numskull

Is it this one? Incidentally, I use fuel system cleaners occasionally in both the 280 and the Focus. I use a product produced by a German government-approved manufacturer which was imported by my best mate, which was sold to independents and also Halfords and a couple of other bigger players. It’s amazing stuff. The Focus travels just 3 miles a day and the MPG on the Focus goes from 20.5 to 24 which is amazing. This improvement generally lasts 4-6 months. I use it in the 280 annually, as my commute is the same as my wife but, of course, the engine is far more efficient.

It won’t be out a “few” splines I can assure you. Remove the arm and reposition it one spline and that’ll cure the issue.

I have Auxito indicators and reversing LED’s and haven’t had any issues with them either.

More “defined” and rich”? The bass you mean? Because that’s what beautifully rich and defined music needs… more bass, by the addition of an enormous sub, capable of being effective in a room 10x the size of the Superb cabin? Ahhhh, right. I knew I was missing something…. 🙄

If you think the Cantom system is “OK”, you should heard the OEM systems in a well equipped car 25 years ago; trust me, there’s no comparison. It’s a car, so it’s not designed for the production of any form of HiFi. Your head is in the wrong place to get any form of stereo or realistic surround sound. DSP programmes (another pointless gimmick) sound weird for the same reason. It seems to me that the main preoccupation with customisation of sound systems in cars is to produce 100’s or even of ‘000’s of watts of noise and massive bass. To me it’s about the quality of the sound, not the volume.

Have you tried the previous coding you did on the Golf?

Best OEM sound I’ve had in any car, but what’s the point you’re making?

OK, so if I’m reading this this right, there is supposed to be a setting which can (or should already be) enabled to stop axle tramp which using launch control? Well, the first bit of advice would be to use launch control a few times or better still, not at all, because it prematurely wears the clutch packs. Yes, I have used launch control once on a private road and got no judder or tramping at all, just extremely fast acceleration with no wheel spin. So I don’t get why you’re suffering axle tramp, as that is usually associated with FWD vehicles, not 4x4’s. Here’s the code for the comfort indicators. Module: 09 (Central Electronics) Security Access → Code: 31347 Module: 09 (Central Electronics) Adaptation → Channel: Turn signal control-Komfortblinken New value: active Module: 09 (Central Electronics) Adaptation → Channel: Turn signal control-Komfortblinken Blinkzyklen New value: from 2 to 5 Save the changes, exit VCDS and do a factory reset of the lights in the infotainment unit.

Never heard of this, so a bit more enlightenment on what this is/does would be great?

Says it all really. Happy Christmas to everyone. 👍🏻🎄

Oh and Easy Entry moves the drivers seat back when you enter the car and moves it forward when you start it. I don’t think you can disable KESSY as I think it’s integrated with the start system, so the car wouldn’t start.

I went down the hardwire route using a Nextbase hardwire kit as I didn’t want a wire dangling from the camera. It was actually pretty easy to install. This might help… …and this. Ignore the fact it’s an estate as the install is the same as the hatch.

Didn’t know the EA888 had VVT.

Make sure you’re no more than 2 meters from the rear of the car. Press and hold the tailgate button on the remote and release it when it begins to close.

Use it all the time; works brilliantly.

I reckon you need to listen to the people who know through experience and training that’s booloks. I just don’t get why you’d disbelieve them?

Weird. Can you identify where around the engine the noise is emanating?

My insurance literally doubled in July. Went from £267 to £590. Managed to get it to £390 through Chris Knott, a Briskoda sponsor. It’s the underwriting insurance cartel which has got together and decided to rack-up the costs. Blatant profiteering.

Of course. It’s Wheelbase in Hersham. The owner, Colin Marshall is a knowledgeable and very nice guy. They have all the OE diagnostic kit and full access to VAG service, so they can update your service record. I first used them in 2010 when our MKI Superb PD140 blew its oil pump and I had it towed there by the RAC. Colin said it was a known design fault with the PD140 engine and he was sure that an authorised dealer could get full parts contribution from Skoda. He used a local guy for recovery, got me a great price to take it to my then dealer, Ridgeway in Reading. They did get full parts contribution (around £4k) and part contribution on labour. I had to pay £700. I say all this to show Colin is a straight up and down guy. They have free courtesy cars and normally short advance bookings. They are cheaper than main dealers too.

That’s terrible. And I’m a a loss how the heck that happened.

I gave up using dealers in 2020. I use an excellent VAG Specialist indy a few miles away, who’ve been established for 20+ years, for all work and servicing on the 280.

As they’re supposed to come with two umbrellas, just get the dealer to supply you with them. They’ve probably been nicked and sold on eBay before PDI.

I just turn the Stop/Start system off.

I’ve found the VW Lane Assist system, compared to other manufacturers systems, to be excellent too. The one on a Kia Ceed (🤮) I drove the other day was atrocious; very jerky and over sensitive.

I don’t think there’s anything wrong with the DCC set up except comfort and normal are too soft. Sport should really be normal and normal comfort. I’ve never experienced the suspension bottoming-out. Having said that, when the Monroes fail, which undoubtedly they will at some point, I will be replacing them with Bilsteins.