numskull

😁👍🏻 Happened to me today. I had to remove the rear bumper from SWMBO Focus today, as we’re getting water ingress again through the welding seams. Undid the four plastic expanding rivets and the ones in the wheel arch and it refused to move. So NOW I decide to look at the Haynes manual and find there are two bolts behind the wheel arch liner! 🙄 Finally got it off, removed the old sealing compound and replaced it with guttering sealant this time. Hopefully that’ll last a bit longer.

The first time I drove a car with EPB, a rental Seat, I admit, I had no idea WTF I was doing. I kept pulling the switch up at lights, pushing it down when I pulled away. I had no idea it automatically went on and off. I also couldn’t for the life of me workout how the cruise worked, so I downloaded the manual and that also put me straight on the brakiness.

Then they’re idiots. You need to use an ignition controlled fuse. I piggybacked on the rear wash/wipe.

I only run the 280 on Momentum. I’ll check it when I’m home tomorrow and let you know, Colin. The chemical isn’t imported by my mate anymore, so you’d have to contact the manufacturer to find out if it’s still imported. They also make diesel fuel line and DPF cleaner too.

You’re not alone. My SiL has just bought a 22 Audi RS5 Sportback. He couldn’t find the windscreen washer bottle, nor the expansion tank. Of course he didn’t RTFM…

It’s the new Skoda design theme.

Why do you manually release the EPB? I don’t touch the brake system; it releases when it goes into D and I drive off and fully activates the brake when it goes back into P.

Is it this one? Incidentally, I use fuel system cleaners occasionally in both the 280 and the Focus. I use a product produced by a German government-approved manufacturer which was imported by my best mate, which was sold to independents and also Halfords and a couple of other bigger players. It’s amazing stuff. The Focus travels just 3 miles a day and the MPG on the Focus goes from 20.5 to 24 which is amazing. This improvement generally lasts 4-6 months. I use it in the 280 annually, as my commute is the same as my wife but, of course, the engine is far more efficient.

It won’t be out a “few” splines I can assure you. Remove the arm and reposition it one spline and that’ll cure the issue.

I have Auxito indicators and reversing LED’s and haven’t had any issues with them either.

More “defined” and rich”? The bass you mean? Because that’s what beautifully rich and defined music needs… more bass, by the addition of an enormous sub, capable of being effective in a room 10x the size of the Superb cabin? Ahhhh, right. I knew I was missing something…. 🙄

If you think the Cantom system is “OK”, you should heard the OEM systems in a well equipped car 25 years ago; trust me, there’s no comparison. It’s a car, so it’s not designed for the production of any form of HiFi. Your head is in the wrong place to get any form of stereo or realistic surround sound. DSP programmes (another pointless gimmick) sound weird for the same reason. It seems to me that the main preoccupation with customisation of sound systems in cars is to produce 100’s or even of ‘000’s of watts of noise and massive bass. To me it’s about the quality of the sound, not the volume.

Have you tried the previous coding you did on the Golf?

Best OEM sound I’ve had in any car, but what’s the point you’re making?

OK, so if I’m reading this this right, there is supposed to be a setting which can (or should already be) enabled to stop axle tramp which using launch control? Well, the first bit of advice would be to use launch control a few times or better still, not at all, because it prematurely wears the clutch packs. Yes, I have used launch control once on a private road and got no judder or tramping at all, just extremely fast acceleration with no wheel spin. So I don’t get why you’re suffering axle tramp, as that is usually associated with FWD vehicles, not 4x4’s. Here’s the code for the comfort indicators. Module: 09 (Central Electronics) Security Access → Code: 31347 Module: 09 (Central Electronics) Adaptation → Channel: Turn signal control-Komfortblinken New value: active Module: 09 (Central Electronics) Adaptation → Channel: Turn signal control-Komfortblinken Blinkzyklen New value: from 2 to 5 Save the changes, exit VCDS and do a factory reset of the lights in the infotainment unit.

Never heard of this, so a bit more enlightenment on what this is/does would be great?

Says it all really. Happy Christmas to everyone. 👍🏻🎄

Oh and Easy Entry moves the drivers seat back when you enter the car and moves it forward when you start it. I don’t think you can disable KESSY as I think it’s integrated with the start system, so the car wouldn’t start.

I went down the hardwire route using a Nextbase hardwire kit as I didn’t want a wire dangling from the camera. It was actually pretty easy to install. This might help… …and this. Ignore the fact it’s an estate as the install is the same as the hatch.

Didn’t know the EA888 had VVT.

Make sure you’re no more than 2 meters from the rear of the car. Press and hold the tailgate button on the remote and release it when it begins to close.

Use it all the time; works brilliantly.

I reckon you need to listen to the people who know through experience and training that’s booloks. I just don’t get why you’d disbelieve them?

Weird. Can you identify where around the engine the noise is emanating?

My insurance literally doubled in July. Went from £267 to £590. Managed to get it to £390 through Chris Knott, a Briskoda sponsor. It’s the underwriting insurance cartel which has got together and decided to rack-up the costs. Blatant profiteering.