paulski

Once the fault is on it can only be cleared with a diagnostic tool, and as @Paws4Thot says the fault code would highlight the where the problem lies. You won't get much further without diagnostics being used to find the fault code logged.

@ords agree with that if its working you could leave it alone. the thing with Climate is that its on all the time (albeit the AC won't run when temperatures are below 5C) and this helps keep the refrigerant gas and oil moving around and they loose less than manual A/C systems. I would add though that I have mine serviced every few years by a trust worthy mobile A/C specialist in my area and it does loose refrigerant between them, around 10-15%. I like that its all he does is A/C system repairs and servicing. Being an engineering scientist 👨‍🔬I'm very nosey, and he's happy for me to watch and see the weight of the refrigerant extracted so he can determine how much its lost each visit.😁

A search of the forum indicates that removal of just the caliper and disc allows the dust shield to be replaced and no need to remove the hubs.

@Blue8793841 Part number is in Skinnymans invoice above TANK. 5Q0121407M.

They changed the matrix. They changed the expansion tank to the revised version (denoted by an M on the end of the part number) no silica bag/insert. I had one installed when my silica ticking time bomb turned the coolant rusty coloured after my cambelt got changed...☹️. (My heater matrix is still partially blocked though, I just wear more clothes in winter and turn the driver vents off else my right hand turns to ice....lol) As mentioned the coolant should a nice tinge of pink, I can see to the very bottom of my expansion tank with the cap off. Looks like you can't. Take it back in and complain its not right! Do you have an even heat with the dash vents open on BOTH sides of the car?

My previous car, a 2005 Seat had the 1.9pd 105 lump. What a reliable engine that was, it did over 185k miles with only one minor engine fault. I was in the same position as you are, the rest of the car was so tired, electric gremlins in all doors, dmf was going so had to chop it in. Going from that to the 2.0 was like night and day. It really is effortless. I will admit that the Dsg took me some time to get used to, I read up on it after purchase to understand it better.

Obviously biased reply as not had any other engines in an Octavia but I've a 2016 SEL 2.0tdi with Dsg Estate. It's effortless to drive with this combo. Loads of torque to overtake even when fully loaded for holidays. £35 road tax now. Gets me over 500 miles per tank without fail as a daily driver on my mix of a and b road travels for work. I rarely get above 50mph most trips. Dpf regens once per tank and has done for 55 k miles of ownership. Now on 103k miles. If going estate, variable boot floor is excellent if was optioned at first sale. Factors to consider: dsg oil change on dq250 is every 40k miles. It's got a lot more expensive in last few years so check it's been done when buying. Check colour of coolant expansion tank on all TDI's you view. It should be bright pink and for full heat on both sides of the car WITHOUT FAIL, if is colder on the DRIVERS side walkaway from that car. This is sign heater matrix is blocked. I have suffered as others across the VAG group from a blocked heater matrix due to silica bag issue. It's well documented on the forum. So have a read. It can be mitigated early but if it goes it's going to cost. Main dealer is £1100+...dash out but can be done cheaper without removing the dash. As soon as I got mine (purchased with 47k miles) I went to religiously getting it serviced at 10k miles without fail. I get oil and filter every 10k and all other filters at every 20k with oil. Love my Octavia for its comfort economy and versatility with big boot. Early MK3 had reputably poor sound system Speakers. My 2016 was a lot better than a 2015 model my colleague had. Smart link that gives Android auto or apple carplay connectivity via a cable to your phone was an "option" on my model and not activated (at cost from dealer). SatNav is not "friendly" interface, and now has lost Traffic alerts/ redirection on route guidance due TMC service it used from FM frequency being turned off by traffic master in 2023. Good luck.👍

When you say stereo is shocking, enlighten me us. I was once (when I had more hair lol) an ICE enthusiast, not mega systems full of amps in the boot but more just upgrades to the OEM speakers with decent Focal 165mm two ways and subs My 2016 SEL system is more than adequate from all sources to my ears, , DaB, fM, SD card, Bluetooth from Spotify etc. your car is later than mine so would expect it to be similar in musical clarity? My first suggestion is to move the fader to fronts only, the rears have too much of the mid and they significantly interfere with sound upfront. The front tweeters can let a bit too much mid through IMO and there is a hack to add capacitor across them to drop the mid frequency from them. Regarding Skoda Surround/Virtual Bass this can be enabled with VCDS (diagnostic software) but I found it awful and turned it off. when it was enabled it was a menu option in the settings for Sound in the menu's.

