paulski

I would have thought that you would have SMART LINK already available on that year of Octavia Scout? it might be more user friendly connecting a Smartphone to it and using either APPLE CarPlay or Android Auto ( I would add I don't have Smartlink enabled on my octavia but alot of others prefer it to the infotainment) Octavia SATNAV has its "quirks" for sure. You can enter a postcode but its a bit buried, I don't mind mine to be honest but do understand you having to let off steam! I use the voice activation to enter address's and it works ok most of the time.

https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/416042-fitting-removable-towbar-comprehensive-instructions/?tab=comments#comment-5255020 It's in here as a PDF.

There is a full guide a member wrote on the forum to install a towbar with masses of pictures. Have a search I'm sure you'll find it.

Factory trailer prep only adds the wiring loom to the rear quarter. As @PetrolDavesays. Once the module is added that's when coding is required to tell the car system to behave differently when trailer is attached, i.e it turns off the rear parking sensors. I would suggest you look at options and costs from an independent towbar fitter with the understanding that you want it fully integrated. You'll be unlikely to get a main dealer to fit one anyway. They just sub out towbar fitting to independents generally anyway from reading threads on here. a good independent will have the software to code it in anyway as that's how it's done on CANbus cars. You cannot just chop wires into the loom with scotch blocks like they did years back!

Quick search pulled up this from another thread. "There will be a PR code for towbar prep on the sticker on the boot floor. I think 1D0 is no towbar prep, 1D7 is towbar prep." and from a PDF from PJ Jones trailers i found this further confirming the coding:-) My car has a Westfalia towbar (that I've never used lol) and my VCDS confirms that it's all been coded. Here is my boot sticker too. The coding can be done with VCDS or ODIS or OBD 11 i expect It tells the car it has a trailer control module and also the ABS module is recoded to adjust the bias to the braking. If a DSG car then this also prevents the Eco mode from "Coasting" with the trailer hitched. (DSG coasting is where the gearbox is out of gear but not really in neutral and a mere dab of the accelerator or brake put the autobox straight in gear again)

I really don't get why they thought this vehicle had a haldex service due. Just a thought, does the facelift 2.0 TDI have the dry 7 speed box then, as my 2016 2.0 TDI has the dq250 which is the 6 speed wet box requiring an oil change every 40k miles. Have they confused haldex with a Dsg service perhaps? And to add my two pence worth, I would stick to 10k mile oil changes as a maximum on any VW group TDI and ignore long life servicing. They use the same oil for either 10k or extended service intervals these days.

My car has unheated Alcantara seats and I just bought a Vax spotwash Duo. Can I wet vac these seats. I just don't know if this material is ok to wet vac with a mild fabric detergent? Thanks.

I think you need to differentiate between air con and heating😄. They are independent systems. To see if heater matrix is blocked usually the driver's side is cold and the passenger side warmer as heater pipes come in from the passenger side. Check the colour of the water in the coolant header tank, it should be pink. If it's all browny then suspect silica bag has split and then it's gone into the heater matrix.

Your part number is the same as my 2016 and therefore should be a MIB2, and you clearly have the option to have Smart Link enabled as your screen shot shows what mine does, as I've never bothered to get it enabled😀 If you don't know and sorry to patronise if so, Smart link allows the mobile phone Apps, CarPlay (apple phone) or AndroidAuto (android phones) to connect via a cable through the usb port and provides integration of the app to the Mib display. So you can get apps displayed on the display. I.e Waze or Google maps, however you won't get anything in the dashboard MaxiDot display from what I understand. Any Skoda Main dealer should be able to activate it for circa £150 (might be more now). You might get some reluctancy as it's not a bread and butter job for them. And you might have to try and get hold of a master tech to get the front desk to understand what it is you want. I don't think "enabling smartlink" comes under "servicing" or my car's broke list they have will predominantly have access to🤣 If you search on Google there are a few independent retro fit companies offering it too that have a license for "Odis" that connects to the Skoda "Mothership" or "Skynet" (if you know the Terminator films) that allows the upgrade of the MiB unit. Best regards.

Imo, and I'm not saying it's not a possible with some thought, but I would doubt they would even consider pricing this work. Dealers are not interested in upgrades/retrofits as they make their money on servicing and faults which this sort of work does not fall under. As @PetrolDave has stated, there is a lot of work involved in this "mod". Unfortunately cars with halogen headlamps have cannot be improved much other than fitting brighter bulbs. I've used combinations of Phillips extremes and osram nightbreakers and they are whiter and do improve them buts it's not a "night and day" change. Regards.

I like it when the SatNav says "turn half right" what sort of manoeuvre instruction is that, rally driving I think!

Happy to assist here to clear airbag light fault and any coding adaptions required. My VCDs is genuine and I have both Hex-Can and Hex-V2 available. please PM me to arrange. Kind regards. Thanks for the mention @JGrindel 👍

you should be able to force the flap open without damaging the body work with something like a plastic spatula or trim tool, or you can push flap in and out lots with the play thats there and see if that gets it moving again. There is just one torx screw to remove, once you have the flap open, to allow you to remove the whole filler neck part, and to replace the actuator which is part number: Fuel Flap Actuator - 7P0810773F its between £25-35 from various sources or the main dealer.

