numskull

^^^ What he said; a scan is the only way to get useful information on the issue/s.

Ferkin heck! 😳

Having changed the header tank to get rid of the Silikat bag, I decided to buy one of the VAG Silikat cartridge, which should be more reliable than the bag. It arrived yesterday and this is it. I’ve popped it against a spoon to give it some scale. Oh BTW, that’s a teaspoon! Yep, it’s somewhat smaller than I thought it would be. Anyway, I’ll see if it’ll fit into the tank somehow. Obviously It has to be at least partially immersed in the G13 to add whatever the silicate adds to the antifreeze product. I’ll report back….

Can I ask why? What symptoms points to failing plugs?

Complete seat out and base part or fully dismantled I’d’ve thought.

I did it in mine last week. I’d rather change the fluid every two years than have a wrecked heater matrix. Having said that, I’ve bought an Audi filter to shove it into the tank, which should solve the longevity issue…. As long as it fits. 😂

Welcome to the forum. If it’s started on fixed servicing, it should stay on fixed. I’m not even sure you can move to variable once it’s on fixed but I’ll wait to be corrected on that. Stick to CarPlay would be my advice. My accessories include a battery air compressor, because tyres deflate. The Aldi one I have is excellent. Incorrectly inflated tyres cause premature and uneven wear and can be dangerous. Tyre Pressure Gauge, a decent one. I’ve had this one for about 10 years. I tested it against a calibrated garage unit a few weeks ago and found it to be accurate. Spray bottle with filtered 0ppm water. Bird poo wipes. Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions Detailer. Three Microfibre towels.

Yeah, of course it is…. until it goes “ping”!

£1,100 would seem about right given the work. I think the replacement waterpump on the 280 was about that much.

Hilarious. And they wonder why more and more customers lose trust in the dealer network. I guess you need a new engine when a water pump fails too… 🙄

I’d still have it changed at 60k.

Whoops… that’ll teach me from being a SA! Soz about that. Do you have it on the highest setting? Yeah, this is weird all right, but I don’t understand why or, indeed, how a DSG would make engine acceleration “sluggish”.

Unfortunately, every Skoda, VW, Audi and Seat with the same rear ww unit, all have this feature and I’m sure that your Karoq, in time, will do the same.

Yep, the standard accelerator is laggy to say the least. I found it to be exactly the same when I got the 280. Get a Racechip XLR pedal box. You can return it if it doesn’t meet your requirements. Much cheaper than a remap I suspect.

I used to get 60 on a run in the MKII and I once got 71 on the MKI and averaged 58 over 98k miles. Raulsas, I definitely think the 1.4/1.5 is the engine you should aim to get.

Anecdotally, Android units seem to be more troublesome than iOS across the board.

I’d quite like to upgrade to a VC, but having “used” (that’s a laugh) a head unit with virtual buttons, they’re an absolute PITA. I also just can’t justify what, £1,500 for hardware - £700 of the VC and similar for the Columbus 2.5, plus fitting of course, so I’m guessing £2k all up? I can afford it, just can’t get my head around the cost-benefit. I’m happy with the satnav as the regular updates are great and the Canton system sounds amazing for an OE system. I’m also a bit anal when it come to keeping a car BS = bog standard, which was one of the reasons why I chose to go down the Racechip route as opposed to a remap. Just my opinion of course, as I’d never have the brass-neck to tell someone they’re idiots for splashing out that that amount to upgrade their car.

I agree with Colin; knackered battery on the stop/start problem. And the issues you had with the Christmas tree lights on the dash sound identical to the rear wheel sensor issue I had. Can I ask; was this a private or trade sale? You have redress if the latter.

Thanks - I’ve never used that function, but I’ll give its a try. 👍🏻

If I haven’t engaged reverse in the first instance, I do not get a “visualisation” on the screen from the front sensors, just the bleeping. So if I were to park front in on our drive, as I approach the house, the sensors would bleep but that’s it. If I reverse in, the full visualisation appears, giving front, rear and side distance positioning. Just curious; what are those square blocks indicating that are shown on the pic you uploaded? EDIT and UPDATE Apologies. Ignore my first post. It seems I’ve just never noticed that the visualisation (as per your edited pic) does appear when the front sensors pick-up an obstruction.

There you go….

They’re truly ghastly. Our 280 has 19” anthracite Trinity, which I think were the standard L&K alloys in 2016.

Just interested. Can I ask the reason why?

Welcome to Briskoda cmw1965 and sorry for the lack of a response back in October. I’m pleased you found a good indy and ditched the main dealer network. I did the same in early ‘21 after being told by Lookers that it needed a new cambelt; best bit of advice they ever gave me as I never looked back. 👍🏻

Yet another post from me to say the 280 (now 320 or there abouts) is the best car I’ve owned or driven as a company car and that includes vehicles like Escort and Sierra Cosworth 2 and 4x4, Scorpio Cosworth, Fiat Turbo Coupe, Nissan 200SX. Oh, and a few Ford Luton’s and Transits! So, I won’t be selling it. Next big job with be getting it rustproofed in the Summer so I need to investigate and select the best products and supplier.