Take the rubbers completely out, then slide the carriers on and clamp them up, then cut the rubbers to fit in around the carriers mounting plates/points. Don't throw away the bits of rubber left over though, as then you can pop those bits back in to make a complete length, if removing the carriers and leaving the bars on the roof.

very odd problem this, I have the Wingbar with two 591 bike racks, but I will add that I do find that the two bolts on the carrier won't clamp down fully, unless I find the sweet spot on the threads by winding them up or down which you have clearly tried already. I usually have to be up over them to clamp them down, they do take some force for sure. Its certainly worth measuring the distances between the bars on both sides to ensure they are parallel, I got well fussy with at tape measure then I put my bars on. @DJBlobbyJust to add without being too patronizing, you are trying to clamp them down without the rubber insert in the bar aren't you, as you need to cut the rubbers from around the clamping points, you can then slide some bits back in around them to prevent wind noise.

My Thule roof bar set comprises a 757 foot pack with a 969 Wing bar

In my experience the regens take care of themselves in normal driving conditions. I get one per tank of mixed driving every tank full since owning the car and having put 55k miles on it since purchase at 46k miles. Even if I interrupt a regen it still completes on the next journey fine. Your oil ash mass looks very similar to mine at around 60k miles as have logged it regularly. I own VCDS and I understand it's tempting to understand how to carry out functions with software to hand "if the need arises", but as long as you notice regens occuring, and don't interrupt too often, DPF should be good for a good while yet. Of course, checking values with diagnostics will give you peace of mind it's doing what's supposed to.

@Nexus21 First step, Run a full "auto scan" and save this. Go to applications Controller Maps. You have to do each one, one at a time. Can take a while for some, so ensure battery is in good state of charge. Now from your auto scan, it will list each module number e.g 01 is engine, 03 ABS etc In the controller map "address" input the module number you want 03 will be ABS and 5F should be infotainment) suggest you also do 09 (central electrics) and 19 (CAN Gateway). Makes sure Adaptations and CSV are "selected". Hit "Go" they are stored in VCDS "LOGS" logs folder on your computer. Assuming you have excel they can be opened in that as CSV.

@Nexus21 have you downloaded and backed up your Admaps (or controller maps) for your car using VCDS? these show all adaptions for each module and may shed some light on if the coding is right or wrong. If not let me know and I can guide on how to.

If sensor at the wheel faulted, VCDS would have error in ABS module as well. That's where I'd be looking next. But given your knowledge of VCDS, I expect the autoscan has already been checked. Hope you find the culprit soon, sorry not to be able to offer any more clues.

@Nexus21 Can you access via the infotainment: "Menu" "Settings" "tyres" ? IMO, such a setting in the infotainment system, would be unusual to "disappear" unless coding has been messed with. Sorry missed you'd tried tyres menu option.

As mentioned greasing/lubricating these sorts of points on your car would prevent a repeat expense. White lithium grease is recommended as it does not drip and repels water. £5-7 depending where you buy. I do my cars twice a year or so, all the door hinges, locks and bonnet catch.

My car went to main dealer a few times after purchase, they couldn't even manage to reset the service/inspection interval properly both times. Inspections/service intervals don't really require codes to be checked /cleared unless someone comes in with fault light or real fault. And even then if it's fixed, that's the only one that might get cleared not the whole system. To add, I've lost count the number of VCDS scans I've run for people and not one car has ever been fully clear of at least one "fault" code being logged. Often just merely caused by low battery as mentioned. Nothing to be concerned about for sure.

@ApertureS can we have a time lapse video of you doing the dash strip down in a day😆

Dealer will be likely to take the dashboard out as per workshop manual to access the heater matrix. However it's possible to do without removing the whole dash, hence the massively difference in price!

I'm sure that @langers2k will be up to responding to this some time soon, sounds right up his street being one of the VCDS data communication platform guru's on here

I had the coolant expansion tank replaced and its no longer coming with the bag in it nor a double walled version with silica in a section of it. it does not have Mit Silikat printed on the outside either. Part number for the expansion tank was 5Q0121407M.

Not had matrix replaced as yet and have lived with it for over two years now, I leave the driver vents shut😃, and then allow the warmer passenger side to warm the cabin, it's tolerable as I'm on the south coast and its not really cold for very long periods generally. The garage flushed the coolant twice, but alas it made little difference. Yes part isn't high cost, labour as you say varies where you are, so difficult to determine that cost.

Hi all, I usually have my mirrors folding on lock/unlock but have disabled this in the menu for now as it's been below zero for the last few mornings. But, could the folding mirror mechanism be damaged if the gap between lower and upper part freezes and the motor cannot then move it?, I wondered the motor would have a current overload protection circuit, to know if it's using more energy to stop it trying further?

@Moribund My coolant was that colour sort of rusty, but I never saw silica granules in it, it's odd for sure that it discolours. I had the coolant flushed out twice but alas, the matrix is still cold on drivers side, once blocked with silica beads, it ain't going to come out as the pipes are very thin and cannot be unblocked. I reckon a good indy garage would do the matrix for 3-4 hours labour plus parts. Coolant drained, remove glove box remove heater blower remove matrix. install new matrix reinstall removed parts refill with new coolant and bleed.