In my experience, rain drop number 3 on top of the stalk works well in most conditions, i.e, it wipes infrequently when just a sprinkle of rain but as rain gets harder it gets faster. On my estate model 2016 SEL, if selected in the infotainment menu "automatic rear wiper" it will intermittently wipe if the rain sensing gets to a speed when there are no breaks.

I think that the OP has learned from their mistake and we can all be happy that our contributions have made one driver safer. And such mistakes are more common I'm sure than we'd like to think. At least routine checks are at least part of the driving tests now. My 19 year old niece clearly knew her checks when I last saw her, as she asked to borrow my tyre gauge to check when cold 👍 My sister in law trusted a "friend" to inflate her tyres and drove from the southern England to Scotland and back, her numpty friend put them down to 18psi from a required 32. She said the steering was a bit odd! Now I'm the only one that checks them..

@Noms it's likely then that the TPMS was reset at the wrong pressure just to get rid of the alert on the dash at the dealer. So without pointing out the obvious, inflate to the correct pressure first, then go into your infotainment menus, and reset the tyre pressure warning, and you need to drive it a few miles straight after doing that for it to properly calibrate the system.

If perhaps of use to you in the future, you can get the sticker replaced, as if you look in the bottom right of each of the photos, 5E0.010.000.xx is the factory part number. But that would also lead me to question why its not there, as I had a Seat that was bought from a main dealer with 8k miles on it and 1 year old. It was missing this very label from when i bought it so got it from the dealer for a few quid and thought little of it. Little did i know until some years of ownship later, it had had a side impact crash and the whole rear quarter replaced including the filler lid. i foolishly thought at a low mileage and from a main dealer it would not have been sold with accident repair damage (lesson learned) Kept it for 12years ~190000 miles before scrapping it. The rear door repair had rusted and rear quarter was bubbling out by then. Take a close look at your paint work, body panel alignment and any sealants over welded area's.

Dsg: the gear lever pull back is spring loaded, so it's normal for it to pop back, on the dash display it will show D or S to show you which is selected. Driving modes : "eco" will lighten the steering and make the gear box change gear more economically. If you press the driving mode button by the gearstick, you can keep pressing it again and again to cycle it through the modes without having to touch the screen. Eco will also allow the Dsg to "coast" (it disengages the gear) when taking your foot off the accelerator, it can be a little unnerving at first, as soon as you apply the gas or brake it puts the gearbox back in gear. I find looking ahead its handy to save fuel on long journey's (a must at the moment!!!!).

Maps: first make a copy of what is on the SD card so you have a backup! Then Format it in FAT32 Note: using a Windows PC s best as there can be issues with formatting the card on an apple without other software. You can download which ever map ECE1, ECE2 etc will fit on the original card size, anything bigger then you will need a new bigger original SKODA sd card at cost. Once you have downloaded the new map, unzip and copy the whole unzipped folder over to the new card. Ensure that you move the Lock slider on the SD card back to the locked position else the Multimedia unit will not read it. if you need to change the key fob then its recommended to use good quality duracell or Panasonic batteries that are new. DSG : when you pull the lever back then you are in Sport, leave it there and this will hold the revs longer. When you move it to the left, it will then be in manual when you need to move the lever back and forth to change gear:-) like in a BTCC or rally car....lol.. To move back from S to D simply pull the lever back once more and it will return to D. hope that helps. 👍

Yes I have this (MY2016) on the rear offside passenger door, thought it was just mine😃 I just push it down but it soon lifts back up. I don't think it's even related to operation of the window either as they hardly ever get used.

totally agree with @langers2k, ground point A, is still a perfectly acceptable ground point and can be used for charging or jump starting without any issue. Unfortunately the manuals sometimes only add to confusion as they have to avoid being too technical 😃. As pointed out if the car was to have stop start, then you must only use Ground point A as connecting a charger or jump lead directly to the -ve battery terminal will (for want of a better description), confuse the battery monitoring system with the additional power being applied during charging or jump starting.

@Gaz correct I have a MIB2, car has no ACC. 6speed Dq250. From reading about the DSG's (recent article in CAR Mechanic on rebuilding 7 speed dry version) "both clutches default to open position and apply no clamping force, thus ensuring that sudden loss of power does not engage both clutches at the same time which would damage engine and gearbox". One would suspect that driver/occupants would need a change of underwear if that happened too 😀

My 2016 TDI DSG certainly stops the engine with the car still moving at times. In all modes to, be it S, D or ECO.

@Deck081, wishing you all the best with the flush. I had mine (2016 2.0 TDI) flushed twice by my independent, and it got some heat back. its done 15k miles since and the coolant in the expansion tank is still fine. But I check it monthly since the issue occurred. I had the expansion tank replaced at the same time, cost me £120 all in.

I would advise you to check the colour of the coolant in your expansion tank ( it should be bright pink). If it's browny orange, then it's probable that your matrix is blocked especially as you only have warm air not hot. Unfortunately it's not a quick/nor cheap fix, requiring all the coolant draining, flushing it multiple times and then replacement of the blocked matrix. Main Dealer will charge over £1000 to do that job as they will remove the dashboard to access the heater matrix. But it's possible for an independent to remove the matrix without taking the dashboard out.