Tech1e

What is the voltage if you move the negative test lead to the other end of the earth cable?

And the switch is in the correct position?

Needs a diagnostic check ideally but a failing battery would be a good place to start,

Valve block is its official title, but quite often refereed to as the vacuum box. Doesn't look like a MK1 Fabia.

Injector controls? As mentioned previously, I don't generally top up the reservoir, if it's got a leak, sort the leak. But if the level needs adjusting we would usually use a syringe.

You can tell without even diagnosing it? But then rattle off a list possibilities that require diagnosis lol Also I am not your ‘mate’ and don’t appreciate the aggressive tone.

Cheaper for them? Guess it depends if the dealer is local or not.

Why don't they just order a replacement key? Unless they are non genuine.

I supply and fit for £330.

A few phrases come to mind while tinkering this weekend. "Listen to your own advice" "Buy cheap, do twice" When rebuilding the front hubs I bought a pair of ebay cheapy front bearings. 50/50 chance that they will last and that proved spot on. After only a few hundred miles in reality (due to lockdown) the left front wheel bearing started grumbling. So I fitted up a spare hub with a decent FAG brand wheel bearing ready to swap over.

Most of the time you shouldn't really have to top the brake fluid level up. It doesn't (or at least shouldn't) go anywhere. If the level has dropped it will be as the pads have worn down (or a leak). Replace pads and the level will be back up, if you top up while the pads are low you will have to remove fluid when they are replaced.

A fault code check would be the way to start rather than all this guessing.

Sounds like the purge valve on the charcoal canister to me.

The V-maxx are very good for the money, but nothing on the Bilsteins.

Not a chance

I agree, I keep on top of my wheels anyway but it does make easy work, non acidic too.

Not much in the way of change of late, just a deep wheels off clean.

Would seem a little presumptuous to just change parts without diagnosing if they are faulty. Was the original EGR valve not holding vacuum? Stuck? Clogged?

Hopefully a useful guide to replacing the window regulator on the MK1 Fabia. MK1 Fabia window regulator.pdf

I have just installed a Pioneer aftermarket head unit to my MK1 Fabia so i thought I'd knock up a 'how to' as some questions still arise. Step 1 - Using suitable release tools, release the stereo.

New Fabia picked up yesterday. Cayenne orange yet again, full service history, two new tyres and in very clean condition. No plans as such other than a good service and the usual bushes. Needs a window reg so I’ll do that with a new ‘how to’ for the guides section I think.

As many of you will know, I have been retrofitting cruise control to VAG vehicles for over 20 years. From the early days on the MK1 Octavia to pioneering the Fabia install (for those that remember Fabia-vrs.com) before the kits were available off the shelf. Cruise control is retrofitted using new genuine parts (unless otherwise stated). Up until I left the dealer network three years ago, I was a fully trained Skoda Master Technician. I have a full version of VCDS and can carry out long coding. Example prices of drive-in, cruise-out retrofitting Octavia 2 £120 Octavia 1 and Superb 1 POA (check for parts that will be required as kits are now obsolete). MK1 Fabia £220 (all vRS models possible, require checking the level of the central electrics control unit for other models) MK2 Fabia >2009 £260 MK2 Fabia 2010> £350 Kits kits now discontinued Non-Skoda VAG models are also catered for. Ask for details. Fitting takes place at my unit near Worcester on Saturdays. For further information drop me a PM. Many thanks Ross