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gav_is_con

FREEDOM
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Everything posted by gav_is_con

  1. This is the mark 2 area of the forum. there are mk2 ones also available as below https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rear-LH-RH-for-Skoda-Superb-2010-2015-2-0TDI-Electric-Tailgate-Strut-3T9827851A-/184890662747?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0
  2. Those are for 3V not 3T. Are they backwards compatible?
  3. Pretty sure taxi drivers buy those bespoke leather seat covers for cabs @DEL80Y?
  4. Sometimes it’s a bulb on its way out. Process of elimination swap out one by one or ignore until one actually goes ?
  5. You have a 1.9 BKC engined Octy it will go on for miles. Hardly any depreciation at its age now. So yes you are seeing the £s being spent. The replacement would be losing about 1k a year in normal climates, current car prices aside. Should be a keeper. My 1.9 2005 BKC on 255k. Best car I have owned for the money at 4 years old to me. Served me well. Rust is the only thing letting it down really had a motorway life in all weathers
  6. Annually or 10k you can’t go wrong. Have the service computer amended at the service to that schedule.
  7. I only lost about a cup of coolant when changed the stat. In any case I have a bottle of the appropriate g12/g13 pink stuff whatever is compatible. Hopefully someone will be along shortly to confirm. You can top up with water also as the coolant is mixed with water when replaced ie when you have a cambelt/water pump change .
  8. For my 170 2011 CFGB OE part number I bought the MAHLE one for about £25 from Autodoc. With all things brexit this is likely not to be the case. eBay has loads come back from this part number including Mahle 1K0 121 113 A
  9. It’s the DSG stat most likely had it myself and so have loads of others. Easy to replace and cheap. Do a search part numbers and instructions are on this forum.
  10. There are plenty of people who have had the same issue on here 1. repair solder extend 2. replace whole loom 3. use the repair plug kit with short wires from eBay to replace the whole loom from multiplug to inside the door. Please do a search some of the threads were recent. Mine was replaced within the last few years by the dealer. Started with maxidot not seeing the door open or closed. The door locks stopped drivers and passenger followed by some of the windows inoperable. Hope you manage to sort it
  11. Can’t you just push the wires in with your fingers saves unclipping and associated damage.
  12. Heated screen should work as you have one. The issue might be it’s too slow I find mine takes an ages on frosty mornings to clear the screen.
  13. Milton Keynes unit18 automotive Google them.
  14. Someone like AA/RAC May be able to help. I have no experience myself
  15. Spigen branded cases for protection.
  16. What I really meant to say. Regular cleaning of internal glass helps reduce the morning fog you can also get. Plus when car fully loaded with people creates issues. I also don’t drive around with a boiling hot car 20-21 degrees max on heating. My car defo let’s water into door seals and boot seal. Got to the stage I just learn to live with it as it’s a second car. I don’t like driving it in the winter. I bought a superb 2 with heated front screen to reap the benefits of it for these situations. I tried those Pingi dehumidifier bags not sure they worked all that well. Good luck.
  17. Typical this time of year for this to happen. Give windscreen a good clean and get rid of all moisture retaining items. I have not managed to solve this on my octy. Thankfully I don’t drive to work at silly o’clock in the morning anymore.
  18. Welcome back, been a little quiet on the forum since you left. Looking forward to some interesting content 👍
  19. So that’s why you changed up to a Skoda to cash in? Most used cars increased in value so surely buying one now also costs more?
  20. What happened that was short lived. You been over to the dark side a few times and come back to Skoda ?

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