numskull

Like me then…. Except when a **** is up my bumper as I’m in the middle lane at 75mph then it’s bye-bye time! 👋🏻

UPDATE TIME So last week I decided to finally get this sorted once and for all. I bought some cerium oxide (CO) and mixed it to a fairly thick consistency. Using the small lithium DA with a soft black flat pad, I set about cleaning the screen, concentrating on the contaminated area where the OS wiper ends on its sweep on both the vertical and horizontal, using up/down and left/right motion at a medium speed. After a dozen passes or so, the screen was completely smooth, with no sign of the contamination remaining. Incidentally, the screen remained completely cool during the process. I then did the same for the NS wiper. Once all the contamination was removed, I gave the entire screen a clean with a thinner mix of CO. The screen is now completely clean and the wipers are totally silent! 👍🏻 So I can thoroughly recommend CO to remove stubborn “stuff” on a windscreen.

Not if you have it on ambient temperature. It’s just about getting rid of the water hiding behind trim, mirror housings, badges, in the rain channels etc.

If you want a serious blast of air - hot or cold - to clear water from wheels, window crevices, engine bay etc. get one of these. Having tested it against my mates, its as powerful as one of these professional dryers. He was gutted! 😂

From this I gather you’re not a clown going round corners.

Yeah, 2nd that.

What’s the mileage on your 220? I think if you’re not planning on doing high mileage, I wouldn’t bother. Personally, it was a daft decision of mine to get the MKII 170 given the mileages I was doing at the time. In any event, I wouldn’t go back to a diesel.

Probably. TBH he didn’t volunteer the info; I asked if the under trays caused issues for the inspections and he said not really, as they can inspect the driveshafts though the wheelarch.

No idea. It comes with the charger itself. I’ve moved mine today to the chassis connection, as JS RS and AS pointed-out in the previous posts. Yesterday, I had the original MOLL EFB battery replaced by the RAC (finally gave up after 7.5 years) with a Varta AGM unit.

None of those would surprise me. 1. Halfords who last did the MOT said they inspectthe drive shafts through the opening in the inner arch, so no advisory on that one. 2 and 3. Do you tend to take corners in a “spirited” manner? I ask as my son tears through front tyres at an alarming rate (worn to the limit on the outer 1/3 of the tyre in 12k) yet in insists he doesn’t take corners that hard, til I pointed out he was generating about 5g at my neck as he whipped his CLK500 round corners. I took over driving, showed him what he does and he’s now slowed down. Or it could be low tyre pressures. 4. I’ve had that mentioned on the 22/23 MOT but not on the 23/24 one. I think it’s down to “visible interpretation”.

I’m guessing you tried the old “pull up the switch and keep holding it after the window closes for 10 seconds” thingy?

Cheers both. 👍🏻

What you’ve saved is the setting to which it’s been set. With the ignition on, reset your seat to the position you want, press the SET button then the memory you want to assign the memory to.

UPDATE So the RAC Patrol Technician arrived today at 0910. He tested the OE MOL battery and it failed the test, stating a failed cell. He’d brought a RAC Branded Varta Silver Dynamic AGM battery. He fitted it, coded and was all done in 30 mins. Perfect. Oh and seems the info I was given re the patrols being all done at 16.00 was nonsense; he got sent the job at 19.45 last night and he finished at 20.00, hence why I was his first appointment today.

Sorry, I should’ve been clearer; it’s the permanent connector I was referring to, not the charging clamps which, of course, means the illustration totally contradicts the text. 🙄

Why is this not advisable, AS? I only ask as the CTEK connectors supplied with their chargers are designed to fit directly to the battery terminal clamps, although I’ve always charged it via the 12v socket in the boot.

Didn’t make any difference on our 280 either. Bought an XLR pedal box from another member and that eliminated the lag completely, even when in standard mode.

It’s 7.5 years old so yeah, I’m happy with that. I called the RAC and gave them my location (Asda carpark in Strabane!) and said the battery has failed - it’s not flat, it’s failed, so it needs to be replaced. They get on it…. …….and after waiting 1.5h, an agent turns up with his tow truck and a starting pack. He tests the battery and says it’s knackered, but as an agent he can’t replace parts, only fix or tow! I call the RAC and they’ve now closed the case down, so I have to start once more, explain the situation yet again and this time, they say they’ll get an RAC patrol to attend. Text says they’ll be there in an hour - yay! The I get a call 20 mins later and I’m told the nearest patrol is 25 miles away… but as it’s now 16.00, they’ve finished for the day…. this is a 24/7 service btw. So now it’s booked for tomorrow morning between 07.00 and 12.00 where I’m staying 15 miles in the South. But it might be the afternoon as it depends how many jobs he gets overnight. What a joke. All we’ll need next is for them not to code the battery to the car… that’ll be fun! More tomorrow fellow Skuds… 🙄

I started the car this yesterday morning. Well, what I mean is, it was 0c here overnight and it only “just” started. Then a warning came up saying “Stop/start Disabled” and a symbol then came up on the warning light bar below the maxi dot, which I can’t find in the handbook so apparently doesn’t exist! So sadly it looks like the battery, which is the original form 2016, is finally on the way-out, so I can’t really complain. I put it on charge and have now left it for 24h so we’ll see if that helps. I’ve also got the Noco jump starter if needed. Fortunately, we have a replacement battery included with the RAC cover, so that’s one less thing to worry about in terms of cost, but as I’m in Ireland at present, I’ll probably have to go over the boarder to get them to come out.

Must be the battery. EDIT - SJ just beat me to it! 😂

How many kms have you driven since you bought it? Have you had a sustained drive for more than 30 mins at working temp > 100km/h? If not try that.

The OE P7s were cracking badly on the tread edge at 38k (and annoyingly, all 4 still had 3mm all over) so changed them for new Conti All Season. Only covered 4K but are much quieter which is great.

No, not yet. I’ll have to give it go. What’s best to use; silicon lube?

Being colour blind, I much prefer Night mode during the day, as I find is difficult to differentiate the route in day mode. Why couldn’t they make the route Bright Blue or Purple rather than Green, Yellow and Grey? (Errr… are those the right colours… I dunno!). 🙄

Mines just started the creaksqueak again. The ARB bushes were replaced under warranty but this, together with the suspension which has also now creaking, has returned. 🙄