paulski

you should be able to force the flap open without damaging the body work with something like a plastic spatula or trim tool, or you can push flap in and out lots with the play thats there and see if that gets it moving again. There is just one torx screw to remove, once you have the flap open, to allow you to remove the whole filler neck part, and to replace the actuator which is part number: Fuel Flap Actuator - 7P0810773F its between £25-35 from various sources or the main dealer.

In my experience, rain drop number 3 on top of the stalk works well in most conditions, i.e, it wipes infrequently when just a sprinkle of rain but as rain gets harder it gets faster. On my estate model 2016 SEL, if selected in the infotainment menu "automatic rear wiper" it will intermittently wipe if the rain sensing gets to a speed when there are no breaks.

I think that the OP has learned from their mistake and we can all be happy that our contributions have made one driver safer. And such mistakes are more common I'm sure than we'd like to think. At least routine checks are at least part of the driving tests now. My 19 year old niece clearly knew her checks when I last saw her, as she asked to borrow my tyre gauge to check when cold 👍 My sister in law trusted a "friend" to inflate her tyres and drove from the southern England to Scotland and back, her numpty friend put them down to 18psi from a required 32. She said the steering was a bit odd! Now I'm the only one that checks them..

@Noms it's likely then that the TPMS was reset at the wrong pressure just to get rid of the alert on the dash at the dealer. So without pointing out the obvious, inflate to the correct pressure first, then go into your infotainment menus, and reset the tyre pressure warning, and you need to drive it a few miles straight after doing that for it to properly calibrate the system.

If perhaps of use to you in the future, you can get the sticker replaced, as if you look in the bottom right of each of the photos, 5E0.010.000.xx is the factory part number. But that would also lead me to question why its not there, as I had a Seat that was bought from a main dealer with 8k miles on it and 1 year old. It was missing this very label from when i bought it so got it from the dealer for a few quid and thought little of it. Little did i know until some years of ownship later, it had had a side impact crash and the whole rear quarter replaced including the filler lid. i foolishly thought at a low mileage and from a main dealer it would not have been sold with accident repair damage (lesson learned) Kept it for 12years ~190000 miles before scrapping it. The rear door repair had rusted and rear quarter was bubbling out by then. Take a close look at your paint work, body panel alignment and any sealants over welded area's.

Dsg: the gear lever pull back is spring loaded, so it's normal for it to pop back, on the dash display it will show D or S to show you which is selected. Driving modes : "eco" will lighten the steering and make the gear box change gear more economically. If you press the driving mode button by the gearstick, you can keep pressing it again and again to cycle it through the modes without having to touch the screen. Eco will also allow the Dsg to "coast" (it disengages the gear) when taking your foot off the accelerator, it can be a little unnerving at first, as soon as you apply the gas or brake it puts the gearbox back in gear. I find looking ahead its handy to save fuel on long journey's (a must at the moment!!!!).

Maps: first make a copy of what is on the SD card so you have a backup! Then Format it in FAT32 Note: using a Windows PC s best as there can be issues with formatting the card on an apple without other software. You can download which ever map ECE1, ECE2 etc will fit on the original card size, anything bigger then you will need a new bigger original SKODA sd card at cost. Once you have downloaded the new map, unzip and copy the whole unzipped folder over to the new card. Ensure that you move the Lock slider on the SD card back to the locked position else the Multimedia unit will not read it. if you need to change the key fob then its recommended to use good quality duracell or Panasonic batteries that are new. DSG : when you pull the lever back then you are in Sport, leave it there and this will hold the revs longer. When you move it to the left, it will then be in manual when you need to move the lever back and forth to change gear:-) like in a BTCC or rally car....lol.. To move back from S to D simply pull the lever back once more and it will return to D. hope that helps. 👍

Yes I have this (MY2016) on the rear offside passenger door, thought it was just mine😃 I just push it down but it soon lifts back up. I don't think it's even related to operation of the window either as they hardly ever get used.

totally agree with @langers2k, ground point A, is still a perfectly acceptable ground point and can be used for charging or jump starting without any issue. Unfortunately the manuals sometimes only add to confusion as they have to avoid being too technical 😃. As pointed out if the car was to have stop start, then you must only use Ground point A as connecting a charger or jump lead directly to the -ve battery terminal will (for want of a better description), confuse the battery monitoring system with the additional power being applied during charging or jump starting.

@Gaz correct I have a MIB2, car has no ACC. 6speed Dq250. From reading about the DSG's (recent article in CAR Mechanic on rebuilding 7 speed dry version) "both clutches default to open position and apply no clamping force, thus ensuring that sudden loss of power does not engage both clutches at the same time which would damage engine and gearbox". One would suspect that driver/occupants would need a change of underwear if that happened too 😀

My 2016 TDI DSG certainly stops the engine with the car still moving at times. In all modes to, be it S, D or ECO.

@Deck081, wishing you all the best with the flush. I had mine (2016 2.0 TDI) flushed twice by my independent, and it got some heat back. its done 15k miles since and the coolant in the expansion tank is still fine. But I check it monthly since the issue occurred. I had the expansion tank replaced at the same time, cost me £120 all in.

