gav_is_con

Looking for some guidance from some knowledgeable people on here. After 256k my tailgate struts are gone. The hatch weighs a ton and does not stay up and really slams down to shut. I took one of them off and it has no resistance. The problem is there are so many out there varying prices new and used. I cannot locate any part numbers only one of them has writing Hoher Druck which appears to be the German manufacturer. The car is a 2005/55 Elegance hatch. No boot spoiler. I measured one at 60.5cm long. I don’t mind waiting for a decent set or taking a punt on a used set. What I don’t understand is if I end up with a set off a VRS which has a spoiler is that detrimental in anyway or is it just stronger ?

I don’t own a VRS but I can understand your problem more at 30mph. The problem with a diesel is it feels like you are thrashing it holding it in a low gear. According to someone who went on a speed awareness course the best way to stick to 30 is in 3rd. The engine certainly holds you back as I have used this method downhill when 40 changes to 30. If I leave in 4th the car keeps picking up speed over 30 without acceleration. That’s a 1.9 TDI. Pretty sure same applies to our Leon 1.2 TSI the 3/4th thing.

Where are these from ?

The 1.6 is 105 also. The PD and CR engines are different to drive. You may no like the 1.6. Drive one before you commit.

Be careful prising the lock cover off. If it drops on the tarmac and gets scratched you wont be happy.

You should not touch the metal hold it from the red part same for black cable, it will be fine

Such a regular topic on this forum. Try some more reading.

Nah it’s only 12v, but natural reaction when seeing a spark is to flinch/jump.

They don’t need much really. Regular oil and filter changes pollen, air and fuel filters at regular intervals, earlier than recommended some times. brake fluid every 2 years. Cambelt kit as per manufacturer interval for your engine. fan belt perhaps if never been replaced in your ownership?

You will also likely get a spark from the red terminal when touching the battery post/terminal, makes me jump everytime. So make it quick action to drop the connection onto the battery post.

I always found it easier from the sender under the rear seat when our Golf Mk5 was written off. Engine bay also an option fuel filter area or pipe coming from fuel tank. Using a manual siphon pump. You don’t mind leaving it not working when car is to be taken away. Depends if your car is still a runner how much damage to pipes and fuel lines you can do. Important petrol especially is very dangerous and fumes can be ignited by a spark proceed with caution. Diesel not as bad but still be careful.

What a great topic. Admins should pin this one to Octavia and Superb forums. I have broken mine, car is 17 years old on my 05 Octy. I just push it through from the boot as there is a way to open it from the other side also.

The wheel nut covers has been common on VAG cars for quite a few years. I believe people say caused by hand car washes. Some people have managed to clean up or buy cheap replacements. Was a thread in a forum recently where someone used some clear lacquer of sorts to prevent it happening again. Given how new the car is you could complain to the supplying dealer.

Not sure I can help with heating issues, but a fluctuating needle on a DSG is down to the DSG stat nearly all the time. Do a search on here.

The general consensus on here on some threads. 17” was a good compromise between the factory 16-19 available options. Maybe from looks and costs.

I had to look back at my notes steels are ET45 7J or 7.5j on Superb my Octy wheels are ET50 6.5J both the same 16” tyres

I just went with black steel 205/55/16 Tyres given the low use the tyres have stayed on for a few years. I tried a set of 05 Octavia Vega 16” alloys they don’t look right. Might be because the offset difference. That stuff always confuses me ET45 vs ET50 I think.

Try some of these threads and start with the drivers door loom. If you search it’s happened to loads on this forum.

This is the mark 2 area of the forum. there are mk2 ones also available as below https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rear-LH-RH-for-Skoda-Superb-2010-2015-2-0TDI-Electric-Tailgate-Strut-3T9827851A-/184890662747?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

Those are for 3V not 3T. Are they backwards compatible?

Pretty sure taxi drivers buy those bespoke leather seat covers for cabs @DEL80Y?

Sometimes it’s a bulb on its way out. Process of elimination swap out one by one or ignore until one actually goes ?

You have a 1.9 BKC engined Octy it will go on for miles. Hardly any depreciation at its age now. So yes you are seeing the £s being spent. The replacement would be losing about 1k a year in normal climates, current car prices aside. Should be a keeper. My 1.9 2005 BKC on 255k. Best car I have owned for the money at 4 years old to me. Served me well. Rust is the only thing letting it down really had a motorway life in all weathers

Annually or 10k you can’t go wrong. Have the service computer amended at the service to that schedule.

I only lost about a cup of coolant when changed the stat. In any case I have a bottle of the appropriate g12/g13 pink stuff whatever is compatible. Hopefully someone will be along shortly to confirm. You can top up with water also as the coolant is mixed with water when replaced ie when you have a cambelt/water pump change .