gav_is_con

I agree MDI cables various connections on the other end. iPhone lightening. USB or old style iPod versions I have myself. Works across the VAG range also.

Maybe try one of those solar AA battery maintainer devices. Got one myself recently.

There is a menu price on cambelt and it’s way cheaper than a 2lt diesel with water pump at £600 at Skoda. Call a few more dealers and ask with your registration.

I had stepping of tread on ZV5 and similar on ZV7 on the rear of the Superb 2.

Only keep away from Avon ZV5/7. Superb and other VAG don’t like them. A Google will also give some real life reviews from users.

Find someone on here with VCDS there is a post/sticky with a map. Hopefully do it for nothing or some beer tokens.

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@pab567or anyone else help with a query for a friend. VW golf match TDI 64 plate with standard DAB Stereo for that era of car. Would like Android auto which I presume means he can use the Nav app from his phone?, whilst maintaining OEM. What are his options Bham based, would like to be fairly local if possible. Thanks in advance

Forgot to say I could not read anything of use off my old struts and not about to pay £40 odd for a genuine strut each!

I had exactly the same issue on my 2005 hatch. Feels very resistant when pulling down on the hatch to close. But at under £20 a pair they were cheap including a 5 year warranty. I fitted them about a month ago on a car with 257k on it. I am on bangernomics territory. Used ones were too risky and £10-20 a set not worth it in my mind. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274305477507?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=Ewc_ewyzRjS&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=45o-tdWCRea&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY As @KenONeillsays we probability got used to the gradual decline in strength as they got weaker

Without any experience of said symptoms. How about clutch/DMF as being the likely cause. Have you had to change a clutch/DMF? Before my DMF/clutch was changes I used to get a buzzing from the glovebox side of the car when accelerating. Once DMF was removed it as noted it was very wobbly/on its last legs. Very common issue on our era PD cars

The window switches also go white as yours have started to. Other than that the octy2 interior can take a fair bit of abuse. Not tackled any of this myself. Wonder if something could be wrapped around the handles. More to cover up the look?

Not sure about temperature issue the natural thing would be the engine stat. Hopefully others will be along who know more. The cambelt kit is due on age now, rather than miles. I changed the cambelt kit and water pump based on age(not miles) on a Superb with the same engine this year.

It’s age and mileage. How long since last belt in years? You are looking at 5 years. If your car is a DSG it’s likely to be that stat to be changed first, if doing weird things.

Or by an adapter with a switch on it to turn off without removal

If you don’t like stop start disconnect the cable for monitoring the battery by hand. No tools no cost. Stop start won’t work.

The hatchback ones fix to the holes where you open the doors and kind of clamp to where the roof line changes. Maybe Thule makes a version as well as Skoda genuine. The ones in your link look similar

Thanks ordered one. Not so bad in summer. But can keep the Superb topped up anyway.

Any links to this solar charger, cars not getting used much. At least one of them needs one of these i reckon ?

There are oil checking tools online also. Halfrauds and the Quantum oil matcher site uses registration numbers but only suggests Quantum products.

It’s annoying not to find a similar car when you need to compare values. Prices are still holding up at the moment. The trade is saying there is a slow decline and prices are dropping a little in May. I agree the extra goodies add value. Take a look on EBay as well as Autotrader. Screenshot everything as soon as you see it. What age and miles are you ?

Taken the car for a longer drive. Reminded me what I have had to contend with for an awful long time. Gear shift feels a lot smoother due to no resistance. On previous occasions I would miss gears due to some resistance at the gate going into say 5th and 3rd, this also appears considerably better. Recommend this to any high miler. Given it’s progressive nature, I just learned to change my driving style to accommodate it.

Yes, finally nailed the issue. I tried to remove that nut without removing the battery tray for access as my initial thoughts were to remove the shaft into the gearbox. It just would not budge. once I removed the cables off the linkages. I realised the gear stick was wobbling/moving unrestricted, where previously it’s movement was limited side to side. This further compounded the issue away from the gearstick area. the shaft where this bracket sits, seems to be a plastic insert to the assumed aluminium housing. Must have just dried out over the years. This particular lever/cable arrangement controlled the left right movement of the gearstick when moved back and forwards bulkhead to headlight direction. I originally intended to try and remove the shaft to the gearbox as a T5 forum seemed to suggest this was the issue. Clearly a different gearbox arrangement, as no amount of pulling would allow me to remove that from inside the gearbox just the normal up and down movement.

I have had this problem for a few years and seasonally gets worse. 1.9 BKC 2005 Octy hatch 5 speed 256k Miles . The gear stick just won’t return to centre, it’s not the common sloppy issue.. If I go from second I need to guide it into 3rd. I have actually managed to live with it and changed my driving style to accommodate it. Today I managed to find the cause. Had checked the gear stick area. Sprayed wd40 on the shaft that goes into the gearbox quite a few times over the years. Placebo as I thought it was better. You need to remove the airbox for best access. There is a bracket that joins onto one of the cables and the shifter shaft to be removed and cleaned. I had to hammer it out and clean the shaft both ends grease up and replace. First remove the 3 clips one from each gear cable one from the end of the shaft/bracket thing. No tools needed just lever the front and prise away. Move the cables off the linkages. To remove the shaft off the gearbox using a hammer with light taps to the left. I scraped down the chrome shaft and cleaned out the aperture where it slides in with wd40 and cotton buds. Then used normal wheel bearing grease on the shaft and smeared some on the entry point. Refitted everything reverse of removal. Gear stick wobbles and centres like it should now.

Lot of stuff on this car. Not sure what extras but heated front screen is an option. Heated seats Electric seats Electric boot Lane assist Blind spot assist No idea on price, all quite high as we all know.