I would advise you to check the colour of the coolant in your expansion tank ( it should be bright pink). If it's browny orange, then it's probable that your matrix is blocked especially as you only have warm air not hot. Unfortunately it's not a quick/nor cheap fix, requiring all the coolant draining, flushing it multiple times and then replacement of the blocked matrix. Main Dealer will charge over £1000 to do that job as they will remove the dashboard to access the heater matrix. But it's possible for an independent to remove the matrix without taking the dashboard out.

+2 for the car shades here in my estate with no from factory window tints. Kids can see out of them well enough but adds privacy. They clip in tightly and are very well made. You can drive with the window down no problem. I take them out in the darker months though as they do reduce visibility. The rear windscreen shade on the estate is in two pieces, not sure for the hatch. But for me, it doesn't obstruct the rear view to bother me

Don't let the dealer fob you off if still in warranty. Insist coolant should not leave any residue/staining in the expansion tank. Mine is bright pink since my indy flushed my system, changed the coolant twice, and replaced the expansion tank for the latest revision that has no silica bag/ compartment 17k ago miles. My matrix is still part blocked as I decided to see how it was after their work but its bearable. there as another recent post on this subject and dealer quoted ~£1300 to rectify. It's a dash out job at main dealer.

Oh dear, sorry to hear of another victim of silikat bag. Mine went too but my indy flushed it twice and I've got some heat back on the drivers side but its not 100%. They charged me ~£100 to flush and the coolant is still pink a year or more on. Also changed the expansion tank in that price which is about £25-30. Dealer will cost the earth because they will remove the whole dash to change the matrix, however it's possible to remove the heater matrix from the passenger footwell after removing a few ducts and the heater fan under the dash. There's a video on you tube of someone doing it and a post on here that someone did it themselves I think.

Easy test for MIT silikat depositing it's granules into your system and blocking the heater matrix, is to check the air vents on the driver's side are as warm as the passenger side. I realised mine was blocked/playing up soon after a cambelt change, when my right hand was freezing every morning as it was blowing cold air out. 😆

The OP has stated, 1. Front of car struck a cat and that trim is missing. 2. Has had warning that front assist is malfunctioning. To me dealer is correct that it needs to be recalibrated. But there are independent specialists that can do this that may cost less than a dealer. The dealers dont often have the equipment themselves and sub it out. Google ADAS recalibration. Its up to the OP whether or not they want to repair it, but I know that on my insurance i have declared my vehicle has brake assist technology in the questions presented at renewal, as its now quite common place across many vehicle manufacturers, so if faulty it could potentially invalidate an insurance claim.

@J.R. My heater fan dial has a menu button, pressing that brings up an "animated" picture view of the dash. Press the settings, button bottom right and Auxiliary heater can be ticked on and off. My car is MY16 with amundsen mib 2.

So i was our earlier this morning, 4C outside, put AC in auto and heat to to 28C. I certainly noticed the revs increased to 1100rpm. I did have some heat from the vents even with the coolant temperature only just registering on the bottom of the gauge, so can only conclude it does work as suggested. Thanks all.

Thanks, well that'll explain why I'm not noticing it much. I think I can count on one hand the number times I've been out when ambient temperature has been less than 5C first thing. I tend to travel mid mornings. But is says none of that in the user manual, @fr1nklyn how did you learn that info. I've got the EA288 self study pdf stored.

Thx @langers2k, I guess the "edge" is probably a subjective observation too😀. My car's warmed up in 10mins or less on my drive out to work as I get a few miles on minor roads then onto an arterial A road. Certainly the EA288 is faster to warm than my old 1.9PD, that was freezing still after 15-20 minute commute! Anything in vcds that would tell me it's on? Must be something I can log...😆

My climate menu button on the dial shows I have the supplemental heater. (Not full on cold climate version that uses fuel to heat it up) I can't say I can notice a "significant" difference in my cabin temperature with it on or off over the few years I've owned my 2016 MK3. 2.0 TDI. Plus it's not been that cold down south this winter. Is it there to heat the cabin quicker only, and does anyone "notice" it clearly when the use theirs in the colder months? Observations appreciated. Thank you.

Welcome to our helpful community, as you can see no question gets ignored no matter how "obvious" to others. A very good point that those odometer buttons can be obscured depending on steering wheel and drivers position. to add a little more for you, when you fill up with fuel, the main trip computer (found using either the main screen or the thumb wheels on the steering wheel) will reset some items such as distance since refuel, distance range, average mpg average speed etc. It does also record distance since you first started driving, however unlike the button A you used to reset the mileage counter behind the steering wheel, it restarts that distance record if you stop for about two hours or more. I have to record mileage for work travel and use the "button A " menu so it records my full day despite long stops. Regards.

Imo it will not hurt to service once per annum irrespective of milage travelled. And I think long life servicing is not the best regime for cars that are used less than 10k per annum. Obviously it's your money and your choice. But yes you could leave it for 12k miles more if on long life schedule.