simion_levi

IIRC, it was Xenons with shutters and Byte 14 bit 4, but as I understand it some cars differ, there are a few threads that discuss this. My central electrics coding is below. Do not copy it straight over, but it may help to compare to your own - make simple changes one at a time within VCDS without saving and you will be able to identify the bits that represent e.g. xenons without shutters/cold light diagnostics etc. Also include the original coding from my car Current coding: Address 09: Cent. Elect. (J519) Labels: 1K0-937-08x-09.clb Part No SW: 1K0 937 087 D HW: 1K0 937 087 D Component: BCM PQ35 H 103 0575 Revision: 00103 AG Coding: 46180AB8B85BB1C00008008011001124430000AE627D89605C0440000000 My initial coding, before HID (and other changes..) Coding: 40180AB8B05BB1C04008008011000124430000AE626D89605C0440000000

It was the ignition switch - jumping the supply cable to solenoid cable at the switch connector plug worked perfectly, yet a key turn through the switch was obviously not contacting sufficiently for the current required. The replacement is a cheapy no-brand, so half-wondering if I should swap over (to e.g. OE or Hella) in the not too distant future. For the moment though, I am glad to say it is resolved. I just have to put the car back together now!

Yes, initial recovery effort was to jump, which failed, so had to bump start to get it home. By any metric I can think of, the battery is fine - it is consistently starting the engine without any issue when I give the starter solenoid 12V directly, rather than through the ignition switch cable. The troubling thing is that I can see 12V on the ignition cable - and can power a small load (sidelight bulb!) with it - but it must not be passing enough current to activate the solenoid. It could be that I cut back a few inches of cable and bridge the wiring connector and it would work, but I'm reluctant to start chopping up the loom now just to find the problem is actually further back - e.g. ignition switch, or supply to the ignition switch. I've pulled the steering column top cowl off and undone the screws for the bottom, unfortunately the wheel does need to come off to be able to extract it! Buggers..

I wish it were that simple! Unfortunately, it does start without any hesitation if I replace the starter signal wire with a flying lead and touch the battery. Not particularly! The Elsawin wiring diagrams appear to show a direct connection to the ignition switch, so I should probably take the steering wheel and trim off and see if I can run a temporary cable from the switch to the solenoid.

Just to expand on next steps and help I actually need, if you see no fault in the conclusions above - I can only suppose that the ignition signal wire/circuit is still the issue. 12V may be showing on the multimeter, but perhaps it cannot supply sufficient current for the solenoid to activate? I'd like to understand how the ignition circuit works. Is there a relay for it somewhere, and/or does the ignition signal pass through the ECU? Any wiring diagrams or advice would be greatly appreciated!

I'm normally in the Octavia forum, but our Fabia has just developed a problem and its a bit of a headscratcher. (1.2 HTP 2009) As of yesterday it completely fails to start/turn over, no movement or sound from the starter yet all other electrics are working OK. However, the main possibilities have already been checked and eliminated; It will bump start OK, starts and runs fine I can jump 12V to the solenoid on starter with ignition switch on - starts and runs perfectly fine My conclusions: Battery is fine Starter is fine Main supply/earth cables to starter, battery, engine must be fine, since I can get it to start with a cable to the solenoid (Do please point out any errors in my reasoning!) So as far as I can see, it must be something in the ignition switch to solenoid circuit that is the problem? I know the MK1 Fabia had a reputation for broken solenoid signal cables - yet I still seem to have 12V at the solenoid wiring connector when I hold the key in ignition position. I've tried a short cable between both sides of the wiring connector just to eliminate contact problems and that doesn't work. Help!

I'd be curious to know if you ever cured this leak?

3 bolts hold each housing to the subframe. The 2 smaller ones can be used to alter alignment, as the holes in the housing are quite a bit wider than the bolt shaft - there is a lot of wiggle room until you tighten the bolts up and their heads clamp the housing into position. The pins have an adjustable bush that is the same diameter as the the housing mounting holes. When the pins are lightly torqued into the subframe, their heads will hold the bush in the required position so the housing alignment is retained. Just be sure to remove the 2 smaller bolts and screw 2 pins into those holes first: You can then remove the last (bigger) bolt and the housing can be pulled straight down off the pin heads. Refit is reverse etc. Link below shows some better pictures of the pins and their bush/head. https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/control-arm-locating-pins/t10096~oev/

If you are talking about subframe alignment pins T10096 - so you can remove the front wishbone rear bush housing from the car and later replace it in exactly the same position - then I have a set branded 'Asta tools' that worked perfectly - see first link below. I'm sure there will be only one factory in China knocking them out, so any other set on ebay or Amazon is probably equal to it, e.g. second link for a few quid less. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/A-SUBF4-4-PIECE-SET-SUBFRAME-TOOL-LOCATION-LOCATING-LOCK-PINS-VW-AUDI-T10096-/121859916329#rwid https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/APRIL-SALE-SET-SUBFRAME-LOCATION-LOCATING-PINS-VW-AUDI-EOS-T10096-OEM-EQUIV/361311996414?hash=item541fdf89fe:g:i~gAAOSw3xJVbwZ0

Just for reference; Sachs mounts are about £16 each including VAT, see below (fairly confident these are still valid, but do double check Sachs part code matches your application in Sachs catalogue..) http://autopartstechnik.co.uk/27184-01-top-strut-mounting.html I've used MCS a few times for Sachs parts, no problems to report and always seem to be cheapest around. And I've only just plugged two quick searches into Google, so again would double check - but it is suggested that the genuine VWAG part number for the bearing (6N0412249C) may translate to SKF part number VKD 35025 - which are ~£16 each on Amazon. https://www.amazon.co.uk/SKF-35025-Suspension-bearing-Single/dp/B00B9B6C6U

They appear to be the correct parts, but they are telling you that they are going to provide whatever is cheapest - likely equivalent to the bargain basement option from a motorfactors, or perhaps even below that. I wouldn't choose any of those personally, no. For bearings I tend to buy SKF or FAG (or the dealer part that will likely be one of the two). When I changed my top mounts and bearings on the Octavia I used Sachs mounts and the original VWAG bearings (part 6N0412249C).

