gav_is_con

If you don’t like stop start disconnect the cable for monitoring the battery by hand. No tools no cost. Stop start won’t work.

The hatchback ones fix to the holes where you open the doors and kind of clamp to where the roof line changes. Maybe Thule makes a version as well as Skoda genuine. The ones in your link look similar

Thanks ordered one. Not so bad in summer. But can keep the Superb topped up anyway.

Any links to this solar charger, cars not getting used much. At least one of them needs one of these i reckon ?

There are oil checking tools online also. Halfrauds and the Quantum oil matcher site uses registration numbers but only suggests Quantum products.

It’s annoying not to find a similar car when you need to compare values. Prices are still holding up at the moment. The trade is saying there is a slow decline and prices are dropping a little in May. I agree the extra goodies add value. Take a look on EBay as well as Autotrader. Screenshot everything as soon as you see it. What age and miles are you ?

Taken the car for a longer drive. Reminded me what I have had to contend with for an awful long time. Gear shift feels a lot smoother due to no resistance. On previous occasions I would miss gears due to some resistance at the gate going into say 5th and 3rd, this also appears considerably better. Recommend this to any high miler. Given it’s progressive nature, I just learned to change my driving style to accommodate it.

Yes, finally nailed the issue. I tried to remove that nut without removing the battery tray for access as my initial thoughts were to remove the shaft into the gearbox. It just would not budge. once I removed the cables off the linkages. I realised the gear stick was wobbling/moving unrestricted, where previously it’s movement was limited side to side. This further compounded the issue away from the gearstick area. the shaft where this bracket sits, seems to be a plastic insert to the assumed aluminium housing. Must have just dried out over the years. This particular lever/cable arrangement controlled the left right movement of the gearstick when moved back and forwards bulkhead to headlight direction. I originally intended to try and remove the shaft to the gearbox as a T5 forum seemed to suggest this was the issue. Clearly a different gearbox arrangement, as no amount of pulling would allow me to remove that from inside the gearbox just the normal up and down movement.

I have had this problem for a few years and seasonally gets worse. 1.9 BKC 2005 Octy hatch 5 speed 256k Miles . The gear stick just won’t return to centre, it’s not the common sloppy issue.. If I go from second I need to guide it into 3rd. I have actually managed to live with it and changed my driving style to accommodate it. Today I managed to find the cause. Had checked the gear stick area. Sprayed wd40 on the shaft that goes into the gearbox quite a few times over the years. Placebo as I thought it was better. You need to remove the airbox for best access. There is a bracket that joins onto one of the cables and the shifter shaft to be removed and cleaned. I had to hammer it out and clean the shaft both ends grease up and replace. First remove the 3 clips one from each gear cable one from the end of the shaft/bracket thing. No tools needed just lever the front and prise away. Move the cables off the linkages. To remove the shaft off the gearbox using a hammer with light taps to the left. I scraped down the chrome shaft and cleaned out the aperture where it slides in with wd40 and cotton buds. Then used normal wheel bearing grease on the shaft and smeared some on the entry point. Refitted everything reverse of removal. Gear stick wobbles and centres like it should now.

Lot of stuff on this car. Not sure what extras but heated front screen is an option. Heated seats Electric seats Electric boot Lane assist Blind spot assist No idea on price, all quite high as we all know.

Skoda want £600 with water pump. That’s your benchmark

My own experience on a Leon. Unplug that battery monitor cable on one of the terminals. Stop start cannot function because it cannot tell the battery state. Our car been running without SS for about 3years now. Hopefully the engine will thank me for it.

I think it’s another version they do to meet VAG needs Fuchs TITAN GT1 PRO C-3 XTL 5W-30 Fully Synthetic Engine Oil

I heard it going to be replaced next month no other details yet.

This is the detail off the old can

All, Struggling to get hold of the stuff without paying over the odds. Apparently it’s discontinued and something is coming along to replace it, no idea what. So what on earth are people with service needs supposed to do in the meantime? I used to use LL3 a long time ago mainly to reduce the different oils in the garage, all cars are annually serviced or 10k . Now the car is a high miler 256k also, It sounds better and burns less, plus cheaper. Any ideas where to get it from ?

Thanks @MikeTheThinker I have a rear wiper so that means the 8M1 version. The glass ones are confusing to me too.

Looking for some guidance from some knowledgeable people on here. After 256k my tailgate struts are gone. The hatch weighs a ton and does not stay up and really slams down to shut. I took one of them off and it has no resistance. The problem is there are so many out there varying prices new and used. I cannot locate any part numbers only one of them has writing Hoher Druck which appears to be the German manufacturer. The car is a 2005/55 Elegance hatch. No boot spoiler. I measured one at 60.5cm long. I don’t mind waiting for a decent set or taking a punt on a used set. What I don’t understand is if I end up with a set off a VRS which has a spoiler is that detrimental in anyway or is it just stronger ?

I don’t own a VRS but I can understand your problem more at 30mph. The problem with a diesel is it feels like you are thrashing it holding it in a low gear. According to someone who went on a speed awareness course the best way to stick to 30 is in 3rd. The engine certainly holds you back as I have used this method downhill when 40 changes to 30. If I leave in 4th the car keeps picking up speed over 30 without acceleration. That’s a 1.9 TDI. Pretty sure same applies to our Leon 1.2 TSI the 3/4th thing.

Where are these from ?

The 1.6 is 105 also. The PD and CR engines are different to drive. You may no like the 1.6. Drive one before you commit.

Be careful prising the lock cover off. If it drops on the tarmac and gets scratched you wont be happy.

You should not touch the metal hold it from the red part same for black cable, it will be fine

Such a regular topic on this forum. Try some more reading.

Nah it’s only 12v, but natural reaction when seeing a spark is to flinch/jump.