valeo should be able to help also.

Yes, for the steel wheel it’s 7J not 7.5j. The part number if the OP is looking for genuine used on eBay and stamped into the centre near the hub hole 3C0601027M/N. A number of them seem to be 215/55/16 but mine is definitely 205. I have had the Octy 2 16” Vega alloys on the Superb also, they do look a little small though!