Is this perhaps battery management instead of a fault? I know mine decides to stop performing certain 'comfort' features with the lights and stereo when the battery is below a certain charge state. The cold weather can certainly knock out batteries without the warning you might previously have expected too. My original 2010 battery crapped out in December - it would still start the car once after a decent run without any hint of an issue, but it was a real gamble doing a short journey and trying to restart! Perfectly fine and apparently healthy one day, then started this behaviour.

Yes, I changed my leaking pump a couple of years ago (somewhere around 65-70K miles IIRC) so had to familiarise myself with the system. Small puddles on the undertray to begin with, getting worse with time. The belt is fairly small, part 06H121605E (https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/water-pump-belt/06h121605e/). It is unfortunately very hard to remove the pulley bolt to release the belt/refit new, due to the way it is recessed into the pulley wheel and that itself only just poking out of the block, so I ended up reusing the original belt as it was still in good condition. The pump itself didn't seem particularly stressed nor deteriorating, it just seems to be the housing and/or seal that gives up with time.

1.8/2.0 TSI main pump is driven from a belt off the balancing shaft and fits into the block right underneath the inlet manifold. It's either a manifold off job, or an awful fiddle from underneath with restricted access. Multiple hours in either case, hence the prices you will see quoted. The other pump is electric to provide cooling for the turbo after engine shutdown. This is a small black plastic unit connected to coolant pipes very close to the undertray, and can probably be swapped in 5 minutes if you clamp the hoses. I wouldn't be particularly inclined to change either unless there is some evidence that they need it (leaks, noise or cooling performance diminished). The main pump housing, especially earlier versions, are anecdotally rather prone to warping and will start leaking coolant, so that would prompt a change. Monitor levels regularly. If you are otherwise planning to clean the inlet valves/replace the inlet manifold/remove the head then definitely consider doing the pump at the same time.

You need to install a DAB aerial - swapping the roof aerial is preferred, though some other options are available. However, definitely avoid the Calearo DAB aerial (ANC7677932). They are equivalent in appearance to (and I believe the same manufacturer of) the standard non-DAB aerial, however mine suffered component failure last year, less than two years after installation (definitely no water ingress) yet the response was "1 year warranty - hard luck". Buy the VW Sharkfin instead - part number 6R0035501D, plenty brand new from Germany on ebay for a reasonable price. They are a popular modification and VW don't seem to have a 1-2 year replacement interval for car aerials, so hopefully they will last longer..!

The radio should display all details, since you have a Bolero. As far as I'm aware and have experienced, non-maxidot will not display any BT information.

I cannot offer any advice, but recall seeing the attached TPI in erwin. Hope it is of some use tpi 2023413-1.pdf

If it is only occuring when air conditioning is switched on then it could be related to the volume of gas in the system. A certain noise seems to occur when it is a little low (but still functioning). So a regas may fix your can/straw noise. The system should be pressure checked before they refill, so you'll likely become aware of any significant leaks and be able to deal with those at the time. But if it is making sounds with aircon off then there are other issues. Turn the fan off just to eliminate that (if it is the fan being noisy then you can drop the blower unit out from under the glove box fairly easily to remove debris & clean - or replace the unit). I suspect it may be noise from the compressor though. Your actions then should be directed by your attitude to risk and your tolerance for the noise. If you first inspect the centre bolt on the compressor, the condition of the auxillary drive belt and are also not of the opinion that the compressor is about to seize up imminently, then you could choose to just regass to (hopefully) eliminate one noise and just continue to monitor the other.

It would be useful to know which VIN checker reports this ABS issue - is it the website linked below? http://master.skoda-auto.com/mini-apps/recall-actions

Turn aircon off (just aircon, leave the fan speeds alone). Does it disappear?

Sounds like it is a MK1 1.8T, not a MK2 1.8TSI at all, I understand that EA888 series were only introduced in ~2007 and more specifically the 1.8TSI Octavia only 2008/9 at the earliest. A picture of the car/registration would be useful.

Yes, there is a setting for it. I believe it was under the Radio module coding as you'd expect, but I can't recall exactly where. Browse the available options to see what you can find.

My remote release will pop the boot hatch a little and, if you are standing there ready, you can then open fully without pressing the hatch button. However, if you miss it after a moment the second stage of the catch closes and you will then need to press the button to open the hatch. I'd never really thought about it that much, just considered that my latch mechanism was weak, but having replaced it last year when the motor was getting a little lazy I found that the new one behaved the same. It is likely an intentional feature; if you accidentally press the remote release button before driving off, the second stage of the catch will still stop it swinging open (at least until you see the hatch open warning on the dash and stop!)

For anyone else looking, Febi part number 39231 is the set of three bolts needed per side. You may be able to get those for £5-6 per set.

Brand new in boxes, Monroe MK203. Bought for a MK2 2010 Octavia last year but never used. Should fit other vehicles on the same platform, likely MK5/6 Golf, A3 etc - but it is up to you to ensure that it is applicable in your case! Monroe online catalog- enter part number MK203 in the article number box http://ows-cdn.tecdoc.net/tae/home.jsp £30 delivered for pair (2) of top mounts.