silver1011

We’re all different, but if a 10mpg difference was influencing my decision on which car to buy, I’d be thinking I need to be looking at cheaper cars. Unless covering significant annual mileage the difference in fuel costs between petrol and diesel is a rounding error in the overall running costs of a £30,000+ car.

Cambelt is now 15 years / 150,000 miles. Petrol’s lack torque compared to the diesels, but I tow a 1.5 ton caravan with my 1.4 TSI, so it all depends on your expectations. I wouldn’t choose a car solely on its ability to tow unless I was towing regularly.

I’ll say it again, eh? The OP has already confirmed their Kodiaq is approved for towing. The sharing of a thread from someone who’s fitted an aftermarket towbar to a vRS is therefore surely relevant? The only person in this thread showing themselves up to be a bit of a “thickie” is you…

Eh? The OP asks about wiring and coding, all of which is mentioned in detail in the linked thread. What concern is it of yours anyway?

At least here in the UK, ‘towbar preparation’ isn’t standard on any model, it’s a factory cost option.

Used painted mirror caps are rare, due to the same reason you’re struggling to find one. Buy any colour you can find, or a new one (in primer) and have it paint matched by a local body shop or coachworks. My black Scout came with metallic silver caps to match the front and rear bumper trim. Genuine caps can be had for £45 each from a UK dealer… https://shop.wingsskoda.co.uk/products/skoda-mirror-caps-silver-for-karoq-and-kodiaq There are lots of Kodiaq / Karoq caps in primer on eBay for less than £30 each.

You might be surprised how a same colour door from off another Kodiaq won’t match the colour of your Kodiaq, despite being the same colour, if that makes sense. It’ll probably be easier and ultimately a better match if you find any coloured door and have it painted and blended to match your car. There’s a brand new one on eBay for £300, item number 186165063629.

Ah, that might be the case, I selected 2018/11 (applicable to my car).

The three low volume beeps are a warning that the battery is close to not being able to start the engine. the U140600 fault code suggests that the car is detecting a higher than expected current draw. What was the reason for changing the battery? What non-standard electrical items are fitted to the car i.e. dash cam, phone charger, anything plugged into the 12V sockets?

I get the option to ‘Download PDF’…

How do you mean you can’t download them? Skoda offer them here to download for free… https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Models

It’s not just Skoda, the DSG gearbox (there are several versions) is shared across the whole Volkswagen Audi Group (VAG). There are many hundreds of thousands of DSG’s out there and so as a percentage I’d imagine the failure rate is very low. However it’s achilles heel appears to be its complexity, in particular the electronic brain or ‘mechatronics’. More recently (6-12 months) there have been more reports of mechatronics failures than I remember from previous years (engaging only odd or even gears and/or no reverse gear), specifically the Kodiaq albeit earlier models. There are a few UK-based Facebook groups and reports of issues are now averaging 1-2 per week. You’re still under the manufacturers warranty, and at 3 years old you can purchase Skoda’s All-In warranty which is seemingly pretty good (covering the mechatronics) for less than £700 for two years (also includes servicing, MOT’s and breakdown).

It seems VAG are having issues with their mechatronics, there is always the odd complaint of a failure here and there, but in recent months there have been lots, far more than normal. Something isn’t right and Skoda know it. Their supplier probably can’t build them fast enough.

Has the cambelt been changed? if they’re charging over £1,000 to replace just the pulley bolts (less than £20 of parts, so the rest is presumably labour) then you may as well have them change the cambelt and tensioners whilst they’re at it. Strange pricing as a complete replacement cambelt for a 1.4 TSI is less than £800 at a main dealer and they remove the same bolts anyway. Ask them to perform a cambelt change and save yourself £200+, the bolts are stretch bolts and must be replaced after each removal…

I’m running two vehicles, one with Michelin Crossclimates, the other Goodyear Vector 4season Gen3’s. Not entirely sure how it’s possible to compare tyres, I just buy the most expensive I can afford and hope for the best.

I still use copper slip, it has served me well. As with everything in life, an element of common sense is required.

How were the maps fed to car before you started the update? Was there an SD card in either slot to start with?

I thought there were two versions of Lane Assist? Lane Assist and Adaptive Lane Guidance, one being more or less standard on all Kodiaq’s, the other requiring / utilising the ACC cost option?

It’s ETB’s problem, keep taking it back until they get it right…

But the gear change paddles work right? I had a 2011 Skoda Superb with a telephony button on the steering wheel, but no Bluetooth option fitted from the factory. Manufacturers have been doing it for years.

Given that production is coming to an end on the MkI they’re probably running out of steering wheels, so you’ve had a free upgrade?

I’ve just checked the owners manual, from 2009… https://manual.skoda-auto.com/004/en-com/Detail?model=Octavia_1Z&edition=05-2009&market=&manualLang=en It seems that the hatchback still has the P21/4W twin filament bulb for the upper brake / tail function. It’s the estate that gets the single filament brake / tail bulb. Assuming it is the brake / tail function that has failed (the highest bulb in the ‘C’) then you’ll need one of these… https://www.halfords.com/motoring/bulbs/566-p21%2F4w-car-bulb-manufacturers-standard-halfords-single-pack-717961.html?istCompanyId=b8708c57-7a02-4cf6-b2c0-dc36b54a327e&istFeedId=367c5610-f937-4c81-8609-f84582324cd6&istItemId=wlimawawa&istBid=t&_$ja=tsid:|cid:18030148076|agid:|tid:|crid:|nw:x|rnd:5849715147702503271|dvc:m|adp:|mt:|loc:1007266&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAx_GqBhBQEiwAlDNAZh6gSMrdhw8R51pJ6_toGImxs5igh7j3GxsEFRwb7w4nrmmz8I3ewBoC6hkQAvD_BwE

There are four tail light bulbs per side, arranged in a ‘C’ shape. The upper section is brake / tail. Earlier models used a 21/5W twin filament bulb, later models (including your 2009) should have a single filament 21W bulb, the car regulating the voltage depending on the required output. The middle two bulbs are 3W (W3W). If you use 5W they may work but they often bring on the blown bulb warning and blacken quickly. The lower section is the same as the brake / tail but fog / tail instead, the fog being enabled for offside only.

Sorry, I didn’t realise you’d already had it done. Although if they didn’t clean the gauze filter then I’d be tempted to have the Haldex serviced again sooner rather than later.