numskull

Nicely loaded car which seems to be in VGC.

Said it once, but I’ll say it again; you are a complete, but also a quite amazing NUTTER AS! Absolutely incredible jaw-dropping work, which no sane person would even think about attempting; quite brilliant - I applaud you! 👏🏻

I’d like to get rid of the bag in the expansion tank, so will just either take the tank out and get rid or chuck in a new tank minus the bag. Once that’s done, I guess the system will be OK until it needs to be flushed and replaced? If so, at that point, what antifreeze should be used; G13 or G12Evo?

Welcome. When you say you’ve pulled the window buttons up, did you then continue to hold them up for a few seconds once the windows had closed?

So that’ll be two then, not “always”. You really should be more specific before chucking insults around. Ahhh right. Go ahead with another classy insult. Unfortunately, specifications only ever tell half the story. Impulse response is pretty irrelevant as the speakers you’re using are so restricted in their operation due to their location. Additionally, you’re in a confined space with your head less than a metre from a speaker. My home speakers are renowned through the world. The Tannoys have a maximum load of just 30w, but they are highly efficient. I have no idea if they can produce “significant output below 40hz” because A. I don’t care and B. music in the real world, isn’t all about ground-moving bass. You’re obviously still in the upgrade insanity I was in when I was a kid in the ‘70’s, when I too was deeply impressed with spurious manufacturers specifications. Unfortunately, you’re so obstinate and naive to even consider that people with more practical life experience might actually know what they’re talking about. Seeya….

Me too…

Always pours out of both mine in weather like this, especially with the flaps open. Wouldn’t be worried about it.

Really? I ALWAYS do, do I? Please quote another 5 threads regarding car audio on which I’ve commented. Additionally, you will note I did say the Canton system is the best OEM sound I’ve ever had in any vehicle. Well looking at the quality of the installation in your Superb, it must be true. I bet it’s really loud too, with amazing bass which people in houses you drive past can not only hear, but actually feel? I think I’ve been around a little longer than you, and I when I was in my mid 20’s, I used to goto many HiFi demonstrations and there was alway car HiFi demos too, built by companies like Pioneer, Alpine, Kenwood, Sharp, Blaupunkt, Technics and JVC, all of whom produced aftermarket HiFi. And yes, the sound was good…ish…. with the doors and boot open, so not that practical. So I do have a clue. But tell me; why do you need 100’s of watts of output in a space smaller and less acoustically sound than my bathroom? I ask as an excellent 60w HiFi amp, like my 1970 TEAC AS200S, or my 1979 JVC AX-3, running efficient speakers such as my Tannoy Lancasters, or KEF 103.3 easily fills a room four times the size of your Superb with quality HiFi sound running at 15w a channel.

Don’t think we’ve had an issue with those. It’s a 2003 2.0 Ghia Zetec with a genuine 68k. It was a runout ex FMC Management car, so the parts bins were being run down, so it’s very well loaded vs a standard Ghia; climate, sunroof, leather, heated front seats, electric windows all round and central closing.

😁👍🏻 Happened to me today. I had to remove the rear bumper from SWMBO Focus today, as we’re getting water ingress again through the welding seams. Undid the four plastic expanding rivets and the ones in the wheel arch and it refused to move. So NOW I decide to look at the Haynes manual and find there are two bolts behind the wheel arch liner! 🙄 Finally got it off, removed the old sealing compound and replaced it with guttering sealant this time. Hopefully that’ll last a bit longer.

The first time I drove a car with EPB, a rental Seat, I admit, I had no idea WTF I was doing. I kept pulling the switch up at lights, pushing it down when I pulled away. I had no idea it automatically went on and off. I also couldn’t for the life of me workout how the cruise worked, so I downloaded the manual and that also put me straight on the brakiness.

Then they’re idiots. You need to use an ignition controlled fuse. I piggybacked on the rear wash/wipe.

I only run the 280 on Momentum. I’ll check it when I’m home tomorrow and let you know, Colin. The chemical isn’t imported by my mate anymore, so you’d have to contact the manufacturer to find out if it’s still imported. They also make diesel fuel line and DPF cleaner too.

You’re not alone. My SiL has just bought a 22 Audi RS5 Sportback. He couldn’t find the windscreen washer bottle, nor the expansion tank. Of course he didn’t RTFM…

It’s the new Skoda design theme.

Why do you manually release the EPB? I don’t touch the brake system; it releases when it goes into D and I drive off and fully activates the brake when it goes back into P.

Is it this one? Incidentally, I use fuel system cleaners occasionally in both the 280 and the Focus. I use a product produced by a German government-approved manufacturer which was imported by my best mate, which was sold to independents and also Halfords and a couple of other bigger players. It’s amazing stuff. The Focus travels just 3 miles a day and the MPG on the Focus goes from 20.5 to 24 which is amazing. This improvement generally lasts 4-6 months. I use it in the 280 annually, as my commute is the same as my wife but, of course, the engine is far more efficient.

It won’t be out a “few” splines I can assure you. Remove the arm and reposition it one spline and that’ll cure the issue.

I have Auxito indicators and reversing LED’s and haven’t had any issues with them either.

More “defined” and rich”? The bass you mean? Because that’s what beautifully rich and defined music needs… more bass, by the addition of an enormous sub, capable of being effective in a room 10x the size of the Superb cabin? Ahhhh, right. I knew I was missing something…. 🙄

If you think the Cantom system is “OK”, you should heard the OEM systems in a well equipped car 25 years ago; trust me, there’s no comparison. It’s a car, so it’s not designed for the production of any form of HiFi. Your head is in the wrong place to get any form of stereo or realistic surround sound. DSP programmes (another pointless gimmick) sound weird for the same reason. It seems to me that the main preoccupation with customisation of sound systems in cars is to produce 100’s or even of ‘000’s of watts of noise and massive bass. To me it’s about the quality of the sound, not the volume.

Have you tried the previous coding you did on the Golf?

Best OEM sound I’ve had in any car, but what’s the point you’re making?

OK, so if I’m reading this this right, there is supposed to be a setting which can (or should already be) enabled to stop axle tramp which using launch control? Well, the first bit of advice would be to use launch control a few times or better still, not at all, because it prematurely wears the clutch packs. Yes, I have used launch control once on a private road and got no judder or tramping at all, just extremely fast acceleration with no wheel spin. So I don’t get why you’re suffering axle tramp, as that is usually associated with FWD vehicles, not 4x4’s. Here’s the code for the comfort indicators. Module: 09 (Central Electronics) Security Access → Code: 31347 Module: 09 (Central Electronics) Adaptation → Channel: Turn signal control-Komfortblinken New value: active Module: 09 (Central Electronics) Adaptation → Channel: Turn signal control-Komfortblinken Blinkzyklen New value: from 2 to 5 Save the changes, exit VCDS and do a factory reset of the lights in the infotainment unit.

Never heard of this, so a bit more enlightenment on what this is/does would be great?